This year Harry Winston is introduces Project Z8, the latest model from its innovative “Project Z” series which showcases the House’s pioneering use of Zalium alloy (as I chronicle below “The Story of Harry Winston Project Z“).
Histoire de Tourbillon 5 is the first in the series to be crafted in rose gold. This variation continues in the open-worked movement, which is black instead of the conventional grey.
Building on the technical challenges introduced throughout the series – from Histoire de Tourbillon 1, which explores the movement and sculpture of the complication, to Histoire de Tourbillon 4, which seeks the next level of precision and performance with a tri-axial tourbillon – Harry Winston has decided to, for the first time, fully reveal the exceptional mechanism behind the tourbillon.
Limited Edition of 20 pieces
Movement: mechanical, manual-winding, 381 components, 57 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 50 hours power reserve
Internal carriage Internal carriage containing the balance spring and the escapement pinion rotating cycle of 45 seconds
Intermediate carriage rotating cycle of 75 seconds
External carriage rotating cycle of 300 seconds
Material: 18K rose gold.
Case dimensions: Diameter: 47 mm Height: 21.7 mm
The Harry Winston Ocean Collection introduces, for the first time, a combination of two sophisticated complications in a single timepiece: the Harry Winston Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour. The Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour boasts uncommon but compelling design, both in its tourbillon and its jump hour features. We’ll take a closer look, below.
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As you do every year, you were waiting for this one, and here it is: Harry Winston Opus XIII. And yes, it is as crazy as it looks. The Opus XIII has only one thing in common with any other watch and that is its balance and escapement; the rest of the mechanism is the brainchild of independent watchmaker Ludovic Ballouard. Honestly it is next to impossible to understand this watch just by looking at it — be sure to watch the video below to help you out.
Opus XIII once again defies the conventional rules of watchmaking. Fifty-nine pivoting minutes hands, eleven rotating triangles for the hours, and a sliding trapdoor perform a magic show where minutes and hours appear or vanish instantly — and, of course, tell the time. Harry Winston believes nothing in watchmaking is beyond human ingenuity, and Opus XIII invariably proves it right.
Harry Winston Opus XIII
in collaboration with Ludovic Ballouard
Limited Edition 130 Pieces
44.25mm x 13.6mm white gold case.
Instantaneous hours and minutes; Cumulative display of minutes via a peripheral, jumping retrograde system with fifty-nine hands; Successive display of hours via a peripheral, jumping system with eleven hands; Sliding shutter revealing the “HW” logo every twelve hours
Minutes accumulate around a track, each five minutes in red, withdrawing in unison when they complete the circle of the hour. Silver triangles spring in turn from a faceted dome to show the hours, rotating back when their duty’s done. Every twelve hours, Harry Winston’s logo is revealed on the dial, only to vanish sixty minutes later.
The fifty-nine minutes hands pivot on a ring of as many steel shafts, each held between two ruby bearings, bringing the number of jewels in the timepiece to 242. No other timepiece ever made has as many functional jewels. The ruby ball bearings for the sliding shutter are so tiny that the package had to be opened in a non-static environment lest they fly off.
Beneath a smoked sapphire crystal you catch a glimpse of what looks like the fan of a jet engine. This is an extraordinary component, comprising fifty-nine jumper springs — one for each minutes hand — carved from a single piece of steel using LIGA technology (lithography, electroplating and molding).
How It Works
The display is produced by two separate power sources working as a team. One mainspring barrel drives the escapement through the going train and keeps the balance swinging at a steady 21’600 vibrations an hour. The other barrel provides the energy for the display of minutes, triggered every 60 seconds by the center wheel of the going train.
The key element is an outer minutes ring driven by the second barrel. Every minute, it jumps forward a step, released then locked by a rocking lever with two pallet stones, controlled by a cam working off the center wheel. A peg on the advancing ring flips each minutes hand forty degrees in turn, revealing them in succession around the dial. At the end of the 59th minute, a second outer ring comes into play, its crenelated rim simultaneously rotating the fifty-nine minutes hands back into their hiding places.
The mechanism for the hours is no less ingenious. Here again it relies on an outer ring that jumps forward every sixty minutes, turning the triangle of the old hour 180° so that it disappears beneath the faceted dome on the dial, and simultaneously turning up the next hour. At the heart of this mechanism is a snail cam that rotates once an hour. A lever drops off the edge of the cam, pulling a rack to turn a pinion that advances the hours ring. At the 12th hour, instead of turning up a triangular hour hand, the hours ring rotates a wheel attached to a connecting rod that pulls open a sliding shutter to reveal the Harry Winston logo in the center of the faceted dome.
Both mainspring barrels are wound by turning the crown back and forth. A rocking pinion engages the barrel for the going train when the crown is turned in one direction and shifts over to engage the other barrel when the crown is turned in the opposite direction. Similarly, when setting the time, the crown is pulled out and turned one way to advance the minutes and the other to advance the hours.
All of this packaged in a modest 44.25mm x 13.6mm white gold case, Harry Winston style.
by Kyle Stults on February 22, 2013
Baselworld 2013 preview…tri-axial tourbillon
***UPDATE: Tourbillon in Motion — VIDEO added***
Here’s a first look at Harry Winston’s latest “Histoire de Tourbillon”, the fourth such piece in a series that began in 2009. This main feature of the watch is an interesting tri-axial tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock — envision a tourbillon cage fitted inside a tourbillon cage fitted inside a tourbillon cage, each rotating at different rates per minute (more on this below, and sorry, no video yet). The Histoire de Tourbillon 4 will be limited to just 20 pieces. Follow along below as I run down the various highlights of this new piece from Harry Winston. I will also show you a quick look back the Histoire de Tourbillon 1, 2 and 3 as well.
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Another pair of new references from Harry Winston, these from the brand’s typically more elegant and reserved collection, the Midnight Collection. However while these references maintain key elements of the brand’s unmistakable style (note the signature HW arches at 3 and 9 o’clock), the usual reserved look of the Midnight Collection is replaced here with an open-worked flair. That is, the Midnight Skeleton takes the fundamental essence of the Midnight Collection and transforms it into something more visually striking through the use of a skeletonized dial. The skeleton dial is of a more contemporary flavor, and one can visualize a sort of “spiral” effect which moves counterclockwise around the dial, around the gear train.
18k white or rose gold case, black or brown alligator strap: $44,200.
18K white gold (ref. 450/MAS42RL.W)
Available in a 42mm case of white or rose gold, the watch fairly thin at 7.5mm — helped in large part by an automatic mechanical movement with a micro-rotor.
18K rose gold (ref. 450/MAS42RL.W)
by Kyle Stults on October 19, 2012
October 17, 2012 — Reuters reports:
Harry Winston Diamond Corp is looking to sell its watch and jewellery business to concentrate on mining, and has been approaching potential buyers, a source close to the matter said.
….As always when this type of activity hits the market, the big names in luxury, like LVMH and PPR, figure prominently among potential acquirers.
RBC Capital Markets analyst Irene Nattel, quoted in the article, sees Harry Winston’s luxury brand alone worth some $1.2 billion, net of debt.
This was confirmed in a statement released by Harry Winston yesterday:
“In response to recent media reports, Harry Winston Diamond Corporation today announced that while it is the company’s general policy not to comment on market rumours, it confirms that it has received various indications of interest regarding a potential purchase of its luxury brand segment. It is not in active negotiations regarding any such transaction.”
44mm Zalium™ case with DLC finish (11.7mm thick),
Photo: Mike Mellia
When I showed you the new Harry Winston Ocean Triple Retrograde chronographs a couple days ago, I neglected to mention that there was more to come! So here we go again, this time a look at the new Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time Black Edition. This watch was first shown at Baselworld 2012 earlier this year and is now avaliable (price around $30k). The Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time was originally developed off of Harry Winston’s fourth Project Zalium (‘Project Z”) collection (pictured below) which launched as a 100 piece limited edition in 2004, and it was awarded Best Men’s Timepiece of the Year at the 2008 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Asia. With that proud lineage in mind, I’ll take you through the new Harry Winston Ocean Dual Time “Black Edition”, on the jump>>>
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DLC-Zalium (ref. 400/MCRA44ZKL.S) see through dial
DLC-Zalium (ref. 400/MCRA44ZKC.A1)
Here’s a first look at several new references of Harry Winston’s Ocean Triple Retrograde Chronograph model. I’m not sure when this model was first introduced, but right now there are only three references offered on the HW website. As the name says — there are three retograde chrono counters on this watch — not an easily achieved feat! These new reference are in Harry Winston’s “Zalium” metal case (black DLC-finish) for a more sporty look, or more luxurious versions in pink, yellow or or white gold. All watches are 44mm case size, with automatic mechanical movement. There are a variety of different dial finishes — mostly a mix of satin and guilloche finishes. Prices here will be around $35k in Zalium case and $48k in the golds.
If there are any specific models for which you’d like to see a close-up of, just drop a comment and I’ll be glad to update the post and add a high-res close-up. Check them all out, on the jump Read the rest of this entry »
Harry Winston’s Opus 12, created in partnership with Emmanual Bouchet, has clearly been one of the attention-grabbers at Baselworld 2012. In my first look at the Opus 12, I shared video as well as discussion of how the piece works. Now I just want to revisit the piece with some press photos provided by Harry Winston. I will also again point out some of the salient features of the watch, but if this is the first you have seen this watch, I do recommend that you visit my “Opus 12 first look and overveiw” for more details on how the watch works.
Harry Winston Opus 12 by Emmanuel Bouchet
limited edition 120 pieces
46mm polished white gold case (Zalium mid-section),manual-wind mechanical movement (607 parts, 2 barrels, 24 hands, 45 hr power reserve), on black alligator strap with white gold buckle
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