The first watch we are previewing for the September 2013 Only Watch event is this Patek Philippe Ref 5004T. The Patek Philippe Ref 5004 is a split-seconds chronograph + perpetual calendar; it was produced for about six years, until being replaced by the Patek Ref 5204 in 2011. The piece you see here is the first and likely only time that the Patek Ref 5004 will be created in a titanium case. More broadly, however, is that this is the fourth Patek Philippe EVER to be cased in titanium, according to my research. I revealed two of them here on Perpetuelle a couple years ago — the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref5180T and the Calatrava Ref 6000T (see Two Titanium Patek Philippe’s You Didn’t Know Existed); and my knowledgeable friends at Monochrome also pointed out that the Patek Nautilus, Ref 5712T, was also cased in titanium — made for Only Watch 2007, fittingly.
Patek trivia aside, let’s take a closer look at this 5004T.
Aside from the chrono and perpetual calendar displays, the dial on the watch is quite interesting — made of solid gold, it is engraved to look like carbon-fiber. Similarly is the strap, actually made of calf skin, it is embossd to resemble carbon fiber. It is quite interesting to see Patek “imitate” carbon fiber rather than use the actual material itself. On the one hand I can see carbon fiber being too “radical” a material for the staid brand to use in a watch, but on the other hand to imitate the look seems a bit tacky. No matter – this will undoubtedly be one of the highest grossing pieces at the Only Watch 2013 auction.
Patek Philippe Ref 5004T Split-Seconds Chrono Perpetual Calendar
36.7mm titanium case, solid gold dial engraved with “carbon fiber” style guilloche”, carbon-fiber pattern embossed calf skin strap with titanium pin buckle
The watch is powered by the Patek Caliber CHR 27-70 Q which is based on the Lemania 2310 caliber. The CHR 27-70 was introduced by Patek in 1986, and the manually wound caliber CH 27-70 based on a Nouvelle Lémania movement blank produced exclusively for Patek Philippe and completely reworked in the manufacture quickly became highly sought after by Patek connoisseurs.