Buying Time: Rectangular Watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Cartier, Piaget and JLC

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo - Govberg for Perpetuelle

In this week’s curation of pre-owned watches from the vaults of Govberg Jewelers, we will look at watches with cases that depart from the traditional round shape.  More specifically, the watches I have today have a rectangular shape, with the exception of one watch which is of the tonneau style (two straight/two curved sides, somewhat like a barrel).   I’ve found a couple classics (a Cartier Tank Francaise and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso) as well as some watches that are well out of production and/or a bit off the beaten path of the mainstream (a Roger Dubuis Quantième Perpétuel Much More, a Piaget Protocole, and a Franck Muller Conquistador).  Overall an eclectic lineup — but when all you’ve got in common is a case shape its bound to get interesting!  Follow along as I run down this week’s Buying Time lineup.

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Carter Tank Francaise Large (Ref W510002Q3)

Asking Price: $3,750

Cartier Tank Francaise Large W51002Q3 - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Ever since I sold one I owned over a decade ago, I’ve missed it.  This Tank Française has an automatic mechanical movement inside a 36.5mm x 28.15mm x 7.45mm steel case with a steel bracelet with triple folding steel buckle.  The Roman numerals, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, date aperture at 6 o’clock and 8-sided crown set with a synthetic spinel cabochon are classic Tank.  Though not known for the pedigree of its movement, when it comes to its design I put the Tank Francaise on my all time most iconic watches list.

Offered at $3,750, complete with box & papers and with time still remaining on the factory warranty, this Cartier Tank Francaise can be yours for a couple grand off of what you would pay new. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface 270.1.54

Asking Price: $8,500

26mm x 42mm yellow gold case

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Another watch that really needs no introduction, the Reverso was originally developed for polo playing British colonial army officers in 1931.  The idea behind the Reverso was that the case could swivel in order to flip/reverse the dial over thus protecting it during play.  The watch has taken on many different forms over the last 80 or so years.  The Reverso Duo seen here hinges on (is that a pun?) using the reverse side to indicate a second time-zone and day/night indicator.  On the primary side, an engine turned silver Arabic dial with seconds sub-dial.   Both displays are linked to and powered by single caliber.

This model is no longer in production by Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it is still a complete set iwth box and papers and comes with a 15-month warranty backed by Govberg Jewlers. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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Piaget Protocole 26354

Asking Price: $6,500

44mm titanium case

Piaget Protocole watch - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Thin, formal, and simple, the Protocole is the perfect tuxedo watch and in many ways embodies what I think of when I hear the name Piaget.  Like the Reverso, the Protocole has had many different designs over the years; though Piaget still produces a Protocole jewlery line for women, the watch family is long gone.  I think, but am not 100% certain, that this watch uses a Piaget Caliber 500P.   The 500P goes way back in the long line of Piaget Calibers, representing the second generation of Piaget automatic movements (following the 12P).  The 500 series calibers went on to contain 8 unique calibers, eventually supplanted by the Caliber 800 family.

Again, this particular model is no longer offered by Piaget, but that doesn’t make it any less appealing in my book.  That it has no lugs adds to the allure of this watch.  A gentleman might not wear a watch like this every day, but he definitely wants one in his closet for those special occasions.

Nice to see that this piece still has its original box and papers, too. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 SC

Asking Price: $5,650

40mm x 56mm steel case, automatic mechanical movement

Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 SC - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

This is a simple time + date watch out of Franck Muller’s Conquistador family.  I don’t know much about this particular watch except that it is a Franck Muller and Franck Muller is of course one of the greats when it comes to independent watchmaking with a style all one’s own…”Master of Complications” as his moniker oges.  What caught my eye was the bracelet and how it flows in a diagonal manner.  That’s, well, cool if you ask me.  And for $5,650?  Seems like a steal if you are a seasoned collector who has cycled through the mainstream brands and are looking to branch out (the same can be said of the next piece, though you’ll need a bigger bank account).  More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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Roger Dubuis Much More Quantieme Perpetuel M34 57 3 9011

Asking Price: $20,750

rose gold case, automatic mechanical caliber

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual caseback - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual box set - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

How about this watch.  Talk about personality!  Though it is a bit on the pricier side, I couldn’t help but drop it in to this segment on rectangular watches.  First of all, it is an older Roger Dubuis and clearly not part of the brand’s modern day lineup.  Like Muller, Roger Dubuis the man is also a legend of sorts when it comes to big dog watchmakers of the recent modern era.  In addition this watch is perpetual calendar (“quantieme perpetuel”) with tri-letter day and month apertures and subdials for date and moonphase.  It’s even got a killer looking buckle….this piece really speaks to me.  More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>

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And that’s a wrap!  In the meantime, you are welcome to check out the previous editions of Buying Time (but fair warning, many of the watches in these articles have sold!):

Thanks as always to Govberg Jewelers and their ever changing treasure trove of great pre-owned watches. Be sure to check out their mobile app — Govberg On Time.

See you next week!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time “Métier Rare” (Ref 6063540)

Jaeger LeCoultre Duometre Unique Travel Time hand engraved - Perpetuelle

The Duomètre Unique Travel Time by Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the most user-friendly and precisely-adjustable traveller’s watches available today as far as mechanical luxury watches are concerned.  As you can tell from the decorated dial seen here, this particular model is a special version of the coveted Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch.  It puts on display a decorative hand engraving technique that results in a chiseled, granular surface.  So while this is a limited edition series of 200 pieces, each piece will essentially be a unique piece as far as the intricate hand engraved dial is concerned.

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Buying Time: 5 Time-Only Dress Watches Under $10k

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

There’s something about owning a time-only watch.  For some, the simplicity of such watches is not appealing.  But for most, an elegant and uncomplicated watch is a must have for any well-rounded collection…or the occasional black-tie event.  When it comes right down to it, the term “dress watch” is of course a highly subjective term.  Here’s the criteria with which I define it:  any watch that is simple and classical in its styling, sized between 34mm and 42mm and on the thinner side of the spectrum case-wise (I am highly partial to “ultra-thin”), elegant leather strap or bracelet, and uncomplicated save for a small seconds or date window.  Generally speaking!  Other defining criteria such as movement type (automatic or manual wind), age (vintage or new), case metal (steel or precious) are generally fungible for me when it comes to these types of watches.  But yes, defining a “dress watch” is clearly a subjective exercise!

However, in today’s edition of “Buying Time”, I think you’ll get the essence of what I’m talking about.  This week I went to great pains to select just five superb time-only dress watches, all of which are available now from the pre-owned vault of my partner in this weekly endeavor, Govberg Watches.  I’ve also taken care to select pieces all priced under $10,000 ($3,200 on the low end), and all at a meaningful discount to the current retail price for a new piece.  Certainly not play money, but as most of you know Perpetuelle is about luxury not economy, and so I hope you’ll find something that suit’s your tastes.

Follow along as I walk through this week’s lineup.

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Introducing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 London Flagship Special Edition (Ref. 278853L)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 London Green Dial Edition - Perpetuelle

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates its new London flagship boutique with a very, very limited, special edition of the Reverso Ultra Thin 1931.  The lacquered dial defines the watch — so distinguished in British racing green!  Reverso enthusiasts love a well colored dial — since 2012 JLC has introduced four such models in the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin case: a chocolate brown dial (2014), a white dial with blue indications (2014), a blue dial (2013) and a red dial (2012). All inspired by original models from the 1930s.  The green model is a welcome addition to the palette.

Click through for more pics and a look at the specially engraved caseback