2015 first look…
In 2014 it was the Year of the Horse. In 2015, we get the goat. The Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat (PAM 848), a 100 pc limited edition featuring a hunter case decorated with gold-inlaid hand-engraving, will continue Panerai’s tradition of releasing an annual engraved Sealand to commemorate each new Chinese Zodiac year. The watch is the seventh of the exclusive series, which began in 2009 with the Special Edition created for the year of the Ox, followed by watches made in the year of the Tiger, the Rabbit, the Dragon (PAM 840) the Snake, and the Horse (PAM 847).
As I discussed in my Year of the Horse post, the motif on these Sealand watches are hand-engraved – then the grooves are inlaid with gold threads which are hammered, layer by layer, until the desired effect is achieved (see my Panerai Year of the Horse post for some photo illustration).
The simple dial with date and small seconds remains very similar to prior iterations, although the cyclops date is gone, and the hunter case fastening system (below 6 o’clock) has been slightly changed to a “bar” clasp system this year vs. prior year constructions which utilized a “pin catch” system (look at prior year models and you can see what I am talking about).
As I noted in my discussion of 2012’s Year of the Dragon, Panerai’s Sealand models are extremely exclusive. From 2002 to 2005, Panerai made several Sealand models in partnership with bespoke gun and rifle maker Purdey featuring African big-game engravings on the hunter-case. The engraving by Purdey on these 2002 – 2005 models is absolutely stunning, as you can see for yourself on Panerai’s website.
But all these engraved Sealand’s are amazing watches, highly collectible and little known to many watch enthusiasts, even Paneristi. So even though it is a goat, you can add this one to the ‘highly collectible’ list.
Did You Know?
This is the first Sealand watch in Luminor 1950 case and also the first to have an in-house movement (the P.9000) rather than a Unitas.
SIHH 2015 sneak peek…
The first major watch event of 2015 is right around the corner, and you know what that means: let the pre-releases begin! As usual, Officine Panerai shares with Perpetuelle.com readers a first look at one of the new watches to be presented in its 2015 collection. The new Panerai PAM 580 has an in-house automatic mechanical Panerai caliber (the P.9100) providing flyback chronograph timing capability. It is housed in an absolutely killer looking 44mm black ceramic case with a bead-blasted matte-finish.
A Pre-V Remake With An In-House Movement…
In addition to the newest additions to the Radiomir 1940 case family unveiled a few weeks ago, Officine Panerai is introducing a special edition box set featuring the Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio and Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC (acciaio = steel). These special “Pre-V” remakes are being offered as a set and given Panerai reference PAM 785, with total production limited to only 500 sets. Panerai timepieces made before the Panerai was bought by Vendome Group (the predecessor of Richemont) are known amongst Panerai cognoscenti as “Pre-Vendome” watches. For obvious reasons, Pre-Vendome/Pre-V Panerai’s tend to be highly collectible — and very expensive — timepieces. More on this, and a look at the watches, below.
Between 1993, the year of the first collection of watches not made exclusively for military use, and 1997, the year when the brand was acquired by the Richemont Group, Officine Panerai created just a few hundred watches which over the years have acquired an extraordinary value, becoming cult objects for many enthusiastic collectors.
Panerai describes the PAM 758 set as follows:
…consisting of two models inspired by two of the watches most representative of the pre-Vendôme era, made to order in 1996 for the American actor Sylvester Stallone, a great enthusiast and spontaneous advocate of the brand, who was at the time involved in the film Daylight: the Luminor Black Seal and the Luminor Daylight.
The PAM 785 set comes in a pear wood box which also contains a model of the human torpedo (Siluro a Lenta Corsa or Slow-speed torpedo) on a teak base and a rare publication about the military equipment of the special forces of the Royal Italian Navy, naturally including Panerai watches and instruments.
The two models are both 44mm stainless steel, though the Luminor Black Seal is distinguished with its DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) finish, hence its black color. Another perhaps obvious difference between the two models is the design of the dial. The Luminor Daylight is white with numeric hour markers and a detailed minute track while the Luminor Black Seal has a black dial with numerals at only the cardinal points in. Both watches have the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock; another element taken from the past by Panerai which over the years has become a distinctive characteristic.
Collectors should take now, however, that the “Slytech” notation as found on the original Pre-V models is not present on the modern day remakes. And also, despite their historical inspiration, Panerai has of course opted to update the mechanical calibers in each watch: both have Panerai’s in-house P.5000. The P.5000 is a manual-wind caliber with power reserve of eight days.
The closed back of the case is engraved with the inscription “Officine Panerai Firenze” and the OPlogo (not pictured). The watches are shown on Pre-V style straps with sewn-in buckles (two identical, spare straps are also included). Good looking watches with a nice box and assorted accessories — great for the Panerai die-hard.
Reporting on the new many new pieces introduced at Watches & Wonders Hong Kong this year, here’s your first look at the new Panerai Radiomir 3 Days GMT Oro Rosso (PAM 598). A real beauty, with a 47mm red gold case and Panerai’s in-house P.3001/10 movement visible through the caseback. The P.3001 features GMT function and a high level of finishing and skeleton work. The deep blue dial has a radiant “satiné soleil” (satin sun) finish and looks absolutely divine with the red gold case. You can see it all in many high-res detail shots below.
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