Buying Time: Rectangular Watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Cartier, Piaget and JLC

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo - Govberg for Perpetuelle

In this week’s curation of pre-owned watches from the vaults of Govberg Jewelers, we will look at watches with cases that depart from the traditional round shape.  More specifically, the watches I have today have a rectangular shape, with the exception of one watch which is of the tonneau style (two straight/two curved sides, somewhat like a barrel).   I’ve found a couple classics (a Cartier Tank Francaise and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso) as well as some watches that are well out of production and/or a bit off the beaten path of the mainstream (a Roger Dubuis Quantième Perpétuel Much More, a Piaget Protocole, and a Franck Muller Conquistador).  Overall an eclectic lineup — but when all you’ve got in common is a case shape its bound to get interesting!  Follow along as I run down this week’s Buying Time lineup.

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Carter Tank Francaise Large (Ref W510002Q3)

Asking Price: $3,750

Cartier Tank Francaise Large W51002Q3 - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Ever since I sold one I owned over a decade ago, I’ve missed it.  This Tank Française has an automatic mechanical movement inside a 36.5mm x 28.15mm x 7.45mm steel case with a steel bracelet with triple folding steel buckle.  The Roman numerals, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, date aperture at 6 o’clock and 8-sided crown set with a synthetic spinel cabochon are classic Tank.  Though not known for the pedigree of its movement, when it comes to its design I put the Tank Francaise on my all time most iconic watches list.

Offered at $3,750, complete with box & papers and with time still remaining on the factory warranty, this Cartier Tank Francaise can be yours for a couple grand off of what you would pay new. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface 270.1.54

Asking Price: $8,500

26mm x 42mm yellow gold case

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Another watch that really needs no introduction, the Reverso was originally developed for polo playing British colonial army officers in 1931.  The idea behind the Reverso was that the case could swivel in order to flip/reverse the dial over thus protecting it during play.  The watch has taken on many different forms over the last 80 or so years.  The Reverso Duo seen here hinges on (is that a pun?) using the reverse side to indicate a second time-zone and day/night indicator.  On the primary side, an engine turned silver Arabic dial with seconds sub-dial.   Both displays are linked to and powered by single caliber.

This model is no longer in production by Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it is still a complete set iwth box and papers and comes with a 15-month warranty backed by Govberg Jewlers. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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Piaget Protocole 26354

Asking Price: $6,500

44mm titanium case

Piaget Protocole watch - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Thin, formal, and simple, the Protocole is the perfect tuxedo watch and in many ways embodies what I think of when I hear the name Piaget.  Like the Reverso, the Protocole has had many different designs over the years; though Piaget still produces a Protocole jewlery line for women, the watch family is long gone.  I think, but am not 100% certain, that this watch uses a Piaget Caliber 500P.   The 500P goes way back in the long line of Piaget Calibers, representing the second generation of Piaget automatic movements (following the 12P).  The 500 series calibers went on to contain 8 unique calibers, eventually supplanted by the Caliber 800 family.

Again, this particular model is no longer offered by Piaget, but that doesn’t make it any less appealing in my book.  That it has no lugs adds to the allure of this watch.  A gentleman might not wear a watch like this every day, but he definitely wants one in his closet for those special occasions.

Nice to see that this piece still has its original box and papers, too. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 SC

Asking Price: $5,650

40mm x 56mm steel case, automatic mechanical movement

Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 SC - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

This is a simple time + date watch out of Franck Muller’s Conquistador family.  I don’t know much about this particular watch except that it is a Franck Muller and Franck Muller is of course one of the greats when it comes to independent watchmaking with a style all one’s own…”Master of Complications” as his moniker oges.  What caught my eye was the bracelet and how it flows in a diagonal manner.  That’s, well, cool if you ask me.  And for $5,650?  Seems like a steal if you are a seasoned collector who has cycled through the mainstream brands and are looking to branch out (the same can be said of the next piece, though you’ll need a bigger bank account).  More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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Roger Dubuis Much More Quantieme Perpetuel M34 57 3 9011

Asking Price: $20,750

rose gold case, automatic mechanical caliber

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual caseback - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual box set - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

How about this watch.  Talk about personality!  Though it is a bit on the pricier side, I couldn’t help but drop it in to this segment on rectangular watches.  First of all, it is an older Roger Dubuis and clearly not part of the brand’s modern day lineup.  Like Muller, Roger Dubuis the man is also a legend of sorts when it comes to big dog watchmakers of the recent modern era.  In addition this watch is perpetual calendar (“quantieme perpetuel”) with tri-letter day and month apertures and subdials for date and moonphase.  It’s even got a killer looking buckle….this piece really speaks to me.  More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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And that’s a wrap!  In the meantime, you are welcome to check out the previous editions of Buying Time (but fair warning, many of the watches in these articles have sold!):

Thanks as always to Govberg Jewelers and their ever changing treasure trove of great pre-owned watches. Be sure to check out their mobile app — Govberg On Time.

See you next week!

Revealed: Black Jade Dialed Roger Dubuis “Knights of the Roundtable II” (Mega Pictorial)

Knights of the Round Table II (2)Table Ronde

In 2013, the legend of King Arthur was the inspiration for a Roger Dubuis creation evocatively named Excalibur Knights of the Round Table.  Moments ago, Roger Dubuis introduced a new interpretation of the watch, and it is every bit as striking in its appearance as the first version.  “Knights of the Roundtable II” features the 12 exquisitely engraved and sculpted bronze knights positioned around a precious black jade dial, their swords form a perfect circle replacing traditional hour-markers.  Wow.

Full details and LOTS of pics on the click

SIHH 2015: Roger Dubuis Collection

Perpetuelle presents the highlights of the 2014 Roger Dubuis collection — a superb range of skeleton tourbillon models.

Click any heading or image below for our more detailed report.

Roger Dubuis logo

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Double Flying Tourbillon red aluminum Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton watch Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon Watch 2015
 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon with gem-set rubber bezel  Roger Dubuis Excalibur Brocéliande

Dubbing 2015 the “Year of the Astral Skeleton”, all of the new Roger Dubuis models are intricately skeletonized and immaculately finished, with a decidedly contemporary aesthetic. And not just the dials and calibers — Roger Dubuis has extended the skeleton work to the case components as well. The manufacture — which only makes pieces which meet the stringent standards to bear the Poinçon de Geneve (Geneva Seal) — has segmented its skeleton tourbillons into three distinct intrepretations this year: “technical” “automatic” and “creative”.

Roger Dubuis 2015

If you are wondering the significance of the”Astral” theme, Roger Dubuis replies as follows: “The short, philosophical answer is because the Manufacture has always been committed to reaching for the horological stars. The more technical reason is because this is the term that most aptly sums up the Roger Dubuis approach to skeleton movements. Stars and constellations are the ‘stellar’ (pun definitely intended) inspiration behind its work in this field, and it is high time for them to shine as brightly as they deserve.”

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You can check out ALL of our SIHH 2015 coverage in our Brand-by-Brand New Release list, right here>>>

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Brocéliande

SIHH 2015…

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Brocéliande ladies watch

Roger Dubuis has already revealed its unique vision of high-end ladies’ creations through a number of highly distinctive jewellery models.  They continue in 2015 with the Excalibur Brocéliande (Brocéliande, a reference to the mystical and legendary French Forest).   As you may recall from SIHH 2013 and the Roger Dubuis World showcased on that occasion, the Excalibur range is inspired by the famous legend of King Arthur, filled with fairytale romance epitomised in the mysterious forest of Brocéliande.  Drawing on these imaginary narratives the designers and movement development engineers of the Manufacture Roger Dubuis have collaborated with gem-setting experts in creating a poetic trilogy of creations based on the ivy leaf theme. The first, seen here, is unveiled at the SIHH 2015.

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