♥ New Patek Philippe Ref 5905P Annual Calendar Chronographs (Platinum)

  Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905P duo - Perpetuelle

With its new Ref. 5905P Annual Calendar Chronograph, Patek Philippe brings a reference to replace the 5960 precious metal references.  The 5905 begins with a meanignfully upsized case (42mm vs. 40.5mm), still gracefully rounded with gently curved lugs — crafted of platinum.  The dial — available in navy blue and black versions — reflects the design of the Ref. 5205 Annual Calendar launched in 2010 but with new colors and other details including now being a 60 minute chrono rather than 12 hour.   All in all, I think it is much improved as the changes enable the subdial to be simpler and thus easier to read.  to I’ll break it all down, below.

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5227G-010

Patek Philippe 5227G-010 - Perpetuelle

Although alternative precious metal and dial combinations exist for the 5227, Patek Philippe took it upon itself to add yet another by introducing the Calatrava 5227G-010 with a stark, black face and a white gold case. Like other variations, the design is easy on the eyes and telling time is a breeze, as it should be for any dress watch. A date aperture located at the three o’clock position is nothing out of the ordinary, either—and why should it be, given that the 5227 is a traditional timepiece meant to fly under the radar and quietly radiate superb quality?

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The Superlative new Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370, with Platinum Case and Black Enamel Dial

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370 caseback - Perpetuelle

The year 2014 was dedicated entirely to Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary, but 2015 still gives us some exciting new watches from Patek.  Well, exciting, and controversial, at least in view of strong opinions on the new Calatrava Travel Time 5524! Overall, though, 2015 evidences that the brand continues to look ahead.  The chronograph & split-seconds chronograph type of watch is part of the core legacy of Patek Philippe: the manufacture’s very first wrist chronograph, presented in 1923, was already a split-seconds model.   Since then, the complication – which allows lap and intermediate times to be stopped without interrupting the ongoing measurement – has always featured in the repertoire of regularly produced Patek Philippe wristwatches.  Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph, seen here, is a watch whose mechanics are indeed focused entirely on measuring the duration of transient events.  But seems a bit of an understatement for a watch which will probably list at over 200,000 Swiss Francs, now isn’t it?!

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First Look: Patek Philippe Ref 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

Patek Philippe Ref 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time watch - Perpetuelle

Well, Baselworld 2015 has officially begun, and I often like to start with Patek Philippe.  There are some exciting pieces in the Patek 2015 lineup (you are gonna love the 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph), but let’s start with a piece that I think will be controversial…the new Ref 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.  No doubt this one’s going to catch a lot of folks off-guard.  At first glance, one might be inclined to think that this watch does not even look like a Patek Philippe.  Indeed it is a pilot’s watch, as the brand seems to be trying to reclaim its association with aviator’s watches.   It features a dual zone-time mechanism, with local and home day/night indication in apertures on either side of the dial, and a date sub-dial at 6 o’clock.   The blue varnished dial has white gold applied numerals that are luminous (they hands are luminous as well).  There is a crown at 3 o’clock and two pump pushers on the other side of the case.  The watch is fitted on a brown calf leather strap with what Patek calls a “clevis prong” buckle.  The contrarian in me likes this watch, but I think that most Patek fans will pan it on account of it not having that special, distinctive look that a Patek Philippe watch should.

Hmmm…how about you?

Patek Philippe Reference 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

40.5mm white gold case, automatic mechanical PP Cal CH 28-520 C FUS (sapphire case back)

Price 42,000 CHF

Patek Philippe Ref 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time front back - Perpetuelle

Patek Philippe Ref 5524 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time  - Perpetuelle

The caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement is also found in the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A.

I’ll be back with more details soon.