Limited edition 8 pieces in rose gold, priced at $493,500

A beautiful piece of time and art from Montres Jaquet Droz — the Bird Repeater.  The craftsmanship and micro-mechanical complexity of this watch are superb.  The watch is a combination of a minute repeater and mechanically animated birds — presented in a 47 mm rose gold case fitted on a rolled-edge black alligator strap with a rose-gold folding clasp.  Only eight pieces will be made, each with the series number engraved on the caseback, at a price of $472,500.   Eight pieces will also be produced in a white-gold case with diamonds, priced at $493,500.  Aside from hands-on, the best way to appreciate this watch — with its eight distinct animations and minute repeater chimes — is in the below video, courtesy of Jaquet Droz.
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If there is one thing I feel that Jaquet Droz excels at, it is in creating watches that are elegant.  I believe that sums up this new Eclipse Onyx watch in a word.  Really, a beautiful watch — the dial is of course crafted of onyx & housed in a polished steel case, but it is the serpentine  hand which marks the day of the month and the minimalistic celestial scene on the bottom of the dial that really draw me to this watch.  Video at bottom.

Jaquet Droz Eclipse Onyx Watch

43mm steel case, automatic mechanical JD Calibre 6553LZ, onyx dial, black alligator strap

VIDEO

Never been a big fan of Jaquet Droz (what can I say, I’m not classy enough to wear one ), but this watch really struck me as a powerful and stunning timepiece.  Clearly intended for the Chinese market, this is a limited edition of 88 pieces featuring a painted scene of two imperial dragons fighting over a pearl.  They are set against an ivory background of Grand Feu enamel.  Subtle touches of red enhance the powerful imagery of the drawing.  List price on this fine piece is $32,500.

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Dragon

Limited Edition 88

43mm gold case, solid gold hands, rolled-edge, hand-made brown alligator strap, mechanical self-winding double-barrel movement powered 22-carat white gold rotor

Ref. J005033217

Today’s Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute is my 15th “ONLY Watch 2011″ preview (see them all here), putting me about halfway through the 30 or so pieces that will be auctioned for charitable support of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research.  This exclusive piece  boasts a Grand Feu-style  enamel dial adorned with hand painted depiction of one of Monaco’s most renowned landscapes.  The 22-carat white gold oscillating weight is finished with a hand-engraved sunray motif (not pictured)

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute for ONLY WATCH 2011

Unique Piece

43mm red gold case, Jaquet Droz 2653 automatic mechanical movement (double barrel, white gold rotor weight), off-centered hours/minutes, fitted on rolled-edge brown alligator strap with matching red gold buckle

Onyx…

As I was recently reviewing some of the new watches presented at Baselworld, I came across this beauty from Swatch Group-owned Montres Jaquet Droz – the Grande Heure Minute Onyx.  It is said that of all the stones used by Montres Jaquet Droz’s expert dial-makers, onyx is particularly admired.  This composition of onyx (dial) and steel (case) is particularly alluring.  In a world of intricate and often highly detailed watch designs, this watch really stands apart in a simple, graceful sort of way.  Definitely the standout piece in the 2010 Jaquet Droz collection.

“Majestic Beijing”

43mm stainless steel case, Reference J017030201,  Centered hours and minutes. Small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, comes on a rolled-edge hand made black alligator leather strap with matching stainless steel buckle

Price may be in the $15,000 range, but just a guess.

10/1 Update:  A report this morning from WorldTempus via Romandie News appears to definitively confirm the story we broke yesterday.

Sources indicate that Manuel Emch has or is leaving Montres Jaquet Droz, although this is still not 100% confirmed by First In Watches.  Emch has been President of Jaquet Droz, part of the Swatch Group, since 2001.  I will provide an update as soon as Swatch Group, which would neither confirm nor deny the rumor, issues an official statement.

A nice post to start off the week – a late-breaking interview in Perpetuelle.com’s “Post-Baselworld Interview Series” – and this one with none other than Mr. Manuel Emch himself.  For those of you not familiar with the name, Manuel Emch is President of the highly prestigious, ultra-luxurious watchmaker Montres Jaquet Droz SA.  I am pleased to share this interview with you below in which Mr. Emch shares his insights into Baselworld 2009, online media, and much more.

Montres Jaquet Droz at Baselworld 2009

Mr. Manuel Emch

Perpetuelle: How was BASELWORLD 2009 different for Jaquet Droz compared to prior years?

Mr. Emch:  It was different due to the change of schedule between the SIHH (from January, 20th to January, 25th 2009) and Baselworld (from March, 25th to April, 2nd 2009), but also due to the challenging economical environment. However, in terms of presence and orders, Baselworld 2009 was better than expected and at comparable level with 2008. We presented over 50 novelties and among them an entirely new horological instrument: the automaton La Machine à Ecrire le Temps, the first automaton of modern times.

La Machine à Ecrire le Temps

In the current economic situation, customers tend to be more selective and are searching for sustainable values. Jaquet Droz, as an exclusive brand combining classical values and innovative technologies, represents a safe hedge in this context.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the philosophy behind the new 2009 releases from Jaquet Droz.

Mr. Emch:  My direct environment is a great source of inspiration as it fuels me with a constant flow of various perceptions – sounds, images, colours,… – leading to fresh ideas and innovative projects.

For the new Jaquet Droz collection, launched at Baselworld 2009, each theme was inspired by music. We worked around 4 communication axes :

1. Women’s collection
2. Access to the Jaquet Droz universe
3. Men’s collection
4. Technical exception and excellency with La Machine à Ecrire le Temps

During the creation process, I always try to think “outside the box” and to focus on emotion rather than only on technical aspects. I want to challenge every precept, and I encourage my team to do the same, as I believe it is a fundamental element of creativity.

Perpetuelle: Would you please kindly highlight a couple of your favorite new models for us?

Mr. Emch:  On the occasion of Baselworld 2009, we unveiled numerous novelties but I have a preference for Les Douze Villes as this model is destined for those whose lives are characterised by the crossing of different time zones. Twelve cities, like so many possibilities for different modes of existence, lifestyles and desires… Twelve destinations, each with their own history, secrets, memories and encounters… For this timepiece, Jaquet Droz has chosen a black Grand Feu enamelled dial with its unique grain to harbour 12 destinations around the world.

Jaquet Droz Les Douze Villes

I also have a fondness for a more trendy watch: Réserve de Marche Céramique Technicolor. Five colours for a rainbow of possibilities…, An encounter between different genres this model, contemporary in spirit, possesses all of the iconic beauty of the Grande Seconde and is made of scratch-proof, resistant ceramic, whose colour and radiance will never fade.

Jaquet Droz Réserve de Marche Céramique Technicolor

Perpetuelle: What are the core strengths (and/or defining elements) of Jaquet Droz?

Mr. Emch:  Jaquet Droz is a blend of history, craftsmanship, technical know-how and design, wrapped up in exclusivity and intimacy and its core value includes all these aspects as each one contributes to translate a rich heritage into successful contemporary timepieces. “Grand feu” enamelling is one of the expert techniques that constitute the signature of a Jaquet Droz watch. Master dial-makers perform this operation entirely by hand, playing with fine powders and subjecting them to fire. They alone know the formula to produce these dials, whose colour and texture are absolutely unique.

Perpetuelle: What are you wearing now?

Mr. Emch:  I wear since 2001 the first Grande Seconde Email, which is for me the most valuable watch as it is the first model of the new design philosophy I created based on an original Jaquet Droz pocket watch of the 18th Century. This timepiece is at the very core of the brand’s identity.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Email

Perpetuelle: Are there any areas that Jaquet Droz will be focusing on for 2010 and/or beyond (for example, a focus on certain types of watches / complications / movements)?

Mr. Emch:  During Baselworld 2010, Jaquet Droz will –as usual- unveil numerous novelties. But our main novelty will be our new base movement which we should present by the end of next year. We also started building our new Manufacture in la Chaux-de-Fonds, which will be inaugurated Fall 2010.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the distribution strategy and geographical availability of Jaquet Droz timepieces.

Mr. Emch:  Jaquet Droz has 6 own flagship stores: Genève, Courchevel, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, Macao, and since December 2008 Moscow. We will open soon a new own Boutique in Hanoi (Vietnam). Moreover, Jaquet Droz is represented in a selective distribution network of 200 of the best watch retailers in 50 markets.

Perpetuelle: Can you tell us which, if any, geographies you believe will play in important role in the future growth of Jaquet Droz?

Mr. Emch:  Jaquet Droz plans to extend its retail strategy to Asia (opening of a new flagship store in Hanoi) on one side and on the other to further develop its activity in the region of Russia and the USA as there is still room for growth.

Perpetuelle: What role do you see for online media (such as Perpetuelle.com) and Jaquet Droz? How do you see this role changing/evolving in the future?

Mr. Emch:  Online media represents a great opportunity for Jaquet Droz to develop its presence worldwide. More and more, it will raise its importance and influence. The interactive forums will help us being closer to our clients or potential customers.

Perpetuelle: Thank you Mr. Emch for sharing your time and insights with Perpetuelle.com’s audience of luxury watch owners, collectors & enthusiasts.  We wish you and everyone at Montres Jaquet Droz  all the best in 2009 and beyond.