💦 Buying Time: Five to Dive – Watches from IWC, Breitling & More 💦

IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Cousteau IW3767-06 - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Happy Friday and it is time — Buying Time — for a look at some great pre-owned watches on offer.  Today’s theme is dive watches, which I would surmise is the largest, most talked about, most popular “category” of watches out there.   And for good reason — most of us just can’t resist a good looking watch that we can wear with us in the pool or the ocean, SCUBA diving or desk diving.  Dive watches could be one of the most debated categories as well — just ask any ten aficionados what defines a dive watch (or Google it) and see the range of answers you get.  Of course there are standards like the ISO 6425 (which is by no means compulsory) and then there are specs:  helium escape valve, luminosity, underwater legibility, bezel design, depth/water resistance rating, strap style, and more.

Which of these details matters to you, well that’s for you to decide.  I’m certainly not here today to get into the minutiae and history of dive watches (boooring) — I just want to share with you some awesome, water-loving watches that are looking for a good home.  Let’s jump on in and check out this week’s lineup of pre-owned dive watches.

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Debut: Cartier Clé Mysterious Hours

Cartier Cle De Cartier Mysterious Hour duo - Perpetuelle

Debuting in 2015, the Clé (“key”) is the newest collection from Cartier.  Though first models were simple, time-only pieces, Cartier has stepped up the collection with this new model, the Mysterious Hour.  The watch combines Cartier’s new Clé case design with its in-house caliber 9981 MC which was has been around since 2013 when it debuted in the “Rotonde de Cartier Mysertious Hours” watch, i.e. a very similar watch except in the round/Rotonde style Cartier case. The Clé, or “key”, style crown is intended to mimic the feeling of winding a traditional clock winding key.

As its name suggests, this is a “mystery watch” which I could probably define as a small sub-genre within the high watchmaking world (several manufactures have done their own takes on the mystery dial, though the genre seems to me to be particularly suited to Cartier, for reasons hard to put my finger on).  The hands appear to float in space, though in reality they are set upon transparent rotating discs.  The effect is simultaneously pleasing and intriguing.

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Debut: Two Panerai Luminor 1950 Titanio DLC Watches (PAM 617 & PAM 629)

Panerai Luminor 1950 Titanio DLC 47mm PAM 617 and PAM 629 - Perpetuelle

Panerai pulls the covers off of two special editions, of which only 300 pieces of each will be made.  Both in a 47mm, DLC-finished titanium Luminor 1950 case, one has a traditional sandwich dial and one a “California” dial (aka half Romans and half Arabic numerals).  Let’s take a look at the new Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC models. Oh, and don’t miss my “Did You Know” segment at the bottom in which we explore the subtleties of the Luminor and Luminor 1950 case styles.

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A Look at the New Longines Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph

Longines Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph white dial - Perpetuelle

When it comes to Longines, the brand’s Heritage Collection is what really gets me excited these days.  The collection is filled with some really great modern day reincarnations of pieces out of Longines’ past.  Over the last few years I’ve introduced you to many of these pieces (including a hands-on review of the A-7 Avigation a few years back, just to name one).  And again today I am happy to see Longines pull from its watchmaking history to produce another vintage-inspired piece, the Longines Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph.

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