Ulysse Nardin has released several new Marine Chronometer models for 2012. The particular model you see here is a limited edition piece with a rose gold case and enamel dial. I have included a lot of photos depicting the making of the enamel dials, as well as a closer look at some of Ulysse Nardin’s patened silicon component technology. The watch is powered by Ulysse Nardin’s UN-118 caliber, first introduced in 2011 and featuring several of UN’s silicon based innovations such as the DiamonSil (silicon treated with a thin layer of diamond coating that not only eliminates the need for lubrication, but also significantly increases the part’s durability) and silicon hairspring — see Video below. As well, the Marine Chronmeter case is slightly expanded to 45mm and has a new rubber-covered crown design. The enamel dial is beautifully handcrafted by Donzé Cadrans, a world-recognized enamel-dial specialist that is owned by Ulysse Nardin. As I say this is the limited edition piece, but I have included photos of the other models below as well.
Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture
Ref. 1186-122 , Limited Edition to 350 pieces
45mm rose gold case with enamel dialh, automatic mechanical UN manufacture caliber 118 (DIAMonSIL escapement, silicum hairspring, COSC), date window, small seconds and power reserve subdials
a closeup of the finished Grand Feu enamel dial:
enamel dials ready to be fired…
firing…
fired and ready for imprint…
imprinting…
Rubberized Crown:
Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-118
DIAMonSIL Escapement Parts (Pallet and Wheel)
Rendered image of an escapement, silicon hairspring
Ulysse Nardin DIAMonSIL video:
Other options:
Ref. 1185-122 titanium with gold bezel
Ref. 1183-122 titanium, stainless steel
Baselworld 2012: Ulysee Nardin presents a high tech perpetual calendar (adjustable with a single crown) with a dual time function and the legendary in-house movement.
Ulysse Nardin El Toro Perpetual Calendar
43mm rose gold case with blue ceramic dial, automatic mechanical manufacture movement (UN-32; COSC), rubber strap with titanium/ceramic deployant clasp or leather strap with folding buckle (both picture)
- The only perpetual calendar that adjusts forward and backward in seconds over the quick corrector position of a single crown, even in the year 2100.
- The hour hand is adjusted instantly to a new local time with pushers (+) or (-) without taking the watch off the wrist or interfering with its time keeping.
- The arrow keeps track of one’s home or reference time.
- The oversized date, the day, the month and the year change instantly forward or backward when the hour hand is moved to a new local time across the dateline with pushers (+) or (-).
- The 22 ct gold rotor ensures that the watch is automatically wound with a power reserve of 45 hours.
- The bezel and pushers are made in ceramic. The skeletonized hands permit easy reading of all calendar functions and the sapphire case-back allows to observe the mechanics of time.
Baselworld 2012: Baselworld starts tomorrow but I’ve got a number of previews I’ll get up for you today. Here’s one from Ulysse Nardin, the Blue Sea. If you are new to the name, Ulysse Nardin is a high end Swiss manufacture known for its marine/dive watches, among other things. The Blue Sea watch is immediately distinguished by its color tone — the case has been specially treated with a sophisticated vulcanization process giving it a blue rubber coating with a remarkable appearance (though I’ve always wonder how the coating fares over time). As well, the non-moving metal parts of the movement have been treated with a stainless blue titanium based alloy. The hour markers and hour and minute hands are covered with blue luminescent material for improved readability. There is a power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock (could have done without this, IMHO) and a small seconds and large date at 6 o’clock. Fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel and screwed crown, its individually-numbered case is water-resistant to 200 metres. The wave pattern seen on the dial and strap are commonly seen on the brand’s dive watches.
Ulysee Nardin Blue Sea Dive Watch
limited edition 999 pieces
45.8mm rubber-coated steel case coated, automatic mechanical movement, rubber strap with ceramic clasp and inserts
Getting back to my ONLY Watch 2011 previews (see all my watch previews here), today we look at the Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo “Only Watch 2011″ edition. This watch is another evolution of the iconic “Freak” that was first introduced by Ulysse Nardin in 2001. The originally Freak was revolutionary at the time in that it possessed no true dial, crown or hands, and was the first timepiece to successfully present escapement wheels constructed of silicium. The Freak Diavolo “Only Watch” pays tribute to — and advances upon — the original Freak’s pioneering spirit. Silicum is used throughout most of the escapement, and the watch also features a flying tourbillon that indicates the seconds, among other technical advancements. Note also the lack of a crown — the Freak Diavolo is wound by turning the lower bezel, and the time is adjusted by turning the upper bezel.
Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo for ONLY WATCH 2011
Unique Piece
44.5mm stainless steel case, 60-second tourbillon
The two specially conceived ball bearing systems enable the “flying” function of the minute movement and of the seconds-indicator tourbillon without the need for a supporting bridge.
“Only Watch” is a biennial charity auction of one-of-a-kind watches created by many of the most renowned watch brands in Switzerland. This exceptional event is held every two years in Monaco during the Monaco Yacht Show and is under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II. All the proceeds from Only Watch go to support Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research which is why many of these watches go extraordinarily high prices.
Starting today Perpetuelle will begin its coverage of Only Watch 2011. Stay tuned in because over the next few months, you will get to see awesome “piece unique” watches from each of the participating brands for the 2011 event:
Click through to see our in-depth preview of each watch:
- Harry Winston Midnight GMT Tourbillon
- Patek Philippe Ref 3939A Minute Repeater
- Urwerk UR-103 “Phoenix”
- Romain Jerome “Rock the Rock”
- Hublot Oceanographic 4000m dive watch
- MB&F HM-4 “Flying Panda”
- TAG Heuer “Monaco Mikrograph”
- Bell & Ross Pink Gold “Casino”
- Louis Vuitton Tambour Diver Chronograph
- Blancpain Villeret Grand Decoration
- Piaget Altiplano Skeleton
- Breguet Reveil Musical Watch
- Audemars Piguet Gstaad Classic
- Jaquet Droz Petit Heure Minute
- Van Cleef & Arpel “From the Earth to the Moon” Watch
- Girard-Perregaux ww.TC
- Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Titanium
- Vulcain Anniversary Heart Watch
- Chanel J12 Marine Watch
- Franck Muller “Totally Switzerland”
- Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo
- Vacheron Constantin “Dove” Watch (M.C. Escher-inspired)
- Zenith El Primero “Destro” watches
- Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsograph
- Ikepod Red Hourglass by Marc Newson
- Bovet Fleurier, Celsius, Chaumet, Chopard, De Bethune, Delacour, De Witt, Frédérique Constant, Hermès, Laurent Ferrier, Maurice Lacroix, Richard Mille
Only Watch 2011 will be held September 24, 2011 and managed by watch auction house Antiquorum. But you don’t have to wait this long — because part of the excitement leading up to the September 24, 2011 event is the release of each participating brand’s special edition watch.
ONLY WATCH 2009
If you are interested in looking back, I covered the Only Watch 2009 auction extensively including blogging about several of my favorites inlcluding: Piaget Emperador Coussin, MB&F Sage Vaughn HM-2, Bovet 3-in-1 Mona Lisa Watch, Tourneau Jump Hour, Louis Vuitton Tambour, Chanel J12 Joallerie with pink sapphire, and Blancpain 500 Fathoms. You can see all 34 “Only Watch 2009″ watches here on the Perpeuelle World Watch Forum. The Only Watch 2009 auction was hosted by Patrizzi & Co.
Perpetuelle Special Report…Bond on the Scene…
This past weekend Perpetuelle.com Sr. Forum Editor and “Man About Town” James Bond was on hand at esteemed Boston watch and jewelry store Shreve, Crump & Low for the company’s second annual Swiss Watch Fair. As with his prior special reports (see Moda Cucina, Rolex Red Daytona, Evening with Breguet) James does not disappoint us with his coverage of this wonderful event. In addition to trying his (shaky?) hand at the Omega watchmaker’s bench, Bond managed to wrist and photograph an Omega JFK Commemorative watch (Ref ref. 516.53.25.00.02.001), a Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea (Ref 166600), a Panerai Submersible (circa 1990′s), a Panerai PAM 270, and several more enviable wristwatches. Nice work James!
Click through to see Mr. Bond’s full report: Celebrating Swiss Watches at Shreve, Crump & Low.
Raindrops in the ocean…
…by which I mean that this new Ulysse Nardin (“yoo-liss nar-din”) does not make a big splash in my book. While the brand seeks to honor its nautical roots (marine chronometers have been a specialty since Ulysse Nardin opened his doors in Le Locle in 1846), this new addition to its Marine Collection – the Hammerhead Shark — seems gimmicky to a landlubber like myself. Also not evident to me are the “engravings of the mysterious hammerhead shark [which] decorate the case”. That’s all I’ve got to say about this one.
Ulysse Nardin Hammerhead Shark
45mm polished titanium+gold or steel case, water resistant = 200 meters, automatic movement with exhibition caseback, blue rubber strap with rose-gold or titanium elements
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Hammerhead motif on dial
Individually numbered limited edition of 350 pieces in 18-karat gold and titanium and 999 pieces in titanium and steel. No word on price.
Ulysse Nardin is again (2nd year) the official sponsor of the 2010 Monaco Yacht Show, one of UN Chief Rolf Schnyder’s favorite soirees. This year is the 20th anniversary of the superyacht show (there’s still time! September 22-25 at Port Hercules) and so UN decided to put out a limited edition “Monaco” watch based on its Marine collection.
Wide angle view of the 2009 Monaco Yacht Show
At first glance of the images I was a little disappointed in this watch. Yes, it is a limited and individually numbered series (better than I can seem to say for some of IWC’s LE’s these days), but is this just another color change? Well, kinda sorta but not exactly. UN did a bit more — the case is specially treated and coated in vulcanized rubber. Interesting, but definitely have to see this one in person to get a feel for it, though. I wonder how something like this would hold up to nicks/dings/bumps that might be encountered while out on the high seas. UN is not the first to rubberize their cases (Corum and others, if I recall, have similar watches). Even with this “special” case, the watch really isn’t much more exciting that other Ulysse Nardin Marine watches. What do you think of it?
Ulysse Nardin Monaco Marine Diver Limited Edition 2010
45.8mm rubberized case, rubber strap with black ceramic folding clasp
specially marked rotor (*yawn*)
UN Chief Rolf Schnyder hanging with HRH Prince Albert II
Rolf Turns 75…Releases Freak special…
Rolf Schnyder, the owner and president of Ulysse Nardin, turned 75 this year, and to commemorate his many achievements, he decided to introduce a new limited edition Freak Diavolo. It is a fitting commemorative piece because when it was first launched in 2001 “the Freak” shook up the watchmaking industry with its carrousel tourbillion without crown, hands, or dial and with a novel silicium escapement which required no lubrication. Not to mention that it was the first silicum escapement wheel in watchmaking — and silicum was more or less unheard of in watchmaking at the time.
Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo “Rolf 75″
Limited Edition of 75 pieces
Platinum case, “Rolf 75″ case embellishment, 60-second tourbillon, manual winding manufacture movement w/8+ day power reserve
Looking back on the decades, Rolf is right to give himself some credit for being a visionary:
“Almost 30 years ago, I bought Ulysse Nardin, a calculated risk as I believed there was a strong chance that unique, innovative mechanical watches could thrive, and it turns out I was right,”
“I fell in love with this grand old brand and our new innovative direction. To celebrate my 75th birthday, I’ve chosen the Freak because it was an historic breakthrough for Ulysse Nardin and for the watch industry in general, and it is by far our most important piece.”
What a watch, eh? Note the beautiful silicum escapement (blue colored thingy)
This is an amazing watch that builds upon the Freaks that have come before it. The tourbillon (developed entirely in-house) is impressive with its 8+ day power reserve and that a a yellow-half circle cage which serves to mark the seconds. Note also there is no crown on the watch — the watch is wound and the time is set by turning the split-level bezel. Price is unknown, but don’t think anything less than $100,000.
Did you know?
During one of his annual visits to St. Moritz, where Schnyder competes on the famous Cresta Skeleton Run he learned that Ulysse Nardin was for sale. That was in 1983 when Switzerland’s watch industry was in the doldrums due to the arrival of the quartz age. Ulysse Nardin was little more than a shell, a carcass with a famous name he describes it, and he set about transforming the brand with an emphasis on unique, complicated watchmaking with innovation at its core. Watches like the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, the Planetarium Copernicus, the Tellurium Johannes Kepler, the Minute Repeater Jaquemart San Marco, the Freak, the Genghis Khan and more followed, all having a common theme – innovation. Ulysse Nardin has been a leader in the adopting of new materials, new technologies and new ways of doing things since Schnyder relaunched the brand.
El Toro es En Fuego
Ulysse Nardin combined the Moonstruck case with the UN-32 COSC-certified perpetual calendar movement. 43mm red gold or platinum case. Ceramic pushpieces and bezel. An exclusive fast-action time-zone system, permanent indication of the original time, forward and backward adjustment of all the date indicators, and the synchronised adjustment of these elements using the hour hand. Rubber or leather strap with titanium/ceramic folding clasp, or crocodile with red gold or platinum folding clasp.
What a cool watch. Dare I wish that they had hidden the sub-dials for the date and days? I should be so petulant.
Ulysse Nardin “El Toro”
Limited to 500 pieces
| Rubber or leather with titanium/ceramic folding clasp, or crocodile with red gold or platinum folding clasp |
