Here we have the Baume & Mercier Clifton Retrograde Date, new for 2014. The watch shares the characteristic elegance of the Clifton collection, including its well proportioned dial and graceful case lines. This watch is distinguished by its retrograde date function, as well as a day of week subdial and power reserve. I think one of these indicators, however, is wholly unnecessary. Read on below for more analysis.
In 2014 Baume & Mercier is building on its Clifton collection, moving up from the mostly basic models which debuted the collection last year to complications such as a chronograph, a retrograde date and even a tourbillon (!) this year. I am a big fan of the Clifton collection for a number of reasons, most notably its combination of relatively accessible pricing and attractive design. Let’s start now with a look an updated look at the new Clifton Chronograph (my initial preview is here). In a nutshell, this is a great looking watch — I’ll break down why, below.
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Perpetuelle presents the highlights of Montblanc’s 2014 collection as presented at SIHH 2014. Montblanc, under leadership of former Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jerome Lambert, put forth a stellar lineup. The new Meisterstuck Heritage collection was unexpected and looks to be a new brick in the Montblanc foundation with huge promise and potential. Big year for Montblanc, the manufacture certainly exceeded many expectations!
Click any image or heading below for our full report with images and details.
Last but by no means least in the 2014 Montblanc collection is the Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase. Offered in 39mm rose gold or steel case, it shares the aesthetic codes of the Meisterstück Heritage collection: the narrow bezel (rounded and polished), the caseband with a soft horizontal satin finish to it, the slightly cambered dial with a sunburst pattern, and the faceted, applied indices and an applied Roman numeral XII. Marking this piece’s unique flavor is its moonphase aperture combined with a date indicator, located at 6 o’clock. Automatic mechanical caliber, visible through a sapphire display back. Price will be around 11,500 euros ($15,500 at current f/x) in rose gold and a very attractive 3,490 euros ($4,750) in stainless steel.
If the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar is the capstone of the new Meisterstuck Heritage collection, then the Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Date is its foundation. This basic 3-handed watch + date delivers core functions in an elegant and understated form. It is only 9.7mm thick, with a 41mm diameter and a nice case featuring polished and brushed (see image below). The large blued second-hand is a nice touch of color against the silver sunburst dial and what is essentially a monotone dial. The movement is an automatic mechanical, visible through the caseback. The Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Date Automatic will be available starting in the summer of 2014 with a retail price of 2,090 EUR (about $3,000 at current f/x).
This new Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar is among the most exciting new watches unveiled at this year’s SIHH. For one, it the capstone of the gorgeous new Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage collection. For two, it is a gorgeous perpetual calendar in both of its variations: 39mm rose gold or 39mm stainless steel case. And for three, the steel model will retail at just under $13,000. Yes that’s right — a high quality Swiss perpetual calendar is now truly within reach of collectors of more modest means. This watch is a star in my book — my criticisms nothwithstanding — so let’s take a closer look, shall we.
Perhaps the most exciting segment of Montblanc’s 2014 portfolio is the new Meisterstuck Heritage collection. Meisterstück — German for Masterpiece — seems a fitting name (see “Did You Know” below for more). In fact these pieces — there are four of them being introduced — are among the highlights of all of SIHH 2014. And, like the legendary Montblanc fountain pen, these timepieces are distinguished by classic, elegant design and a high level of craftsmanship.
Let’s start now with a look at the new Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Pulsograph, a rose-gold cased beauty with a sunburst dial, pulsometer scale — and — one heck of a vintage-inspired manufacture monopusher column-wheel chronograph movement.
For 2014 Montblanc presents the most complicated timepiece yet in the Montblanc Villeret 1858 line-up, the ExoTourbillon Rattrapante. Montblanc’s Collection Villeret 1858 is its showcase for high end/high complication pieces. This wristwatch combines a split-second chronograph and Montblanc’s patented four-minute ExoTourbillon. The ExoTourbillon gets its name from its unique design: its pocket-watch sized balance wheel, in-house balance spring, lever and escape wheel oscillate outside the presence of the tourbillon carriage; on top is a graceful and “infinitely” curvacious bridge.
The new Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 100 is one of several exciting pieces from the maison this year. Montblanc is, by the way, under new leadership as well — it is former Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jerome Lambert’s first full year at the helm. With 1/100 second accuracy and similar color scheme, I immediately thought of the TimeWalker Chronograph 100 as a toned-down version of the ultra-exclusive (and uber pricey – ~$300k) Bi-Frequence 1000 which measures time to 1/1000 second.
Sport-watch maker Wryst is launching its second collection, the Shoreline, and here’s your first look. The Shoreline collection joins the four models in the brand’s almost-all-sold-out Airborne collection with a step up to (plated) precious metal cases. Three Shoreline models are being introduced, named the LX4 (steel case), the LX5 (pink gold) and the LX6 (yellow gold), with prices between $800 and $1100 which is just a touch higher than the price point on the Airborne collection. Each is a limited edition run of 99 pieces. More looks and pre-order info below.
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