As I mentioned in my opening preview of the 2012 Vacheron Constantin collection, 2012 is the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first tonneau-shaped watch (1912), and to mark the occasionVacheron Constantin has decided to present the Malte 100^th Anniversary Edition model, a hand-wound watch issued in a 100-piece limited series in a platinum case.  This piece of course is molded in the redesigned Malte tonneau case, with a more curved middle section than the previous model — the side and front-angle photos below give a really good sense of the more dramatic shape of the new Malte case.

Vacheron Constantin Malte 100th Anniversary Edition

38mm x 48.24mm platinum case (12.7 thick), hand wound VC manufacture calibre 4400 (65 hrs power reserve), Geneva Seal, black alligator strap

What a great start to SIHH Geneva 2012 it has been!  Let’s move on to some of Vacheron Constantin’s pieces now, shall we.  For me, the most interesting pieces for Vacheron in 2012 are in the Malta collection.  2012 is the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first tonneau-shaped watch (1912), and to mark the occasion Vacheron Constantin has revisited the tonneau shape of its Malte collection in a fairly big way.  That is, VC has completely redesigned the shape of the Malte tonneau case and also developed a new tonneau-shaped movement to match, the Caliber 2795.  The new case is a bit sharper and more angular in its form — the old case has very smooth arcing sides whereas the new case has the very, very faint resemblance of a V-shape to it.  The new shape paves the way for the “new” Malte collection in the years ahead.

For 2012 four new models are presented, three of them approved in accordance with the new Hallmark of Geneva criteria.  There is a tourbillon, a small seconds, a lady’s model, and a Malte 100th Anniversary edition.  The first piece I am showing here is the Malte Tourbillon, featuring Vacheron’s new mechanical hand-wound Tourbillon movement, the Calibre 2795.  I will be posting the other models soon, so stay tuned in.

Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon

38mm x 48.2mm pink gold case, manual wind mechanical VC Caliber 2795, alligator strap

Caliber 2795

Here’s a look at the SIHH pre-release from Vacheron Constantin, the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 Day Tourbillon.  Don’t be fooled into taking this piece for a classical tourbillon — in fact this piece boasts a 14-day power reserve, powered the four barreled VC Calibre 2260 (we’re talking 2.2 meters of barrel spring, people!).  As well, this is the first Vacheron Constantin timepiece to be approved according to the new Geneva Seal criteria (see “Did You Know?” below).

Perpetuelle SIHH 2012 Previews >>> Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Watch, Panerai PAM 422, Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second, Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Automatic, Cartier Cadran Lové Tourbillon,

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 Day Tourbillon

42mm pink gold case (12.2mm thick), mechanical hand-wound VC Calibre 2260 (336 hours/14-day power reserve, 4 barrels), Geneva Seal, alligator strap with pink gold clasp, transparent back fitted with a sapphire crystal

Reference 89000/000R-9655

In order to provide a full 14-day power reserve, the new Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2260 is equipped with four barrels mounted in coupled pairs. They are all connected and all unwind simultaneously, but naturally four times slower than a single barrel. The four barrel-springs amount to a total length of around 2.20 metres — now that’s a lot of spring!  Comprising 231 parts and beating at a frequency of 18,800 vibrations/hour.

The architecture of this new Calibre 2260 features two large bridges (instead of the three appearing on the previous Vacheron Constantin tourbillons). The large surfaces thus available serve to highlight the finishes lavished on this movement, including the Côtes de Genève that are thus given full scope for expression. Having two extra bridges serves to enhance the precision in terms of assembly, but represents an additional difficulty for the watchmaker who thus has less easy access to the movement. The tourbillon carriage is inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese Cross and provides a splendid showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of interior angles, all naturally hand-bevelled. The rounding off of the tourbillon bar alone takes over 11 hours of manual craftsmanship to achieve an optimal effect.

A slender bezel, a case middle with a fluted base, a screw-down case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal, facetted hour-markers (double at 12 o’clock), 5N pink gold dauphine hands and an historically inspired opaline silver-toned dial adorned with a variety of finishes make this an exquisite collectors piece.

Live pics via The Hour Lounge

Did You Know?

New Geneva Seal Criteria

As of 2012, the certification no longer concerns the movement alone, but instead the watch as a whole. Component production as well as verification of the entire set of operations leading to the finished watch are now the object of a systematic and more demanding monitoring procedure conducted by independent State-sworn agents. Once a movement has been officially approved in accordance with the Hallmark of Geneva requirements, periodic unannounced inspections will be made in the company in order to verify the compliance of production processes. The inspections will in particular serve to check that the assembly, adjustment and casing-up are indeed performed in Geneva, as well as to evaluate the quality of the components produced and the assembled movements.

Rather than just the movement, the entire watch is now stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva. The exterior of the timepiece is thus taken into account, and in particular the elements connecting the movement to the case, meaning the casing-up rings, the clamps and braces and the dog screws. All components must also comply with the production processes and finishes laid down by the Hallmark of Geneva.

The testing of the completed watch is now an integral part of the requirements of the quality label. This is true of the water resistance, of which the company’s internal controls are duly cross-checked by the Hallmark of Geneva authorities. The power reserve announced for a given movement is also periodically tested. Finally, the precision of the watch as proven by a wear simulation test becomes an essential element in awarding the label. The Hallmark of Geneva conducts precision measurements for a full seven days to ensure that the variation in rate does not exceed one minute per week.

Just 2 days and 2 weeks away, I am eagerly awaiting the ONLY Watch 2011 event.  As readers know I have previewed the majority of the one-of-a-kind pieces to be offered for auction in Geneva — you can see them all here — but there are still more to be seen!  Today we look at the Vacheron Constantin “Dove” watch.  Inspired by famous graphic artist M.C. Escher, Vacheron Constantin’s “piece unique” for the ONLY Watch 2011 auction is a real beauty.  The watch’s gold, enamelled and diamond-set dial depicts the flight of red and white doves, but of course it is not so simple.  The dial adopts concepts such as geometry, symbolism and motion, subtly nesting and layering them in order to generate a beautiful dial that is sure to please anyone who might want to spend countless hours pondering the meaning of it all — a perfect homage to Escher!

Vacheron Constantin “Dove” for ONLY WATCH 2011

Unique Piece

40mm white gold case, automatic mechanical movement (Vacheron Caliber 2460 SC)

This timepiece is inspired by a drawing by M.C. Escher – a Dutch engraver and graphic artist (1898-1972) whose work was based on a subtle play on architecture, perspective and space.  The red and white doves – symbols of hope and love – are exquisitely interlocking like jigsaw puzzle parts, creating a truly stunning decorative motif.

Within the case beats high-precision mechanical self-winding Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Hail to the Red, White and Blue…USA! USA!

This vivid looking watch is a “boutique exclusive” from Swiss watch heavyweight Vacheron Constantin — the watch was created to celebrate the opening of Vacheron’s first boutique in the United States, located in New York.   Loyal readers of this blog may recall that this is not the first Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph created exclusively for a certain geography or boutique – in fact I’ve profiled many of these special Overseas Chronograph’s in the past year:

• Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph for Turkey (June 2010)
• Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph for Greece (June 2010)
• Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph for Italy-Pisa Orologeri (September 2010)

Observe that, of all the special editions mentioned above, the “New York” edition is the only to feature a perpetual calendar — in fact this is Vacheron Constantin’s first “high complication” ever to be included in a steel Overseas case.   As for the look of the watch, I like the color choice, however I don’t particularly care for the date subdial design that Vacheron uses on this watch (as well as others) — the “31″ and the “1″ are a squished together in a manner that I’ve never liked, and the “9″ is easily confused for a “6″.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar

Limited edition of 20 individually numbered pieces- Price:  $57,900 per

42mm stainless steel case, water-resistant to 150 meters, anti-magnetic soft iron cage within the case

Each watch includes two straps: one in blue alligator leather with a red lining and the other in chestnut brown calfskin

The caseback of this watch depicts the “standard” sea vessel that appears on almost all the Overseas watches – the Amerigo Vespucci.  In this case, you can also see the “N°X/20” and “Madison and 64^th” engravings:

Oh, by the way — this watch is one of three new special editions that Vacheron Constantin announced to commemorate its new New York boutique — You can see the other two, as well as a few good live shots of all three, over at friend-of-the-house Hodinkee.

Bespoke…Tour de force…

Perpetuelle readers new and old — behold, the “Vladimir”.  Like the awesomely bespoke Vacheron Constantin Philosophia watch that I gave you a special first look/sneak preview of late last year, the Vladimir comes to us from Atelier Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin’s custom-built watchmaking workshop.

For those of you unfamiliar with Atelier Cabinotiers, a quote from my September 2010 Philosophia review should do the trick:

“Eventually, you reach a point when you want what others don’t have,” says Dominique Bernaz, director of Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers.

Indeed.  Vacheron’s Atelier Cabinotiers is the manufacture’s special-order division established in 2006 to serve its most exclusive clients (more on Atelier Cabinotiers here).  For the right price, the watch of your dreams can be conceived, named, constructed and delivered.  So here we are today, looking at the newly unveiled “Vladimir”.  Like the Philosophia, the name “Vladimir” was chosen by its owner, and this bespoke watch is a real tour de force, representing the precise desires of its owner.  This watch is so incredible it’s hard to know where to begin!  Let’s take a closer look, shall we?

Vacheron Constantin Atleiers Cabinotiers Vladimir Watch

Unique Piece

47mm pink gold case (hand engraved sides) white gold dial (hand-guilloched), manual winding Vacheron Caliber 2750 (58 hour power reserve)

hours, minutes, second (on tourbillon), minute repeater, perpetual calendar, power reserve, second time zone, moon phase indication, striking-mechanism torque, perpetual time equation, sunrise, sunset, celestial map, week indication

The Vacheron Constantin Vladimir supersedes the complexity of the Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile which was launched in 2005 by VC as “the most complicated wristwatch in the world”.   The Vladimir boasts a whopping 17 complications (at VC’s count) and 891 components:

To begin with the supreme example, the very refined 60-second tourbillon mechanism stands out at 6 o’clock, while next to it at 3 o’clock appears the moon phase on a blue sky with a precision moon in gold, smiling or serious depending on the phase and hand-engraved by Atelier Cabinotiers craftsmen. To its right, a smaller counter with a small blued hand indicates the striking mechanism torque, i.e., whether the minute repeater mechanism is engaged. In addition to the hour and minute hands – one-of-a-kind pieces made especially for this watch –that travel around the slightly off-centre minute markers, the front side of the main dial provides a second time zone with day/night indicator at 11 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is located in the 9 o’clock sector, also enhanced by a 52-week indicator.

As another sign of the personalisation evident throughout the entire creative process, the guilloché pattern on the dial was also chosen by the collector of this exceptional timepiece.

The back is no less admirable than the front, having a wealth of information that is pleasantly arranged, exciting, subtle and surprising, according to Vacheron:

On the upper portion, the perpetual calendar dials are arranged in a triangle, displaying the days of the week, month and date from left to right. A small window at 1 o’clock shows the leap-year cycle. In the centre of the dial, a blued hand sweeps over a small sector devoted to the equation of time, the variable difference observable between true (solar) time and the time marked by clocks, which for convenience is divided into equal intervals. Two other pieces of astronomical information are conveyed by hands traversing two sectors at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock: the time of sunrise and sunset. The list of functions ends in a blaze of glory with a precision sky chart of the northern hemisphere, as one rarely sees it.

the back side of the Vacheron Constantin Vladimir watch

Of course, for a bespoke timepiece of this magnitude, even the side of the case is highly customized — the note the relief engraving on the sides of the pink gold case which depict the Chinese Zodiac, a task which (according to VC) took six months to finish.  Vacheron tells us:

The motifs and the bas-relief technique (which is extremely rare in watchmaking) used here were both done by request of the owner. Before getting to the heart of the matter with regard to the subject and materials, the designers showed the purchaser many sketches. The decision was then made to depict the signs of the zodiac on both sides of the case, which itself is made of 18-carat pink gold. In the end, the twelve figures – from the dragon through the rabbit and the rooster to the snake – were made to stand out slightly from the main body of 18-carat pink gold. It was a colossal task for the engravers – the twelve figures alone took more than six months – and required that a very special case first had to be made with extra-thick sides, from which the superfluous material was removed, carving roughly at first and then in very fine detail.

the sides of the Vacheron Constantin Vladimir watch

My very special thanks goes out to Vacheron Constantin and its Ateliers Cabinotiers for this very special look at this “once in a lifetime” watch.

Boutique Beauty…

Well, SIHH 2011 is over (what a week it was!) but the surprises keep coming with this very special “boutique only” perpetual calendar  from Vacheron Constantin.  Actually our friends at Vacheron Constantin showed this piece at SIHH, but this is the first that it has been shared with the broader world.  And this is not just any ‘ole perpetual calendar, but one with a retrograde date function.  Also note that there is a color changing dot at 3 o’clock to indicate the leap year cycle (partially obscured on the photo below).  Click through for more looks in The Hour Lounge (very nicely redesigned Hour Lounge, I might add!).  All pics courtesy of The Hour Lounge.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

Geneva Boutique Exclusive of 25 Pieces

40mm rose gold case, Vacheron Caliber 1126 QPR

and a nice view on the caseback…engraving of the Vacheron Constantin Geneva Boutique…

37 time zones…

The 2011 Vacheron Constantin collection is now up and available for your browsing enjoyment, and I wanted to highlight a couple of my favorites now.  First is this impressive new “World Timer”, with a movement so sophisticated that it is capable of indicating not only the full time zones, but also the partial ones (such as those offset from Universal Coordinated Time (UCT) by a half – or quarter-hour) — 37 time zones it total (if you knew this #, I am impressed!).   Not surprisingly, this exclusive mechanism is patented by Vacheron Constantin.  The display consists of three dials: a sapphire dial with a unique day/night shading; a metal dial with a “Lambert projector” type map; and a metal chapter ring.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony World Timer (Reference 86060)

42.5mm pink gold case, automatic mechanical Calibre 2460 WT Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva, display back, comes on a brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scaled alligator leather strap with pink gold clasp

Vacheron Constantin‘s contemporary Quai de l’Ile collection (first launched in 2008) will get an upgrade in 2011 with this new and nice looking Retrograde Annual Calendar model. Like alll in the Quai de l’Ile collection, this model is customizable in up to 700 potential variations (see video below for more details).  Overall, the watch looks good overall and the quality will be impeccable as one would expect from Vacheron.  The day function on the right-side of the dial does seem a bit ‘crowded’, though.  Price will probably be somewhere near $40,000, depending upon customization options chosen.  Available sometime in 2011!

Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile Annual Calendar

43mm pink or white gold case, annual calendar (requires adjustment just 1x per year to account for February), Vacheron Calibre 2460 QRA (new movement), delivered with two straps: one in black or brown alligator leather, and the other in black or brown rubber (with matching gold folding clasp)

Live shot, courtesy of the Hour Lounge

Video Overview of the Quai de l’Ile Collection

My only other *minor* complaint about this watch is its hard-to-pronounce name, at least for a non-French speaking American such as myself! How about you…can you say “Quai de l’Ile” with confidence?!

Vacheron’s European “Special Edition” Tour Continues…

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph watch is a personal favorite of mine, particularly when it is a nice looking special edition such as this one — the “Pisa” edition, produced for Milan, Italy-based watch retailer Pisa Orologeria.  Lately, Vacheron Constantin has announced several special edition Overseas Chronos for ceratin European markets, specifically Turkey and Greece. And now it adds Italy to the list.  Actually this is a boutique-specific model, but close enough for me to say it is for Italy in general.  This particular watch and its black/steel color theme is by far my favorite version of the three.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph “Pisa” Special Edition

42mm stainless steel case with either rubber or croc strap.  The dial is matte black with luminous indices.  Limited Edition of 20 pieces.  Price is 14,000 EUR.

Look closely and you will see the special dial markings…can you see them? [answer below]

“P …. I …. S …. A”

Photos Credit:  The Hour Lounge.