The new, limited edition Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar Manufacture sports a 43mm platinum case with blue “wave” dial and the automatic mechanical UN-32 caliber, UN’s in-house perpetual calendar movement. Ulysse Nardin uses its manufacture caliber UN-32 (which debuted in 2014) extensively across a wide variety of perpetual calendar models — the manufacture also refers to it as “the most consumer friendly perpetual calendar ever produced.” This is in a strong argument, as perpetual calendars are notorious for their complexity to set and adjust; the UN-32 caliber can be easily adjusted in either direction through the crown — a simple action, but one which is very complex to execute. Which is why Ulysse Nardin is well respected for its perpetual calendar watches.
This latest addition to Ulysse Nardin’s Classico collection: the Amerigo Vespucci. Ulysse Nardin is one of the very few brands I can think of that actually have what could be called a “cloissoné collection.” In fact Ulysse Nardin’s cloissoné collection of just ships includes the Pride of Baltimore, the HMS Caesar, and the Santa Maria. Cloissoné of course a reference to the technique used to create the enamel dial. Ulysse Nardin thrives in enameling and is one of the few watchmaking houses with in-house capabilities (i.e. very skilled enamel artisans).
Enamel dial-making is an art that has increasingly fascinated me, and I will have much more to tell you on the topic of enameling very soon in a special report I am working on. Until then, enjoy a look at these fine cloissone dial Classico “Amerigo Vespucci” by Ulysse Nardin.
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What you see here is perhaps the most important watchmaking innovation revealed this year. Seriously. And I’m about to tell you why, with plenty of photo and videos to back me up. With an official — though somewhat quiet — debut at Baselworld 2014, Ulysse Nardin’s silicon flying anchor escapement is one of those innovations which could very well change how certain things are done at high-end, cutting-edge horological landscape over the coming years and decades. Though the exact long-term influence will only be determined over time, this kinda reminds me of that time, about 15 years ago, when Ulysse Nardin rolled out a little ‘ole watch called The Freak. The Freak of course showcased — for the first time — a silicon escapement (among other niceties). This seminal launch in 2001 also ushered in the era of silicon components and high-tech materials innovation, which continues apace yet today.
Yea, Rolex’s Syloxi Hairspring is a pretty big deal (quietly announced at Baselworld this year, too), and yes I recently went “In-Depth” on that too, you know– but it was certainly not the first time a silicon hairspring has been used in watchmaking. Come to think of it, that honor also belongs to Ulysse Nardin. But I digress.
From Perpetuelle’s point of view, Ulysse Nardin’s flying silicon anchor escapement carries the gravitas more along the lines of Girard-Perregaux’s revolutionary constant escapement which debuted in 2013. In fact the two share a common principle in that they rely upon the elasticity of precision engineered silicon components. Though still in prototype phase, Ulysse Nardin’s flying anchor escapement has been under development for seven years, and I predict that in due course this new innovation will really start to make waves in how things are done in the high-end watchmaking segment. Follow along as Perpetuelle goes in-depth on this new innovation from Ulysse Nardin.
Kering announced today it will purchase haute horlogerie watchmaker Ulysse Nardin. Kering is a luxury conglomerate, with brands such as Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and watch brands Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard. This deal will open up Kering’s vast distribution network to Ulysse Nardin. On the flipside, Ulysse Nardin brings its significant technical expertise into the Kering stable.
Founded by Mr Ulysse Nardin in 1846 with its roots in the nautical world, the eponymous watchmaking house was taken over and re-launched in 1983 by Rolf W. Schnyder who transformed it into a highly profitable business in a healthy financial position. The company benefits from a very strong brand identity based on its historical expertise in marine chronometers and ultra-complication watches. Ulysse Nardin has long been one of the most innovative independent watchmakers. The brand was a pioneer in the use of cutting edge technologies and state-of-the-art materials like silicium, which today ensures that it has the in-house expertise, particularly in regulating systems, to produce its own components. Its coherent range of watches positioned in price segments that are growing and its efficient distribution network are also major assets. – See more at: http://www.kering.com/en/node/8530#sthash.ehdOHArM.dpuf