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Posts Tagged ‘IWC’

SIHH 2010 is ON! Just to name a few….
by Kyle on January 17, 2010

Well watch fans this is it!  Just a quick note to tell you that all the action for the next few days will be over on Pereptuelle.com’s Official SIHH 2010 Forum.  The best thing for you to do is check in and check back often because these pages are being updated CONSTANTLY over the next few days.

Quick tips:

1) in any given thread, the newest watches posted will always be at the top.

2) EVEN BETTER – If you sign up / register with Perpetuelle.com, the threads are actually marked so that you can see which brands have new watches since you last viewed/checked in.  Makes it much easier to browse the forum!

Quick word – Don’t be surprised if you see just an image or two – we have so many watches and specs to post but sometimes the image is worth a thousand words!!  But don’t worry for all you detail-oriented  guys – we’ll be back around to fill in the specs or other interesting details as soon as we can!

For now, here’s just a few that caught my eye:

IWC Da Vinci Ceramic

Jaeger-leCoultre Extreme Labs

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix


Editor’s Note: The following is a guest post by watch enthusiast Eric James.  Eric is the IWC Moderator for Perpetuelle.com’s World Watch Forum.

I purchased this watch from an authorized dealer (AD) on 21 December 2009 while visiting my Uncle Jim in a different state than in which I live.

The IWC box

What does one think when he purchases his “grail” watch which, at retail, costs as much or more than most mid-sized cars? I thought many things, such as, “Am I crazy?”; “How will I explain this to the wife?”; “Absolutely no watch purchases in 2010 and sell the others that I have.” It made me feel better to have my Uncle there to help me make my decision. He has a saying “The Quality Remains Long After the Price is Forgotten.” I didn’t feel any hesitation when considering if I would buy the watch when the AD made me an offer that was hard to refuse, so I went for it. With all of the indications on the watch, I don’t really need any other except maybe a work-out watch for the gym.

Front better

The IWC reference 5022.13 Portuguese Perpetual Calendar (PPC) is 18 carat rose gold with a brown alligator leather strap and a rose gold deployment clasp. It has indications for the time, day, date, month, power reserve, moon phase, small seconds and the 4-digit year. The watch is self-winding with a 7-day power reserve (168 hours). The front sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides and the rotor can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back and is quite large. The watch is water resistant to 3 bar, which means according to IWC’s website, that I can be on the surface of a swimming pool wearing the watch (which I would never do).

The watch has a 42.3mm diameter and 15.6mm height. It is quite tall, similar to the Ingenieur, but not as heavy. It weighs in at 145 grams. Inside is the IWC calibre 51613 with Pellaton automatic winding system, 62 jewels and the movement beats at 21,600 beats per hour.

Seeing the movement through the caseback is quite interesting. With the rotor in a certain position, one can see, among other things, the balance wheel rotating, the balance spring, the bi-directional winding “hooks” and the escape wheel in its perpetual motion.

PPC back 2

The dial is well organized. The sub-dial at the 3 contains the date on the outer ring. Only the odd day numbers are printed whereas the even day numbers are dots. The inner dial contains the 7-day power reserve reading on a double track similar to a railroad. There is a small red warning indicator should the owner allow the power reserve to fall to 1 day or less. Since the small hands for these two indications are the same rose gold, although different lengths, the wearer could mistake the date indicator for the power reserve. A nice, lengthy look at the face will tell the correct date (and it is well worth the extra time).

The sub-dial at 9 contains the day indicator on the outer ring. Each day is indicated by its three letter abbreviation and each is separated by a dot, so there is no mistake when determining the day. The inner ring contains the small seconds function. The seconds hand rotates around a ring with a marker at each second with Arabic numerals at the tens and larger ticks at the fives. I am glad IWC included a seconds hand as I cannot see myself wearing a watch without some type of indicator showing that it is working. Furthermore, I think the small seconds is traditional and a perfect fit for this timepiece.

The sub-dial at the 6 shows the month. Each month is denoted by its 3-letter abbreviation. December is at the top and I am looking forward to seeing this indication change over the course of 2010.

The sub-dial at the 12 shows the moonphase, which according to IWC, will be accurate for 577 years. Outstanding! And, since I started wearing this watch 8 days prior to the start of 2010, I know there will be a rare full moon when 31 Dec 2009 rolls into 1 Jan 2010.

One last indication is the 4-digit year between the 7 and the 8. What is spectacular about this is that it won’t have to be changed until the year 2100. I suppose that some time after the beginning of 2100, the owner of this watch will send it back to IWC to have the 20 in changed to 21. More mysteriously, the box includes the replacement year indicators for the years 2200 through 2400 (a dial containing the numbers 22, 23 and 24). The proud owner will have to send the watch back to IWC to have the dial updated around the year 2200. This portends that the watch will have to go back IWC twice in a 100 year period, approximately. I am amazed that IWC considers it will still exist as a company in the next 4 centuries, but it is a nice touch.

DSC01298

So, back to the watch, the information the wearer needs most often can be read left to right and the information changing less often is read top to bottom.

This is my first (and will probably be my only) perpetual calendar. I find this is the quintessential timepiece. Why? Well, one can only wind the watch in the forward direction to the next day – you can never go back! (winding it backward will damage the movement and necessitate sending it back to the factory.) There are no pushers on the case like other perpetuals to get the indications correct. To set the correct time and other indications, the owner must be careful not to move past the current date, or the watch must be hacked to allow present time to catch up to the watch’s indication.

What makes this watch special, in a way, is that it can only show the current date, day, month, moonphase and year at the current second – just like time itself. Traveling across time zones is a different challenge (something I have considered recently). I used to live in Japan and travelled between Japan on the U.S. often. Now, if flying to Japan (12 or 13 hours ahead of the U.S. east coast and 19 hours ahead of Hawaii), setting the time on this IWC is as easy as moving the hands forward. However, on the return trip, one must be careful not to move the hands back until they reach 2 p.m. or later of the same day. As you can see from the red warning instructions included in the box, one must not move the hands backward earlier than 2 a.m. when the calendar function is completing its cycle. If I experience this problem, I’m sure I will either stop the watch and wait for time to “catch-up” or wait until 3 or 4 p.m. of the current day before moving the hands back to the correct time.

Warning Booklet

PPC start of 2010

Schaufhausen-based IWC is introducing 2 new variations in its famous Portuguese collection.  Although I like the color tones of the IWC Red Gold Chronograph, I prefer the horizontally aligned subdials of the IWC Portuguese Automatic.  Truth be told, though, I could see myself wearing either one of these watches on a daily basis.

IWC Portuguese Red Gold Chronograph

According to IWC, “The Portuguese seafarers were not only interested in navigation. For them, precision timing was also a priority, which is why it was essential that the Portuguese line also had room for chronographs. The superb appearance of the Portuguese Chronograph is as much a source of fascination to watch lovers as the 79350 calibre with its rate of 28,800 beats per hour. This guarantees the legendary precision you would expect of a watch with a provenance in marine travel. Needless to say, the Portuguese Chronograph comes with the features typical of a Portuguese watch: embossed Arabic numerals, tapering swallow-style hands and recessed subdials for the minutes and seconds counters.”

By my count this watch makes the seventh variation in the IWC Portuguese Chrongraph collection, and it can be yours for about $18,000.

40.9mm red gold case, black dial, IWC Caliber 79350 with 44h power reserve, on black crocodile strap

iwc portuguese red gold

28168

IWC Portuguese Automatic

Turning now to the Portuguese Automatic – this watch has a highly polished steel case with a silver dial and gold hand markers.  Like other variations in this collection, its has a 42mm case, classical small seconds hand and seven-day power reserve display.

This movement in this watch is IWC’s largest automatic movement on the market, the IWC Caliber 51011 calibre, with IWC’s exclusive Pellaton winding system, and 7 day power reserve.  Price is about $13,500.  By my count this is the fifth variation of the Portuguese Automatic.

28169w

28169

While still a work in progress, you can look at the other color variations of these great IWC Portuguese watches and see which one you like best in the new Perpetuelle.com Watch Library.  Here’s the link to the IWC Portuguese page.

A huge treasure trove of items formerly owned by now disgraced $50 billion-or-so Ponzi scheme ringleader and provacateur Bernie Madoff will be up for auction this weekend in New York.  Sure there will be all the furs, diamonds, and sports memorabilia you can handle (and even a few vintage duck decoys) – but my interest in this one-of-kind auction is, of course, the watches.  Now, being a man of means – that is, a man of means with OPM (other people’s money) – ole’ Bernie managed to assemble himself quite the watch collection.  In fact, The Wall Street Journal reports today that:  “A collection of more than 40 watches, including some women’s watches, 17 Rolexes and several Audemars Piguets, Franck Mullers and Jaeger-LeCoultres, will be auctioned off. ”  The Journal actually singles out one of the more notable big ticket watches, “an 18-karat yellow gold, black-faced vintage men’s Rolex, the Monoblocco, valued between $75,000 and $87,500…” and went on to quote Antiquorum Auctioneers SA Watch Director and Expert Julien Schaerer as saying “It’s a pretty rare watch and it’s pretty desirable” suggesting that an all original timepiece could fetch as much as $75,000 to $100,000.  Not bad for a Ponzi-scheme’s work, eh?

After just a few minutes reviewing the lineup one will see that Madoff had an incredible collection of vintage Rolex watches (I wonder what my vintage Rolex-wearing friends at Hodinkee think?), but he also had quite a few other nice modern and vintage watches as well – Patek Philippe, Blancpain, Hublot, Frank Muller, IWC, JLC….the list goes on and on.  As for all these, I can make not attestations to their authenticity (do you really want to take Madoff at his word?), nor what kinds of prices they may fetch (but don’t expect to steal any of them at bargain prices)…and so while online bids will be allowed, I would highly recommend you preview these watches in person before making a purchase.

Let’s take a closer look at some of the lots that look interesting, shall we?

LOT 237- ROLEX:

Gents 18ky vintage Rolex O.P. “Monoblocco” chronograph wristwatch; aka “Prisoner Watch”; domed plastic crystal; black dial w/ rose tri-sticks &; Arabic numerals; gold hands; polished bezel; 35mm round case; dk brown alligator strap (tang); Model 3525; 17 jewel Rolex mechanical winding mvmt; Serial 380223 (1945).

The meaning of the moniker “Prisoner Watch” – Rolex offered similar timepieces to prisoners of war in Germany during World War II, including those involved in “The Great Escape.”

Rolex Monoblocco

LOT 235- ROLEX:

Gents 18ky vintage Rolex Oyster chronograph wristwatch; Monochrome motif; gold dial w/ luminous sticks &; Arabics, 3 gold sub-dials; 35.1mm round case; Brown stitched Alligator strap (tang); 17 jewel Rolex Geneve mechanical winding mvmt; Case 4048; Serial 58105 (1935). Note: Professionally restored.

Rolex Oyster chronograph ref 58105

LOT 255 Audemars Piguet

Gents st.steel Audemars Piguet chronograph wristwatch; silver dial w/ 2 sub-dials (at 3 &; 9 positions); 38.81mm round case; brown alligator strap w/ AP deployant buckle; Automatic mvmt; Serial D99198.

Audemars Piguet chronograph

LOT 253- Patek Philippe

Gents 18kw Patek Philippe Annual Calendar wristwatch; black dial w/ silver Roman numerals; date at 6 position; 3 black sub-dials; syn saph crystal front &; back; 36.95mm round case; black alligator band w/ 18kw deployant buckle; Model 5035G; 35 jewel Patek Philippe automatic mvmt, Cal. 315/198, Serial 3059777.

patek philippe annual calendar

LOT 254- Audemars Piguet

Gents 18ky Audemars Piguet Huitieme chronograph wristwatch; crème colored dial &; sub-dials (3); date at 3 position; gold hands; 40.4mm round case; dkBrown alligator strap w/ 18ky AP double deployant clasp; Automatic mvmt; Serial C54966.

Audemars Piguet Huitieme chronograph

LOT 265- Jaeger-LeCoultre

Gents st.steel Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch; Master Control Collection, Master Geographic model (discontinued); 38mm round case; silver dial, day at 3/24 hour GMT at 6/power reserve at 10; polished bezel; brown crocodile band w/ deployant buckle; automatic mvmt; Case 142.8.92; Serial No 1401

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Master Geographic

All pictures and lot information from Gaston and Sheehan.  I would also note that the auction is being conducted by Gaston & Sheehan Auctioneers on behalf of the U.S. Marshal’s service (not Antiquorum), and I could not yet confirm if all the watches listed are Madoff’s or if other lots are also included (will let you know if not the case).

If you happen to go to the auction, would love to hear your thoughts.

IWC Laureus – Good Watch, Great Cause
by Kyle on September 25, 2009

Fresh off of a huge charity event (ONLY Watch 2009 auction raised about 2 million EUR to help fight Duschenne Muscular Dystrophy) I figured I would share another “good watch for a great cause” – the IWC Portuguese Automatic Laureus 2009:

illu_laureus_sport_02

The deep blue dial of this watch and matching strap really catches the eye, don’t you think?

IWC has been a long time supporter of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, which helps children and young people in mostly third world countries who have fallen victim to poverty, homelessness, war, violence, and other injustices.  This makes the fourth time that IWC has dedicate a watch to the Laureus cause – following on from the Portuguese Chrono-Automatic in 2006, the Pilot’s Watch Chrono-Automatic in 2007 and the Da Vinci Chronograph in 2008, IWC has chosen its Portuguese Automatic to carry its “support for sport” in 2009.

Limited to 1,000 watches, the 2009 IWC Portuguese Automatic Laureus Sport For Good Foundation Edition (Ref. IW5001) has a seven-day power reserve display, as well as a medallion on the back of the case showing the winning drawing from the “Team spirit” painting competition - 12-year-old K.D. Sriyan Chamod Dilshan from Sri Lanka:

illu_laureus_sport_01

 He illustrated the theme of “Team spirit” with a picture of four young people holding hands in a circle.  According to IWC, “The engraving is a reminder that part of the proceeds from sales of the watch will go towards projects for underprivileged children in troubled areas of the world.”

IWC Schaffhausen also created an illustrated book, “Let the Children Play”, in order to attract more attention to the considerable social involvement of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation which will accompany the watch..

illu_laureus_sport_04

Anyone who buys the Portuguese Automatic Edition Laureus Sport for Good Foundation will get a copy of the book, which shows 10 of the more than 65 projects supported by the Foundation to help underprivileged children.

Well done, IWC!

Perpetuelle.com Moderator James Bond recently attended a splendid “Get Together” (or “GTG” as the hard core watch enthusiasts refer to them) in Boston, MA.  The watches in attendance at this GTG were phenomenal and I wish I could have been there to enjoy them (I’m sure the people were nice, too).  In addition to a beautiful Rolex Red Daytona, the lineup of vintage watches was amazing.  I am sharing a couple teasers below, but you’ll need to click here to check out Mr. Bond’s full report on the Perpetuelle.com World Watch Forum.  Partial Listing of Watches in attendance include: Rolex “Red Daytona”, Vintage Ulysse Nardin, Vintage Omega Seamster 300, Vintage IWC, Pink dial Minerva, Omega Seamaster Broad Arrow, Chopard, Breguet Type XX, Omega SMP, (Vincent?) Calabrese.

Thanks for the great GTG report, James!

Rolex Red Daytona

Photo: James Bond

rolexredaytona

“Group Shot”

Photo: James Bond

botstongtg

Again, click here to check out Mr. Bond’s full report on the Perpetuelle.com World Watch Forum.