Buying Time: Rectangular Watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Cartier, Piaget and JLC

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo - Govberg for Perpetuelle

In this week’s curation of pre-owned watches from the vaults of Govberg Jewelers, we will look at watches with cases that depart from the traditional round shape.  More specifically, the watches I have today have a rectangular shape, with the exception of one watch which is of the tonneau style (two straight/two curved sides, somewhat like a barrel).   I’ve found a couple classics (a Cartier Tank Francaise and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso) as well as some watches that are well out of production and/or a bit off the beaten path of the mainstream (a Roger Dubuis Quantième Perpétuel Much More, a Piaget Protocole, and a Franck Muller Conquistador).  Overall an eclectic lineup — but when all you’ve got in common is a case shape its bound to get interesting!  Follow along as I run down this week’s Buying Time lineup.


Carter Tank Francaise Large (Ref W510002Q3)

Asking Price: $3,750

Cartier Tank Francaise Large W51002Q3 - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Ever since I sold one I owned over a decade ago, I’ve missed it.  This Tank Française has an automatic mechanical movement inside a 36.5mm x 28.15mm x 7.45mm steel case with a steel bracelet with triple folding steel buckle.  The Roman numerals, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel sword-shaped hands, date aperture at 6 o’clock and 8-sided crown set with a synthetic spinel cabochon are classic Tank.  Though not known for the pedigree of its movement, when it comes to its design I put the Tank Francaise on my all time most iconic watches list.

Offered at $3,750, complete with box & papers and with time still remaining on the factory warranty, this Cartier Tank Francaise can be yours for a couple grand off of what you would pay new. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>


 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface 270.1.54

Asking Price: $8,500

26mm x 42mm yellow gold case

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Another watch that really needs no introduction, the Reverso was originally developed for polo playing British colonial army officers in 1931.  The idea behind the Reverso was that the case could swivel in order to flip/reverse the dial over thus protecting it during play.  The watch has taken on many different forms over the last 80 or so years.  The Reverso Duo seen here hinges on (is that a pun?) using the reverse side to indicate a second time-zone and day/night indicator.  On the primary side, an engine turned silver Arabic dial with seconds sub-dial.   Both displays are linked to and powered by single caliber.

This model is no longer in production by Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it is still a complete set iwth box and papers and comes with a 15-month warranty backed by Govberg Jewlers. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>


Piaget Protocole 26354

Asking Price: $6,500

44mm titanium case

Piaget Protocole watch - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Thin, formal, and simple, the Protocole is the perfect tuxedo watch and in many ways embodies what I think of when I hear the name Piaget.  Like the Reverso, the Protocole has had many different designs over the years; though Piaget still produces a Protocole jewlery line for women, the watch family is long gone.  I think, but am not 100% certain, that this watch uses a Piaget Caliber 500P.   The 500P goes way back in the long line of Piaget Calibers, representing the second generation of Piaget automatic movements (following the 12P).  The 500 series calibers went on to contain 8 unique calibers, eventually supplanted by the Caliber 800 family.

Again, this particular model is no longer offered by Piaget, but that doesn’t make it any less appealing in my book.  That it has no lugs adds to the allure of this watch.  A gentleman might not wear a watch like this every day, but he definitely wants one in his closet for those special occasions.

Nice to see that this piece still has its original box and papers, too. More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>


Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 SC

Asking Price: $5,650

40mm x 56mm steel case, automatic mechanical movement

Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 SC - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

This is a simple time + date watch out of Franck Muller’s Conquistador family.  I don’t know much about this particular watch except that it is a Franck Muller and Franck Muller is of course one of the greats when it comes to independent watchmaking with a style all one’s own…”Master of Complications” as his moniker oges.  What caught my eye was the bracelet and how it flows in a diagonal manner.  That’s, well, cool if you ask me.  And for $5,650?  Seems like a steal if you are a seasoned collector who has cycled through the mainstream brands and are looking to branch out (the same can be said of the next piece, though you’ll need a bigger bank account).  More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>


Roger Dubuis Much More Quantieme Perpetuel M34 57 3 9011

Asking Price: $20,750

rose gold case, automatic mechanical caliber

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual caseback - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

Roger Dubuis Quantieme Much More Perpetual box set - for sale - Govberg via Perpetuelle

How about this watch.  Talk about personality!  Though it is a bit on the pricier side, I couldn’t help but drop it in to this segment on rectangular watches.  First of all, it is an older Roger Dubuis and clearly not part of the brand’s modern day lineup.  Like Muller, Roger Dubuis the man is also a legend of sorts when it comes to big dog watchmakers of the recent modern era.  In addition this watch is perpetual calendar (“quantieme perpetuel”) with tri-letter day and month apertures and subdials for date and moonphase.  It’s even got a killer looking buckle….this piece really speaks to me.  More pics, specs and purchase details available at Govberg>>>


And that’s a wrap!  In the meantime, you are welcome to check out the previous editions of Buying Time (but fair warning, many of the watches in these articles have sold!):

Thanks as always to Govberg Jewelers and their ever changing treasure trove of great pre-owned watches. Be sure to check out their mobile app — Govberg On Time.

See you next week!

First Look: The New Franck Muller Yachting Collection

Franck Muller Yachting Collection

Franck Muller very recently unveiled the first timepiece in its new Yachting Collection, a watch series dedicated to its exclusive new yacht partnership with the Italian Sea Group which aims to create “to produce luxury yachts of a level never seen before.”   In today’s world of mega-billionaires with mega-yachts, that’s no small challenge folks!!!

As for the watches, well I believe this is Muller’s first “seafaring” series, and the watch you see here certainly has an enchanting design.   Though details on the collection are scant at present, the watch is clearly based on Muller’s Vanguard collection, and full of nautical-inspired design elements.  The partially visible sketch on the caseband is actually the logo for the “Franck Muller Yacht” being made in partnership with the Italian Sea Group.

The first Franck Muller co-designed yacht will be delivered in September 2015, during the Monaco Yacht Show

Franck Muller Yachts Italian Sea Group

The Franck Muller Yachting Collection will be offered in titanium, red gold and stainless steel case, and in two variants – classic (pictured) and chronograph.  Each watch comes with a cordura and rubber strap with white or blue stitching.

Franck Muller Logo

More at

Introducing the Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity Tourbillon

First look…

Franck Muller logo 620 Franck Muller Gravity logo

Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity tourbillon dial detail - Perpetuelle

Franck Muller headlines its 2015 collection with the new Vanguard Gravity, an avant-garde timepiece with a new elliptical tourbillon cage crafted in aluminum.   I don’t have all the details yet, but here’s what know as of today.  In keeping with a penchant for the dramatic (you’ve seen the Giga Tourbillon, right?), the Gravity’s innovative 60-second tourbillon occupies the entire lower side of the dial, its cage measuring in at whopping 21.2mm in diameter (the balance wheel is 14mm).   Even better, the owner can select from a palette of 6 colors for the bridge (using PVD technology similar to the Armin Strom Pure,I’d guess).

Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity

44mm x 54mm case (Franck Muller ” Cintrée Curvex” shape, titanium + white or pink gold, 15mm thick), manual-winding FM caliber CS-03 (18,000 vph)

Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity tourbillon - Perpetuelle

Franck Muller Vanguard Gravity tourbillon detail - Perpetuelle

Franck Muller Gravity Tourbillon

There’s a couple more exciting pieces in the 2015 Franck Muller collection, I hope to get a look at least one of them out here shortly before the SIHH madness begins.

Franck Muller Vintage 7-Days Power Reserve

This is the new Franck Muller Vintage (Curvex) 7-Days Power Reserve.  Entirely designed and manufactured in Geneva, it is available in stainless steel or pink gold with either a white or inked enamel dial.  Overall, a beautiful addition to Franck Muller’s famous Vintage collection, though I do find the power reserve display to be  a bit quirky.
Click through for a closer look