Aluminum case…movement, too!
Last year esteemed watchmaker F.P. Journe launched the first high-end mechanical watch made of aluminum, the Centigraphe Sport. This year he follows with the second model in the F.P. Journe “aluminum” line, the Octa Sport. The Octa Sport (note the stylized Octa “S” on the dial) has several useful features on the dial including a date window and small seconds subdial and is very much in the style of FP Journe dials; of course the best thing about this watch is its full-on aluminum construction — including most major movement components.
This said, I actually find the watch to be more ‘sophisticated’ than ‘sporty, and I don’t see what the AM/PM and power reserve indicators add to the watch, particularly with regards to sportiness. A nice look, yes, but a little bit quirky, unnatural, a little ‘off’, for what I would consider to be a sport watch. Basically, I think that FP Journe is one of those high-end watchmakers who makes watches first to please himself, and if others like it then great — i.e. I would consider his work to be an ‘acquired taste’, and this piece is consistent with said point of view. Price for the F.P. Journe Octa Sport is $25,790 on a rubber strap and $31,050 on the aluminum bracelet.
FP Journe Octa Sport
42mm aluminum case, automatic mechanical manufacture movement (aluminum bridges, rotor (tungsten insert for weight)), on rubber strap with folding clasp
strap
view through the caseback
I just watched a review of the F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain watch over at KronosBlog. This was my first look at this watch, and I thought that the review was so fantastic that I wanted to share it here. As captured in the video, the hand-wound mechanical movement of the Centigraphe indicates elapsed time from 1/100th of a second to 10 minutes, visible on 3 dials, each with a time scale in red and a tachometer scale in black. A very impressive timepiece, both visually and mechancially. The F.P Journe Centigraphe Souverain price is about $75,000 (55,000 EUR).
Via: KronosBlog (click through for full review and some great pics).
F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Watch Review (Video)
40mm platinum or rose gold case (10.7mm thick), manual wind Journe Caliber 1506 (80 hours power reserve-max)
F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Watch
-Invenit et Fecit-
2010 commemorates the 10 year anniversary of the F.P. Journe “Chronomètre à Resonance”, a watch that is part of elite watchmaker François-Paul Journe’s highly coveted Souveraine collection. In a slight tweak from the prior variation (circa 2004), this new edition now features a 24 hour indicator located at the 9′oclock position instead of 12 hour time. Journe also continues his tradition of crafting the double-balance wheel movement out of 18K rose gold, a F.P. Journe “first” when the 2004 Chronomètre à Résonance was introduced. As for the case, the new Chronomètre a Résonance will be available in two versions: platinum or 18K red gold — of course these are the only metals Journe sees fit to use for his cases. You can read more about the “resonance” effect of this watch below.
F.P.Journe Chronomètre a Résonance with 24 hour indicator
38mm or 40mm case size (9mm height), 24h indicator with small seconds on the left, local time with small seconds on the right, power reserve at 11 o’clock
Caliber 1499.3 manual winding movement, 40 hour power reserve
If you are interested in a full on review of this watch (actually it is the earlier variation), Felipe Jordão of “ThePurists” wrote an excellent review in Feb’05 – loaded with pics and info – just click HERE to see it!
Resonance – Did you know?
The first applications of the resonance phenomenon in horological science date back to the 18th century, by French master watchmaker Antide Janvier (†1840). He observed the negative effects of these waves on clocks and then conducted his own research on ways of using this phenomenon in the operating of regulators.
Any animate body transmits a vibration to its environment. When another body picks up this vibration, it absorbs its energy and begins to vibrate at the same frequency. The first is called the “exciter” and the second the “resonator”. This physical phenomenon known as “resonance” is an integral part of our daily life and yet we hardly even notice it. When we are looking for a program on the radio, it crackles until the chosen wavelengths meet those of the transmitter: only then do they harmonise to begin resonating together!
In the case of the this resonance wristwatch created by François-Paul journe, each balance alternately serves as exciter and resonator. When both balances are in motion, they reach a state of “sympathy” throught the effect of resonance and began to beat naturally in the opposite direction. The two balances therefore support each other, giving greater inertia to their movement. This harmony is only possible if the difference in frequency between the two is no more than five seconds per day accumulated in 6 positions. Adjusting them is an extremely delicate task. While an external disturbing movement affects the running of a traditional mechanical watch, in the case of a resonance watch this same disturbance has the effect of accelerating one of the balances and slowing down the other. Little by little, the two balances come back together to reach a point of agreement and thereby eliminate the disturbance. This innovative chronometer offers a level of precision that is unrivalled among mechanical watches.
Here is a very interesting and visually appealing new watch from elite watchmaker F.P. Journe. First let me say what a beautiful blue color this watch is (and merely a coincidence that it bears a similarly rich, deep blue-colored dial as the IWC Laureus that I featured here in First In Watches about a month ago).
More intriguing to me about this watch is its intended wearer – is this a Journe for Junior? It seems so! Journe presents his new CHRONOMÈTRE BLEU as “The First F.P. Journe Junior Creation with Chronometric Precision” while noting that “François-Paul Journe has found the answer to the demand for a precision watch by a clientele that, though still young (often his collectors’ children), is already fascinated by chronometry. ” Really?!? I can see it now: children of F.P. Journe’s wealthy clientele are dirtying up their father’s pieces of haute horlogerie on the school jungle gym - François-Paul help! OK, so I exaggerate a tiny bit perhaps. But is ”Junior” capable of truly appreciating and caring for something as precious and exclusive as an F.P. Journe.? Certainly he can not afford it!
Whimsical situations aside, this the new CHRONOMÈTRE BLEU from F.P. Journe is beautiful both in its color, its curves and its simplicity. The watch has a 39 mm diameter case made of Tantalum, a rare dark grey metal with blue overtones. Tantalum is a hard and heavy metal that is highly resistant to corrosion and wear and is frequently used in surgery and aeronautics.
Something tells me that as much as this watch might be intended for “Junior”, it will probably end up getting most of its wrist time on Father!
The watch has a manual winding movement (Caliber 1304) made in 18K rose gold, like that of all F.P.Journe creations. Its twin barrels deliver a 56-hour indicated reserve. The movement is signed with the label -Invenit et Fecit- (invented and made), each F.P.Journe exclusive movement guarantees a manufacture calibre, invented, constructed, and assembled entirely in Journe’s Geneva workshops, and is visible through the transparent case back.
The CHRONOMÈTRE BLEU will be available starting in November at all F.P.Journe Boutiques in New York, Beijing, Paris, Tokyo, Geneva, Hong Kong and Boca Raton, as well as through all authorized F.P.Journe retailers world-wide. 166 will be made. comes with a leather strap.
Editor’s Note: At the request of F.P. Journe, this post has been temporarily removed. In the future, please note that if you would like your press release to be embargoed until a certain date, you should mark all versions of the press release as such – particularly those on your press portal. First In Watches has and continues to respect embargo requests, but only on information that is marked as such.
