Perrelet, 1777, “Inventor of the Automatic Watch”, has hit a new low. A 50mm, vertigo-inducing, headache-causing, timepiece — literally. Give me a break. I’m sorry, but this is awful. The brand has staked its livelihood on the Turbine; I continue to wonder why. I just don’t see where this is going. What would Abraham-Louis Perrelet say?
Perrelet Turbine XL Paranoia
I love how Perrelet incorporates a submarine’s propeller into the dial. It really boosts the dive watch feel. The Turbine Diver comes in black or blue, with yellow or white trim. It is powered by the Perrelet P-331 automatic double-rotor movement, a Soprod movement (exclusive to Perrelet). Prices for the watch will be $6,550, or $7,200 for the DLC-finished case (significantly more scratch resistant).
The rounded contours of the 11-blade upper rotor subtly evoke a submarine propeller. Spinning freely above the SuperLuminova-coated surface, it creates the illusion of an entirely luminescent dial that naturally gains intensity at night or in the darkness prevailing at great depths. Dive times are measured by a rotating inner bezel ring on which the average 20-minute duration stands out clearly thanks to a play on colors and volumes. it is controlled by user friendly crown at 10 o’clock equipped with a locking system.
Perrelet Turbine Dive Watch
47.5mm steel case (DLC-coating optional), automatic mechanical Perrelet movement (double-rotor), internal rotating bezel
The Arabic numerals, the main hour-markers as well as the subtly black-rimmed hour and minutes hands are also coated in Superluminova, thus enabling them to stand out against the background when it is lit up by the effect of the turbine in motion. The strong personality of the Turbine Diver is accentuated by a 47.5 mm-diameter case water-resistant to 300 meters and designed especially for this model. The fluted caseband is distinguished by four “paws” straddling the bezel, and the integrated winding crown is offset at 4 o’clock symmetrically opposite its counterpart controlling the rotating bezel. The sapphire crystal set into the screw-in caseback provides an admirable view of the automatic P-331 movement developed on the basis of the new Manufacture-made Alternance 10 caliber with its Côtes de Genève motif. The Turbine Diver line is being launched in monochrome (steel) or two-tone (steel/black DLC-coated steel) cases framing a variety of colorful dials.
Ref. A1066/1 – Ref. A1067/1 – Ref. A1067/2 – Ref. A1066/3
Mechanical self-winding, P-331 Double Rotor, a Perrelet exclusive
Central hour, minute and seconds hands
Stainless steel, 47.50 mm in diameter, 14.82 mm thick, anti-glare sapphire crystal on both sides
Rubber, stainless steel pin buckle.
Not long ago I criticized Perrelet for its tasteless string of new “turbine” watches. Having reflected more on the topic – and now seeing some of the new models Perrelet has for 2012 — it appears to me that Perrelet at some point decided to make a big, strategic bet that the “turbine” concept has real staying power. It does not. For a brand whose slogans include “Since 1777″ and “Inventor of the Automatic Watch” to stake its modern day claim to fame on a turbine design is disheartening, at least to me. In short, I see Perrelet as a brand that has lost its way, without a strong and choesive design theme or an overarching brand identity. Just hoping that the mighty turbine will resurrect its fortunes. It’s too bad, really — the brand has such an interesting heritage. As you can guess, I am hoping that the best of Perrelet 2012 — sans turbine — is yet to be revealed.
Below, a sneak peak at a couple new Perrelet turbine variations coming in 2012. Yes, the Turbine Dive Watch is somewhat intriguing, but in the broader context of the turbine collection, its novelty has already been highly diminished. As well, the Perrelet Turbine XL — which came to life last year in garish colors (green, orange) and an equally garish size (50mm) — is being recast in 2012 in a rose gold case. Guess what — it’s still garish, and with a 50mm case we are talking a lot of red gold — so ready your wallets to shell out 25,000 EUR for one of the 77 pieces that will be made.
Perrelet Turbine Diver (spy shot)
specifications presently unknown
Perrelet Turbine XL
50mm rose gold case
Please stop with watches like these. I am quickly losing respect for your brand. Has the “Inventor of the Automatic Watch” lost its way? Or is it just me that finds these Turbine watches so distasteful?
Perrelet Turbine XL “Hentai”
Perrelet XL “America”
There is no shortage of watches molded in the casino-theme (the Girard Perregaux Jackpot Tourbillon, the Roger Dubuis La Monagesque, the Bell & Ross Casino, and the Christophe Claret Blackjack come to mind), but this new Perrelet Turbine Poker watch certainly is a novel if not bizarre take on the concept. This watch definitely says “cool” for a first impression, but with such a busy and unrealistic dial (vis-a-vis poker) I find it hard to consider this watch a “showpiece” let alone a daily wearer. The bizarre — and disappointing — thing for me is an unresolvable conflict between the Turbine design and the game of poker. You see, the Turbine features twelve “blades”, but a standard poker hand is only five cards. So the designers had to come up with twelve different cards to show on the dial, thus showing about two-and-a-half “poker” hands. It just doesn’t feel right…in fact it feels a ill-conceived and gimmicky. In short, I guess you could say that watch is another poorly designed watch in a poorly conceived collection that is harming the great potential and reputation of a name with such a profound heritage (Perrelet was the inventor of the automatic watch). The Perrelet Turbine Poker watch price: $6,000.
Perrelet Turbine Poker Watch
44.5mm steel case, Perrelet double-rotor automatic mechanical movement
Ref. A4018/1 features a pair of sevens, Ref. A4018/2 features a pair of sevens and two royal flushes, and Ref. A4018/3 has a pair of sevens, three kings, three jacks, among other cards.
Giant 50mm case…
In 2011 Perrelet will release its ostensibly popular “Turbine” watch in an XL Version. The Perrelet Turbine XL will have a whopping 50mm case and come in a variety of colors and with a slight change to the strap/case integration. The original version of the Turbine was 44mm. You may recall that the spinning “turbine” effect is possible because of Perrelet’s double rotor system.
At this point I’m pretty much seeing this watch as being “too clever by half”. When it was first announced, there was huge ‘buzz’ about the Perrelet Turbine and I was right there, intrigued and curious. But the curiosity quickly faded.. The green and orange color options of the new XL watch only reinforce my view this watch is too much “toy-like”. Seriously, would you pay $5,000+ for this watch? The limited edition rose gold version will cost you closer to $20,000! I can only imagine the depreciation as soon you walk off the lot with this thing on your wrist. Perhaps the ephemeral enjoyment of the ‘wrist turbine’ is worth it for some…but not for me.
Perrelet Turbine XL – 50mm case
2 variations in “DLC” steel…
And 2 versions with a titanium + DLC steel case…
There will also be a limited edition (77 piece) rose gold option:
Any thoughts from other horological connoisseurs out there?
Perpetuelle’s Authorized Dealer Interview Series #2…
In continuing with our Authorized Dealer Interview series, Perpetuelle.com Moderator James Bond recently had the pleasure of interviewing Mr. Al Armstrong of Armstrong Rockwell Watches & Fine Jewelry in Hartford, CT. Like Bond’s prior interview with Dorfman Jewelers of Boston, his discussion with Al Armstrong is equally insightful and entertaining and I wanted to take a moment to highlight it here on the blog.
One of the most interesting things I learned from the interview is that Armstrong Rockwell was one of the very first retailers in American to carry the now very prestigious German watch brand Glashütte Original (my favorite brand!). In addition, I always find it interesting to hear which brands a particular AD carries and why. Armstrong Rockwell carries an interesting mix of well or fairly well-known brands – Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Hublot, Perrelet, Roger Dubuis, IWC, Glashütte Original. They also carry Urban Jurgensen & Sonner of Copenhagen, British watch brand, Dent (most famously known for the creation of Big Ben), and McGonigle Watches, a very unique, independent Irish watch brand (ran by two brothers). I’ll leave it to you to read more about why Al Armstrong decided to carry these brands — and more — in the interview!
Finally — as I noted in the last interview, James and I would like to be able to continue this series of interviews with various leading Authorized Dealers of fine luxury watches. If you are interested in speaking with us, please drop me a line at firstname.lastname@example.org or James Bond at email@example.com. There is no cost/fee — It’s all for the love of watches! You can think of it as a way to gain a bit of free PR and in exchange for sharing some “Authorized Dealer” insights with our audience.
Our Baselworld coverage continues…but first a recap…
As you know Perpetuelle.com has been quite busy these past few days bringing you all of the latest and greatest new watches from the world’s finest independent watchmakers and leading luxury brands. Thank you all for visiting the site these past few days! My team and I take great pride in quite literally working around the clock to bring you the most comprehensive and the most timely coverage of Baselworld possible. This is our passion. It is an event such as Baselworld that we live for, and we hope some of our passion is being transmitted to you!
Now – since “opening weekend” is now behind us, I wanted to give you a quick recap before I move on. First a quick reminder that here on First In Watches, the official Perpetuelle.com blog, I am almost exclusively highlighting only the most exciting new watches to come out of Baselworld. I do critique some of the “less than impressive” watches and watch brands because hey, let’s be honest these brands can and should do better. As an independent voice, I’m not afraid to point out a poorly conceived watch when I see one, but overall I try to remain focused on the positive and write about only the watches that I like or find interesting. Just remember that you are entitled to your opinion and all are welcome to post a comment (even the brands themselves) for a balanced discussion.
So, in alphabetical order, here is what I have featured since last Wednesday. Be sure to check out any that you missed!
- Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Ceramic
- Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 Carbon and BR 126 Carbon
- Blancpain Fifty Fathoms blah blah
- Breguet Type XXII 3880 ST
- Breitling Bentley Supersports
- Chronoswiss Opus Black Magic
- Corum Ti Bridge Tourbillon
- Frédéric Jouvenot Hélios
- Glashütte Original PanoMatic Counter XL
- Glashütte Original Senator Diary
- Grand Seiko Going International
- Green dial green bezel Rolex Submariner
- Harry Winston Opus X
- Hublot “Liberty” Bullets, by the Confrérie Horlogère
- Hublot King Power Tourbillon Manufacture
- Jean Dunand Palace
- Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo
- Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Round
- Maurice Lacroix “Square Wheel”
- New Rolex Explorer
- OMEGA Seamaster PloProf white dial (new variation)
- OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Apollo-Soyuz 35th anniversary
- Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref 5170
- Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref 5961P)
- Patek Philippe Steel Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref 5950A)
- Perrelet Diamond Flower Ceramic
- Recommended Reading: “Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking”, by Michael Clerizo
- Rolex Explorer 214270
- Rolex Teaser
- Tag Heuer Carrera 1887 Chronograph
- TAG Heuer Pendulum Watch
- Tudor Heritage Chrono (with Video)
Finally, don’t forget that the FULL lineup of new watches (complete with specs and info) for each brand is available on our official Baselworld 2010 Forum. Perpetuelle’s Forum Moderator James Bond is doing an excellent job keeping the forum current, however if we are missing something feel free to let us know (contact us tab is above).
Looking forward to tomorrow – well, it is a new day and Baselworld continues – believe me there are still MANY new and exciting watches yet to come!
|Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Ceramic|
|Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 Carbon and BR 126 Carbon|
|Blancpain Fifty Fathoms blah blah|
|Breguet Type XXII 3880 ST|
|Breitling Bentley Supersports|
|Chronoswiss Opus Black Magicu|
|Corum Ti Bridge Tourbillon|
|Frédéric Jouvenot Hélios|
|Glashütte Original PanoMatic Counter XL|
|Glashütte Original Senator Diary|
|Grand Seiko Going International|
|Green dial green bezel Rolex Submariner|
|Harry Winston Opus X|
|Hublot “Liberty” Bullets, by the Confrérie Horlogère|
|Hublot King Power Tourbillon Manufacture|
|Jean Dunand Palace|
|Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo|
|Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Round|
|Maurice Lacroix “Square Wheel”|
|New Rolex Explorer|
|OMEGA Seamaster PloProf white dial (new variation)|
|OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Apollo-Soyuz 35th anniversary|
|Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref 5170|
|Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref 5961P)|
|Patek Philippe Steel Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref 5950A)|
|Perrelet Diamond Flower Ceramic|
|Recommended Reading: “Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking”, by Michael Clerizo|
|Rolex Explorer 214270|
|Tag Heuer Carrera 1887 Chronograph|
|TAG Heuer Pendulum Watch|
|Tudor Heritage Chrono (with Video)|
Ceramic is in in 2010…
This is a sneak peak at the new Perrelet Diamond Flower ceramic watch. More info and a video, below.
I love the design of the original this collection – it is simply beautiful. Not to mention its adaptation of Perrelet’s unique “double rotor” system (see the video below) in which the top-side rotor is in the shape of diamond-lined flower petals. Now, with this year’s addition of a black and white ceramic bracelet/case with a black mother-of-pearl dial, Perrelet is stepping it up a notch in with an even more luxurious and mechanically sophisticated extension of the collection.
More broadly, I am sensing that ceramic watches will be a hot item this year, particularly in the ladies segment. While of course there’s always been the Chanel J12 series setting the standard for the ladies ceramic watch, not to mention its one-off limited edition pieces such as the very beautiful and one-of-a-kind J12 Joaellerie as well as the new and engimatic “concept watch” known as the Chanel J12 Tourbillon Retrograde Mysterieuse Automatic (see the high res pics and video here), other brands are emerging with their own and equally impressive ceramic watches. Perrelet being one good example. Also, I think that the new TAG Heuer F1 ceramic ladies collection will be very well received – the watches look great – you should really take a look if you haven’t seen them yet.
And of course on the men’s side it is more about the ceramic bezel – most recently and notably the new OMEGA Seamaster Liquidmetal watch, sure to be one of the most popular watches seen in Basel this year (available first here on Perpetuelle since Oct’09).
Will we see more new and exciting ceramic watches this year at Baselworld? You can count on it!
Perrelet “Titanium” Collection is refreshed with simple time + date model…
Here’s a new and sporty looking titanium watch from Swiss watchmaker Perrelet. If you don’t know Perrelet as the “Inventor of the Automatic Watch” (which it is, circa 1777), you probably know it for its “Turbine” watch which received a lot of exciting and postive media coverage last year (check the Turbine watch video here). However, I think the Turbine watch was somewhat gimmicky (I have seen it “in the metal”) and not truly representative of the brand and its sophisticated watches, and that’s why I am excited to share this new Titanium collection watch with you today. More after the jump.
Perrelet first introduced its Titanium Collection of watches in 2007, and this year the collection is getting a fresh upgrade. This new model has a very sporty look to it that I really like. Also, with hours/mins/seconds + date function, it is relatively simple compred to current and previous Titanium collection models. The current Titanium collection lineup has four different models, each with a different set of complications (functions) – double rotor, chronograph with big date, regulator with retrograde hour, and a moonphase. Assuming that Perrelet has not changed the basic watch specs, this watch will have a 43.5mm case size. Price? Probably slightly north of $4,000.
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