How Complicated?  Complicated.

What to say about Franck Muller’s new Aeternitas Mega 4.  How about ‘Wow’.  I recall hearing some buzz about this watch on Twitter and Facebook late last year from several watch journalists who attended a live event in which this watch was unveiled (official FM release here).  Not to mention it is about 5 years in the making   But there is a bit more to the story that I need some help understanding.  Can you help?

For starters – back in June 2009 I wrote about Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Hybris Mechannica Grande  Duometre Grande Sonnerie watch (26 complications) as the “New King of Complications.”  In my article I listed IWC’s Il Destriero Scafusia (cir. 1993, 21 complications) and the Vacheron Constantin’s Tour de l’Ile (cir. 2005, 16 complications) as two watches that the JLC Hybris Mechannica Grande Sonnerie out-did.   Easy enough.  However I also listed the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega as watches that the JLC bested, and here is where it gets a bit confusing – complicated, one might say – because the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega article that I cited from the respectedHaute Horlogerie Journal was ostensibly referring to the Aeternitas Mega 4, but it was only noted as having 25 complications (and 1,500 parts).  Now it seems the Aeternitas Mega 4 has 36 complications (still about 1,500 components).  So how did it suddenly go from 25 to 36 with still the same number of parts?  Am I missing something or perhaps just making this too complicated?

If only I had the knowledge and desire to find out.    Instead I think I will just invite you to take a look at this watch and tell me it isn’t the most absurdly complicated, $2.7 million watch you have ever seen (note the 7 – yes 7 – pushers on the case!) – and leave it at that:

I, for one, am quite impressed at this mechanical masterpiece.

Franck Muller did provide a list of all the 36 complications and also a graphic to point out most of these functions.  I think they wanted to clearly lay the groundwork for claiming their “King of Complications.”  If you click here you can see the full list and read the press release from Franck Muller in which it lays claim to the “world’s most complicated wristwatch.

Oh, and if you care to share some insight into the development of the Aeternitas 4 and how it came to be 36 complications not 25, please do tell!

A huge treasure trove of items formerly owned by now disgraced $50 billion-or-so Ponzi scheme ringleader and provacateur Bernie Madoff will be up for auction this weekend in New York.  Sure there will be all the furs, diamonds, and sports memorabilia you can handle (and even a few vintage duck decoys) – but my interest in this one-of-kind auction is, of course, the watches.  Now, being a man of means – that is, a man of means with OPM (other people’s money) – ole’ Bernie managed to assemble himself quite the watch collection.  In fact, The Wall Street Journal reports today that:  “A collection of more than 40 watches, including some women’s watches, 17 Rolexes and several Audemars Piguets, Franck Mullers and Jaeger-LeCoultres, will be auctioned off. ”  The Journal actually singles out one of the more notable big ticket watches, “an 18-karat yellow gold, black-faced vintage men’s Rolex, the Monoblocco, valued between $75,000 and $87,500…” and went on to quote Antiquorum Auctioneers SA Watch Director and Expert Julien Schaerer as saying “It’s a pretty rare watch and it’s pretty desirable” suggesting that an all original timepiece could fetch as much as $75,000 to $100,000.  Not bad for a Ponzi-scheme’s work, eh?

After just a few minutes reviewing the lineup one will see that Madoff had an incredible collection of vintage Rolex watches (I wonder what my vintage Rolex-wearing friends at Hodinkee think?), but he also had quite a few other nice modern and vintage watches as well – Patek Philippe, Blancpain, Hublot, Frank Muller, IWC, JLC….the list goes on and on.  As for all these, I can make not attestations to their authenticity (do you really want to take Madoff at his word?), nor what kinds of prices they may fetch (but don’t expect to steal any of them at bargain prices)…and so while online bids will be allowed, I would highly recommend you preview these watches in person before making a purchase.

Let’s take a closer look at some of the lots that look interesting, shall we?

LOT 237- ROLEX:

Gents 18ky vintage Rolex O.P. “Monoblocco” chronograph wristwatch; aka “Prisoner Watch”; domed plastic crystal; black dial w/ rose tri-sticks &; Arabic numerals; gold hands; polished bezel; 35mm round case; dk brown alligator strap (tang); Model 3525; 17 jewel Rolex mechanical winding mvmt; Serial 380223 (1945).

The meaning of the moniker “Prisoner Watch” – Rolex offered similar timepieces to prisoners of war in Germany during World War II, including those involved in “The Great Escape.”

LOT 235- ROLEX:

Gents 18ky vintage Rolex Oyster chronograph wristwatch; Monochrome motif; gold dial w/ luminous sticks &; Arabics, 3 gold sub-dials; 35.1mm round case; Brown stitched Alligator strap (tang); 17 jewel Rolex Geneve mechanical winding mvmt; Case 4048; Serial 58105 (1935). Note: Professionally restored.

LOT 255 Audemars Piguet

Gents st.steel Audemars Piguet chronograph wristwatch; silver dial w/ 2 sub-dials (at 3 &; 9 positions); 38.81mm round case; brown alligator strap w/ AP deployant buckle; Automatic mvmt; Serial D99198.

LOT 253- Patek Philippe

Gents 18kw Patek Philippe Annual Calendar wristwatch; black dial w/ silver Roman numerals; date at 6 position; 3 black sub-dials; syn saph crystal front &; back; 36.95mm round case; black alligator band w/ 18kw deployant buckle; Model 5035G; 35 jewel Patek Philippe automatic mvmt, Cal. 315/198, Serial 3059777.

LOT 254- Audemars Piguet

Gents 18ky Audemars Piguet Huitieme chronograph wristwatch; crème colored dial &; sub-dials (3); date at 3 position; gold hands; 40.4mm round case; dkBrown alligator strap w/ 18ky AP double deployant clasp; Automatic mvmt; Serial C54966.

LOT 265- Jaeger-LeCoultre

Gents st.steel Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch; Master Control Collection, Master Geographic model (discontinued); 38mm round case; silver dial, day at 3/24 hour GMT at 6/power reserve at 10; polished bezel; brown crocodile band w/ deployant buckle; automatic mvmt; Case 142.8.92; Serial No 1401

All pictures and lot information from Gaston and Sheehan.  I would also note that the auction is being conducted by Gaston & Sheehan Auctioneers on behalf of the U.S. Marshal’s service (not Antiquorum), and I could not yet confirm if all the watches listed are Madoff’s or if other lots are also included (will let you know if not the case).

If you happen to go to the auction, would love to hear your thoughts.

Hey watch fans – I am back in the saddle after a (very) extended weekend of vacation, only to return to a big brouhaha in the watch world!  This one involving venerable watch designer Rodolphe Cattin and Franck Muller group CEO Vartan Sirmakes (among others who are surely  entangled) in what appears to be a bitter dispute over myriad things including the future of the Rodolphe brand’s position and priority within the group .  Most shocking to myself and others is just how public and personal this one has become!

Rodolphe Instinct Chrono 180 (2006)

What to make of all this?  Well, I’ve never been too close to the Franck Muller group and so I’m not exactly sure.  Except I can say with a reasonable degree of confidence that it is yet another “sign of the times” as the watch industry is undeniably suffering tremendously in certain corners and this is bringing pressure to bear and causing tempers to flare.  I certainly see no need to get in the middle of the big egos who are fighting this one out.

Anyway, this subject has by now been widely covered across the watch blogosphere, in particular appreciated this nice bit of perspective from industry insider Alon Ben-Joseph of Ace Jewlers. Also, just for fun and because it is an interesting and provocative read, I’m reprinting below the statement that was issued just yesterday by Rodolphe Cattin himself:

Press Release from Rodolphe Cattin:

Founder of the Rodolphe Montres & Bijoux watch company and of the Rodolphe & Co design studio – two entities owned by the Franck Muller group – Rodolphe Cattin has decided to quit all his operational activities within the group as of the end of October. He will remain a minority shareholder in both companies.

Rodolphe Cattin made the following comments regarding his decision:

“It is with a mixture of sadness and relief that I am leaving the group with which we became associated four years ago, because I no longer sense that the group has any wish to develop the brand bearing my name. The same is indeed true of all the other ‘small’ brands within the Franck Muller group.

The early days of our cooperation with the Franck Muller certainly did not suggest such an outcome. For the past four years, I have poured all my energy into this magnificent adventure and our tight-knit and motivated team was able to accomplish some excellent development work during the first two years of the partnership, resulting in particular in the Watch of the Year award won in 2006 for the Instinct Chrono model, followed by a second prize in 2008. However, these tokens of recognition did nothing to consolidate the Rodolphe brand’s position within the group. On a more global level, conditions have steadily deteriorated and it is now quite obvious that the group CEO, Mr. Vartan Sirmakes, has chosen to devote his energy and his efforts elsewhere. Despite many discussions on this issue, there are no longer any signs of a will to improve matters. Worse still, the group is currently trying to support its allegations that the “small brands” are responsible for the difficulties encountered by Franck Muller Watchland. It will be up to everyone to draw their own conclusions.

This kind of negative comment is merely the latest episode in a series of disappointments endured over almost two years now. Due to a range of strategy, quality and delivery-related issues, the Rodolophe brand no longer benefits from an environment conducive to its healthy development. Not to mention interpersonal conflicts and broken promises that are detrimental to daily interaction and make it impossible to maintain a trust-based relationship.

In light of these circumstances, I prefer to withdraw and in doing so leave my associates free to make their own choices, non-choices, decisions and non-decisions. I am above all a creative designer with little inclination for corporate politics, plotting and U-turns. And I strongly deplore the attitude and behaviour of some of my closest associates who may well see in my departure a chance to grab the spotlight.

Nonetheless, even at the end of this troubled period, I am extremely satisfied with the concept developed and with the aesthetic work undertaken by the teams that have supported me. The work is done and it is up to our successors to decide whether or not to develop and enhance the achievements to date.

While remaining a minority shareholder in the two Rodolphe Montres & Bijoux and Rodolphe & Co companies, my professional path is parting ways with the Franck Muller group at the end of the month. I maintain my creative soul, my entrepreneurial spirit and am truly relieved to be regaining my freedom”.

As with prior years, a few luxury watchmakers have issued special watches to commemorate the Singapore Grand Prix this year, and I thought it only appropriate and timely to share those with you now, as these are some special and exclusive (ie very pricey) watches.  If you did not know, the only night race on the FIA Formula 1 World Championship circuit is at the Marina Bay track in Singapore.  In 2008, the first year of the “night race”, Ferrari’s Felipe Massa (wearer of all things Richard Mille) had the pole position, but it was Renault’s Fernando Alonso who took the victory.  This year, it is McLaren-Mercedes’ Lewis Hamilton (wearer of all things Tag Heuer) who has the pole position but the winner is yet to be determined!

Franck Muller Conquistador Singapore Grand Prix 2009 Racing Chronograph

80 pieces in titanium, 80 in rose gold and titanium, and 6 exclusive models in pink gold with blackened titanium bezel (shown below in this order)

(photo credits: Horomundi)

2009 Chopard Classic Racing Chrono F1 Singapore Edition (Unique Piece)

18-carat rose gold, 45mm case, COSC-certified, 1960s Dunlop racing tyre-tread motif black rubber strap, with logo and commemorative mention of the 2009 F1 Singapore race featured on the back-case

Auctioned at the President’s Charity Challenge Luncheon for $35,000!

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16 Day Date Chronograph (Singapore Limited Edition)

(photo credit: puristspro)

If I missed any please let me know!

41 “Special One”s will be made, including 1 for “The Special One”

Franck Muller pays tribute to famous football coach (or soccer, if you live in the U.S.) and current Inter (Milan) manager José Mourinho with the launch, in a limited numbered edition of 41, of the Special One, a mechanical self-winding exclusive chronograph. The “Special One” is designed upon Muller’s signature Cintrée Curvex case,  crafted in 18k rose gold with a solid brushed finish.   The black dial, with Guilloché soleil decoration is detailed in pink gold consistent with the case; an oversized Special 1, also in gold, is in place of the 1-hour marker. With the exception of Special 1, all numbers are luminescent. At 3 is the chronograph minute counter; at 9, the small seconds. At 6 the date is revealed in a small window.  Priced at 35,000 EUR.

Picture above:  Franck Muller, José Mourhino, and Vartan Simarkes (photo credit: Espiral do Tempo)

Picture above:  Franck Muller with his José Mourhino autographed sport coat, and José Mourhino with his Franck Muller “Special One” Watch (photo credit: Espiral do Tempo)

You can see some good shots of the watch during the first 20 seconds of this video about Mourhino’s visit to Franck Muller Watchland in Switzerland (and more about the visit if you speak Portuguese):

[via io sto con Mancini and Espiral do Tempo]

Only Watch is a charity auction of unique watches created by many of the most important watch brands in Switzerland. This exceptional event is held every two years in Monaco during the Monaco Yacht Show and is under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert 11. All the proceeds from Only Watch go to support research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The next Only Watch auction is organized in close collaboration with Patrizzi & Co and the Monaco Yacht Show, and will take place on 24 September 2009.

Participating brands include Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, BNB Concept, Bovet Fleurier, Breguet Montres, Cartier, Corum Montres, De Bethune, Delacour, Franck Muller, Frédérique Constant, Glashütte Uhrenbertrieb, Hermès, Hublot, Jaquet Droz, Louis Vuitton, Maximilian Büsser & Friends, Mont Blanc, Omega, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Richard Mille, Swatch, Tag Heuer, Tourneau Timepieces, Ulysse Nardin, Urwerk, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels, Zenith International.

Below is a mosaic of their “pieces uniques”  – you can view larger images and a quote from each respective brand about their 2009 “Only Watch” contribution HERE.