Show here are the two Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chronograph timepieces that Chopard is set to unveil this coming weekend at the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique. Like the 2010 Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco pieces I find little if anything not to like about these splendid racing watches: the colors are great, the case is great (42mm titanium or titan+rose gold), the dial layout is great (note the horizontal racing strips at mid-dial) and the heritage is great. Every detail is right without anything being over the top. This is what Chopard is all about to me — the racing watch. I’d have a hard time choosing an Omega Speedy over a nice Mille Miglia or one of these Monaco Historique pieces — but that’s just me, a man who prefers the path less traveled.
Chopard Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Chronograph 2012
Titanium/orange edition (ref. 168992-3032) or limited, numbered edition (500 pieces) in titanium+rose gold/blue (ref. 168992-3032)
42.4mm case (14.7mm thick), automatic mechanical movement (COSC), on perforated grey Barenia leather strap with matching stitching and titanium pin buckle
note the “steering wheel” motif on the crown:
Monaco – my yacht, 3rd from left 
Exhibition back, engraved with the GPMH initials and the Automobile Club de Monaco insignia:
Representing the “vintage version” of the Formula 1 Grand Prix, the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique was created in 1998 to mark the 700th anniversary of the Grimaldi family’s accession to the throne of the Principality. Raced along the same route through the streets of Monaco, it is reserved exclusively for classic racing cars, making it unique in its kind. Although initially intended as a one-off event, it is now on its 8th running and a much anticipated biannual event. This is Chopard’s sixth time as a sponsor.
Reminisce: Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2010
Exhibition back, engraved with the GPMH initials and the Automobile Club de Monaco insignia
Baselworld 2012: With its L.U.C 8HF watch, Chopard is the latest to join the likes of Breguet (10Hz), De Bethune (Resonique), TAG Heuer and others (that’s all that come to mind right now) with an ultra high-frequency escapement. Ultra high-frequency escapements are slowing gaining ground, led by advancements in precision technology; there is no doubt that many elite watchmakers are dabbling in this area. The primary value of high frequency in watchmaking applications lies in a significant improvement in the precision timekeeping properties of a calibre, particularly in terms of rate resumption and stability. A higher number of vibrations of the balance means less sensitivity to disturbances — at least in theory. Though the long term reliability of high frequency movements is often questioned, Chopard and its L.U.C 01.06-L caliber can at least lay claim to the first 8Hz escapement to obtain COSC certification. The 8Hz (57,600 bph) is double the speed of most movements (28,800 bph). Of note with this caliber are its 60 hour power reserve derived from a single barrel, as well as the use of silicon for certain pieces of the escapement (see photo at bottom).
Chopard’s L.U.C 8HF has a 42 mm-diameter case made of titanium, further distinguished by its crown at 4 o’clock (also titanium). The date appears in a pointer-type display at 5:30, while the red small seconds hand at 6 o’clock travels far more smoothly than on ordinary watches thanks to the high-frequency escapement and its 57,600 vibrations per hour. A magnifying glass built into the half-closed case-back is positioned just above the high-frequency escapement, providing a chance to appreciate its finer details. The L.U.C 8HF is fitted onto a hand-sewn matte black alligator leather strap with a cognac-coloured alligator lining, with matching titanium pin buckle. A little funky and somewhat futuristic looking, but I suppose that is the point.
Chopard L.U.C 8HF Watch
limited edition 100 pieces
42mm titanium case, L.U.C 01-06-L 8Hz movement
Baselworld 2012: Rounding out the 2012 Chopard collection is the exemplary Chopard L.U.C Lunar One watch. First launched in 2006 but now redesigned with a new aesthetic, the L.U.C Lunar One features a 43mm rose gold case housing a L.U.C. 96.13-L caliber with a perpetual calendar and orbital moon-phase display. In addition to the “Dauphine” style hands, the hours are now displayed as Roman numerals, framed by a railtrack graduation of a black transferred type similar to the three subdials indicating the small seconds, month and day of the week. The movement has a beautifully decoratd micro-rotor, is COSC rated and also meets criteria to obtain the Geneva Seal. It drives the hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, a perpetual calendar with large twin-aperture date display at 12 o’clock, days of the week and 24-hour indication at 9 o’clock, as well as months and leap years at 3 o’clock.
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Perpetual Calendar
43mm rose gold case, automatic mechanical manufacture movement (LUC 96.13-L)
VIDEO
Baselworld 2012: Chopard has added a new collection, simply called Classic, to its portfolio, with the first watch in the new line, the Classic Manufactum, making its debut at the Baselworld watch fair. The understated design of the watches is simply marvelous. Inspired by the pocketwatches of the Belle Epoque, the classicism of the design starts with the porcelain-type dial and its shiny black Roman numerals and extends to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, which features a “railtrack” graduation typical of vintage pocketwatches of the era; and the slender gold-toned hands. Though the first “Classic” piece to receive this particular in-house movement, the caliber was used in select Chopard Imperial pieces in 2011. The rose-gold model retails for $14,740.
Chopard Classic Manufactum Watch
38mm case (rose, yellow or white gold), exhibition caseback, automatic Chopard Caliber 01.04-C, fitted with a matte black alligator leather strap with an 18k gold pin buckle.
rose gold:
The Chopard manufacture caliber is entirely created by Fleurier Ebauches, the Chopard Group unit producing industrial movements not destined for the L.U.C Haute Horlogerie collection.
white gold (l), yellow gold (r)
Baselworld 2012: The latest addition to the Chopard XP line is the sophisticated and elegant L.U.C XP Skeletec, epitomising the philosophy of essentials. Most interesting here is that the automatic mechanical Chopard L.U.C Calibre 96.17-S ultra-thin movement is the first skeletonised calibre produced by Chopard Manufacture. Two gilded Dauphine-type hands and the inscription “L.U.Chopard” on the glareproofed sapphire crystal further enhance the refined appearance of this 39.5 mm-diameter ultra-thin watch.
Chopard L.U.C. XP Skeletec Watch
limited edition 288 pieces
39.5mm rose gold case, automatic mechanical Chopard manufacture movement (3.3m thin)
the ultra-thin L.U.C Calibre 96.17-S: this self-winding caliber beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) boasts a 65-hour power reserve thanks to the Chopard “Twin” technology, a Chopard-patented system combining two coaxial barrels and done within the extreme slenderness of the 3.3 mm-thick movement.
The mainplate is adorned with Côtes de Genève striping on the dial side, as well as its bridges, are meticulously openworked to reveal its inner workings. The latter are rhodium-plated black and create a contrast that cleverly highlights the gilded gear wheels visible both on the dial side and through the back
Baselworld 2012: Wow! This watch must be something to look on the display at Basel. Just do not stare at it for too long in the sunlight. Seriously, though, it is marvelous!
For this unique piece, it was clear the intention was not to define this creation as a watch or jewellery. Rather, we chose to combine the two skills on which we have built our reputation.
The breathtaking gem-setting work is a masterful demonstration of jewellery-making skills, while the L.U.C 02-14-L movement – entirely designed, developed and crafted by hand – is equipped with a tourbillon, one of the finest complications of watchmaking. The overall result is a blend of Haute Joaillerie and Haute Horlogerie that truly sets a new standard for complicated feminine watches.
Bearing the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, the chronometer-certified tourbillon calibre of the IMPERIALE Tourbillon Full Set is housed within an 18-carat case and dial entirely set with diamonds and demonstrating almost the entire range of our artisans’ commanding gem-setting techniques.
The snow setting technique requires combining in the center dial brilliant-cut diamonds of a variety of diameters. In addition, the crown is adorned with baguette- and briolette-cut diamonds and a power-reserve indicator set an amethysts array, while oval-cut cabochons and baguette-cut diamonds grace the bezel, lugs and bracelet.
Finally, at 6 o’clock, surrounded by amethysts set amid white lights, the tourbillon bridge reflects the distinctive motif of the IMPERIALE collection and is held in place by four amethyst-set screws.
The hand-wound L.U.C 02.14-L calibre is equipped with four stacked and series-coupled barrels. This patented Quattro® technology ensures over nine 9 days of operating autonomy as well as a constant regularity of rate. In addition, this unique model meets all the standards required to earn the chronometer certificate awarded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
To support its partnership with Paul Miller Racing in the American Le Mans Series, Chopard introduces the Paul Miller Racing Limited Edition Mille Miglia GTXL. The watch is available in stainless steel (100 pieces, $9,650 per) or pink gold (25 pieces, $26,000 per)
Mille Miglia GTXL Special Edition Paul Miller Watch set in Stainless Steel
stainless steel or pink gold case, automatic mechanical movement (COSC)
You are looking at the world’s first “triple certified” timepiece. And you thought a COSC certified tourbillon was rare! The new L.U.C. 3C Tourbillon is a remarkable watch in both form and function. The name of the watch is derived from the three certifications (aka “3C”) it has received — the Geneva Seal, the Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF) and COSC. Overkill, you say? Eh, perhaps — but my view that this an achievement worth savoring. Without going into too much technical detail on each of these certificates, here is a high level rundown of each: “COSC” is a timing certification, issued to a particular movement (not a cased up watch); conversely, the Geneva Seal is for a timepiece of high quality finishing and decoration and that is also made in the the Swiss Canton of Geneva; lastly, the FQF certification — while somewhat redundant to both the COSC and Geneva Seal, is arguably a more difficult (prestigious?) certificate to receive as it covers both technical and aesthetic criteria. Just click through above if you want to up y0ur knowledge on any of these three prestigious certifications — but for now please enjoy a look at the beautiful new Chopard L.U.C. 3C Tourbillon. Well done, Chopard, well done!
Chopard L.U.C. 3C Tourbillon
(Ref. 161929-5001 – 100 piece limited edition)
world first “triple certificate” timepiece – Geneva Seal, COSC & FQF
43mm rose gold case (11.15mm thick), hand-wound L.U.C 02.13-L (L.U.C 1.02QF) tourbillon caliber (nine day power reserve — double barrel/four mainsprings)
The movement finishing appears first class all the way — nicely shaped bridges and bevelled edges, etc.
It is a bit difficult to see — but note the “FQF” logo on the bottom left and the “Geneva Seal” on the bottom right:
grained, sandblasted finish on the dial; 9-day power reserve meter, visible tourbillon
Did You Know?
The FQF
Created on 5 June 2001, the Fleurier Quality Foundation stems from a joint project undertaken by the Chopard, Parmigiani Fleurier and Bovet Fleurier brands, as well as the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, to establish new aesthetic and technical criteria dedicated to the certification of finished watches.
Just before the Singapore Formula 1 night race, Chopard unveiled the latest in its ongoing series of Chopard Jacky Ickx Chronograph watches, the the Jacky Ickx “Edition V”. This classic racing watch is limited to 2000 pieces in stainless steel case and 500 in rose gold,and now features 24 hour (instead of 12) and 60 minute (instead of 30) counters. More on the legendary racer Jacky Ickx and his Formula 1 and Le Mans 24-hour race career, here.
Chopard Jacky Ickx Chronograph (Edition V)
42.5 mm steel or rose gold case (14mm thick), magnifying glass date display, screw-down crown, “car piston” styled chrono pushers, specially decorated sapphire case-back, automatic mechanical chronograph movement (COSC-certified)
“Only Watch” is a biennial charity auction of one-of-a-kind watches created by many of the most renowned watch brands in Switzerland. This exceptional event is held every two years in Monaco during the Monaco Yacht Show and is under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II. All the proceeds from Only Watch go to support Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research which is why many of these watches go extraordinarily high prices.
Starting today Perpetuelle will begin its coverage of Only Watch 2011. Stay tuned in because over the next few months, you will get to see awesome “piece unique” watches from each of the participating brands for the 2011 event:
Click through to see our in-depth preview of each watch:
- Harry Winston Midnight GMT Tourbillon
- Patek Philippe Ref 3939A Minute Repeater
- Urwerk UR-103 “Phoenix”
- Romain Jerome “Rock the Rock”
- Hublot Oceanographic 4000m dive watch
- MB&F HM-4 “Flying Panda”
- TAG Heuer “Monaco Mikrograph”
- Bell & Ross Pink Gold “Casino”
- Louis Vuitton Tambour Diver Chronograph
- Blancpain Villeret Grand Decoration
- Piaget Altiplano Skeleton
- Breguet Reveil Musical Watch
- Audemars Piguet Gstaad Classic
- Jaquet Droz Petit Heure Minute
- Van Cleef & Arpel “From the Earth to the Moon” Watch
- Girard-Perregaux ww.TC
- Corum Golden Bridge Automatic Titanium
- Vulcain Anniversary Heart Watch
- Chanel J12 Marine Watch
- Franck Muller “Totally Switzerland”
- Ulysse Nardin Freak Diavolo
- Vacheron Constantin “Dove” Watch (M.C. Escher-inspired)
- Zenith El Primero “Destro” watches
- Montblanc Villeret 1858 Pulsograph
- Ikepod Red Hourglass by Marc Newson
- Bovet Fleurier, Celsius, Chaumet, Chopard, De Bethune, Delacour, De Witt, Frédérique Constant, Hermès, Laurent Ferrier, Maurice Lacroix, Richard Mille
Only Watch 2011 will be held September 24, 2011 and managed by watch auction house Antiquorum. But you don’t have to wait this long — because part of the excitement leading up to the September 24, 2011 event is the release of each participating brand’s special edition watch.
ONLY WATCH 2009
If you are interested in looking back, I covered the Only Watch 2009 auction extensively including blogging about several of my favorites inlcluding: Piaget Emperador Coussin, MB&F Sage Vaughn HM-2, Bovet 3-in-1 Mona Lisa Watch, Tourneau Jump Hour, Louis Vuitton Tambour, Chanel J12 Joallerie with pink sapphire, and Blancpain 500 Fathoms. You can see all 34 “Only Watch 2009″ watches here on the Perpeuelle World Watch Forum. The Only Watch 2009 auction was hosted by Patrizzi & Co.
