“Eventually, you reach a point when you want what others don’t have,” says Dominique Bernaz, director of Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers.  Indeed.  Vacheron’s Atelier Cabinotiers is the manufacture’s special-order division established in 2006 to serve its most exclusive clients (more on Atelier Cabinotiers here).  Be it a unique dial or an entirely proprietary movement, Atelier Cabinotiers can make it happen.  For a multi-million dollar price tag, of course.

It goes without saying that at this high level of watch collecting, discretion is part of the unwritten rule of conduct.  In other words, it is likely that the existence of most of the spectacular commissioned creations of Atelier Cabinoteirs are not widely known.  They do not it make it into a press release or watch magazine — they exist solely for the pleasure and enjoyment of their wealthy owners.   What a nice surprise and pleasure it is then that the owner of this watch, the Vacheron Constantin Philosophia, has agreed to allow a glimpse of his (or her) amazing watch over at Vacheron’s self-hosted discussion forum.

Vacheron Constantin Philosophia

(pre-production graphic)

Minute repeater, Moon Phase, Power Reserve, Tourbillon

The word on  The Hour Lounge is that the owner’s original idea for this piece was to have a tourbillon minute repeater with no hands.  For reasons unknown to me, though, the owner obviously decided to add one hand (it advances in 24h cycles) and a moonphase indicator.  The base movement is Vacheron’s Caliber 2755, appropriately modified.  Most other details of the watch remain unknown, but I think the price was easily >$1 million.

Vacheron Constantin Philosophia, No. 1/1 (Un/Un)

personalised power reserve indicator on the caseback showing the Big Dipper constellation

Pretty cool, eh?

Related posts:

1. Vacheron Constantin Malte Moon Phase and Power-Reserve
2. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph for Turkey
3. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph for Greece

I’ve long been a fan of Chopard’s Mille Miglia collection of watches, and today I’ve got a special edition “all-black” DLC Mille Miglia watch to show you.  Overall, the Mille Miglia timepieces are an excellent embodiment of auto-racing sport and culture, not to mention all-around cool looking watches.  This particular model is the results of a collaboration between Chopard and The Hour Glass, a famous group of Singapore-based watch boutiques celebrating 150 years in 2010. The watch is limited to just 150 pieces worldwide, but you can only buy it through the aforementioned Hour Glass.  Comes with the rubber strap (pictured) and also a black calf-strap with orange stitching. Available August 2010.  No word on price, but I would guess upwards of $10,000.

Chopard Mille Miglia Speed Black Power Control

44mm black DLC (diamond-like carbon) case Orange accents and power reserve gauge

On a side note, this is the second high end boutique/brand collaboration I recall in recent months (see:  Urwerk White Shark for Chronopassion Paris and The Hour Glass).  I’m not quite sure how these arrangements work, but I would guess that in these instances the boutiques are somehow sharing the costs (production, marketing or otherwise) of having these pieces produced exclusively for their particular boutiques.  And given the results that such collaborations can produce, I like these partnerships!

Also — You can check out all our Chopard coverage by clicking HERE>>

Related posts:

1. 2010 Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono
2. Baselworld 2010: Chopard L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon
3. Chopard Alfa Romeo Anniversary Watches

It goes without saying that for each watch featured here daily on the Perpetuelle.com Blog, there are several more we are not able to write about (for any number of reasons).  But that’s not to say you can’t easily keep up on all of the latest watch news, because you can….by visiting the Press Release Feed on Perpetuelle.com’s World Watch Forum.  Yes, the Perpetuelle.com Press Release Feed features official press releases from a diverse lineup of watch brands —> and it’s only a click away <—

So — here is the news for the week of August 23, 2010 (in no particular order) that was not already featured here on the blog – click through if you are interested in full details on any of these:

• Lamborghini Blancpain Super Trofeo & Le Mans Series
• Hysek Opens Flagship Store in Singapore
• Jaeger-LeCoultre Book: Extreme Watches for an Extreme World
• New Swiss Brand: Codex
• Franc Vila FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minutes Repeater, Superligero Concept
• Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Tourbillon
• The Hublot Polo Gold Cup Gstaad
• BALL Trainmaster Worldtime COSC
• Romain Jerome honoured by India’s prestigious Watch World Awards 2010

No related posts.

This is a cool new watch from Edox, specifically it is part of the brand’s WRC (World Rally Championship) Chronorally collection.  While the also WRC-inspired Edox Chronorally (Ref 36001 3 NIN) watch has a slight edge in my book due to its the cool “rally racing” dial layout, I would be pretty happy wearing this watch because it has a better movement (automatic mechanical rather than quartz) and arguably better looking color scheme.  Though at 45mm + oversized pushers, it may be a bit too much metal for my wrist.  Ah well.  Price is $3,100.

Edox WRC Rally Chronograph Automatic Watch (Ref 01110 3 NIN)

45mm stainless steel case (17.25mm thick), automatic mechanical movement, rubber strap

Related posts:

1. Edox Chronorally (Video)

I want to bring to your attention a special report by master watchmaker Antoine Preziuso that I recently posted on the Perpetuelle.com World Watch Forum (click here to view the feature story).

Antoine Preziuso is the only watchmaker to use meteorites to create entire cases for his watches.  He’s also made some crazy watches such as the Antoine Preziuso Mega Tourbillon, but what he does with meteorite rock is really quite impressive — here is just a glimpse:

If you want to learn more about Antoine Preziuso, I highly recommend Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking by Michael Clerizo (ISBN 0500514852 / 978-0500514856, available for purchase on Amazon.com) as Preziuso has an entire chapter dedicated to his work.

Again, click here to check out the Perpetuelle Special Report: ANTOINE PREZIUSO AND HIS TIMELESS LOVE STORY WITH METEORITES.

Related posts:

1. Antoine Preziuso Mega Tourbillon

Well-known watch journalist Ian Skellern (give him a follow on Facebook @underthedial) did a nice job of putting together this short film on the new Urwerk UR-202 White Shark.   You can see more photos and read my prior coverage of the timepiece here, but be sure to watch this video first.  Thanks for taking us up close and personal with the Great White, Ian!

Related posts:

1. Urwerk White Shark (UR-202)
2. Urwerk “Rare Species” White Shark UR-202 Coming Soon
3. Revealed: Urwerk’s new UR-CC1 King Cobra

Hey — is that Marcos Heguy (called out below) accepting a Hublot watch?!?!  Or is it just TEAM BANQUE BARING BROTHERS STURDZA SA graciously accepting a prize for winning the 2010 Hublot Polo Gold Cup Gstaad — a Hublot Big Bang Polo De Paris.  I saw this pic and I had to laugh and say “what Piaget will have to say about this?”  After all, they did make a Heguy, one of the very best polo players in the world, his very own Polo FortyFive!  LOL!

I say this all lightheartedly — I don’t think Piaget has anything to worry about….or do they?

click here for more official event photos

Related posts:

1. Piaget Polo FortyFive Marcos Heguy Limited Edition
2. Piaget Polo FortyFive Veuve Clicquot Classic Chronograph
3. Hublot’s UNICO is Revealed! A first look at Hublot Caliber HUB1240

It was in 2008 that Franc Vila launched his Superligero Concept collection.   The common element in all the timepieces introduced under this collection is the use of Lightnium, an aluminium-lithium based alloy used in state of the art aeronautical engineering — generally speaking, the alloy is super light but super strong.  According to Vila, Lightnium also offers good “sonority” aka it makes the 5 minute repeater mechanism sound very nice.   Like all Franc Vila watches, these watches are very extreme, but cool, looking (have you seen the EVOS 8 Estrella Roja?).  But for the right personality (and bank account–prices start around $15,000 and up from there), they will be a perfect match.  This particular model is the FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minute Repeater.  It has a gnarly looking skeletonized dial that chimes every 5 mins.  Not sure on price, but probably well past $30,000.  Limited to 88 pieces.

Be sure to check out my other coverage of Franc Vila watches, here.  I hope to one day meet Franc Vila the man — he seems like a very passionate watch guy.

Also — stay tuned for my video review of the Franc Vila FVa8 Chronograph — Dog days of summer and other activities have it on the backburner for now, but just as soon as I allocate the time to edit the video I will get it posted.

Related posts:

1. FRANC VILA FVa15 Column Regulator Automatique with Meteorite and Sapphire Glass Dial
2. Baselworld 2010: Franc Vila EVOS Cobra Watches
3. FRANC VILA FVt28 Jumping Hours Automatique “Ivy Edition”

Favorite of the house and oh-so-hot Swiss watch brand Linde Werdelin announced the launch of its first women’s watch today — a 51 piece limited edition run being called “The White Watch”.  Far as I can tell, we are talking a simple change of color to the standard 3-Timer model and that’s about it.  LW says the model has been softened up a bit but really the modifications seem subtle.  Also, so far as I can tell the size of the watch is unchanged from the previous (men’s) models – 46mm x 49mm x 12mm, though LW is quick to point out that it “wears like a 42mm”.  Not that I am complaining — I like the look of a 42mm watch on a feminine wrist, particularly a watch like this:

Linde Werdelin White Watch

Limited to 51 pieces worldwide, get yours soon at LindeWerdelin.com for €4,680 (taking wait-list now)

Seems to me that the launch of this watch is all about about having a feminine, hip and sexy color looking 3-Timer for the ladies who have been asking for such a version, and kudos to LW for delivering.

Come to think of it, this watch would pair up nicely with the some of the fair ladies one might see hanging poolside on oh, say, a Saturday at Wet Republic (caution: BSFW)…don’t you think? 

Related posts:

1. Linde Werdelin 3-Timer Singapore Racing Series
2. Watch Review: Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Svend Andersen
3. Unveiled: LINDE WERDELIN Hard Black DLC II

Chanel brings us this special J12 “101″ in celebration of one of the largest buildings in the world, Taipei 101.  Only 101 of the special black ceramic J12’s have been made, available exclusively in the Chanel shop in the Taipei 101 tower for approximately 3900 EUR ($5,000).   The watch is a standard Chanel J12 in every regard except the specially marked red “101″ on the bezel.  In other words not too exciting, but it does give us a chance to check out one of the coolest buildings in the world!

Setting this otherwise unremarkable watch aside for a moment, don’t you just love mega-tall buildings?!?  I know I do.  The feats of engineering and construction that go into building these structures are semi-miraculous, and of course Taipei 101 is no exception.   I recall watching a very cool show on Discover Channel about how this building was made and I remember being especially awed and inspired by the 660 ton turned mass damper stabilization system.

Discovery Channel Video on Taipei 101 and its “Damper” System

Taipei 101  In All Its Beauty and Splendor

Until the erection of the Burj Khalifa in Dubai in 2010, Taipei 101 held the title of “tallest building in the world.”  Fun reading over at Wikipedia:  List of Tallest Buildings and Structures in the World.

Related posts:

1. Chanel J12 Tourbillon Retrograde Mysterieuse Concept Watch
2. Chanel J12 Marine Watches
3. One-of-a-Kind Chanel J12 Joallerie

It took Omega this long to come up with this?  Yes, another boring “me-too” watch app for the iPhone.  Breitling Panerai, IWC, Bell & Ross, etc. etc.  are no better and their iPhone apps are BORING as well.  Which brings me to the…

Joke of the Day

Q:  What is a Swiss luxury watch brand’s idea of e-commerce?

A:  Having a “Find Nearest Authorized Dealer” function in its iPhone App.

Related posts:

1. OMEGA opens its 51st Boutique; Continues to Streamline Distribution
2. OMEGA De Ville 4-counters Co-Axial for Gents and OMEGA De Ville Co-Axial Chronometer for Ladies
3. Liquidmetal Technology, Apple And Omega

Florence, Italy-based watch designer Giuliano Mazzuoli has unveiled his Contagiri 8C Competizione watch.   Mazzuoli’s Contagiri collection — “Contagiri” means tachometer when translated from Italian – is a tribute to the world of motor racing with two out its four versions dedicated to Alfa Romeo.  8C Competizione is a specific model made by Alfa Romeo, and the dial of the watch closely resembles the dashboard instruments of this automobile, as you can see below.

Giuliano Mazzuoli Contagiri 8C Competizione Watch

44mm stainless steel+black DLC, automatic mechanical movement, black rubber strap with matching metal buckle, limited edition of 500

The central hour hand on the watch does not make a full rotation, instead after sweeping from 1-to-12 it jumps retrograde (backwards) 270° back to hour #1.  The watch does not use a crown to wind the watch or to set the time, instead relying upon a lever similar to a “gear shift” through which the functions usually done through the crown are operated.  Note also a triangular aperture at the 6 o’clock position (now showing four-leaf clover) which marks the position of the gear with number “1″ indicating the position to wind the watch, and number “2″ indicating the position to set the time.

Alfa Romeo Contagiri 8C Competizione Sportscar

sells for ~$200,000

Learn more at http://www.giulianomazzuoli.com

No related posts.

If you are a die-hard watch fan, then you know all about “watch spotting”.  I am yet to hang out with a watch guy who does not also confess to checking out the wrists of his fellow co-workers or countrymen in the office, on the sidewalk, at the stoplight, etc. etc.  Often watch spotting is done discreetly — but not always, as you will see in a moment.  It is likewise fun finding oneself on the receiving end of a watch spotting (i.e. you are asked “Hey, what’s that on your wrist?”).

This leads me to my focus today, which is an exceptional collection of wrist shot photos taken by a gent who was recently vacationing in the Cote d’Azur (aka the French Riviera aka Nice/Cannes/Monaco/etc.).  Cote d’Azur truly is a “lifestyles of the rich and famous” scene — from the huge yachts to the Ferraris and Lambos right down to the Audemars Piguet and Patek’s on the wrists, it’s pretty much full of people with off-the-charts wealth.

The fellow who runs “How’s Hamp” (cool blog, btw) did an excellent job of photographing and documenting his watch spottings for people to enjoy.   His album mostly includes “Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille and Patek Philippe watches but a few Rolex and Panerai’s are featured too.”   I have no doubt that you will enjoy the photos.  Click through here to see “How’s Hamp:  Watch Spotting in Cote d’Azur.”

Also while we are on the topic, I want to also quickly mention that the enjoyment of seeing “who’s wearing what” is what led me to create “Wrist Shot”- the first Facebook App for watch owners, collectors & enthusiasts.  The app was launched earlier this summer but is still in development phase (we are working on the enhanced version now).  You can read more about Wrist Shot HERE or check it out on Facebook HERE.

Finally, let me give a special thanks to the man himself (Hampus) for the head’s up — now go check out his “Watch Spotting in Cote d’Azur!!!

No related posts.

Here’s a new and neat single-hand watch from a little-known German watch brand MeisterSinger.  Launched in 2002, MeisterSinger is a brand known for its single-hand watches that I liken to a more “relaxed” way of telling time.  So what’s up with the single-hand design?  Not much, really, but if you need help read on and I’ll tell you how to tell time.  This particular model is a special edition watch featuing a 43mm black PVD case and a bronze hand with matching bronze-color dial decoration.   Like other MeisterSinger watches, I’m pretty sure the movment is an ETA 2824-2 Swiss-made automatic but I need to confirm this.  Price is about $1,900 (1450 EUR), but distribution is limited so if you want to get one here in the United States you’ll probably need to drop an email to order-information@meistersinger.net.

MeisterSinger No. 3 Special Edition

Bronze Time Hand / 43mm Black PVD Case

Telling Time

The twelve-hour dial is divided by 144 markers. Each marker represents 5 minutes.  The 15-minute, 30-minute and the hour marker are increasingly bolder and in combination with the distinctive pointed hand make it easy to read the time.  It is 15 past 10 on the watch shown:

MeisterSinger Chief Designer Manfred Brassler appropriately reminds us that “timekeeping began with a single hand – sundials, the first church steeple clocks, the old Breguet subscription watches. For the people in the late 17th century, a second hand must have seemed as strange as a single one is to us now.”

Thus while this minimalistic method of telling time might seem unconventional by today’s standarsd, I think it should suit the modern luxury watch wearer and his iPhone 4 just fine!

No related posts.

Let’s take a closer look at Liquidmetal Technologies (“Liquidmetal”), a company that has been getting a lot of attention this week, most recently by our friends over @Hodinkee.  You may think this is somewhat off topic but I promise you that if you read on you will see that I have quite nicely tied this story into the world of luxury watches

Liquidmetal Technologies is the only bulk producer of what are known as “amorphous alloys” i.e. liquidmetal.  Readers of this blog will recognize “liquidmetal” for its use in the special edition Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal, the watch which this blog was the first to discover and report on back in October 2, 2009.  I later reviewed the watch on June 8, 2010.

What you may not know is that Liquidmetal Technologies is actually a publicly traded company which trades on the pink sheets (LQMT.PK) aka a penny stock.  By many measures the company has not performed well in the last year or so – its sales for 2009 were approximately $14.7 million, down from $22.7 million in 2008.  2009 net income was a paltry $0.3 million, though an improvement from an $8.3 million loss in 2008.

I wonder if the company’s financial performance has anything to do with its obviously short-sighted and ill-fated attempt to market its technology for use in what would surely be insanely over-priced flash drives.  To see what I mean, check out this video, which by the way reminds me of TAG Heuer’s laughable attempt at sellling its own 8gb flash drives for $360 a pop!

Liquidmetal Flashdrive Video

But wait a minute, wait a minute—-WHAAAT?  Did you catch some of those luxury brand logos in the video?

Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Piaget Liquidmetal Flash Drives — WTF?!?!?

OK that is just weird, isn’t it?

Let’s get back to my discussion about recent events involving Liquidmetal –

The company’s stock had long traded for less than a quarter per share until August 6, 2010 — the day after the company licensed its liquidmetal patents (on an exclusive basis for the field of consumer electronic products) to none other than Apple .  However — interestingly and perhaps questionably — the company did not issue a press release announcing the deal with Apple.  It was not until August 9, 2010 that Liquidmetal’s agreement with Apple was formally filed with the U.S. Securities and Exchange commission via Form 8-K and the story was picked up by leading tech blogs CrunchGear, Engadget, and Gizmodo.  But the word was obviously out on August 6, as evidenced by the stock action:

So why all the hype about Liquidmetal? Well, it turns out the company does have some pretty cool technology:

Liquidmetal vs. Titanium vs. Steel Demonstration Video

The thing is, though, I wouldn’t get too excited about seeing liquidmetal used broadly anytime soon.  Why?  It’s expensive.  As much as $1,500 an ounce expensive.  This is because of some of the exotic raw materials such as beryllium and platinum that are used in some of the Liquidmetal alloys.

The high cost is also why Omega has indicated that it does not plan to use liquidmetal on a broad basis, either.

This said, I would not doubt the genius of Apple to figure out a way to mainstream the technology.  It is also interesting to me that this technology found its way into the world of luxury watchmaking, thus giving me a reason to write about it!

Related posts:

1. Omega Liquidmetal Planet Ocean Review
2. The Making of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal (Video)
3. OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean “Liquidmetal” – A Ceramic-bezel Planet Ocean is here

Just got word of a couple cool new Linde Werdelin watches.  These special edition 3-Timer Racing series are based on LW’s 3-Timer GMT watch and will be sold at haute horlgerie retailer E’collezione in Singapore as well as at LindeWerdelin.com.  Price is SGD10,800 at E’collezione and €5,280 on the website.  Limited to just 9 in each color and offered in one of the most avid watch collecting markets in the world (Singapore), I don’t think these will last long so LW fans you better get on it!

It is no coincidence that these racing-inspired models come just in time for the always popular Singtel Singapore Grand Prix, Formula 1’s famous night race which will take place September 24-26, 2010.    More broadly, I’m excited about these watches because my guess is that this will be just the first of several new “Racing Series” watches we see from Linde Werdelin…stay tuned!

Linde Werdelin 3-Timer Singapore Racing Series

46mm x 49mm x 12mm case, ETA 2893 – A2 mechanical automatic movement, 24 hour bidirectional turning bezel, model name “Racing” engraved on caseback

Close Up

Be sure to check out my other coverage of the always exciting Linde Werdlin brand here.

Related posts:

1. Linde Werdelin White Watch
2. Linde Werdelin Unveils Two Spectacular SpidoLite SA’s
3. Unveiled: LINDE WERDELIN Hard Black DLC II

In what is the last of several new special edition watches from IWC for 2010, here’s a first look at the new IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar, a “boutique exclusive” watch that will be available this fall.   It is a loud and proud pilot watch, and I like the yellow-orange color scheme on the dial (and the strap).  As for other aspects of the watch, well, as I have said many times I am not a fan of cut-off numerals on watch dials, and this watch has many of them.  Also, I am not at all pleased with IWC’s laziness with the “generic” limited edition numbering on these pieces – each piece will be engraved “ONE of 250″ (rather than “1 of 250″ “2 of 250″ etc.).  I had the same complaint with the IWC Big Blue Pilot Watch and I hope this does not become common practice for all of IWC’s limited editions.  They should know better than to cut corners like this.

So all in all, I guess this watch is not for me, but what about you?  Drop a comment below.

Yellow IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar (Boutique Exclusive)

46mm stainless steel case, black alligator strap w/matching deployment buckle

Limited to 250 globally.  Price: $28,000

Close Up

By the way, if you missed my previous posts on the aforementioned IWC special edition watches for 2010, be sure to check out the Red Gold Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Double Moonphase, the Big Blue Pilot Watch, the IWC Zidane Ingenieur and the IWC Cousteau Aquatimer Chronograph.

Related posts:

1. Red Gold IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Double Moonphase (Boutique Exclusive)
2. “Boutique Only” IWC Blue Big Pilot Watch

Behold the new limited edition Panerai Luminor Marina  福 (“Fu”) – aka PAM 366.  I gotta say right up front that I am lukewarm on this watch and I find it to be a questionable choice by Panerai for a limited edition piece.  The reason for this watch seems to be that, after five successful years in the market, Panerai wants to show that it respects and understands the Chinese culture.  Or something like that.  I fail to see the connection, but it is entirely possible that I in fact do not understand the Chinese culture like Panerai does.

Further adding to the oddity of the release is its price and its production.  1,500 pieces will be made — a pretty good size run for a LE – and priced at 29,900 Renminbi, or about $4,400.  In other words, relatively high production / relatively low price.  What?!?

To me, this watch unfortunately comes off as an over-eager kowtow to China.

Panerai Luminor Marina “Fu” China

44mm polished stainless steel case, movement is the COSC-certified OP II calibre (hand-wound)

Chinese character “Fu” at 6 o’clock

The watch is to be launched in mid-August at Officine Panerai boutiques in Shanghai and Beijing as well as selected network of authorized China dealers and will eventually be available in all Panerai boutiques in Greater China.

The Fu according to Panerai

The concept of the time-honored Chinese character Fu (good fortune or happiness) is explained in ancient Chinese writings in five aspects: longevity, prosperity, health, virtue and a well-ended life. People in China have been posting decorations of Fu (usually written on red paper) on their door fronts since the time of Southern Sung Dynasty. To others, the character speaks of ones best wishes; to oneself, it is an expression of the pursuit of happiness. Numerous set phrases with positive meanings consist of which and they signify the Chinese peoples aspiration after good lives. As time goes by, the meaning of Fu is further extended and expanded; yet, the posting tradition persists as the term never ceases to implicate being blessed and protected and having good fortune. Officine Panerai has therefore infused the character into the dial to create a perfect fusion of Chinese tradition elements and Italian classic design. It is also the wish of the brand that every wearer will receive this valuable blessing and be grateful.

Related posts:

1. Panerai Radiomir Regatta 2010 (PAM 343)
2. SIHH 2010 Panerai Composite Marina Militare PAM 339
3. Panerai and Ferrari Part Ways; Watch Values Plummet, Opportunity Knocks?

Like the Zenith Elite Ultra Thin 681 that I showed you back in March, these new Zenith “Captain” watches are the latest offering in Zenith’s Elite collection.   As you can see the watches are, well, plain.  The $3,000-$4,000 price tag is not out of line for a watch with an in-house movement (as is the case here), but I’m just not feeling the love for this watch at such a price.  Perhaps there is a subtle sophistication that I am missing.  Or not.  Feel free to weigh-in with a comment.

Zenith Elite Captain Central Seconds

40mm case (stainless steel or rose gold), sapphire display back, water resistance 50 meters, automatic Zenith caliber Elite 670.

If I were going to buy a Zenith, I’d much prefer something like the Zenith El-Primero Striking 1/10 Chronograph. Granted, the Striking 1/10 is at least 2x-3x the price of the Elite Captain, but I find it many times more interesting than the watch shown here.

Related posts:

1. Zenith Ultra Thin Elite 681
2. Zenith Christophe Colomb
3. Baselworld 2010: Zenith El-Primero Foudroyante Chronograph

What a nice surprise today from Geneva-based Frederique Constant — a partnership with renowned cigar maker Cohiba for a limited edition watch and humidor!  Right now I can think of few things better than putting on the limited edition Frederique Constant watch you see below and smoking that Cohiba!

This watch is truly one of the first Frederique Constant watches I find myself being excited about.  For some reason it is hard to put my finger on, I often find that the brand’s watches — though nicely designed and appropriately priced — lack the sort of character or vibrancy that make me want to go out and buy one.  But not this time — the watch has a distinctive and very classy look to it that I really like.  And of course it comes on a “tobacco-brown” strap:

My only quibble is that the numeral “XI” (11) that is cut-off by the Frederique Constant logo looks a bit awkward — I might have preferred if the logo placement were just a few millimeters higher thus avoiding the intersection with the numeral.  Also, I think the I would prefer to have seen the partnership more discreetly memorialized with a “Cohiba” engraving on the caseback rather than the logo on the dial.  But overall, I think the watch looks pretty good.

Available exclusively in the U.S., the watch will be presented in a beautiful box that doubles as a humidor.  I don’t think the cigars are included, but that is a problem that can be quickly remedied by your local tobacconist.  How cool it must be to have a fresh tobacco smell imparted upon your watch every time you take it out of the humidor/case!

Production will be limited edition to just 188 numbered pieces in steel and 188 pieces in rose gold plated.  No word yet on price.

** Update** These limited edition sets (watch + humidor) are phenomenally priced at $1,750 for the Rose Gold Plated version (FC-325CW4C24) and $1,650 for the steel version.

Frederique Constant and Cohiba will be launching these exclusive timepieces during a dedicated event on September 22^nd, 2010 at Club Macanudo in New York City.

Related posts:

1. ONLY WATCH 2009 – 34 One-of-a-Kind Watches

The William Baume collection is Baume & Mercier’s new and very respectable effort at offering a high-end “haute horlogerie” collection in addition to its regular entry- and mid-level luxury watches.   The lineup will include limited edition models with high end functions & design such as “ultra-thin”, “retrograde seconds”, and “jumping hours”.   The watch I want to show you today is the Jumping Hours.

The William Baume Jumping Hour displays  minutes and seconds on the two  subdials, while the “jumping hour” window is positioned at 12 o’clock (see below).   Available in two color schemes (silver or black on a rose gold case), these watch dials are nicely adorned with a crossweave guilloché motif and sunburst satin-brushed finish on the subdials.  Price is $19,900 per piece.  Limited to 40 in each color.  Available September 2010.

William Baume Jumping Hour (Ref M0A08857)

41mm red gold case (9.6mm thick), Dubois Depraz 14400 movement

The modestly-decorated automatic mechanical movement is featured through a sapphire crystal case-back:

And here’s a closer look at the black-dialed version.  Note that the time is showing approximately 8:09.  The way that a jumping hour watch works is that with the turning of each our, the hour numeral will jump ahead to the appropriate hour (as opposed to the gradual sweep of a hand if it were a normal watch).

Did You Know?

William Baume Collection – A tribute to 180 years of Baume & Mercier

It was in 1830 that the “Frères Baume” watch comptoir horloger (watch dealership) was founded in Les Bois, a village in the Swiss Jura region. In 1918, the firm was renamed Baume & Mercier and relocated to Geneva, under the leadership of William Baume, representing the third generation of one of the most important watchmaking Houses of the era.

Right from the time of its founding, the Baume brand distinguished itself by the excellence and innovation of its timepieces. It won six gold medals in the World Fairs of Paris, London, Philadelphia and Geneva with its complication watches – tourbillons, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars – along with a number of prizes in the timing competitions held by the Kew Teddington Observatory near London, the most renowned of the period. It was there that in 1892, a keyless chronometer with tourbillon escapement by Baume won the absolute precision record that was to remain unequaled for ten years. Such is the rich watchmaking history that the William Baume Collection now celebrates by offering a contemporary expression of the haute horlogerie models that are an integral part of the Baume & Mercier heritage.

William A. Baume (1885-1956)

William Baume shaped the modern destiny of the Baume & Mercier brand by resolutely leading the “Frères Baume” company, founded in 1830 by his grandfather Louis Victor Baume and his great-uncle Célestin Baume, into the 20^th century.

An exceptionally talented watchmaker brimming with innovative ideas in the early 20^th century, William Baume joined forces in 1918 with Paul Mercier to create the Baume & Mercier brand in Geneva. The new company brilliantly combined traditional and contemporary watchmaking, drawing inspiration from the latest technical and aesthetic trends that it interpreted in complete harmony with the rules of watchmaking craftsmanship.

Loyal to his forefathers’ determination to “create only watches of the highest quality”, William Baume perpetuated their expertise with passion and innovation, while giving a new dimension to their horological heritage through the contribution of Paul Mercier. The latter, a cosmopolitan aesthete and an astute businessman, admirably complemented William Baume’s watchmaking know-how. At the heart of the 1920s, a period of dramatic change characterized by major technical breakthroughs and unprecedented creative effervescence, William Baume and Paul Mercier defined a brand philosophy that is as modern as ever: mastering watchmaking and placing it the service of timeless design and elegance.

Collection – A Tribute to 180 Years Inbox X Reply | Rachel.Leung@baume-et-mercier.com show details Jul 30 (4 days ago) Dear Friend and Member of the Media, I’m very excited to let you know that the online multimedia press kit William Baume Collection – A tribute to 180 years of Baume & Mercier is available for your viewing at www.baume-et-mercier.com/WilliamBaume This site will tell you more about our newly launched 40-piece William Baume Jumping Hour limited editions (retail value $19,900), as well as the story behind the William Baume Collection. In the online Press Lounge (http://press-lounge.baume-et-mercier.com/user), you can download this press kit, as well as pictures of the watches and all the texts in word doc format. Unfortunately, due to the fact that these watches are all limited editions and in such small quantities, we do not have an prototypes or samples available for photoshootings. Should you require any additional information, please contact me. Thank you. Best regards, Rachel Leung Director of Marketing & Communications BAUME & MERCIER Branch of Richemont International NA 645 Fifth Ave, 6th floor New York, NY 10022 Tel direct : (212) 909-4346 Cell phone: (203) 513-1788 Fax : (212) 755-3138 http://www.baume-et-mercier.com 2 attachments — Download all attachments View all images William-Baume-collection-watch-8857-men-red-gold-XL-jumping-hours-catalog-2010.jpg 697K   View Download William-Baume-collection-watch-8858-men-red-gold-XL-jumping-hours-catalog-2010.jpg 679K   View Download Reply Forward

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I am always excited to share “special edition” watches here, especially when the odds are that the presence of some of these watches is unlikely to ever be made known except but to a privileged few.  Today, I have discovered just such a watch – a limited edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso that has been quietly tucked away in a little known Paris watch boutique.

The very exclusive Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso watch you see here was created in partnership with Les Montres watch boutique in Paris. And what a fantastic looking “Les Montres” Grand Reverso it is!  Most notable is its anthracite dial which, if my understanding is correct, is the first execution of the Reverso in such a color (unfortunately the pics I have aren’t that great for showing off the dial).

The watch is priced at 5300 EUR — only 50 will be made — and it is available for purchase now!  More on this, below the jump.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reversion LES MONTRES Special Edition

30mm x 48.5mm stainless steel case,  Movement is the manual-wind Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 976 (48 hour power reserve)

Although I suspect that only a very die-hard Jaeger-LeCoultre collector (not based in Paris) would go to the effort to lift this watch out of the little-known Paris boutique, I’m always surprised at who is actually tuned into this blog…so if you are interested, here you go — get in touch with either of these two Les Montres locations to snatch one up:

As for the rest of you, well, it is always nice to look and dream

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I’ve been keeping an eye on Victorinox Swiss Army watches the past couple years and I think it is time to give them some credit for offering watch enthusiasts some great watches at great price points — ie good value for your money.  In particular the brand has recently introduced  some very cool new PVD watches that caught my eye i.e. this new Infantry Vintage Chronograph in black PVD.   The Victorinox Infantry Vintage Chrono watch was actually introduced 2 years ago with a quartz movement, but now it is available with a mechanical movement (more on this below the jump).  Have a look:

Victorinox Infantry Vintage Chrono Mechanical

Black dial and 44mm Black Ice PVD case and bracelet

The movement in this watch is an ETA/ Valjoux 7750 movement.  The Valjoux 7750 is widely known as quality and reliable Swiss-made automatic mechanical movement.  The Valjoux 7750 is actually used in the watches of many famous and high-dollar luxury brands, some of which carry a much higher price point.

This particular model is priced at $1,895 and is one of the more — if not the most expensive — models from Victorinox. That said, I think it is a relative value compared to other black PVD models with quality Swiss-movements in them.  Also, in general the black PVD watches have been limited to higher end brands thus making them largely inaccessible at price points such as this.  To see a long list of other PVD watches I have written about, CLICK HERE and you will see what I mean that they are far from the $1,900 price point.  That makes this new Infantry Vintage Chrono Mechanical PVD a good option for those of you shopping in this price range.

By the way, the Victorinox Infantry Vintage Chrono Mechanical actually comes in three colors — the PVD you see here, olive, and silver with black trim. You can check out more photos of all 3 models by clicking here.

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This is a cool new limited edition watch from Bell & Ross, the BR 01-02 Compass. A similar version of this watch was actually previewed a couple of years ago at Baselworld.  You will immediately notice that this is not a normal watch — in fact the design is inspired by old school aviation navigation instruments in that the watch keeps time via one fixed point at the top of the dial. It’s actually quite simple if you take a moment to examine it.

What time is it?

10:10 of course!

I really like this concept of telling time.  Rather than two hands moving around a dial, the dial — or in this case two dials — move around a single hand (ie a fixed point). Thus there are two concentric disks which independently rotate to reflect the hours (outer dial) and minutes (inner dial).  Like this:

Cool, eh?  Production will be limited to 500 pieces, available October 2010.  Price is approximately $5,500 / £3,400.

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1. Presenting the Bell & Ross “Green Ceramic” Military Watch in Video
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Switzerland-based Artisan watchmaker Angular Momentum has just released a whimsical new watch that I just love.   By using what Angular Momentum describes as “Cassata style” production (a term perhaps more common to the art of cooking), small pieces of specially-pigmented enamel are placed on a yellow enamel base and then fused together to create the dial and case inlays.  The result is nothing less than spectacular!

Angular Momentum “Luminous Candy Box”

Cotton Candy

43mm case, rubber strap

The cotton candy colored pigments are even modestly visible in the dark:

Did You Know?

Aside from its regular production….

Angular Momentum of Switzerland offers the unique service to individuals who wish to have their own personalized timepiece. The Artisan Timepiece Collection features a wide range of individual bespoken timepieces, taylor made for a demanding clientele around the world.

Today the majority of Angular Momentum’s yearly production are bespoken timepieces and very small and limited editions.

Wherever you live in the world, don’t hesitate to contact us at Angular Momentum Switzerland. It would be our pleasure to create together with you your own individual timepiece.

Angular Momentum Headquarters and Ateliers

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Yes, it’s David Yurman and yes, some of you horological purists will automatically dismiss it as a result, but I say WAIT! — give this classically-styled beauty a second look, will you?  This particular model, the “CLASSIC 1957″, draws its inspiration from the 1957 Thunderbird (among other autos of the decade) and I think does a good job of reflecting “the look” of the 1950s but with a twist of modernity.  The watch is the latest addition to David Yurman’s “CLASSIC Collection” which was introduced last year.

The David Yurman CLASSIC 1957 features a gauge-like dial with nicely styled Arabic numerals and orange hour and small seconds hands.  The case is 43.5mm diameter, stainless steel and houses a respectable Swiss-made automatic Dubois Dépraz movement.  Also note the signature David Yurman braid/twist around the outer edge of the case.  The perforated calf strap is ideal for touring or auto-themed watches (Audemars Piguet uses a similar strap on its 2010 Tour Auto) — and thus the perfect pairing to a watch such as this.  Price unknown

David Yurman CLASSIC 1957

1957 Chevy Bel-Air Dashboard

1957 Ford Thunderbird

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IWC goes 2 for 2 this week at First In Watches with yet another awesome Boutique Edition watch (check the “Boutique Only” IWC Blue Big Pilot Watch if you haven’t seen it already).  The watch you see here is the new IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar Double Moonphase featuring a beautiful 44.2-millimeter 18-carat red gold case.  This exclusive model also features an  ardoise grey dial, matching applied red gold dial appliqués, and a midnight blue double-moon phase display (Northern and Southern Hemispheres).  More on the watch, below the jump:

Limited to just 30 pieces worldwide, the timepiece runs the IWC Caliber 5000 series movement with a 7-day power reserve.  It delivers perpetual calendar accuracy with a deviation of just one day every 577 years.  At best this model will be available only in IWC boutiques, but I’ve heard it be even harder than this to get a look because it will be exclusively the Hong Kong and Macau IWC boutiques.  Either way, if you’ve got the cash for this watch (price is probably near $50,000 US), you can surely afford the charter to jet overseas for a looksie.

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For some reason I find myself attracted to these new Tesla watches from Artya.  Whether my attraction is positive or negative I am not sure.  Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I have long been intrigued with their creator, Mr Yvan Arpa.  In fact, I last called Arpa a shock artist — except this charge was leveled more for his use of dinosaur poop, fissile material, and moon dust in watches than it was for his use of joules jewels, coiled copper wire, diodes and filaments in the beauties you see below.  Not to mention that the cases are lightning-struck with 100,000 or 200,000 or 500,000 or even 1,000,000 volts!  Imagine the arc that must produce from the Tesla coil!  Ah, Faraday would be proud, would he not?

While the Ohm in me is tempted give Arpa and his team more static for sparking these shocking creations to life, I frankly do not see the the need to put up a strong resistance to horological transformers as fine as these people.  Heck, I would even question just how far my impedance to a current as alternate as Arpa could carry without tripping some serious circuit breakers from the plant managers over at Alpiq.  Ah well, watt-ever this is a discussion for anode-r day — for now I just wanted to relay to you a pic and the specs on these new Quadri-Rotor pieces — if you get amped up over them (and I mean they get you feeling some serious coloumbs running up your leg), leave a comment and let me know.  Prices are around $5,500 US.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

—————————————————
Movement : Self-winding movement entirely manufactured in Switzerland. Power reserve: 42 hours. Jewelling: 25 jewels

Case* : 316 steel Silver-coloured “Coup de foudre” Collection: cases engraved, mutilated, tortured, “lightning-struck” 100,000 volts, 200,000 volts, 500,000 volts or 1,000,000 volts. Diameter Ø47mm. Crystal Sapphire. Back Open, fitted with a sapphire crystal. Water resistance 50 metres

Bracelet : “Alzavel waterproof” treated leather and hand-sewn high-tech rubber, or “crazy frog” tanned cane toad. Buckle Treated steel pin buckle.
Guarantee 24 months

*Depending on the mood of the moment, the cases in the lightning-struck “Coup de foudre” collection undergo thermal combustion, modelling, engraving and other operations performed by hand in the Artya ateliers.

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I’ve seen some ridiculous mobile phones in my life…ahem, TAG Heuer Meridiist and Ulysse Nardin Chairman…but I gotta say that the $300,000 Le DIX by Celsius X VI II (pronounced “Celsius 10-6-2″) tops them all in terms of sheer absurdity.  So I really am sorry for bringing this to your attention, but I just came across this video production from the brand and I could no longer hold back.

“Imagine the world as a micromechanical masterpiece”

Uhhh….No.

The sooner I stop hearing about this device the better.  The Le DIX is just plain stupid, and the only possible outcome I see for this micromechanical mobile phone is a slow, outdated, poorly conceived and expensive death.  In fact, it seems the Le Dix has had its skeptics since word of its existence first leaked out.

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Here’s a special look at the new Zenith Christophe Colomb — an absolutely stunning new limited edition, high-horology piece from Zenith.  Named after the famous world explorer Christopher Columbus, the design of this watch is phenomenal as it prominently features a glass globe which encloses a gyroscope-balanced regulator.  The globe, or double-bubble as see it, protrudes above both the top and bottom of the case in a visually captivating manner.  With a price of $209,000 and limited production of 250 pieces, this watch is all about Zenith showing off its horological skills, and I think it has succeeded on this one.  Have a look:

Zenith Christophe Colomb

side view:

As I alluded to above, the watch’s regulating mechanism features prominently beneath a protruding dome both on the dial and caseback.  The mechanism is kept horizontal at all times through a clever Cardan suspension system, a mechanism commonly found in gyroscopes whose origins date back to the early 1500s – history buffs can read more about Gernolamo Cardano here.  The Cardan suspension allows the rotation of an object in multiple dimensions.  This will surely provide its owner with hours of entertainment in hands-on exploration of the laws of physics.

Available in a 45mm rose or white gold case, the watch dial features the hours and minutes (12 o’clock), the self-regulating gyroscopic module (6 o’clock position), a small seconds subdial (9 o’clock), and a power reserve indicator (3 o’clock) — seen here on the white gold version:

The movement is the manual wind Zenith Academy 8804 with a unique gyroscopic system that ensures perfect horizontal positioning of the regulating organ housed in a gyroscopic cage made of 166 components, 10 conical-geared wheels (with 6 spherical wheels) & 6 ball bearings.  Power reserve is 50 hours.

The watch is available in two metals — Rose Gold (Reference 18.2210.8804/01.C631 ) and White Gold (Reference 65.2210.8804/01.C630).

The only thing I am uncertain about is how exactly does this watch sit on the wrist?  Does the double-bubble design cause trouble in this regard?  I admit, I’m quite curious.

Overall an exciting watch that continues Zenith’s successful 2010.  By the way, if you haven’t already seen them, you will want to have a look at two other exciting watches introduced by Zenith this year in a “return-to-the-roots” strategy for the brand — the Zenith Ultra Thin Elite 681 and the Zenith El-Primero Foudroyante Chronograph.

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1. Zenith Elite Captain
2. Zenith Ultra Thin Elite 681
3. Baselworld 2010: Zenith El-Primero Foudroyante Chronograph

Personally I like the black dial version on the black strap:

The Vintage Original BR 126 chronograph has central seconds, a 60-second and 30-minute subdials, and a (round) date window at 4:30.

And here are the beige models on the standard brown leather strap:

Both watches have a 41mm stainless steel case, 100 meter water resistance, and have luminescent hands, numbers and indexes. The BR 123 is powered by an ETA 2895, while the chronograph uses an ETA 2894.  Notice too the nicely designed buckles on these watches.

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This is the “Boutique-Only” blue-theme IWC Big Pilot watch that regular readers of the IWC Forum have been aware of for several months now.  But since all of you are not regular readers of the IWC Forum, and because I read a somewhat uninformed article about the watch elsewhere, I thought I would shed some light on it here.  Word is that this new IWC Big Pilot blue-theme watch will be a limited edition of 50 for the Beverly Hills and Las Vegas boutiques and delivery is anticipated in December 2010.   The watch will bear a 5004 series reference number which is the same as the standard Big Pilot models — 46.2mm x 15.8mm case size with the IWC Calibre 5111 (automatic with 7-day power reserve).

While you can of course see for yourself that it is a pretty cool looking Big Pilot (it’s all in the cool blue color (dare I call it periwinkle?) and outline design of the numerals), I must say I am quite disappointed to hear that IWC plans to engrave the side of each watch case with “One out of Fifty”.  “One out of Fifty” — seriously?  Say it ain’t so!  I think this is a terrible decision by IWC — as in terribly lazy.  Individually numbered pieces (i.e. 1/50, 2/50…50/50) would be far more appreciated by collectors.  Also, while I am nitpicking, I do not like partial numerals that are cut-off by the subdial (on this or any other watch).  Still, I gotta say that this is one sweet looking watch!

And in case you are wondering (as one of our astute readers was), yes, the Blue Big Pilot comes with all its indices and numerals painted in SuperLuminova — bright blue SumerLuminova, to be precise.

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Raymond Weil Maestro

automatic mechanical movement, 39.5mm steel case (water reistant to 50m), date window at 3 o’clock on the dial with a “clou de Paris” relief, and come on a leather strap with matching stainless steel buckle.

3 styles:

white dial with nickel-plated roman numerals (Ref: 2837 STC 00308)

silver dial with black arabic numerals (Ref: 2837 STC 05659)

silver dial with black roman numerals; small-seconds (Ref: 2838 STC 00659)

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Oh how I would love to be this guy for a day!  “Jetman” Yves Rossy shows us how its done — check it out!

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Spanish-inspired, Swiss-made brand FRANC VILA today announced a special edition of its successful “Cobra” collection to celebrate the first Spanish football World Cup win.   It is an awesome looking watch!  Christened  “Estrella Roja” (red star), this release is limited to 88 pieces (as are most of FV’s models) and features the Spanish squad colors and a star at the 1 o’clock position commemorating the triumph.

Franc Vila EVOS 8 Cobra “Estrella Roja”

“Esprit Unique” shape case/bezel in steel and carbon-fiber, chronograph with big date, water resistant 300 meters, carbon fiber dial; comes on a black crocodile leather strap with red + yellow stitchings (rubber strap also included)

The Spanish founder of the Swiss brand Mr. Franc Vila himself went on the record:

I am extremely happy with the achievement of the spanish football squad in South Africa. This victory has been a dream for a long time in Spain and I am very proud of the football players that have made this dream a reality. I decided to create a special collection commemorating our first football championship with a star in place of the number one, and I hope to add more stars in the future.

Very nicely done, Mr. Vila!

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Perhaps one of the most exciting new watches of 2010 is the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver — Ref 15703.  What I like most about this new Royal Oak Offshore Diver is its relative simplicity in both form and function.  The look is monochromatic – black dial, black pushers and a black strap paired with the signature AP Royal Oak brushed stainless steel case.  The Royal Oak Offshore Diver tells the basic time and date and has a dive-time measurement scale via an inner-rotating bezel.  By reducing to watch to its most basic elements — all done to AP’s high quality standards, of course — the 15703 seems to be really an outstanding watch — in or out of the water.  Let’s take a closer look, shall we?

The 15703 has a 42mm brushed stainless steel case (13.75mm thick) that is water resistant to 300 meters.  The dial, strap and crowns are executed in black and black rubber.  The watch actually features two black rubber crowns — one at 3 o’clock position to set the time and another one at 10 o’clock which controls the inner rotating dive bezel.

The bezel features features a minutes scale on which five- and one-minute periods are clearly highlighted.  The wearer can only turn the bezel by deliberately unscrewing the rubber crown.

The dial is marked by baton shaped hour-markers that are also luminescent.   The hour hand is distinguished by two additional bands of luminescent coating on the side, as you can see here:

The movement inside the Royal Oak Offshore Diver is AP’s selfwinding Calibre 3120 (a “manufacture”, or “in-house” movement) which features a 22-carat gold oscillating weight engraved with the AP monogram and the Audemars and Piguet family crests.  The Caliber 3210 is hand-assembled in the work shops of Le Brassus and no doubt is of exceptional quality in both function and finishing.  Otherwise, it is a straightforward selfwinding model without any complications!

If you want to see and learn more about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Ref 15703, you should check out the mini-site dedicated to the new RO Offshore Diver, that Audemars Piguet just launched.  I especially recommend the feature on the site that is a world map which highlights 10 of the top “Urban Diving Spots” in major cities around the world.  You can also download pics and wallpapers for your viewing pleasure, too.

The AP 15730 price is approximately $15,000.  In summary — I WANT THIS WATCH!

Did You Know?

It is worth remembering that Audemars Piguet actually invented the first high-end sports watch in 1972, which it named Royal Oak, and that it achieved the unprecedented feat of raising steel to the rank of a noble metal on a par with gold.  In 1992, the octagon then took on its extreme sports appearance with the advent of the Royal Oak Off shore. This collection makes ample use of rubber that is often  associated with steel, and sometimes even with gold.  Its dials feature a distinctive criss-cross or grid pattern named “Méga Tapisserie ”.

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This summer, Lionel Ladoire is introducing a special three-piece limited edition refresh of his “Roller Guardian Time” series of watches on which the bridges, strap and dial reflect a casual denim blue shade.  The watch features an offset hour, minute and seconds indications (displayed by three cages mounted on ceramic micro ball bearings) and a GMT function with fast-adjustment push-button system.  It comes on a blue alligator leather strap with a hand-sewn matt black leather lining and an articulated double pin buckle.

Priced around $150,000.

Ladoire Roller Guardian Time Blue

Three-part asymmetrical titanium case (9 – 3 o’clock: 56mm/12 – 6 o’clock: 45mm), bezel and case-back in satin-brushed titanium, case middle in grey PVD-coated titanium; • Black PVD-coated crown at 8 o’clock and corrector pusher at 2 o’clock

The last time I featured a Ladoire watch (Ladoire RGT Punk Rock, February 2010)  several commenters weighed-in that they did not like the watch.  But this did not surprise me, in fact I anticipated it in my article.  I’ll say it again here — that is, given the complexities and unconventional nature of any Ladoire watch I think you have to see them person to fully appreciate it.

The new Roller Guardian Time “Blue” which you see here certainly keeps with Lionel Ladoire’s “Haute Couture Watch Dynamic” and reflects Ladoire’s underground-rock style mood inspired by contemporary culture and some of its exponents such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Andy Warhol and Philippe Starck.

Movement is a LADOIRE Manufacture-made movement (Calvet/o1), automatic winding via a micro rotor featuring galvanic blue circular-geometry bridges

Related posts:

1. Baselworld 2010: Ladoire RGT Punk Rock

In January 2010 I wrote about the new Calibre de Cartier collection as a watch that impressed me when it was announced at the 2010 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (otherwise known as SIHH) in Geneva.  But even prior to this, do you recall the teaser video which the Calibre de Cartier to everyone’s attention?  Yes, you may have seen it first here, on Dec 7 2009 (along with the teaser photo), but if you did not I will re-show it here and now (55 seconds):

Calibre de Cartier teaser video

Keeping with this theme, I just learned that Cartier actually continued the saga (or perhaps closed it out) recently with this video it released in June.  Here take a look (1 min 43 secs):

Calibre de Cartier post-launch video

A production on a budget that only a deep-pocketed brand such as Cartier could afford, wouldn’t you agree?!

Anyway – moving on to the watch…

…now that the new Calibre de Cartier watches are finally hitting the display cases of Authorized Dealers I decided to take a closer look.   As I previously opined, the watch is very nicely sized at 42mm and has a good look to it (aside from the slightly exposed date aperture).  The case – with its large (but nicely curved) lugs and crown protector fits well on my smaller-to-medium sized wrist.   One design element that is not immediately apparent — but a nice design element nonetheless — is the fluted ring around the inner edge of the case:

I really appreciate finer details like this not to mention that I find that it really adds to the look of the watch!

The movement is Cartier’s manufacture caliber 1904 MC and is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.  “1904″ is a reference to the year of the birth of Cartier watchmaking when Louis Cartier created a watch for his friend, the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.  The 1904 MC is Cartier’s first in-house automatic movement.  Cartier claims a few features and innovations in the movement, namely a system of ceramic ball bearings at the center of the rotor to provide shock resistance and durability, a bi-directi0nal winding rotor, and an innovative pawl system that results in a faster winding rate (thus allowing the watch to be wound more easily).  And, of course, a nice video animation to show it all off:

Cartier Calibre 1904 MC Manufacture Movement video

Cartier has created a dedicated website where you can see and learn more about the collection.  Though it is not as impressive as the site for the Chanel J12 Marine watches, it is still worth the look — click to to jump on over!

All in all, I am excited about this new Calibre de Cartier collection from Cartier as well as the brand’s renewed comittment to being serious player in the world of high-watchmaking.

Related posts:

1. SIHH 2010: Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Flying Tourbillon Skeleton
2. SIHH 2010 Cartier Caliber Collection
3. Cartier SIHH 2010 Teaser

The Admiral’s Cup Challenge 44 you see here is a second new model recently announced by Corum as the brand celebrates the 50 year anniversary of its iconic watch design.  You would be correct in recalling that this watch is very, very similar to the Admiral’s Cup Split Seconds 44 that I showed you in late June 2010 – the main differences being that this model a) lacks the split seconds module and b) has the Corum “key” shape on the short end of the seconds hand (see close-up image below).   Production will be limited to 955 pieces in both white (753.671.20/F371 AA52) and black (753.671.20/F371 AN52) dialed versions.  The movement is an automatic COSC chronograph.  Comes on a rubber strap and is water resistant to 100 meters.  I would guess price is in the $5,000 range.

Related posts:

1. Corum Admiral’s Cup Split Seconds 44
2. Corum Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45
3. Corum Admiral’s Cup Grand Prix

This is a nice new racing themed watch from Graham.   Named after the Silverstone Stowe circuit in England, the watch comes on a cool looking tire tread rubber strap and in a green or red color theme (both pictured below).  The Graham Silverstone Stowe GMT is made of sleek looking PVD black steel and has a racing-inspired carbon fiber bezel and dial.   At 48mm diameter case / 17mm thick, the watch is for big wrists only.

The extra-large pedal style pushers placed on the right side of the watch really stand out on the watch, perhaps too much so, but oversize features such as these are a Graham signature so I can’t fault them for staying true to their core.  Movement is a modified Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic movement.  Limited to just 250 pieces each and priced around 9,900 Swiss Francs, deep-pocketed racing enthusiasts should find this to be an attractive option for your collection.

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With this new UR-202 “White Shark” I’ve got to give the guys at Urwerk credit for their continued and excellent ability to seek inspiration from exotic species and see it through to an equally exotic timepiece (remember the “Mexican Fireleg”?). Urwerk’s new Rare Species collection (website coming soon) will reflect ultra-limited production of pieces developed in close collaboration with specific partners.  The first rare species which you see below is the UR-202 White Shark, and it bears the imprint of Chronopassion (Paris) and The Hour Glass (Singapore), two famous horology retailers and collaborators for this particular piece.

The White Shark keeps with the overall design of the original UR-202 except for its monochromatic color scheme — thus delivering upon the “white shark” concept.  The one red number of the 12 hour digits you see below signifies the limited edition nature of this model — just 12 pieces.

Technical Description (per Urwerk):

Time on the UR-202 is displayed using telescopic minute hands operating through the middle of three orbiting and revolving hour satellites. These hands precisely adjust their length to follow the three vectors marking the minutes: 0 -14, 15 – 44, 45 – 60. Extended, they enable the UR-202 to display the time across a large easy-to-read, dial. Retracted, they allow for a very wearable and comfortably sized case. A moonphase and day/night indicator complete the dial..

The patented central carousel is the nerve centre of the satellite complication. It is not only enables the rotating hour satellites, but also the high-precision manoeuvres performed by the three telescopic minute hands. The carousel is a technical tour-de-force requiring fabrication tolerances down to three micros.

Two turbines are visible on the back of the UR-202 “White Shark” and these are coupled to the rotor to regulate the winding system of the watch. The turbines are controlled by a three position selector lever. In mode”FREE”, the two turbines spin freely enabling maximum winding of the mainspring. In mode “Sport”, the two turbines spin with resistance, acting like pneumatic brakes that reduce the winding efficacy wound by 1/3rd. In mode “STOP”, the turbines are locked and block the rotor from winding at all, although the watch can still be manually wound if necessary.

Related posts:

1. Urwerk “Rare Species” White Shark UR-202 Coming Soon
2. Urwerk 202 White Shark In Action
3. Revealed: Urwerk’s new UR-CC1 King Cobra

Seems there will be a new “Rare Species” collection from Urwerk, featuring some very special concept/ultra-exclusive pieces from the brand.  I have almost no details on this special series except I do know that the first piece is to be the UR-202 “White Shark”.  A new website is set to debut as early as tomorrow — I’ll leave the URL of the new “Urwerk Rare Species” website undisclosed until then…

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2. Urwerk 202 White Shark In Action
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The new Bulgari Diagono X-Pro is a watch I have been excited to write about since it was first previewed at Baselworld earlier this year.  I think that this is really a fantastic looking watch.  You may find it interesting to compare this watch to the Bulgari Diagono Caliber 303 Chronograph which was also introduced earlier this year, or even the Diagono collection in general — you will see that the new X-Pro has a somewhat sleeker and sportier look to it along new bezel and rubber strap designs, and as well the “BVLGARI” branding is much less in your face — precisely what I think makes this watch a winner.  The movement is a Bvlgari Calibre 312 which is a Valjoux 7750 base customized by La Joux-Perret Manufacture with an additional GMT module.   Perhaps the most distinctive element of this watch is the notched bezel which also has some interesting functionality with respect to its ability to measure a third timezone (two others on the main dial of the watch).  Not yet sure where it is being priced.

Bvlgari Diagono X-Pro

45mm case in titanium/steel/rubber

hours, minutes, small seconds; central chronograph seconds hand; central GMT hand; notched GMT bezel; date display

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For the 150th and 100th anniversary celebrations of Chopard and Alfa Romeo, respectively, the two brands have come together for a limited edition series of watches and clocks.  In fact the effort is rather ambitious as they are launching five new products – three wristwatches, a travel alarm clock and a table clock.

The Gran Turismo XL Alfa Romeo and the GT XL Chrono Alfa Romeo (available in 44mm stainless steel or stainless steel with DLC coating) feature black dial with red hands and indexes as well as the logo of the two brands.  Movement is a COSC-certified ETA base.  100 meter water resistance.

The three versions are issued in limited and numbered editions of 500.  Price unknown but I would guess around $10,000.

Chopard Gran Turismo XL Alfa Romeo

Chopard GT XL Chrono Alfa Romeo

Chopard GT XL Chrono Alfa Romeo DLC (note — black case)

Chopard for Alfa Romeo Limited Edition Desk and Table Clocks

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But I digress!

Superstar sprinter Usain Bolt (whom we spotted wearing a Hublot late last year –  before it became ‘official’) recently took part in a charity event organized by the Swiss brand at its Nyon headquarters.  Bolt pitted himself against 10 child athletes and in good fun he lost the race to all 10 of them.  The result of this was a $100,000 donation by Hublot to the Usain Bolt Foundation, which was set up by the runner to support a number of projects in Jamaica focusing on education, health and development and will contribute in particular to actions carried out by “United Way of Jamaica”.

It was also noted that during his visit to Nyon, Bolt would “take part in a workshop session to develop the watch that is soon to be created in his name.”  In other words — look for the Hublot Big Bang Bolt to be coming soon!!!

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The fantastic result of a collaboration between designer and architect Marc Berthier and Pierre-Alexis Dumas, artistic director of Hermès — a square watch that isn’t quite so square!  Only 173 will be produced – one for each year of existence of Hermès (the company was founded in 1837).  I do recommend you check out this great interview with the 2 designers of the watch for some additional insights into what I think is a really splendid watch.

Hermès Carré H

36.5 x 36.5 mm bead-blasted Titanium case, polished titanium crown

It is really is quite an interesting watch if I do say so myself and I highly recommend that you click here to read the wonderful “question and answer” session with the two designers of this watch!

Mechanical automatic movement (GP 3200 Sowind),  Oscillating weight and bridges adorned with a sprinkling of “Hs”

Black Barenia calfskin strap with matching titanium buckle

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The new MB&F Horlogical Machine No. 4 aka Thunderbolt is totally out of this world.  Made of a sapphire and titanium case that measures 54mm wide x 52mm long x 24mm high.  I absolutely love the profile view of the machine and how it mounts to the strap.  Price is $158,000 and total production will be 25-35 pieces per year.  I’ll let Maximillian Busser (he’s the “MB” in “MB&F”) himself describe the rest of the watch and its inspiration for you — read on for details and pics.

Watch the MB&F HM4 Thunderbolt Video:

MB&F Horological Machine No4 is here! For the last three years I could not talk about this amazing piece of machinery, and it is truly a great day that I can finally share with all!

After the 311 part Engine which was unveiled in March during Basel, here is probably the most complex case in the history of horology to protect and magnify it.

Titanium and Sapphire – 150 hours of machining and polishing just for the central Sapphire case (that is close to four weeks of machining for one piece !), over 60 hours of machining and finishing for the titanium case back, etc, etc… In our twenty years of horology, this is the greatest challenge Serge Kriknoff and I have been up to.

The MB&F HM4 Thunderbolt as worn by Maximillian Busser himself:

So what is the Thunderbolt ? A tribute to Aviation…

Why ? Because from the age of 8 to 12-13 I spent every free minute crafting model airplanes… They were everywhere in my room. Hanging from the ceilings, accumulating on the shelves, in the cupboards. I would spend hours assembling, modifying, painting anything which had two wings. HM4 is a very personal interpretation of what would happen if you crossed a piece of ultra high end horology with the world of aeronautics.

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Harry Winston Premier Perpetual Calendar 2010

41mm white gold case, automatic movement, anthracite dial with silver “Côtes de Genève” decoration

excentered hours and minutes, second time-zone, perpetual calendar bi-retrograde (date and month) and leap year, moon phase indicator

The watch comes on a black alligator strap with matching white gold folding buckle.  It is also available in rose gold.

This watch follows in the footsteps two prior perpetual calendar models which released by Harry Winston (1989 platinum and 2007 white gold), which you can see here. This new 2010 variation is my favorite of the three.  Price upon request.

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***UPDATE*** See our full coverage of the MB&F Thunderbolt in photo and video — CLICK HERE***

You’ve seen the “first look” photos….now here’s an even closer look at the new MB&F Thunderbolt courtesy of this “teaser” video recently released by the company:

Does this thing look awesome or what!?!  It will be officially unveiled this coming Wednesday, July 7, 2010!

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Members of the Panerai Brotherhood known as “Paneristi” are weeping with joy over the July 1 announcement of a new, limited edition Panerai Luminor — aka the PAM360 — that will be produced specially to commemorate the 10 year anniversary of Paneristi.com (the unofficial and undisputed resource on all things Panerai):

Only 300 will be made — meaning that the PAM 360 is set to become one of the most highly coveted and sought after Panerai’s.  The Paneristi “Mod team” (the forum Moderators) along with some other key players appear to have helped design the watch and make it all happen.  The PAM360 is a 44mm Luminor with black PVD case, patina dial markers, and the “OP” logo:

Panerai Luminor “Paneristi” (PAM 360)

The case back has special commemorative language ala “Paneristi.com Tenth Anniversary”:

How exactly Panerai will allocate these watches is unknown (to me at least) — I only hope that it is done via a lottery or random drawing as opposed to a “political” process such as allocation as determined by the Mod team or according to one’s “contribution” to the website over the years.  The price will be $6,700 USD (5,500 EURO/630,000 JPY/52,500 HKD).

I really applaud Panerai and other brands such as IWC who make special edition watches such as these.  I think that these models payback almost unlimited dividends to the brands in the form of an even deeper passion and sense of loyalty amongst their most dedicated fans.

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