Breguet Réveil Musical Watch for ONLY WATCH 2011

Unique Piece

48mm white gold case (16.3mm thick), automatic mechanical movement, caseband finely engraved with a musical stave, caseback personalised for Only Watch 2011 and engraved with the inscription “pièce unique”

Castle In the Sky Music Box Tune

Ed’s note:  I am fairly confident, but not 100%, that this is the tune the watch plays:

Also, and I believe this is a little known fact, but the Breguet Reveil Musical watch also incorporates a Liquidmetal^® membrane which serves to amplify the frequencies required to emit the tune.  Liquidmetal is a exclusively licensed for use in watches by the Swatch Group, but is much more broadly recognized for its use in Omega watches such as the original Liquidmetal Seamaster Planet Ocean and the more recent Titanium Liquidmetal Seamaster Planet Ocean.

Breguet Type XXI Titanium Ref 3810TI

42mm titanium case, comes on a calfskin leather strap (pictured) or titanium bracelet

The only peculiarity is the use of “grade 2″ titanium instead of the more common “grade 5″.  Perhaps it is because Grade 2 titanium is considered “commercially pure” (i.e. unalloyed), whereas Grade 5 titanium is only about 89% titanium.  At the same time, because it is an alloy, Grade 5 titanium is significantly stronger than commercially pure titanium while having the same stiffness and thermal properties — hence its widespread use for high performance components in the aerospace, medical, and marine industries).  I suppose there is an argument for each of the Grades (i.e. “purity” vs. “performance”) in a watch such as this.

]]> http://blog.perpetuelle.com/baselworld/breguet-type-xxi-titanium-ref-3810ti/feed/ 0 http://blog.perpetuelle.com/baselworld/breguet-classique-5717-hora-mundi/ http://blog.perpetuelle.com/baselworld/breguet-classique-5717-hora-mundi/#comments Thu, 24 Mar 2011 11:35:09 +0000 Kyle Stults http://blog.perpetuelle.com/?p=9204 Opening Day at Baselworld!

“World timer” watches are definitely IN right now, with Montres Breguet joining the realm with this beautiful Classique 5715 Hora Mundi.  Long time Breguet aficionados may recall that Breguet had already introduced a first Hora Mundi watch in 1996, in the Marine line, however the 2011 version has markedly different functions.  Breguet notes that the 5717 Hora Mundi is the first example of a mechanical timepiece with an instant-jump time-zone display, allowing the traveller to easily display the time in two pre-selected time zones, changing instantly from one to the other simply by pressing a button, without disturbing the operation of the watch.  The cover for this disc, representing a cloud and bearing the Breguet name and the watch’s serial number, is engraved entirely by hand.  A remarkable watch from Breguet!  Stay tuned for more — the Breguet lineup is really good this year!

Breguet Classique 5717 Hora Mundi

44mm diameter red gold or platinum case (13.55mm thick), Breguet caliber 5717 with silicon escapement, sapphire caseback

Accurate operation during setting is ensured by a stop second system. Changing the time zone affects not only the time, but also the date synchronised through a calendar tracking system – and the day/night indicator.  Three versions of the dial are available, each representing one part of the world: the Americas, the European and African continents, or Asia and Oceania – six references in all.

How to read the watch:

The disc appears in a window on the dial at 12 o’clock. The window is large enough to show three consecutive dates at once. For example, on the 25th of the month, the number 25 will cross the window from left to right over a period of 24 hours. Gradually, the 23 disappears, then the 24, and the 26 appears, followed by the 27.   However, to avoid any confusion in reading the date, Breguet’s watchmakers have made an improvement. To the dragging calendar system they have added a tiny retrograde hand, hidden beneath the dial and ending in a small circle. The circle surrounds the day’s date as soon as it appears at the left side of the date window, and follows it through the day until it disappears at the right side of the window. At midnight, the hand with the circle jumps back to the left side of the window to indicate the date of the day just beginning. This entirely unique system is designed to make reading the date easier in a dragging calendar configuration.

This watch’s most iconic complication, however, is its instant-jump time-zone display system with synchronised date, day/night and city indications, a world first for a mechanical watch. This function lets the wearer preselect, from among the cities listed for the 24 time zones, two cities for which he wishes to display local time. He can then change from one to the other by pressing on the combined crown/pushpiece at 8 o’clock, which triggers an instant jump. For example, assume it is 4 pm in Paris on the 25th of the month. Rotating the combined crown/pushpiece reveals «Paris» in the window at 6 o’clock, then the crown at 3 o’clock is used to set the hands to 4 o’clock and the date to 25, taking care that the day/night indicator shows the sun. For quick display of the local time in Sydney, the crown/pushpiece is first rotated to bring up the name of the Australian city in the window at 6 o’clock; the watch then automatically sets itself to Sydney time. Since the difference in time is nine hours, the hour hand will move forward by nine hours. At the same time, the date will change to the 26th and the day/night indicator will turn to show the moon. When it is 4 pm in Paris, it is in fact 1 am the next day in Sydney. Once the watch has been preset, the double instant-jump time-zone display system will simultaneously change all the indications – hour, date and day/night – in a coordinated way from Paris time to Sydney time when the wearer simply presses on the crown/pushpiece. This complication will thus prove extremely useful for frequent travellers, or persons in contact with others living in distant countries; it allows them to get in touch with such people while being certain that they are not waking them up in the middle of the night.

***

In 2010, Aéronavale is celebrating its hundredth anniversary.   To honour the 100th anniversary of the Aéronavale Breguet is issuing this special Type XX in a limited, numbered edition of 1,000.  Limited, numbered series such as this are a rarity for Breguet – so as you might have guessed there is a special kinship between Breguet and Aéronavale that makes this watch possible.  Indeed, brand namesake A.-L. Breguet himself was appointed official watchamker to the French Royal Navy way back in 1815.  And I also surmise that the late Nicolas Hayek himself was behind this project at some point.

Breguet Type XX Aéronavale 2010 (Ref. 3803)

Limited, Numbered Edition of 1,000 – Price: $9,200 (surprisingly reasonable)

39mm steel case, black lacquered rotating bezel with raised numerals, automatic flyback chronograph movement Breguet caliber 581, calfskin leather strap, special presentation box

specially marked caseback

However, under no circumstances would I buy this watch.  This is simply because, as an American, the tribute to French Naval forces has absolutely no sentimental meaning to me.  Enjoy it, France!

Breguet Marine Royale (Ref 5847BB/12/BZ0)

45mm 18-carat white gold case, automatic movement, alarm (marked by the blue triangular hand, on/off indicator at 12 o’clock, alarm power reserve indication aperture between 9 and 11 o’clock), date, luminous hands, water-resistant to 300m, sapphire-crystal caseback.

Did you know it has been just over 10 years now since Swatch Group acquired Breguet?  Yes indeed, I tell you its true, but enough history for now.  The watch you see here represents the 2010 model for Breguet’s Marine collection.  In addition to the specs above, the watch is also available in white gold with black dial, rose gold with black dial, and rose gold with rose gold dial.    I estimate prices for all these models will be in the $35,000-$45,000 range.

While I think that the Breguet Marine collection has gotten stronger each of the past few years, and while I could certainly see myself “looking good” while sporting a watch like this off the upper deck of something like this, I still have trouble seeing this as a true “dive” or even “marine” watch, though with 300m water resistance and Breguet quality construction I’m not sure if my perception is warranted or not.  It’s just that when I think of Breguet, “King of Tourbillons” is often the first thing that pops into my head, not marine/dive watches.

Don’t get me wrong — I generally like Breguet watches, and if I had my druthers, I would opt for a Breguet Type XXI (specifically, the very striking, very awesome Ref 3810BR/92/9ZU – pink gold case with dark brown dial and brown strap) or perhaps even the new Breguet Type XXII rather than this Marine watch.  But to each his own, right?  Let me know what you think of this watch and Breguet in general — drop a comment below!

The best new release from Breguet this year…the Breguet Type XXII Flyback.  Aside from its obvious visual appeal, the watch is interesting in a couple ways.  First, its chronograph seconds hand that makes a complete rotation in 30 seconds, not the usual 60 on most watches.  What this means, logically, is that it takes two full sweeps of the seconds hand (the red hand, below) to time one minute –  and to tell the wearer how far along in each minute they are (i.e. the first or the second 30 seconds!) there is a small indicator near 12 o’clock.

The Breguet Type XXII chronograph also features a flyback function, allowing the totaliser to be returned to zero and instantly restarted in one and the same push of the button.  Furthermore, the dial includes a second time-zone indicator along with an aperture for a date calendar.

This watch will be a hit, no doubt about it.  Price?  about $18,000.

I thought you might enjoy this report of a very exclusive and intimate evening with Breguet that was posted on the World Watch Forum by Mr. James Bond.  Bond, James Bond, is Perpetuelle.com’s Forum Moderator and watch enthusiast extraordinaire.   If you are a regular visitor of our forum, you will most certainly know James for his uncanny ability to leave no inquiry or post untouched (ie all who post will get a reply from James) – he is the consummate watch forum gentleman.

James has built some fantastic relationships over the couple years that I have had the privilege of knowing and working with him, and as a result of these relationships, well……we all get to see some very exclusive, very expensive watches in venues and events that most can only dream of getting an invitation to.  In this particular case, James takes us behind the scenes of a private event hosted by Montres Breguet and Dorfman, one of the most exclusive watch and jewelery stores in Boston.  If you are not familiar with Dorfman of Boston, click here to check out the Dorfman’s website here and you’ll see what I mean by exclusive. They only carry Patek Philippe, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and of course Breguet.  Nothing but the absolute best at Dorfman – their motto is “Like No Other”.  Indeed.  Let’s just say that’s my kind of place.  If you are ever in Boston, drop by their luxurious 24 Newbury Street location and you won’t be disappointed.

And now to my point – to see more pictures of this special Breguet event, including some nice pics of many many many fine Breguet watches, CLICK HERE to see James Bond’s report.  There is even a video embedded in the report that James managed to shoot. Thanks James and next time won’t you take me with you?!?

The Breguet Classique Grande Complication – a Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

CLICK HERE to see James Bond’s report full of pictures like the one you see above.

]]> http://blog.perpetuelle.com/special-reports/an-intimate-evening-with-breguet-anyone/feed/ 0 http://blog.perpetuelle.com/baselworld/baselworld-2010-breguet-tradition-fusee-tourbillon-in-platinum-ref-7047/ http://blog.perpetuelle.com/baselworld/baselworld-2010-breguet-tradition-fusee-tourbillon-in-platinum-ref-7047/#comments Wed, 27 Jan 2010 20:20:02 +0000 Kyle Stults http://blog.perpetuelle.com/?p=2391 Tradition Meets Innovation

Set to debut at Baselworld 2010, the Breguet Tradition Fusee Tourbillon with Silicon Balance Spring (Ref 7047) represents the joining of traditional design with innovative materials.  Breguet’s “Tradition” collection is characterized by its very open, mechanical looking dial with a small sub-dial noting hours/minutes and of course a tourbillon.  It was just last year that Breguet introduced a new model in the anthracite color range, and the brand continues this year with the model you see below – 41mm platinum case, anthracite color, except now with silicon balance spring.  The movement is a Breguet Cal 569 – manual wind with 50 hrs power reserve.  More on this watch – and silicon balance springs – after the jump.

Montres Breguet has a long history of innovating with the balance spring, and in 2006 it introduced its first wristwatches with silicon balance springs and escapements.  As you may know, the balance spring is a very fine coil spring that is most often made of metal.  The balance spring is a vital and sometimes visible component of a mechanical watch, and I always enjoy watching  (with our without a loupe) a balance spring oscillate in perfect rhythm as it helps the watch to keep time.  The new thing about this “traditional” watch from Breguet is that it has a balance spring made of silicon.  Thus unlike a metal spring, the silicon balance spring is less vulnerable to the influences of gravity, heat and other external factors that could otherwise impede its crucial role.  As for magnetic fields, a silicon balance spring is pretty much  impervious.

Aside from all this talk about silicon balance springs, I think it is also noteworthy that this watch has a “fusee-and-chain” transmission system which is rarely seen in watches and usually only in those of the highest caliber.  It is a bit difficult to see in the photo.  Overall, this is not a watch for me – I find it a bit too edgy/atypical for a watch called “tradition”, not to mention that the price on this watch should be quite high – I would think at least $50k, but feel free to set me straight if you have any insight.