One showing away from a record-setting 4 medals…

U.S. Alpine Skier Bode Miller won the men’s super-combined title for his first gold and third podium finish in as many races this past Sunday at the 2010 Winter Olympics. Miller is one podium away from becoming the first male skier to win four medals in a single Olympic Games, and with the slalom and giant slalom yet to come – 2 events in which Miller has a good track record in – his prospects are looking good right now.

The 32-year-old Miller has been an official brand ambassador for Hublot since February 2009.  In late 2009 Hublot announced the limited edition “Bode Bang” watch to commemorate the partnership between the athlete and the famous Swiss watch brand.

Congratulations to Jean-Claude Biver and everyone at Hublot!

Word travels fast on the ‘Net

Another topic that has been on my mind for awhile and now seems timely for discussion – the embargo.  While I am not declaring my own “Death to the Embargo” like TechCrunch’s Michael Arrington did about a year ago (and he’s not the only one, I might add:  see CrunchGear here, The Wall Street Journal here with similar ideas), I’m implementing an embargo policy here at First In Watches, effective immediately.

The Problem.  The problem here is that some brands (and some of their “preferred” sources) are not very careful in how they distribute embargoed information – and the fallout from embargo-related “mishaps” is quite annoying.  The good thing is that based on my experience this is a very small problem for the luxury watch industry – but it is a problem nonetheless, and one that is growing as the industry increasingly embraces the Internet and online media.

If You (Watch Brand) send around embargoed information to your preferred media contacts, you better be darn sure that your recipients are going to respect the embargo and/or be careful with your information, because if you know anything about the increasingly real-time nature of the Internet, you know that information travels fast online – and reigning in a broken embargo is like trying to coax a cat out of a tree with the dog who treed it at your side – the kitty don’t come back easily, if you know what I’m saying.  If not, let me put it this way:  Twitter, Blogs, Forums, Facebook.  You catch my drift here?  Online media ain’t print media, and you need to get this figured out and fast because I’m about done making efforts to hold back embargoed information when it has already been leaked by others.  The practice of trying to contact every website which posted embargoed information and ask for a redaction is not sustainable.

This prompts me to make another point – I have never knowingly or intentionally broken an embargo on this blog, nor do I intend to start.  I have and will continue respect your brand’s wishes if you are kind enough to provide me with embargoed information.  But if you see a new watch on this blog that you think/know is embargoed, rest assured that I did not get the information as such and as far as I am concerned this is your problem not mine.  Which leads to my last and final point…

Our New Embargo Policy

As I stated above, at this time I am not going to declare my own “Death to the Embargo” a la Michael Arrington , however I am going to work by this embargo policy until further notice:  All embargoed information provided directly to me will continue to be respected as long as the embargo is not broken elsewhere.  All other information and images posted here on this blog will stay on this blog unless a representative of the brand whose name is on the watch/information in question contacts me and we agree otherwise.

If I hear a convincing argument for a better policy, I’ll be glad to consider making a change.

Don’t Miss the Video!

Pierre DeRoche is a brand that produces high-end, limited edition watches with great design and function.  The brand is introducing a couple new watches in 2010, one a ladies watch, the other this one – the GrandCliff TNT Penta.  It is a flyback chronograph with 60 minute and 12 hour counters.  Production will be just 21 pieces in 45.5 mm pink gold-steel-titanium combination case.  I really like the shape of the watch case and the lugs – very unique, very cool looking.  I would love to rock one of these watches on my wrist, except I feel that the 45.5mm case size might be a bit too big – but until I try it on I won’t know for sure.  Read a bit more about the brand below the pic:

Close Up View of the Pierre DeRoche GrandCliff TNT Penta’s dial

The more I learn about Pierre DeRoche the more I like the brand.  If you want a unique watch that you will not see everday, this is definitely one to consider.  I was reading a bit about the brand on its website, and it was interesting to learn that the family behind Pierre DeRoche lays claim to an impressive set of contributions to watchmaking:

In 1937, Marcel Dépraz, the great-grandfather of Pierre Dubois, CEO of Pierre DeRoche, developed a chronograph movement that was revolutionary for its time. More than 3.5 million pieces were produced until 1970. His grandson Gérald Dubois, Pierre’s father, invented the first automatic chronograph.  And, not wanting to be outdone, the present generation of Pierre Dubois and his two brothers, Jean-Philippe and Pascal, invented the concentric chronograph, a Pierre DeRoche exclusivity.

Of course we also know that Pierre DeRoche developed the first movement in the world able to  house six retrograde seconds mechanisms as we saw at Baselworld 2009 when it unveiled the Pierre DeRoche TNT Royal Retro – what a spectacular watch!  I never tire of watching this very cool video which demonstrates the wow factor of the six retrograde seconds mechanisms:

Wait there’s more!  BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon.  You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum, and many many more when the event starts on March 18th.  Just click here!

Hodinkee and Horomundi Share Good Insights In Recent Interviews With Hublot’s Jean-Claude Biver

In October 2009, I wrote an article “Beyond the Big Bang – What’s Next for Hublot?” in which (among other things) I stated the following:

…I do think that Hublot Big Bang has and continues to be a very desirous watch right now.  But…… I am concerned.  I am concerned that Hublot has now effectively become one watch, and one watch only – the Big Bang.   Not only that, but I also see that the appeal, the allure, the magic, of the Big Bang is at risk of fizzling due to the number of variations that Hublot continues to introduce.   Seemingly every month a new “limited” or “special” edition Big Bang is released, but in reality these are nothing more than Big Bang’s with a new color scheme or with a special logo on the dial….My point here is that it is too much – it is getting tiring – and I think it is starting to dilute the credential of the Big Bang.   Audemars Piguet found itself in a similar position several years ago with its Royal Oak Offshore watches – too many variations and one-off special editions – and some watch enthusiasts started to turn away.   Thankfully for AP, it was diversified – offering a much broader lineup of watches than just the Royal Oak.   Hublot is not in this position.

While my position hasn’t really changed – and in fact Jean-Claude Biver very recently acknowledged the validity of my position (which I’ll get to in a second) -  it is noteworthy that (anecdotally speaking) Hublot continues to defy the watch slump by being one of the better performing watch brands in the marketplace today.   I can believe this because Hublot makes very cool watches – watches that people want – and it creates a very special aura around owning a “Big Bang” through its often personal and hands-on marketing efforts from Jean-Claude Biver himself.

Fast forward to the present.  Earlier this week, watch enthusiasts were treated to two very interesting encounters with The Man himself.  I’ll excerpt a couple tidbits here, but I do highly recommend reading each one of them.  First Hodinkee.com, at a Hublot sponsored event at a swank New York  restaurant, gleaned some great insights as can be read in “A Glance At The New Hublot: Jean-Claude Talks Giving Back, BNB, & The Future of the Big Bang“.  Most notable for me was this exchange:

[Hodinkee asked] When will we see something from Hublot that’s NOT a Big Bang? Mr. Biver had this to say, “Asking me that question is like asking a Porsche engineer in 1990 when we will see something besides the 911. It is a benchmark for the brand and right now we are going to continue with it for many years to come. I say 1990 because years later Porsche released the Boxster (a less expensive sportscar), the Cayenne (an SUV), and now even the Panamera (a four-door), but in 1990, Porsche had only the 911. In ten years, I may have something else to say, but the Big Bang is our Porsche 911.”

OK, good point JC Biver makes – overall, the Big Bang is working, so why not continue to drive that for all its worth. Even so, Porsche had to broaden its portfolio eventually!  There is another good picture and discussion with Hodinkee about Hublot’s new UNICO movement family and where the fit in the overall Hublot pyramid – so be sure to check out the full Hodinkee article here.

Next, Revolution Magazine’s Wei Koh penned “The Luxury Übermensch: An Interview with Jean-Claude Biver” – posted in its entirety for your enjoyment also at Horomundi.com. The interview is very good, very insightful and by no means coddling:

Have you made any mistakes or failed in anyway at Hublot? [Biver:] I would say that I have made mistakes but fortunately, none that have impacted me in a major way. I think I expanded the collection too fast. I think I have too many references, and I abused limited editions. So that is already quite a few mistakes, but they did not do any lasting damage and we had it corrected.

In what way did you go wrong with limited editions? [Biver:] The idea was correct but the quantities related to limited editions were wrong. The idea was correct because if you are a mono-product brand, you have to ask yourself how many of the same watch is a consumer willing to buy from you. He can buy one watch ultimately. If I make the same watch in three materials, in theory, he can buy three. But how can I get him to buy the fourth one? You see, when I have a customer with my watch on his wrist, I never want him to quit my brand. But if he is buying three or four watches per year, I want to remain in consideration. How do I achieve this? How do I get these people? I make a limited edition in memory of Ayrton Senna because it has a great emotional story or I make one related to Alinghi or Manchester United because this will strike a different emotional chord. So you see, limited editions are a necessity. But between the necessity of making a few and the evil of making too many, there is a fine balance! We lost this balance but have corrected it.

My point exactly (!) and I am heartened to hear JC Biver speak candidly on this.  Now these 2 questions were only a small part of the broader interview – there is a wealth of great insights throughout the rest, including more discussion of Hublot’s move towards being a manufacture, the importance and meaning of the “in house movement” moniker, the [possible] classic-ization of the Big Bang, and much more….if you are interested it is very much worth the read.

So what’s my point in all this?  Well, first it is Not hear to say “I told you so” – rather I am glad that Hublot realizes that while there may be lots of runway left for the Big Bang, it is a bit overextended in terms of references, limited editions and colors.  This is the best thing about a great leader and visionary like Jean-Claude Biver – he is not so hung up on his own accomplishments (of which there are many!) as to think that he can do no wrong.  He comes across as being constantly introsepctive and adaptive.  And this is why, even though I have not met him, I admire Biver and in my own actions try to emulate qualities such as these.  Still, while Hublot is now mostly focused now on its new UNICO movements and becoming a manufacture, as well as continuing to extend the success of the Big Bang, I still think that the top of the mountain has already been reached for the Big Bang and I hope that Hublot will be ready for the next ascent.

Wall You Others Out, Or Wall You Yourself In?

Here is a question nagging me for too long now:  Why do certain watch websites watermark the images that they receive from various watch brands?   Mostly I am thinking of ThePurists (aka WatchProsite) and to a lesser extent Horomundi.com (sites I enjoy on a daily basis, btw).  For years I see this, these nagging watermarks on images that are not even their own.  I’m not trying to be snide about this – I honestly just don’t get it, particularly in this day and age.  Heck, even TimeZone, the most guarded, controlled and walled-off watch community on the Internet doesn’t even watermark their images – and if anyone would be expected to do such a thing it would be them.

Sure, I can understand and respect these people for wanting to preserve some level of propriety for images that they or their teams create – but images that a watch brand provides to all media (bloggers, print media, etc. etc.)?  C’mon who you kidding?  If these aforementioned watermark-happy sites go beyond their own walls (which maybe they do and thus they will weigh in accordingly here), I wonder why they don’t wonder why these MANY other legitimate websites are sharing with their readers the same information and images – except without an exclusive “seal of approval”.

To me, this behavior shows a fundamental lack of understanding of where the true value lies in online media today (hint:  it’s not watermarked images).  Besides, there is this little unwritten code called a “hat tip”, a “nod”, or a “linkback” – and in my experience most people are more than happy to hand them out now and again – no watermarks needed.  What goes around, comes around, you know?

Anyway, with that off my chest – I’d really love to hear what others think on this topic.

OK here’s the deal – you must choose one or the other.  No “I’d rather have this alternative or that alternative.”  There are two choices at hand here.

So….which one would you choose?  Why?

The 2010 Leica M7 Hermès Edition Camera

Price:  about $13,000

Limited Edition of 200

Nod to Luxury Insider and many others for the camera scoop.

The 2010 Hermès Clipper Chronograph Titanium Watch

Price:  between $5,000 and $10,000

Me?  I’d take the watch.  Why? No real reason except that I’m a watch guy!

It’s been known for some time that movement maker ETA is slated to stop selling ebauche movements ['blanks'] to any company outside of The Swatch Group by the end of this year. Since the announcement a few years ago we have heard that other Swiss movement manufacturers were aiming to fill in the giant hole that will be left open by the lack of ETA movements available. Names like Ronda and ISA have been kicked around for quartz movements, and Sellita has come up often regarding mechanical movements. Many brands that fall into the moderate to lower end level have already begun using movements from these two brands in anticipation of the cut off from ETA. The SW200, which is Sellita’s version of the ever popular 2824-2 has been popping up in watches quite a bit.

Everyone is expecting Sellita to pick up at least some of the slack from ETA, knowing this they have increased production, and appear ready to do what they can to take a strong foothold in the market. Sellita has a few popular 3-hand automatic mechanicals that are well known but the question always came up; what about a chronograph? The venerable 7750 has had such a strong presence in the market, and is in so many pieces that it’s almost impossible to imagine the use of anything else. Its versatility and ability to be easily modified has made it a favorite ebauche among many luxury brands.

Enter the Sellita SW500 automatic chronograph movement:

Stated to have the same level of quality and accuracy of the 7750 the SW500 will make its general public debut at this year’s BaselWorld fair. For those who question the ability of Sellita to just step up and make robust, quality movements it should be known that for years Sellita used to be sent movements directly from ETA themselves, for certain modifications requested by ETA buyers. The 25 jewel SW500 clocks in at 28,800 BPH [beats per hour] / 4Hz to give its sub second hand the same smooth sweep as the 7750. Like its distant cousin; the option for the day / date function is also available. From the initial looks of it, it appears that the the SW500 may be a direct drop in replacement to the 7750 [from what I can see their sizes appear to be identical; diameter of 30mm and a height of 7.90mm].  This is a benefit to watch producers who won’t want to spend the money to redesign their cases and dial configurations.  I would imagine that as the watch world becomes more familiar with the SW500 other variations will quickly become available.

Time will tell [literally] if the SW500 is destined become a favorite among luxury brands; but in a market that may be soon scrambling for automatic movements Sellita appears to be a viable option. There has been speculation among visitors of watch forums that The Swatch Group may either delay, or totally pull back on the decision to stop selling ebauches and movement parts when faced with industry uproar. Nicolas Hayek often claims that he made this decision to spur innovation in the watch industry. To his credit since the official announcement several firms began to produce their own in-house movements, and fellow movement manufacturers have started to step up. If ETA were to make the decision to continue to sell movements beyond 2010 one very positive result would be an increase of choice and varying prices…Which is never a bad thing.

I would guess that The Swatch Group will have to stop selling as the market has been adjusting to the announcement for years. If they were to continue there would surely be some shareholders that would be none too pleased.

At the time of this writing I am not aware of any brands that have opted to use the SW500 movement.

As a partner of The TimeTV.com, I on behalf of Perptuelle.com am pleased to bring you this exclusive message from Mr Francesco Trapani, CEO of the Bulgari Group, about Bulgari’s new watchmaking strategy.  Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta will no longer stand on their own, but will instead be co-branded on Bulgari watches.

FULL VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:

“Dear Friends, Collectors and esteemed watch Connoisseurs,

Today, I would like to share with you some important news as Bulgari is entering a new era which is significantly impacting the future of the Brand.

Ten years ago, I expressed in an interview the desire to develop our know-how in the watch complication craftsmanship sector.

Subsequently Bulgari built, in different stages, a network of manufacturing facilities for the production of top-of-the-range cases, dials and watch bracelets.

In parallel, we progressively expanded our knowledge of the mechanical base movement as well as our expertise in the field of the complicated movement.

Today I can safely say: our mission is accomplished!

This long process has now reached its final stage, after following a strategy which developed and integrated the mastery of watchmaking operations that began a decade ago.

Now it is time for a further step: to complement Bulgari watchmaking with a strong presence in the high-end and grandes complications watch creations.

Consequently I have decided to merge the cutting-edge skills of our Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth Manufacture in Le Sentier with the prestigious image of Bulgari, a strong name in the world of luxury.

While preserving their technical and aesthetic qualities, the Daniel Roth and the Gérald Genta timepieces will from now be fully integrated into the collection of the Bulgari Brand.

This alliance is sealed on the new watch creations, where the Bulgari Brand is featured along with the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth logos.

This union is the fruit of a rational and organic evolution.

This integration into the overall dynamics of our Brand represents a great achievement. United, our respective areas of expertise will from now on allow Bulgari to complete its strategic process.

The merger of these skills offers Bulgari new perspectives and dimensions.

It allows us to advance in the sector of watch excellence through exclusive collections at a very high level.

The merger will also ensure that the know-how of the Manufacture Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta will be permanently preserved in a definitive manner also by strictly respecting its DNA and its tradition.

Every union of two individualities embodies a positive evolution.

As in all unions, the meeting of individual values sets off a new concept.

Our union combines 125 years of history dedicated to the passion for beauty and contemporary design with the sum of exceptional technical human skills and finest quality.

I am therefore, today, extremely pleased to invite you all to discover our newest creations by visiting us at the Salon Mondial de l’Horlogerie in Basel on March 18th, 2010”.

Longines is re-issuing a timepiece that was specially designed for Charles Lindbergh

While Longines is not a brand of high great interest to me, but this particular watch caught my eye and so I thought I would share it here.  You can read the neat story behind this watch (and see some good pics) here, in Perpetuelle’s news section.  I also recommend for further and very interesting reading a good article from my friends over at Hodinkee – Charles Lindbergh: Record Setting Pilot, Isolationist, National Icon, And Watch Designer.

Geneva Time Exhibition Will Showcase 38 Independent Watch Brands

Many of you are eagerly awaiting the upcoming Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2010 in Geneva, better known as SIHH 2010, and of course your dedicated team here at Perpetuelle will be bringing you all the action on our SIHH 2010 forum so be sure to check in early and often!  But did you know that there is another equally exciting luxury watch event ocurring at the same time this year?  It is called the Geneva Time Exhibition.  Unlike the SIHH which is comprised mostly of well established, well known brands under the Richemont group umbrella, the Geneva Time Exhibition was created for independent watch brands.  In fact, there will be 38 watch brands at this year’s inaugural event!

I am quite excited for this event and the exposure that it will offer the many independent watchmakers who will be there.  In my experience, many of these smaller, independent brands lack the human and financial capital to “get the word out” about their brands.  This is a real challenge facing any independent watch brand because as we know marketing is key to the success of any watch brand, and so I really am excited that the organizers of the event, Florence Noël, Paola Orlando and Dominique Franchino of Time Exhibitions Sàrl, were able to bring it all together with such a large group of indepdenent brands.  Hopefully the visitors (be they retailers, distributors, individual watch enthusiasts or others) will now do their part and turn up as well to see what the event has to offer them!

Although I have received communications from some of the brands who will be at the Geneva Time Exhibition, I have not heard from many, and I have not seen much mention of this event on any of the many other watch blogs either.  Makes me wonder if they missed a crucial and low-cost opportunity to get the word out about their show!  This is understandable given that it is the first year for the event, but hopefully in future years they will be able to continue to broadent their outreach to the online watch blogs and communities such as Perpetuelle.com and others.  That said, Team Perpetuelle will do our best to share with you the many new watches unveileved at the inaugural Geneva Time Exhibition.

Some of the brands at this show you may have heard of – perhaps because I have written about them on here on this blog  (Linde Werdelin & Ateliers de Monaco just to name 2) or perhaps elseshwere.  But my guess is that most the brands you may be new to you, and my view on this is that it is always a fun prospect to learn about new and exciting brands so receive these brands with arms and eyes wide open!  Here is a snapshot of all the brands that will be on display and that you may be seeing and learning more about here on this blog in the weeks to come:

You can read and see more about the Geneva Time Exhibition here on their website.