Perrelet, 1777, “Inventor of the Automatic Watch”, has hit a new low. A 50mm, vertigo-inducing, headache-causing, timepiece — literally. Give me a break. I’m sorry, but this is awful. The brand has staked its livelihood on the Turbine; I continue to wonder why. I just don’t see where this is going. What would Abraham-Louis Perrelet say?
Perrelet Turbine XL Paranoia
I love how Perrelet incorporates a submarine’s propeller into the dial. It really boosts the dive watch feel. The Turbine Diver comes in black or blue, with yellow or white trim. It is powered by the Perrelet P-331 automatic double-rotor movement, a Soprod movement (exclusive to Perrelet). Prices for the watch will be $6,550, or $7,200 for the DLC-finished case (significantly more scratch resistant).
The rounded contours of the 11-blade upper rotor subtly evoke a submarine propeller. Spinning freely above the SuperLuminova-coated surface, it creates the illusion of an entirely luminescent dial that naturally gains intensity at night or in the darkness prevailing at great depths. Dive times are measured by a rotating inner bezel ring on which the average 20-minute duration stands out clearly thanks to a play on colors and volumes. it is controlled by user friendly crown at 10 o’clock equipped with a locking system.
Perrelet Turbine Dive Watch
47.5mm steel case (DLC-coating optional), automatic mechanical Perrelet movement (double-rotor), internal rotating bezel
The Arabic numerals, the main hour-markers as well as the subtly black-rimmed hour and minutes hands are also coated in Superluminova, thus enabling them to stand out against the background when it is lit up by the effect of the turbine in motion. The strong personality of the Turbine Diver is accentuated by a 47.5 mm-diameter case water-resistant to 300 meters and designed especially for this model. The fluted caseband is distinguished by four “paws” straddling the bezel, and the integrated winding crown is offset at 4 o’clock symmetrically opposite its counterpart controlling the rotating bezel. The sapphire crystal set into the screw-in caseback provides an admirable view of the automatic P-331 movement developed on the basis of the new Manufacture-made Alternance 10 caliber with its Côtes de Genève motif. The Turbine Diver line is being launched in monochrome (steel) or two-tone (steel/black DLC-coated steel) cases framing a variety of colorful dials.
Ref. A1066/1 – Ref. A1067/1 – Ref. A1067/2 – Ref. A1066/3
Mechanical self-winding, P-331 Double Rotor, a Perrelet exclusive
Central hour, minute and seconds hands
Stainless steel, 47.50 mm in diameter, 14.82 mm thick, anti-glare sapphire crystal on both sides
Rubber, stainless steel pin buckle.
Not long ago I criticized Perrelet for its tasteless string of new “turbine” watches. Having reflected more on the topic – and now seeing some of the new models Perrelet has for 2012 — it appears to me that Perrelet at some point decided to make a big, strategic bet that the “turbine” concept has real staying power. It does not. For a brand whose slogans include “Since 1777″ and “Inventor of the Automatic Watch” to stake its modern day claim to fame on a turbine design is disheartening, at least to me. In short, I see Perrelet as a brand that has lost its way, without a strong and choesive design theme or an overarching brand identity. Just hoping that the mighty turbine will resurrect its fortunes. It’s too bad, really — the brand has such an interesting heritage. As you can guess, I am hoping that the best of Perrelet 2012 — sans turbine — is yet to be revealed.
Below, a sneak peak at a couple new Perrelet turbine variations coming in 2012. Yes, the Turbine Dive Watch is somewhat intriguing, but in the broader context of the turbine collection, its novelty has already been highly diminished. As well, the Perrelet Turbine XL — which came to life last year in garish colors (green, orange) and an equally garish size (50mm) — is being recast in 2012 in a rose gold case. Guess what — it’s still garish, and with a 50mm case we are talking a lot of red gold — so ready your wallets to shell out 25,000 EUR for one of the 77 pieces that will be made.
Perrelet Turbine Diver (spy shot)
specifications presently unknown
Perrelet Turbine XL
50mm rose gold case
Please stop with watches like these. I am quickly losing respect for your brand. Has the “Inventor of the Automatic Watch” lost its way? Or is it just me that finds these Turbine watches so distasteful?
Perrelet Turbine XL “Hentai”
Perrelet XL “America”