Tourbillon, Minute repeater with Westminster chime…

Girard-Perregaux Opera One

40mm white gold case, sapphire case-back,  GP9899 manual winding mechanical movement, Frequency: 3 Hz, Power reserve: 75+ hours

What you see above is a new variation of the “Opera One”, an watch that was introduced by Swiss luxury watch manufacture Girard-Perregaux in recent years.  Actually I not certain when the first Girard-Perregaux “Opera” watch was introduced (help me here, GP!), but there are now three variations – Opera One, Opera Two, and Opera Three (my personal favorite of the group).  These are all highly complicated watches that demonstrate the true prowess of Girard-Perregaux’s watchmakers.  With a price well into the six-digits and perhaps approaching $500,000, I think it is safe to say that the the exclusivity of this — in fact all the Opera watches — speak for themselves.

What makes this watch so expensive?  Mostly the fact that it has a tourbillon and a minute repeater — arguably two of the most complicated and challenging functions to integrate into a wristwatch.  And not just any minute repeater, but one that can play a Westminster chime.   A Westminster chime is a specific melody chimed by the watch on the hour using four hammers to play a melody of four different notes – I’m sure you’ve heard it before, it is quite popular on clocks and clocktowers.

This new Opera One watch differs from its predecessor in that it has a a semi-transparent dial.  GP describes it as a semi-transparent, tinted sapphire dial”, but what they mean by “tinted” is not clear to me from image.  I have mixed feelings about this new dial — while I do appreciate the sunburst pattern on the crystal, it seems somewhat dizzying.  But I suppose to have made it completely transparent would have meant this watch would not be much different from the first Opera One (REF : 99750-52-000-BA6A) except for the use of white gold rather than pink gold for the case.  Then again, a watch of this caliber is one you absolutely must see to appreciate.  And not just see, but hear!

Minute repeater hammers

If you look closely at the dial, you can see the three [white] golden bridges which run horizontally behind the crystal.  The “tourbillon with gold bridges” is in fact a signature of the brand and they have produced many watches built around this design.  The shape of the three gold bridges on this particular watch have been given a nicely stylised redesign in order to incorporate the chime mechanism, and if you look closely you can see three of the four chime hammers through the dial (the fourth appears when the chime sounds).  The lower bridge secures the tourbillon, which is fully visible at the 6 o’clock position.   As a reminder for any watch neophytes out there, a tourbillon is a rotating mechanism that is designed to eliminate the effects of gravity on the watch’s regulating organ, the escapement.

The case-back is also sapphire/transparent, but I am not yet able to obtain pictures from GP — I’d venture a good guess this watch looks beautiful on the back side.  But as I said above this watch is more about the sound than the sight.  While it is not my favorite Girard-Perregaux, it will most surely find a good home in the hands of a discerning collector who can appreciate its beauty.

The Zegna family and the Macaluso family – A Beautiful Parntership for a Watch

The Ermenegildo Zegna Centennial Limited Edition Watch, as manufactured by Girard-Perregaux

To celebrate its 100th anniversary, the prestigious Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna is launching a limited edition watch in partnership with another prestigious brand, Girard-Perregaux.  What can I say except that this collaboration yielded a beautiful outcome,as you can see below.  And here’s an interesting fact you may not have known:  Angelo Zegna, the father of the founder Ermenegildo, was a watchmaker by trade.  In keeping with Zegna’s Centennial celebration, only 100 pieces will be made.  The watch has a rose gold case and is 40mm in diameter, with date, small seconds, and month functions.  The overall design appears to be out of GP’s “1966″ collection, in fact it is very similar though not quite as complicated as GP’s 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time watch (ref: 49538-52-131-BK6A ).

Quite interesting to see Girard-Perregaux completely relinquish the dial to the Ermenegildo Zegna name, though I think that whe watch looks great with the Ermenegildo Zegna logo on it.  I don’t think this could have turned out much better as it seems to be a perfect representation of my perception of both brands – timeless, luxurious, high quality.  Now, where to get one?  The watch is to be available exclusively in the Top 20 Ermenegildo Zegna flagship stores worldwide.

Note the “EZ” etched crown (below)

Technical specifications

Reference: 49537

Case: Pink gold case

Diameter: 40 mm,  Height: 10.74 mm

Sapphire case-back adorned with the Ermenegildo Zegna centenary logo

Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux 3300-0042 automatic mechanical movement

Functions: Hour, minute, small second, annual calendar

Power reserve: minimum 46 hours

Alligator strap with clasp buckle adorned with the Ermenegildo Zegna logo

Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces

The new 2010 version of the “Tourbillon with three gold Bridges” features bridges in an openworked design as a tribute the the original design of the three bridges by Constant Girard-Perregaux (founder of the brand) in 1860.  The watch is in pink gold with a 41mm diameter.  It houses a GP 9600C self-winding mechanical movement with 48 hour power reserve.  Comes on a black alligator strap with deployant buckle.  Limited to 50 pieces.

Here’s a first look at what Girard-Perregaux will be unveiling at SIHH 2010 – the 1966 Chronograph.  The modestly sized 40mm case houses a column-wheel chronograph (a GPo3oCo automatic movement) with a 36 hour power reserve.  This particular model will be available in white gold and rose gold (pictured), and will sell for around $25,000.

The Girard Perregaux 1966 Collection was launched in 2006.  I think that some of GP’s best watches now come under the banner of this collection.  Still, for that kind of money, there are a lot of other watches that I would also be thinking about!  Anyway….here it is:

Rose Gold – Reference No. 49539-53-151-BK6A