In this week’s curation of pre-owned watches from the vaults of Govberg Jewelers, we will look at watches with cases that depart from the traditional round shape. More specifically, the watches I have today have a rectangular shape, with the exception of one watch which is of the tonneau style (two straight/two curved sides, somewhat like a barrel). I’ve found a couple classics (a Cartier Tank Francaise and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso) as well as some watches that are well out of production and/or a bit off the beaten path of the mainstream (a Roger Dubuis Quantième Perpétuel Much More, a Piaget Protocole, and a Franck Muller Conquistador). Overall an eclectic lineup — but when all you’ve got in common is a case shape its bound to get interesting! Follow along as I run down this week’s Buying Time lineup.
Carter Tank Francaise Large (Ref W510002Q3)
Ever since I sold one I owned over a decade ago, I’ve missed it. This Tank Française has an automatic mechanical movement inside a 36.5mm x 28.15mm x 7.45mm steel case with a steel bracelet with triple folding steel buckle. The Roman numerals, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, date aperture at 6 o’clock and 8-sided crown set with a synthetic spinel cabochon are classic Tank. Though not known for the pedigree of its movement, when it comes to its design I put the Tank Francaise on my all time most iconic watches list.
Offered at $3,750, complete with box & papers and with time still remaining on the factory warranty, this Cartier Tank Francaise can be yours for a couple grand off of what you would pay new. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface 270.1.54
26mm x 42mm yellow gold case
Another watch that really needs no introduction, the Reverso was originally developed for polo playing British colonial army officers in 1931. The idea behind the Reverso was that the case could swivel in order to flip/reverse the dial over thus protecting it during play. The watch has taken on many different forms over the last 80 or so years. The Reverso Duo seen here hinges on (is that a pun?) using the reverse side to indicate a second time-zone and day/night indicator. On the primary side, an engine turned silver Arabic dial with seconds sub-dial. Both displays are linked to and powered by single caliber.
This model is no longer in production by Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it is still a complete set iwth box and papers and comes with a 15-month warranty backed by Govberg Jewlers. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>
Piaget Protocole 26354
44mm titanium case
Thin, formal, and simple, the Protocole is the perfect tuxedo watch and in many ways embodies what I think of when I hear the name Piaget. Like the Reverso, the Protocole has had many different designs over the years; though Piaget still produces a Protocole jewlery line for women, the watch family is long gone. I think, but am not 100% certain, that this watch uses a Piaget Caliber 500P. The 500P goes way back in the long line of Piaget Calibers, representing the second generation of Piaget automatic movements (following the 12P). The 500 series calibers went on to contain 8 unique calibers, eventually supplanted by the Caliber 800 family.
Again, this particular model is no longer offered by Piaget, but that doesn’t make it any less appealing in my book. That it has no lugs adds to the allure of this watch. A gentleman might not wear a watch like this every day, but he definitely wants one in his closet for those special occasions.
Nice to see that this piece still has its original box and papers, too. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>
Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 SC
40mm x 56mm steel case, automatic mechanical movement
This is a simple time + date watch out of Franck Muller’s Conquistador family. I don’t know much about this particular watch except that it is a Franck Muller and Franck Muller is of course one of the greats when it comes to independent watchmaking with a style all one’s own…”Master of Complications” as his moniker oges. What caught my eye was the bracelet and how it flows in a diagonal manner. That’s, well, cool if you ask me. And for $5,650? Seems like a steal if you are a seasoned collector who has cycled through the mainstream brands and are looking to branch out (the same can be said of the next piece, though you’ll need a bigger bank account). More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>
Roger Dubuis Much More Quantieme Perpetuel M34 57 3 9011
rose gold case, automatic mechanical caliber
How about this watch. Talk about personality! Though it is a bit on the pricier side, I couldn’t help but drop it in to this segment on rectangular watches. First of all, it is an older Roger Dubuis and clearly not part of the brand’s modern day lineup. Like Muller, Roger Dubuis the man is also a legend of sorts when it comes to big dog watchmakers of the recent modern era. In addition this watch is perpetual calendar (“quantieme perpetuel”) with tri-letter day and month apertures and subdials for date and moonphase. It’s even got a killer looking buckle….this piece really speaks to me. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>
And that’s a wrap! In the meantime, you are welcome to check out the previous editions of Buying Time (but fair warning, many of the watches in these articles have sold!):
- Titanium Watches (Panerai, IWC, JLC, and Vacheron)
- Blue Dial Watches
- 5 Watches Under $5k
- GMT Watches
- Manual Wind Chronographs
- 5 Time-Only Dress Watches Under $10k
- Big Name Ceramic Watches
- Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Watches
Thanks as always to Govberg Jewelers and their ever changing treasure trove of great pre-owned watches. Be sure to check out their mobile app — Govberg On Time.
See you next week!