Patek Philippe introduces the Ref. 3670A, an extraordinary new watch model.  Patek Philippe also tells a fascinating story of provenance behind the Ref. 3670A — reprinted it in its entirety below.  In short, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3670A rises from the discovery of 16 magnificent column-wheel chronograph movements, Caliber 13-130, originally assembled and adjusted by Patek Philippe in the middle of the 20th Century.  Because the Caliber 13-130 was integrated in the regular production schedule at Patek Philippe and for about 30 years and is coveted by serious collectors, the rediscovery of 16 of these calibers (resting peacefully in a drawer inside the Patek Philippe historical building on Rue du Rhône) and their flawless condition is thus an extraordinary occurrence.  From the new Patek Manufactory in Plan-les-Ouates, the 16 calibers were subsequently disassembled, restored and reassembled.  Patek then chose to bring the movements to life from within Patek’s stainless steel, cushion-shaped cases…and the rest, as they say, is history…

The Patek Ref. 3670A is sold only through the Patek Philippe Salons Geneva.  The Ref. 3670A price is 240,000 Swiss Francs.

Patek Philippe Ref 3670A Column Wheel Chronograph

Limited Edition 16 Pieces

37mm x 45mm stainless steel case, manual-wind Patek Caliber 13-130 (crafted in 1955 from a Valjoux ébauche modified especially for Patek Philippe); matte black alligator strap with grey hand-stitching (21x16mm), stainless steel prong buckle

Dial – Anthracite brushed dial center, circular brushed counters and dial periphery with gold applied hour markers, sand brushed white gold hands, white chronograph and 30’ counter hand
hours, minutes, chronograph with 30′ semi-instantaneous counter at 3 o’clock, seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, sweep chronograph hand

Patek Caliber 13-130
Diameter: 29.5 mm; Height: 5.95 mm; Jewels: 23;  Power reserve: min. 39 hours; Balance: Glucydur with screws; Frequency: 18’000 semi-oscillations/hour (2.5 Hz); Balance spring: Breguet

Story of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3670A Column Wheel Chronograph, as told by Patek Philippe:

The story of the Reference 3670A begins like a fairy tale in which a long-lost treasure is discovered. In 1996, Patek Philippe began to prepare the move from its historic domicile on Rue du Rhône in Geneva. On this occasion, an old wooden chest – long stowed away unheeded in a corner on the fifth floor – attracted attention. When it was opened, curiosity turned into enchantment: Apart from many other precious artifacts, one of the numerous drawers also contained sixteen caliber 13-130 chronograph movements that had been assembled and adjusted in 1955!

For collectors and watchmaking enthusiasts, the manually wound caliber 13-130 with column-wheel control ranks among the manufacture’s technical jewels and is also regarded as a milestone in the history of chronographs. The movement is based on a 13-ligne Valjoux ébauche (diameter approx. 28 mm) that was modified explicitly for Patek Philippe. Salient features of this elegant high-performance caliber include the S-shaped clutch lever, the lovely escape-wheel and driving-wheel bridges, the whiplash index adjuster, and the very special shape of the three-armed chronograph bridge.

In 1938, the movement was integrated in the regular production schedule at Patek Philippe and for about 30 years constituted the heart of those timepieces that have always been most coveted by connoisseurs and aficionados of rare watches.

The rediscovery of 16 of these calibers crafted in 1955 and their flawless condition is thus an extraordinary occurrence. To commemorate the lucky find, Patek Philippe has created a limited special edition of chronographs in which the precious mechanical movements spring back to life: the Reference 3670A.

With great passion and true to horological traditions, the caliber 13-130 movements discovered in the wooden chest were totally disassembled, restored, and reassembled by Patek Philippe master watchmakers. Additionally, they were readjusted to the strict accuracy requirements that apply to all Patek Philippe watches. Even though they do not fully match the rate accuracy of modern mechanical movements, they now tick with a degree of precision unheard of in the era during which they were manufactured.

To do justice to these aesthetically appealing technical masterpieces, Patek Philippe chose a cushion-shaped case originally launched in 2010; it was inspired by the first Patek Philippe wrist chronographs of the 1920s and features subtle art deco accents. Rectangular pushers, also adopted from historic timepieces, add the finishing touch to the retro-contemporary style. The watch has a sweep chronograph hand, a seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, and a semi-instantaneous 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock. It has a power reserve of 39 hours.

Crafted in a limited edition of sixteen watches, the Reference 3670A in stainless steel is a beautiful fusion of the past and the present in a timepiece that like all Patek Philippe watches is intended to endure the passage of time and the succession of generations.

This the new Patek Philippe Ref 5235, a Regulator with Annual Calendar — and it’s a real “WOW” watch, no doubt about it.  Like the Patek Ref 3939 I showed you yesterday, the Patek 5235 is another Patek “first”.  The “first” being the use of a “regulator” dial — which I briefly explain, below.  In somewhat of an interesting twist, the Patek 5235 Regulator has not been *officially* announced by Patek, but word came to me through cyberspace after the watch was spied in the latest edition of the Patek Philippe magazine (Vol. 3 No. 4).   Official images when I get them, but for now…here ya go:

Patek Philippe Ref. 5235 Regulator Annual Calendar (Spy Shots)

40.5 mm white gold case, (new) Patek Caliber 31-260 (2.53mm thin!!) with micro-rotor, 60 hour power reserve

As a quick refresher — in watchmaking tradition, “regulator” watches were special pendulum clocks, used by watchmakers in their workshops to set the exact time and therefore to test the precision of smaller watches.  In order to achieve optimum readability of the time, the hands were positioned on different axes of the dial.  Case in point — as you can see above — there is a sole central hand, dominating the dial as it marks the minutes.  The subsidiary dials — seconds at 6 o’clock and hour dial at  12 o’clock round out the standard timekeeping “trio”.

Patek has also very tastefully incorporated day of week, month, and date windows, thus completing the watch with Annual Calendar capability.

Note also the ultra-thin (2.53mm) micro-rotor powered movement — the new Patek Caliber 31-260.

What else to say but WOW!

Here is the first look at Patek Philippe’s “unique piece” for the Only Watch 2011 charity auction in Monaco, a breathtaking stainless steel minute repeater model (Ref. 3939A).   Of note, this is the first time that Patek has produced a stainless steel minute repeater with a black enamel dial based on the emblematic Ref. 3939 model.  Previous versions of the Ref 3939 were all precious metals – platinum (Ref 3939HP), yellow gold (Ref 3939 HJ), white gold (Ref 3939 HP) and rose gold (Ref 3939 HR).  This watch lacks the “flair” that many of the other ONLY WATCH 2011 pieces offer, but of course “discretion” is the Patek way.  For many watch connoisseurs, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 3939 – with its minute repeater, tourbillon, and subsidiary seconds dial – constitutes the apex of watchmaking, the most beautiful blend of elegance and discretion, and I wholeheartedly concur – this watch is a true object of desire!  Look for this watch to bring big bucks in support of the ONLY WATCH 2011 cause.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon (Ref 3939A) for ONLY WATCH 2011

33.3mm stainless steel case, black enamel dial with Breguet-style hands, seconds subdial, mechanical manual-wind movement (Caliber R TO 27 PS) (COSC) featuring minute repeater and tourbillon (two gong chimes activated by slide piece on the case), interchangeable full back/sapphire crystal case back

mechanical manual-wind movement (Caliber R TO 27 PS) (COSC) featuring minute repeater and tourbillon (two gong chimes activated by slide piece on the case)

Patek 5550P Perpetual Calendar with Oscillomax

Limited Edition 300 pieces

37.2mm platinum case (8.8mm thick), Caliber 240 Q Si ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement

Note that the Patek 5550P dial bears the notation “Advanced Research”, a nod to the Patek Philippe Advanced Research department created six years ago to create innovative components from the latest materials using the latest technologies — with the ultimate goal of producing more reliable and more accurate timepieces.

Patek GyromaxSi Balance

The trio of components you see here will be known as:  Oscillomax

Patek Pulsomax Escapement	Patek Spiromax Balance Spring

Basically what all this means is that Patek is making a big leap forward to adopt and standardize the use of silicon-based components in its movements, as these components offer better performance and reliability.  WatchTime and Worltempus (Elizabeth Doerr) have the full story if you click through.

Patek Caliber 240 Q Si

I have highlighted the Oscillomax components and engraving:

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time (Ref. 5164A)

40.8mm steel case (10-4 o’clock), Dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time Local and “home” day/night indication in apertures

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]]> http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watches/patek-philippe-aquanaut-travel-time-ref-5164a/feed/ 0 http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watches/patek-philippe-ref-5208-grand-complication/ http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watches/patek-philippe-ref-5208-grand-complication/#comments Thu, 24 Mar 2011 13:26:09 +0000 Kyle Stults http://blog.perpetuelle.com/?p=9211 The new “Triple Complication” Ref. 5208 is the first Patek Philippe wristwatch to combine a chronograph, a minute repeater, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays.   It is also Patek’s first Grand Complication with a Spiromax balance spring and a Pulsomax escapement — two silicon-based components developed by Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5208 Grand Complication

42mm platinum case, Mechanical self-winding movement (Caliber R CH 27 PS QI), Interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back

Minute repeater, monopusher chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar

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]]> http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watches/patek-philippe-ref-5208-grand-complication/feed/ 0 http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watches/patek-philippe-ref-5270-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/ http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watches/patek-philippe-ref-5270-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/#comments Wed, 23 Mar 2011 14:31:19 +0000 Kyle Stults http://blog.perpetuelle.com/?p=9149 Patek Philippe is expanding its classic chronograph collection with the introduction of a new perpetual calendar model.  The Patek Ref. 5270 is fitted with a column wheel chronograph movement and, like all the brand’s grand complications, has two interchangeable backs: one in sapphire crystal that reveals the complexity of the movement and the elegance of its finishing, the other, a white gold solid back that can be personalized with a dedication or an engraving.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. 5270)

41mm white gold case, Patek hand-wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre, silvered opaline dial with black oxidised white-gold hour markers and hands

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]]> http://blog.perpetuelle.com/watches/patek-philippe-ref-5270-perpetual-calendar-chronograph/feed/ 0 http://blog.perpetuelle.com/special-reports/watch-spotting-and-wrist-shots-done-right/ http://blog.perpetuelle.com/special-reports/watch-spotting-and-wrist-shots-done-right/#comments Wed, 18 Aug 2010 10:28:31 +0000 Kyle Stults http://blog.perpetuelle.com/?p=6415 “…I am spotting for rare, unique and beautiful watches….”

If you are a die-hard watch fan, then you know all about “watch spotting”.  I am yet to hang out with a watch guy who does not also confess to checking out the wrists of his fellow co-workers or countrymen in the office, on the sidewalk, at the stoplight, etc. etc.  Often watch spotting is done discreetly — but not always, as you will see in a moment.  It is likewise fun finding oneself on the receiving end of a watch spotting (i.e. you are asked “Hey, what’s that on your wrist?”).

This leads me to my focus today, which is an exceptional collection of wrist shot photos taken by a gent who was recently vacationing in the Cote d’Azur (aka the French Riviera aka Nice/Cannes/Monaco/etc.).  Cote d’Azur truly is a “lifestyles of the rich and famous” scene — from the huge yachts to the Ferraris and Lambos right down to the Audemars Piguet and Patek’s on the wrists, it’s pretty much full of people with off-the-charts wealth.

The fellow who runs “How’s Hamp” (cool blog, btw) did an excellent job of photographing and documenting his watch spottings for people to enjoy.   His album mostly includes “Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille and Patek Philippe watches but a few Rolex and Panerai’s are featured too.”   I have no doubt that you will enjoy the photos.  Click through here to see “How’s Hamp:  Watch Spotting in Cote d’Azur.”

Also while we are on the topic, I want to also quickly mention that the enjoyment of seeing “who’s wearing what” is what led me to create “Wrist Shot”- the first Facebook App for watch owners, collectors & enthusiasts.  The app was launched earlier this summer but is still in development phase (we are working on the enhanced version now).  You can read more about Wrist Shot HERE or check it out on Facebook HERE.

Finally, let me give a special thanks to the man himself (Hampus) for the head’s up — now go check out his “Watch Spotting in Cote d’Azur!!!

In brief, the two areas I will drill-down on here are: 1) differing accounts of Donald Woolbright by a self-interested parties (Christie’s and Woolbright) vs. non-interested parties (2 authors of Howard Hughes biographies published in 2004), and 2) a couple of “oddities”  including a “note” from Hughes to Woolbright which accompanied the watch, and Woolbright’s obituary which makes no mention of the man’s 6+ years of employment for Hughes.

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Meet Donald R. Woolbright (Christie’s Account)

You can read the full account in the e-catalogue, page 266, but I shall summarize here.  According to Christie’s, the watch comes from Donald R. Woolbright, a man who was contracted by Hughes to “perform various surveillance assignments” in the mid-1960s.  The watch has purportedly been with Woolbright (now deceased — more on this later) and his family since it was given to him by Howard Hughes.  According to Christie’s, after one particularly “extensive” surveillance assignment, Hughes was so very pleased with Woolbright’s performance that he decided to give Woolbright the watch as a bonus.  And so the Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 (today, Christie’s Lot 385) was purportedly delivered to Donald R. Woolbright, along with a note from Hughes — “From my wrist to yours, very pleased with your results. Many thanks, Howard.”

Meet Donald R. Woolbright (Biographers’ Account)

I cite both Citizen Hughes, by Michael Drosnin, and Howard Hughes: His Life and Madness, by Donald L. Bartlett & James B. Steele, in which Donald Woolbright is mentioned many times.  The numerous references to Donald R. Woolbright in the aforementioned biographies are quite revealing as to this man and his background, and they seem to tell a different story than the Christie’s account.

Michael Drosnin writes on page 24 in Citizen Hughes:

A product of the north St. Louis slums, the car salesman [Donald Woolbright] had run up a hometown police record almost as long as Gordon’s list of screen credits.  He had twenty-six arrests, on charges ranging from burglary and fencing to assault and carrying a concealed weapon….Back in St. Louis, police called him a “nickel-and-dimer”, a street hustler with no real stature in the criminal community…

Barlett & Steele gave a similar introduction to Woolbright on page 524 of Howard Hughes: His Life and Madness:

The car salesman was Donald Ray Woolbright, who had moved to Los Angeles just three years earlier.  Back in St. Louis, where he grew up in the city’s slums, Woolbright had complied a record of two dozen arrests for a variety of alleged offenses, including burglary, assault, and counterfeiting.  When Woolbright moved to California in 1971, the intelligence unit of the St. Louis Police Department sent a message to the Los Angeles police advising them of his background and describing him as a “con-man, burglar and fence.”

Of note, in the combined 1,100+ pages of these two books there is absolutely no reference to Woolbright being a “surveillance” man for Hughes.   The reason that Woolbright is mentioned in these books is because of his mysterious involvement in “Hughesgate” and a notorious incident in Hughes’ life known as the “Romaine Street burglary”.

Woolbright’s involvement in the  (never solved) Romaine St. robbery eventually led to his indictment for receiving stolen property and attempting to extort a $1 million ransom for the papers that were stolen from Hughes’ Romain Street offices (see page 542 of Howard Hughes: His Life and Madness). He was convicted on the extortion charge, but later acquitted on what could be considered a technicality.

A man claiming (I say this only because I have not attempted to verify his identity) to be Donald Woolbright’s son commented on one of my earlier articles that it was Hughes himself who orchestrated the Romaine Street burglary.  I am not aware of evidence which supports this notion.   Also asserted by Woolbright’s son is that “What many do not know is that Mr. Hughes had extensive surveilence done on his own employees.”  but again I am not aware of evidence that supports this assertion.

Donald R. Woolbright’s Obituary

Donald R. Woolbright passed away on March 14, 2009 in Ulman, Missouri.  This is consistent with historical record from one of my cited sources — we know from page 533 of Howard Hughes: His Life and Madness — after the Romaine Street saga, “late in 1974, Donald Woolbright packed up his family, sold his house in Canoga Park, and moved back to Missouri, where he bought a small farm near Williamsville, a tiny hamlet in the Ozarks about seventeen miles northwest of Poplar Bluff.”

Here are the relevant lines of his obituary, the full text is posted at Alternative Funeral & Cremation Services of Saint Peters, MO:

Donald Ray Woolbright, age 68, died Thursday, May 14, 2009 in Ulman, Missouri. Mr. Woolbright was born September 4, 1940 in Trumann, Arkansas, the son of the late Clyde William and Jalah Idena Sandlin Woolbright. He was retired from the automotive business, was a veteran of the United States Army and a member of Our Lady of the Lake Catholic Church.

Curiously, there no mention of Woolbright’s 6+ years of employment for Howard Hughes (which Woolbright “always fondly remembered”, according to Christie’s).

The Note from Hughes to Woolbright

As I mentioned above, when the Patek Philippe Ref 1463 watch was purportedly delivered to Donald R. Woolbright it was accompanied by a note from Hughes which read:

From my wrist to yours, very pleased with your results. Many thanks, Howard.

The oddity here is that the oft-paranoid Hughes was notorious for NOT wearing a watch or carrying money, according to Paul B. Winn, a former personal secretary of Hughes.  Sure it is possible that Hughes was just being cordial, but given the other questions in play here, I have to wonder about this note.  Also, it is unknown whether or not this note even exists or if it is just part of the “story”.

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In summary, it was with these details in hand that I submitted the following questions to Christie’s via email (they refused my phone calls) and in my open letter:

• Who told Christie’s the story of Donald Woolbright and this watch?
• Did Christie’s independently corroborate this story (i.e. that the watch was given by Hughes to Woolbright)?
• Is there any tangible/physical evidence to support the notion that this watch has any association with Howard Hughes (e.g. the handwritten note)? If so, has the authenticity of the tangible/physical items been corroborated?
• Was/is Christie’s aware of the accounts of Woolbright as detailed in the two aforementioned books?

These questions were — and remain — unanswered.

Lastly, I will lastly add that Geoff Schumacher, author of Howard Hughes: Power, Paranoia & Palace Intrigue (Stephens Press, 2008) and proprietor of http://www.howardhughesblog.com also voiced his serious doubts as to the watch’s provenance.

At this point, I do not plan to pursue this matter further and barring any developments this will be my last post on the subject.  I felt it was important to lay out a few additional details for the readers of this blog.

SOLD!

for

$254,500

-

“…Unfortunately the purchaser of this watch remains undocumented and sales records of this transaction may not be available…” (page 266, Christie’s June 16 Auction catalogue)

It is unfortunate that serious questions regarding the provenance of this watch were posed to Christie’s, yet Christie’s did not answer them.  In my view, unless and until these questions are properly answered by Christie’s, this watch’s provenance, namely its purported association with the late Howard Hughes, should be considered highly doubtful.

Perpetuelle’s additional, in-depth coverage of this watch can be seen here:

1. The Curious Case of the “Howard Hughes” Patek Philippe Ref 1463, Continued (June 15, 2010)
2. The Curious Case of the “Howard Hughes” Patek Philippe Ref 1463 (June 14, 2010)
   
3. Howard Hughes Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 Up At Auction (June 3, 2010)