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Glashütte Original PanoReserve

Kyle Stults — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 21:30:03 +0000

Baselworld 2012: More Glashütte Original “Pano” collection….the new PanoReserve presents a stylish and sophisticated interpretation of the signature asymmetric Pano dial visuals. A red gold edition with a silver dial takes optimal advantage of the larger case and slimmer bezel to unveil the strictly minimalist approach. The off-centre hour/minute display features faceted red gold hands and applied red gold hour indexes framing a finely drawn subsidiary seconds dial. Glashütte Original’s characteristic Panorama Date display takes its place on the warm silver dial just below 4 o’clock as the connoisseur’s eye is drawn to the elegant, stripped-down power reserve display. The Panorama Date and power reserve are labeled in German, a subtle indication of the Saxon manufactory’s role as rightful heir to more than 165 years of fine mechanical watchmaking in Glashütte. Two PanoReserves present the new visuals framed in polished and satin brushed stainless steel. One features a warm silver dial with blued hands and applied hour indexes on the hour/minutes dial, a black-on-white Panorama Date display and the simply compelling power reserve (Auf/Ab) with blued steel indicator. The second variation in stainless steel presents a grey ruthenium dial with white gold hands, applied nickel hour indexes and an impressive white-on-grey Panorama Date below the power reserve.

Glashütte Original PanoReserve

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar

Kyle Stults — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 20:58:29 +0000

Baselworld 2012: Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar — a new design from the high-end German watchmaker. When I mentioned earlierthat the 2012 Glashütte Original collection is phenomenal — specifically, it was the new “Pano” pieces that jumped out at me first. Among the newly designed Pano editions debuting at Baselworld 2012 are three new versions of the PanoMaticLunar. The new models feature a larger case, dial (and slightly thinner bezel) presenting the classic elements of the originals – the off-centre hour/minutes and subsidiary seconds dials – while subtly enhancing spatial composition, detail and finishings to create a distinctly contemporary look and feel. It all looks and feels very balanced, despite the asymmetrical layout. Perhaps because the placement of the dials has been determined in accordance with the divine proportion, otherwise known as the golden ratio, the legendary law of aesthetic harmony. Twelve years on, the Pano remains as exquisite as ever — I love it!

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar

automatic mechanical GO manufacture Caliber 90-02

white dials / steel:

grey dials / steel:

white dials / rose gold:

Glashütte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon

Kyle Stults — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 16:00:36 +0000

hBaselworld 2012: Glashütte Original’s lineup this year is simply phenomenal, across the board. Here is a quick look at ~~their most complicated piece this year~~ the most sophisticated masterpiece in the history of the company — the beautiful and sophisticated Glashütte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon. In short, this exquisitely complicated wonder enables the world traveller to track the time of day or night at home and on the road simultaneously, in any two of 37 world time zones, while accounting correctly for Daylight Saving (DST) or Standard Time (STD) and for travel forward in time (to the East) or back in time (to the West). All destination time and date changes made by the wearer are displayed by a Perpetual Calendar geared to register changes in both directions, forwards and backwards in time. GO claims that the unique combination of complications in this watch represent a world first in mechanical watches. It was, after all, the the master watchmaker Alfred Helwig of Glashütte who developed the Flying Minute Tourbillon in 1920. More details, and many more looks….read on…

Glashütte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon

limited edition 25 pieces

48mm platinum case, manual wind Glashütte Original manufactory Calibre 89-01 (500+ components, Glashütte ribbing, screw-mounted gold chatons, winding wheels and the 72- hour power reserve display), fitted on black alligator strap with fold-over platinum clasp

The Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon is designed for the world traveller who wishes to keep track of both the home time and the destination time while travelling. The home time remains an unchanging point of reference and is presented at 6 o’clock on a dedicated 24-hour dial with a day/night indicator. The destination time appears at the centre of the main dial and tracks the local time at a given location away from home. To begin using this exceptional timepiece, the owner first sets the hour and minute of the home time, which is followed by the synchronization of the home and destination times.

When selecting the home time, the owner sets the time zone governing his or her usual place of residence, selecting it from among 37 different world time zones on the city ring, including those that respect 30-minute (e.g. Delhi) and 45-minute offsets (e.g. Eucla), and then adjusts for Standard Time (STD) or Daylight Saving Time (DST). The time zones on the city ring are indicated using three-letter IATA codes (international airport codes, e.g. FRA for Frankfurt am Main, LAX for Los Angeles International, DXB for Dubai, etc.) and are displayed in two small windows at 8 o’clock on the dial, one dedicated to Standard Time (STD), the other to Daylight Saving Time (DST). The owner then sets the Perpetual Calendar to reflect the current weekday, date, month and (leap) year.

If heading East (forwards in time), the traveller turns the crown positioned at 2 o’clock clockwise; if travelling West (back in time), the crown is turned counter-clockwise. If the destination time is ahead or back a day, up to 5 displays of the Perpetual Calendar change accordingly.

The ingenious time machine can handle even a change from March 1st to February 29th or 28th, with no additional manual intervention required. It is an absolutely extraordinary combination of hand-crafted complications – an astonishing achievement, and a world first for mechanical watches. This exquisite set of display is put on show on a silver-grained, massive 18 karat gold dial and is framed by milled black Roman numerals and a railroad chapter ring.

As you see here, the case back is protected by a platinum “hunter” case fitted with a graphic presenting 37 time zones, each represented by a three-letter IATA airport code.

As befits this extraordinary example of the art of making watches at Glashütte Original, this grand complication masterpiece is presented in a finely crafted presentation case made of peat bog oak. A stainless steel globe presides over the case, which displays along its sides a series of maps evocative of past and present adventures of discovery around the world. When the exclusive timepiece is placed inside the case, an integrated winding mechanism ensures that the Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon remains wound running at all times.

Baselworld 2012: Glashütte Original Senator Observer Julius Assmann 1911

Kyle Stults — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 06:06:44 +0000

UPDATE: clarify–there are actually 3 variations of this watch being produced: 1) the Assman/Amundsen limited edition I previewed last December, 2) the grey dial you see below, and 3) a white-dialed version of the same watch very similar to the Assmann/Amundsen LE

A modest pre-Basel teaser from one of my favorite brands, “made in Germany” Glashütte Original. I say modest because this is not a “new” model, per se, but rather a new dial color for the Senator Observer Julius Assmann 1911 (Roald Amundsen tribute) which I already reported on this past December. In all fairness, though, both models are making their official debut at Baselworld 2012 and are nice looking watches — so let’s give them their due appreciation. Now, in contrast to the silver-dialed Roald Amundsen tribute watch (click over and read the full story on this — it’s quite interesting), today’s model features a lacquered grey grained dial. This effect (as you can see in the close-ups below), is built up slowly from three separate layers of lacquer, resulting in finely textured, grained surface. Glashütte Original’s compelling panorama date — the only “big date” where both date wheels are on the same level — display features prominently at 6 o’clock. Nicely attention to detail on the date window with the white numerals on black background, as my watch friend Frank @Monochrome pointed out earlier today. Can’t wait to see what else is in the GO lineup for 2012!

Glashütte Original Senator Observer Julius Assmann 1911

44mm polished steel case, automatic mechanical manufacture Caliber 100-14, available on alligator strap or “vintage” brown calfskin (both shown below)

definitely looks better on the gator strap (left)

Glashütte Original Senator Observer 1911

Kyle Stults — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 21:09:07 +0000

Today I have a special new limited edition piece from Glashütte Original. This exceptional timepiece, handmade in the firm’s manufactory and limited to 25 pieces, pays homage to the pioneering spirit of two extraordinary men, Julius Assmann and Roald Amundsen. Now, while paying homage to Julius Assmann is not surprising given that he is revered today as one of the founding fathers of watchmaking in Glashütte, I admit that seing the name Roald Amundsen tied to Glashütte Original definitely got my attention. After all, what could Amundsen — the famed Norweigan explorer who was first man to reach both the South Pole and the North Pole (among many other extreme exploration feats), Amundsen — have to do with Glashütte? Turns out there is a story here, and I’ll let the folks from Glashütte Original tell it to you, after the jump…

Before setting out on his historic voyage to the South Pole, Roald Amundsen acquired a number of Assmann observation watches, including one crafted by the young Glashütte watchmaker Paul Löwe in 1907/08. Löwe’s watch proved to be exceptionally precise, and he was urged to send it for testing to the German Naval Observatory in Hamburg, the institute officially responsible for testing and certifying the accuracy of navigational timekeepers made in Germany. It was there that Roald Amundsen saw the watch, and he purchased it in 1910. Shortly thereafter, on December 14th, 1911, the Norwegian polar explorer and his team became the first persons ever to reach the geographic South Pole.

Observation watches, also known as “deck watches” were used by navigation officers in conjunction with marine chronometers and other instruments to determine as precisely as possible a ship’s position at sea, and Amundsen will have made good use of his observation watches during his voyage to Antarctica on the polar ship, Fram.

Once he and his team set out from their base camp at Framheim on the Bay of Whales, however, the time kept by his observation watches became the only standard: one watch was set to a home time and assumed the function of the marine chronometer on a ship; a second watch was set to local time; measurement of the difference between the two was used to calculate, using spherical trigonometry, the team’s position during the trek to the South Pole; a compass and sextant were also used.

Thus, Amundsen’s observation watches were absolutely critical to his mission: without them, he could never have reached his destination, much less claimed victory for Norway. In Oslo today, the Fram Museum displays, along with many other artifacts documenting the historic trek, one of Amundsen’s Glashütte observation watches, complete with the inscription “J. Assmann – Glashütte” on the dial. Observation watches continued to be manufactured in Glashütte until 1971, a testament to the ongoing production of high quality timepieces even during challenging times.

Fast forward to today — the splendid timepiece you see here is presented in a limited edition of 25 pieces, bears the name “Senator Observer”, in honour of Julius Assmann’s observation watches and Amundsen’s achievement in reaching the South Pole. The Senator Observer 1911’s lacquered silver-grain dial is built up slowly from three separate layers of white lacquer, the third of which features a finely textured, silver-grain surface. The dial presents subsidiary seconds and power reserve displays at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively; Glashütte Original’s characteristic panorama date display at 6 o’clock; and blued and polished sweep minute and pear-shaped hour hands. A milled railroad chapter ring frames the black Arabic numerals.

The Senator Observer Limited Edition 1911 – Julius Assmann features a cylindrical case fashioned in white gold, complemented by a brown calfskin strap evocative of the age of pioneering adventurers and explorers epitomized by Amundsen.

The case back, engraved with the limited edition number (01/25), frames an antireflective sapphire crystal bearing the dates of Amundsen’s arrival at the South Pole and its centennial anniversary: 14 Dec. 1911 – 14 Dec 2011; the name Julius Assmann – Glashütte i/SA, and “Tribute to R. Amundsen”.

At the heart of the Senator Observer 1911 – Julius Assmann is the automatic caliber 100-14, an exquisitely finished self-winding movement. Traditional observation watches used hand-wound movements; Glashuette Original has chosen to outfit the Senator Observer 1911 – Julius Assmann with a contemporary automatic movement from our manufactory to maximize comfort for the wearer. Thus, the ‘Ab Auf’ indicator on the dial represents a true power reserve, rather than a simple indication of running time.

The base movement is outfitted with a reset mechanism, which makes for easier synchronization of the second hand with standard time. In contrast to other reset mechanisms, the second hand is not coupled with the winding stem or the crown. This results in the balance continuing to oscillate and the movement continuing to run despite the crown being pulled out, which considerably reduces wear and tear on materials. The reset mechanism is activated by pushing a separate corrector.

A bi-directional winding rotor delivers energy to a patented, stepped reduction gear, and then to two smaller, serially operating spring barrels. Large amounts of energy are transmitted to the mainspring, and the spring barrel is filled quickly.

Visible through the sapphire case back, the Caliber 100-14 is a fitting tribute to Julius Assmann. The movement features the characteristic Glashütte three-quarter plate, screw-mounted gold chatons, and a rotor with 21-carat gold oscillating weight and the gold-plated double-G mark that distinguishes high end mechanical watches from Glashütte Original.

Glashütte Original Senator Navigator Worldview

Kyle Stults — Tue, 26 Apr 2011 14:50:45 +0000

At Baselworld this year, Glashütte Original introduced a new model in its “Senator Navigator” collection — the Glashütte Original Senator Navigator Worldview. My initial reaction to this watch was not one of great excitement, but as I have revisited it again and again over the last few weeks, the watch makes more sense to me and I am warming up to it. After all, adding a “world time” function to a “Navigator” watch makes perfect sense, doesn’t it? And, it is also easy to see that the core DNA of the watch remains wholly intact, which is a good thing, because the original Senator Navigator (Panorama Date) is such a great watch (in fact it would still be my preference of the two). But if you are looking for a slightly different take on a “world time” watch (as opposed to something like this Breguet or this Vacheron or this Jaeger-LeCoultre or this BALL), then this German-made timekeeper is worth considering. The Glashütte Original Senator Navigator Worldview price is $11,500 (7850 EUR) and will be available later this year.

Glashütte Original Senator Navigator Worldview

44mm stainless steel case, “panorama date”, luminous hour markers, inner-rotating Worldtimer city-ring, automatic mechanical GO Caliber 39-47 (display back)

The finishing on all Glashütte Original watches is of excellent quality — with a beautiful skeletonized rotor with 21K gold oscillation weight, swan-neck fine adjustment, and Glashütte three-quarter plate “Geneva” (Glashütte?) striping (if you want a closer look at these details, check the Senator Automatic I reviewed last year). And of course all Glashutte’s movements are “in-house” which is especially meaningful because it means “Made in Germany” as opposed to “Swiss Made”.

Partial Lume Shot

Glashütte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar

Kyle Stults — Tue, 29 Mar 2011 16:13:41 +0000

Baselworld 2011 – One of my favorite brands, Glashütte Original (pronounced: glass-shoo-ta) released a very nice and legible Perpetual Calendar in its flagship Senator collection. The reference 100-02-25-05-04 (or -05, depending on choice of strap) features a red gold case which pairs nicely against the black-dial with white Arabic numerals. The moon phase disc also fits onto the dial nicely and is adorned with silver stars and a radiant silver moon. A discreet leap year display presents a red dot to indicate a leap year, followed by white, black and yellow dots for successive years.

I’d be curious to hear any thoughts on the look of this watch on the black rubber strap, as pictured below.

Glashütte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar

42mm rose gold case

The heart of the Senator Perpetual Calendar, easily visible through the sapphire glass mounted in the case back, is the Glashütte Original Caliber 100-02. The Cal 100-02 has signature Glashütte touches such as the three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing, the skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, twin spring barrels and swan-neck fine adjustment.

Glashütte Original is also quick to point out that this particular model is equipped with a reset mechanism which allows for easy synchronization of the second hand with a time standard — unlike other reset mechanisms, the second hand is connected neither to the winding stem nor the crown. As a result, when the crown is pulled out, the balance remains in oscillation and the movement continues to run, significantly reducing material stress. Pressing a separate button on the side of the case at 8 o’clock activates the reset mechanism.

Baselworld 2011: Glashütte Original Panorama Date Seventies

Kyle Stults — Thu, 17 Feb 2011 15:26:47 +0000

Groovy, man!

You are in luck today as I have scooped a couple looks at another new 2011 model from Glashütte Original. The new watch is currently presented exclusively as a Basel preview in Berlin at the 61^st Berlinale where Glashütte Original is the co-sponsor for the first time this year. Details are scant at the moment, but as you can see (and as the name implies) the watch takes its design cues from the 1970′s. I also know that the sunburst dial will come in color variations – black (picture below), silver, and blue. Stay tuned.

Glashütte Original Panorama Date Seventies

And here’s a look at the beautiful folding clasp with “Double G” engraving:

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Baselworld 2011: Glashutte Original Senator Diary Watch

Kyle Stults — Fri, 11 Feb 2011 16:42:55 +0000

New color combo…

Elite “Made in Germany” watch brand Glashütte Original gives us a sneak peak of what is to come at Baselworld 2011 (March 2011). Unfortunately it is not a “new” model — but I’ll still take it The Glashutte Senator Diary made its world debut at Baselworld last year, and the watch seems to have been well received by Glashütte enthusiasts. Thus is makes sense this year to see Glashütte presenting the Senator Diary in a new, white gold version with a charcoal grey dial and matching grey Nubuk leather strap. This new color scheme looks great. The technical accomplishment of this watch is its mechanical alarm function that can be set up to 30 days in advance. Practical? Maybe. Horologically impressive? Definitely (the diary appointment module alone consists of 340 components). The price of this new Senator Diary will likely be in the $15,000-$20,000 range, which is about par for the course a brand as prestigious as Glashütte.

Glashutte Original Senator Diary 2011

42mm white gold case, Glashütte Original manufacture Caliber 100-13, comes on an integrated Louisiana alligator Nubuk leather strap

close-up look at the calendar alarm sub-dial:

As an aside, I do wonder if this new color combination is at all related to last year’s intro of a similarly colored Glashutte Panoinverse XL, which was also lauded by renowned watch world opinion makers, **ahem**, myself and my good friends at Hodinkee. As I discussed here, the original Panoinverse XL, while technically admirable, was not the most eye-pleasing, but the color scheme introduced in 2010 really made the concept work. Is Glashütte making a similar move with the new Senator Diary?

One final note — Your loyal Editors (Sir James Bond and myself) are getting our Baselworld 2011 Forum fired up and ready to go. Pre-releases are coming in as we speak, so be sure to keep an eye on it between now and March 24 when Baselworld 2011 begins.

Click here to view Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2011 News Feed.

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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Marine Chronometer Set

Kyle Stults — Sun, 17 Oct 2010 19:45:48 +0000

“Made in Germany” Glashütte Original recently announced that it will be producing a special platinum version of its exceptional Senator Chronometer watch, a model that I first wrote about this time last year. The watch will be limited to 13 pieces, each of which is paired with a marine chronometer that was recovered and restored by Glashütte master watchmakers. It looks like a fantastic collector’s set, particularly if you are a fan of Glashütte Original like I am (a proud owner of a Senator Navigator Automatic — check out my review if interested). Price for the set may be close to $50,000 (the ‘standard’ Senator Chronometer watch alone lists for $28,000).

Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Platinum

Limited Edition of 13 (numbered on the dial), 42mm platinum case (12.3mm thick)

Caseback – Glashütte Original Caliber 58-01

The two timepieces come set in a handmade oak case:

Here’s a step-by-step look at one of the marine chronometers being assembled — note the substantial size:

And here’s where a typical “marine chronometer” might have been used before the advent of modern electronics:

Did You Know?

The Glashütte Original Marine Chronometer

Construction and development of mechanical marine chronometers began in the 19th century. Over the course of more than a century, some 13,000 were manufactured in Glashütte. Thirteen of these historic instruments, manufactured during the final years of production in Glashütte, were discovered during preparations for the opening of the German Watch Museum Glashütte.

It was an astonishing find, and each has been carefully restored and lavishly finished: the entire chronometer housing has been carefully polished and given a sophisticated rhodium finish, as have the fittings and screws. Glashütte Original’s restoration experts built new gimbal mountings for each of the chronometers, and highly skilled artisans crafted thirteen wooden cases in matt black oak. In addition to the technical t

esting and adjustment of all components, restorative work performed on the chronometer movement includes extensive finishing. All plates, bridges, screws and pillars have been finely ground, polished and finished with hard gilding. The balance rim, weights and adjustment screws have also been carefully examined, re-worked and polished. The dial has been restored too: the sophisticated frosted silver plating has been refurbished in such a way as to retain the original milled, black inlay numerals and indexes. New fonts and the numbering of each unit complete the unique style of this distinctive nautical timepiece. Source: Glashütte Original.