As we first saw in January 2012 (thanks, Hodinkee), Audemars Piguet is launching the Royal Oak Offshore Diver in a forged carbon case with ceramic bezel this year.  This is the second model in the ROO Diver line, the first being the AP ROO Diver Ref 15703 which debuted to much acclaim in 2010.   Unchanged from the Ref 15703 are the dimensions (42mm, 13.75mm thick), mega-tapisserie dial, inner-rotating timing ring, and the AP Caliber 3120 automatic movement.  However, the yellow accents (in particular the 15-minute arc on the timing ring) and forged carbon case unquestionably breathe more life into this new piece as compared to its monotone sibling.  As for me — despite the 9-word long name and the IWC Aquatimer 2000 (Ref 356810)-like colors — I like it.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Royal Oak Forged Carbon

42mm forged carbon case, AP automatic mechanical Caliber 3120, inner rotating ring with diving scale, luminescent hour-markers and hands, rubber strap

 Wrist Shot by Jason Heaton @HODINKEE

The Audemars Piguet ROO Diver Ref 15703

For 2012 IWC is again issuing a watch in tribute of Antoine de Saint-Exupery, a French author and avid aviator.  This year is the sixth IWC Pilot’s watch to commemorate Saint-Exupery — the watch, Ref 387805,  is cased in red gold and produced in a limited edition of 500 copies.   The flyback chronograph has a beautiful tobacco-colored dial with sunburst pattern on it.  I also like how the chronograph hours and minutes are nicely contained in concentric subdials at the top of the dial.  The back of the watch is decorated with a special engraving representing the last plane of Antoine de Saint-Exupery, the Lightning P-38. July 31, 1944.   Also, it appears that IWC is individually numbering each piece — hopefully this is a broader decision by the brand to move away from the “One of XXX” format that we have seen recently on recent limited edition models from the brand (and as I have been highly critical of).    Bottom line:  a gorgeous watch!

IWC Pilot’s Watch Saint Exupery 2012 (Ref 387805)

43mm rose gold case (15mm thick), automatic mechanical IWC manufacture caliber 89361, tobacco-colored dial and calfskin strap

First Look…

On March 24th, boxing legend Muhammad Ali will participate in the annual Celebrity Fight Night even. This year, IWC is proud to support the occasion with a special edition watch paying tribute to Muhammad Ali. This IWC Big Pilot’s Watch “Muhammad Ali” is a one-of-a-kind piece made of white gold, and featuring unique hand and appliqués coloring with the use of signal-red superluminova. Note also the red color on the inside of the black alligator leather strap — symbolic with the color of boxing gloves. The case back shows the signature of Muhammad Ali with the engraving “Edition Muhammad Ali, ONE OUT OF ONE.” All proceeds to charity.

March 26 Update:   The live auction for IWC’s Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Muhammad Ali in white gold attracted an impressive winning bid of USD 60,000.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch “Muhammad Ali”

unique piece

About Celebrity Fight Night

In 1994, long-time Arizona resident and businessman, Jimmy Walker founded Celebrity Fight Night in hopes of raising money for local charities through a premier event. Each year, Celebrity Fight Night attracts firstclass celebrities from the sports and entertainment worlds. Recognized as one of the nation’s elite charity events, this power-packed evening leaves a lasting
impression on attendees and provides significant dollars for various charities. In 17 years, Celebrity Fight
Night has raised more than $70 million.

Celebrity Fight Night is a star-studded evening presented in honor of featured guest, Muhammad Ali, who will be celebrating his 70th birthday in 2012. Celebrities and professional athletes from all over the U.S. unite for an action-packed night filled with incredible live auction items and musical performances by many of today’s brightest stars. Celebrating its 18th year, the Celebrity Fight Night gala is held to raise money for charities.

2012 performers: Celebrity Fight Night is proud to announce Grammy Award-winning leading lady of country music Reba McEntire will return as the evening’s emcee for the seventh year. Grammy winner Lionel Richie is confirmed to perform, as well as Jackie Evancho, Miley Cyrus and Sinbad. There are many more performers to be announced soon. In addition, 16-time Grammy Award-winning songwriter and producer, David Foster, will serve as Musical Director for his 13th year.

IWC has dubbed 2012 the “Year of the High Flyers. ” Accordingly, we have seen several changes and additions to their Pilot’s collection, most prominently the the Miramar Top Gun watches (Big Pilot’s watch TOP GUN Miramar and Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar).  In addition, we see the release of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN, shown here.  IWC’s Perpetual Calendar is a perennial favorite amongst fans of the brand, and the TOP GUN models have been in the lineup since 2007, so this is a nice coming together of the two.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN combines the classic instrument look with the sport-inspired design of the TOP GUN line, and the timepiece features a wealth of complex technological features including perpetual calendar with four-digit year display together with date, day and month displays as well as a moon phase display.  All the displays are easily adjusted via the large onion crown.  Certainly this timepiece is one of the most complex pilot’s watches ever built, and I really like the look.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perptual Calendar “Top Gun” (Ref. 502902)

48mm ceramic case, titanium “onion” style crown, automatic mechanical IWC manufacture 51614 calibre, on black soft strap

The new IWC TOP GUN Miramar line features a polished ceramic case, hands and chapter ring in beige, and green textile strap was inspired by the colour and material range typically favoured by the military.  Thanks to the 51111 calibre, the largest manufactured in-house by IWC, the watch will continue running for a week when fully wound. The sapphire glass is secured against drops in pressure in the cockpit….interesting.  Like the Miramar Top Gun Chronograph, I find the dial to be a bit funky — the unconventional division of the dial into an external chapter ring and an inner hour circle is a reference to the deck watches of the 1930s and 40s, and thus the historic legacy of IWC Pilot’s Watches.  I will definitely take this watch over the chronograph version.  Love that big onion crown!

IWC Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Miramar

48mm ceramic/titanium case (15mm thick), automatic mechanical IWC 51111 movement

The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer shows current local time and can be advanced or turned back in one-hour steps to show the new local time, even when crossing the International Date Line.  The 24-hour ring makes it easy to read off all 24 time zones.  If the wearer passes through one or several time zones, the time can be adjusted forwards or backwards in one-hour steps via the crown to show the new local time, even when crossing the International Date Line. The date simply moves in sync with the jumping hour hand. Once set correctly using the crown, the black-and-white 24-hour ring encircling the dial enables the wearer to read off the time in all 24 time zones.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer (Ref. 3262)

45mm steel case (13.5mm thick), automatic mechanical caliber, date, hacking seconds, worldtime

The 23 place names on the external city ring each represent a time zone, and standard time is centred below the name of the city. In the illustration, the dial shows local time as 10:10. The 24-hour ring displays the current UTC time in London, where it is 18:10, while the time in New York is 13:10. In cities on daylight saving time, the time can be read below the dot linked to the city name with a line. If local time is changed on the dial, the time shown by the 24-hour ring remains unaffected and the movement continues to run during the changeover.

Though SIHH 2012 is just weeks away I still have a few special watch previews to share.  For IWC, 2012 will be all about its “Pilot’s watch” collection, following 2011 being the year of the Portofino.  Thus, here is the new IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Top Gun Miramar” edition, one of five new Pilot’s watches we can expect to see from IWC for 2012.   The IWC Top Gun Miramar watch is a tribute to the place in California where the myth of the elite pilot (the “Top Gun”) was born.

This watch features a sleek looking dark grey ceramic case (48mm in diameter — pilot worthy, but far too large for me), and a somewhat vintage-military color set, including the green textile strap.  My first impression is ho-hum.  I guess it is that the colors on the dial do not work for me.  IWC claims this is by design for reasons of providing increasing focus on the hours and minutes ( camouflage-like beige minute markers and hands) rather than the hours (red, inner-ring).   I’m not a fan of the “3-date” window, either.  Ah well, there will be more to talk about, including a new Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer….stay tuned in to Perpetuelle.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Miramar (Ref. 5019)

48mm ceramic case, IWC cal. 89365 flyback chronograph movement, green textile strap

titanium caseback:

And of course who can forget TOP GUN, the 1986 movie starring Tom Cruise, Kelly McGillis, and Val Kilmer  – my association, not IWC’s

Perpetuelle SIHH 2012 Previews >>> Ralph Lauren Slim Classique, Richard Mille RM037, A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down Watch, Cartier Skeleton Pocket Watch, Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater, Baume & Mercier Capeland Flyback Chronograph,  Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Watch, Panerai PAM 422, Girard-Perregaux 1966 Small Second, Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Automatic, Cartier Cadran Lové Tourbillon

Here’s a one-off special edition of IWC’s popular new Portguese Yacht Club model.  The launch of this watch coincides with the official start of the Volvo Ocean Race 2011-2012, an exciting around-the-world race covering over 39,000 miles through some of the world’s most treacherous waters.  Compared the new-original Yacht Club (see the Portuguese Yacht Club, introduced 2010, HERE), this watch features a few things of note:  first, it is the first IWC Portuguese Yacht Club with a titanium case, and second, it has a black carbon fiber dial.  As for me, I find this watch to be so-so as I am not a big fan of the style/shape of the chronograph pushers on the Ref. 3902.  Maybe sailing fans see it differently, though.  How about you?

IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph (Volvo Ocean Race Edition)

Ref. IW390212

45mm titanium case (14.5mm thick), carbon black dial, automatic mechanical IWC caliber 89361, flyback chronograph, small hacking seconds, black rubber strap

theme shot:

WOW Watch…

Quick first look at the new IWC Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium watch (Ref. 3765).  Most intriguing about this new double chronograph is the choice of metal — titanium.  Apart from a few simple models in the 1980′s and 90′s, IWC notes that titanium was used exclusively in the Mercedes AMG Series — stainless steel has been the metal of choice for the Ingenieur.  Accordingly, the IWC Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium weighs in at a scant 130 grams, a real featherweight when compared to the Ingenieur Mission Earth at 245 grams (including steel bracelet), for example.  The new Ref. 3765 brings to the Ingenieur for the first time a split-seconds chronograph (aka a “rattrapante”) as well as a few other design tweaks.  Also, the antimagnetic soft-iron inner case is also absent from this model.  The overall look of the watch is 100% awesome, and I expect that this watch will be a real object of desire for hard-core IWC collectors and armchair watch enthusiasts alike.  IWC Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium price is $12,700.

IWC Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium (Ref. 3765)

45mm titanium case (16mm thick), blue chrono counters, vulcanized pushers, automatic mechanical IWC Caliber 79230

Note that the five bore holes around the edge of the case now feature black DLC-finished screws — this substantially enhances the technical appearance of the watch

via:  Watch International (IWC’s in-house print/electronic magazine)

IWC Schaffhausen is commemorating British adventurer David de Rothschild’s successful Plastiki Expedition (i.e. the water-bottle boat)  with an addition to the Ingenieur watch family:  a limited edition Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth, Edition “Plastiki”.  It is a great looking watch with nice blue/white/gray color scheme, but there is one drawback on this watch which I present with a question — why oh why oh why does IWC insist upon its “One out of ####” notation on its special edition pieces?  Can somebody give me a coherent explanation as to why I as a Buyer should like this over an individually numbered piece?  I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again — it seems to me that by not individually numbering these pieces IWC has a bad case of laziness.  Judging by the comments on the similarly stamped Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar I highlighted yesterday, I’m not the only one who feels this way.

IWC Ingenieur Mission Earth “Plastiki” Edition (Ref. IW3236PL)

Limited Edition 1,000 pieces (“One out of 1000″ stamp on case)

46mm stainless steel case, soft-iron inner case (antimagnetic), automatic mechanical IWC Caliber 80110; fitted on a blue rubber strap

the case back engraving commemorates the “Plastiki” expedition and depicts the catamaran and its sea route from San Francisco to Sydney:

Did You Know?

The Plastiki Expedition:  The “Plastiki” expedition made environmental history. Weighing 12 tons and held afloat by 12,500 reclaimed plastic bottles, the catamaran sailed from San Francisco to Sydney on a mission to draw global attention to the health of our oceans, in particular the colossal amounts of plastic waste choking the waves. A remarkable man full of bright ideas, David is a lateral thinker and, by passionate conviction, an environmental pioneer. He and his team undertook the project as a practical realization of their vision of a society that views waste as a resource. The Swiss watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen backed the adventure as official partner, endorsing its efforts to draw attention to the untold quantities of plastic waste that litter our oceans. This partnership is celebrated with the Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Plastiki”, Refer- ence 3236, which is limited to 1,000 timepieces.