Editor’s Note: The following is a guest post by watch enthusiast Eric James.  Eric is the IWC Moderator for Perpetuelle.com’s World Watch Forum.

I purchased this watch from an authorized dealer (AD) on 21 December 2009 while visiting my Uncle Jim in a different state than in which I live.

What does one think when he purchases his “grail” watch which, at retail, costs as much or more than most mid-sized cars? I thought many things, such as, “Am I crazy?”; “How will I explain this to the wife?”; “Absolutely no watch purchases in 2010 and sell the others that I have.” It made me feel better to have my Uncle there to help me make my decision. He has a saying “The Quality Remains Long After the Price is Forgotten.” I didn’t feel any hesitation when considering if I would buy the watch when the AD made me an offer that was hard to refuse, so I went for it. With all of the indications on the watch, I don’t really need any other except maybe a work-out watch for the gym.

The IWC reference 5022.13 Portuguese Perpetual Calendar (PPC) is 18 carat rose gold with a brown alligator leather strap and a rose gold deployment clasp. It has indications for the time, day, date, month, power reserve, moon phase, small seconds and the 4-digit year. The watch is self-winding with a 7-day power reserve (168 hours). The front sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides and the rotor can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back and is quite large. The watch is water resistant to 3 bar, which means according to IWC’s website, that I can be on the surface of a swimming pool wearing the watch (which I would never do).

The watch has a 42.3mm diameter and 15.6mm height. It is quite tall, similar to the Ingenieur, but not as heavy. It weighs in at 145 grams. Inside is the IWC calibre 51613 with Pellaton automatic winding system, 62 jewels and the movement beats at 21,600 beats per hour.

Seeing the movement through the caseback is quite interesting. With the rotor in a certain position, one can see, among other things, the balance wheel rotating, the balance spring, the bi-directional winding “hooks” and the escape wheel in its perpetual motion.

The dial is well organized. The sub-dial at the 3 contains the date on the outer ring. Only the odd day numbers are printed whereas the even day numbers are dots. The inner dial contains the 7-day power reserve reading on a double track similar to a railroad. There is a small red warning indicator should the owner allow the power reserve to fall to 1 day or less. Since the small hands for these two indications are the same rose gold, although different lengths, the wearer could mistake the date indicator for the power reserve. A nice, lengthy look at the face will tell the correct date (and it is well worth the extra time).

The sub-dial at 9 contains the day indicator on the outer ring. Each day is indicated by its three letter abbreviation and each is separated by a dot, so there is no mistake when determining the day. The inner ring contains the small seconds function. The seconds hand rotates around a ring with a marker at each second with Arabic numerals at the tens and larger ticks at the fives. I am glad IWC included a seconds hand as I cannot see myself wearing a watch without some type of indicator showing that it is working. Furthermore, I think the small seconds is traditional and a perfect fit for this timepiece.

The sub-dial at the 6 shows the month. Each month is denoted by its 3-letter abbreviation. December is at the top and I am looking forward to seeing this indication change over the course of 2010.

The sub-dial at the 12 shows the moonphase, which according to IWC, will be accurate for 577 years. Outstanding! And, since I started wearing this watch 8 days prior to the start of 2010, I know there will be a rare full moon when 31 Dec 2009 rolls into 1 Jan 2010.

One last indication is the 4-digit year between the 7 and the 8. What is spectacular about this is that it won’t have to be changed until the year 2100. I suppose that some time after the beginning of 2100, the owner of this watch will send it back to IWC to have the 20 in changed to 21. More mysteriously, the box includes the replacement year indicators for the years 2200 through 2400 (a dial containing the numbers 22, 23 and 24). The proud owner will have to send the watch back to IWC to have the dial updated around the year 2200. This portends that the watch will have to go back IWC twice in a 100 year period, approximately. I am amazed that IWC considers it will still exist as a company in the next 4 centuries, but it is a nice touch.

So, back to the watch, the information the wearer needs most often can be read left to right and the information changing less often is read top to bottom.

This is my first (and will probably be my only) perpetual calendar. I find this is the quintessential timepiece. Why? Well, one can only wind the watch in the forward direction to the next day – you can never go back! (winding it backward will damage the movement and necessitate sending it back to the factory.) There are no pushers on the case like other perpetuals to get the indications correct. To set the correct time and other indications, the owner must be careful not to move past the current date, or the watch must be hacked to allow present time to catch up to the watch’s indication.

What makes this watch special, in a way, is that it can only show the current date, day, month, moonphase and year at the current second – just like time itself. Traveling across time zones is a different challenge (something I have considered recently). I used to live in Japan and travelled between Japan on the U.S. often. Now, if flying to Japan (12 or 13 hours ahead of the U.S. east coast and 19 hours ahead of Hawaii), setting the time on this IWC is as easy as moving the hands forward. However, on the return trip, one must be careful not to move the hands back until they reach 2 p.m. or later of the same day. As you can see from the red warning instructions included in the box, one must not move the hands backward earlier than 2 a.m. when the calendar function is completing its cycle. If I experience this problem, I’m sure I will either stop the watch and wait for time to “catch-up” or wait until 3 or 4 p.m. of the current day before moving the hands back to the correct time.

First In Watches Ticks Into 2010 with a Review of the Paul Picot Technicum (Reference number P7018G20.771 BM)

Happy 2010 watch fans – it is time to start off the year on the right foot (wrist?) with a watch review! As regular readers know, here on First In Watches my “takes” are almost exclusively on the best and most unique watches money can buy, and my review today – that of the Paul Picot Technicum – is no exception.  Let’s go right to the video where I cover most of what needs to be said and give you a good look at this very nice watch.  Below the jump I’ll share some pictures and a few parting thoughts.  Enjoy:

Before I get into some follow up thoughts, let me first thank my friends at Grenon’s of Newport for providing the watch you just got an inside tour of.  They know how to stock ‘em up there in Newport!  Get on Grenon’s email list (sign up at the website) and you’ll see what I mean.  Second – just a small reminder that I am not compensated in any way by the AD or the brand for this nor any other review I post on this blog – my reviews are solely my own.  Independent, opinionated and forthright is what you get here at First In Watches.  Now, back to the watch…

To me, the best elements of this particular Paul Picot Technicum are its blue “Breguet style” hour and minute hands, its lovely guilloche patterned solid silver dial, and last but not least its rattrapante (or “split second”) function.  The rattrapante is one of my favorite complications, and although it does not have a whole lot of practical application in this digital era, it sure is a heck of a lot of fun to play around with and it makes for some great photo opps!

What else?  Actually, after seeing how splendid this watch is on the video you might be surprised to know that my first impression of it was a bit “ho-hum.”  This is because the watch actually has a rather unassuming presence (in contrast to, say, the Armin Strom Blue Chip Automatic Skeleton, another watch I recently reviewed).  It is relatively small – about 39mm case size – and also (as noted in the review) the watch does not have a bezel.  For these 2 reasons I did not find the watch to have a very signficant “wrist presence”.   Is this good or bad?  Neither, really!  While this will turn many of you away, keep in mind that there are 2 sides to every coin, my friends.  Yes, this watch is likely to be perfect for those of you who have the “big money” and prefer the finest things in life – but at the same time (sometimes or all the time) you prefer not to flaunt your wealth, maintain a relatively low profile, and take great satisfaction in knowing that you are wearing a highly complicated, $18,000 mechanical watch on your wrist and the guy standing next to you at the crosswalk hasn’t a clue.  Is this you?  You know who you are   and if so, I highly recommend this watch to you.

Are you still wondering who Paul Picot is?

I want to make a couple points here as I do not believe that Paul Picot the brand is well known to the average watch enthusiast, nor to perhaps even those who are bit closer to the trade (myself included).   According to the company website, Paul Picot S.A. was founded in the Jura region of Switzerland in 1976 by a Mr. Mario Boiocchi.  Is there an actual “Paul Picot” behind the brand?  I would guess ‘yes’, but I do not know for certain (do you?).  By standards of the watchmaking industry, being founded in “only” 1976 makes Paul Picot a relatively young brand.  The brand prides itself on making “exceptional timepieces” that are “of great precision and extreme technical complexity, equipped with high quality mechanical movements housed in elegant cases.”   The price range of the brand’s collections – entry level about $5,000 up to nearly $100,000 for certain tourbillon models – reinforce the brand’s dedication to the high-end of high-watchmaking.  I would say that the brand’s “sweet spot” as far as price is concerned seems to be in the $10,000 to $20,000 range.  Unfortunately, the website is sparse on any additional details about the brand (hint, hint).

Thanks for watching and reading and I hope you enjoyed the review!  I wish all the reader’s of the blog all the best for 2010!

The watch you will see here is one of the finest watches one could ever hope to own – or wear, if even for a few minutes.  If I think of what this watch tells me when it is on the wrist or under the loupe, I would say that the Armin Strom Blue Chip Automatic Skeleton exudes strength & power, individuality & intricacy – all at once.  With its massive 46.5mm diameter and 16mm thickness, the case of the Blue Chip Skeleton says unequivocally that it is built for a “power player”, and that it is a watch that will take a back seat to none of its equally sized peers.  But this is just the beginning, as this watch has far, far more to offer than just another hulk-sized case.  You see, it is full of incomparable vibrancy and depth – individuality, one might say.  With a fully skeletonized, engraved and finished movement inside the case, the Blue Chip Skeleton tells you that it was carefully, meticulously, and deliberately brought to life by the steady hands of a master.

With this introduction in mind, I invite you to now enjoy my video and photo review of the Armin Strom Blue Chip Automatic Skeleton (reference no. ST09-SA.75):

Photo Gallery:  Armin Strom Blue Chip Automatic (17 Images)

Learn More / Own This Watch

List Price: $17,600.

Want to learn more about Armin Strom?  Click here to visit the Armin Strom website.

Interested in owning this watch?  Inquire Totally Worth It for VIP response.

More about Armin Strom

ARMIN STROM SA – Tradition and Vision

Amongst watch aficionados, Armin Strom’s name is synonymous with the highest level of hand-made skeletons and watch engraving. An exclusive series of skeleton watches based on decades of tradition is now being created in Biel under the watchful eye of the Master. At the same time, a new collection is being launched as “Armin by Armin Strom”, geared towards modern tastes and with a technical orientation.

Armin Strom SA was founded in 2006 and is based in the watch-making center of Biel. The main investor is the well-known Burgdorf industrialist, Willy Michel. At work is a motivated crew whose average age is much lower than the norm for the industry. Targeted investment in state-of-the-art production facilities has allowed the young firm to be increasingly independent from suppliers. The aim is to exist as an actual manufacturer and to make watch movements entirely developed independently. The company’s plans are for the long term with an awareness and strategy to build up in several years a reputable brand, highly regarded for quality production and design.

The firm offers a watch collection under the “Armin Strom” brand whose movements are enhanced with various levels of hand-engraving or partial skeletons, up to a fully hand-made skeleton watch. Understatement is in demand nowadays which is why the skeleton movement is often only visible on the back. The watches are meticulously executed as Armin Strom has always been uncompromising when is comes to quality.

The newly launched label is called “Armin by Armin Strom”, with the emphasis on proprietary manufacture. However, it also represents the modern style of movement embellishment, without neglecting important traditional values. A young, superbly trained and highly motivated team creates new collections emphasizing a modern, technical image. Serge Michel, Managing Director of Armin Strom SA, explains: “We intentionally try to blend tradition with new innovative methods; provisions are being made to transfer the know-how as Armin Strom himself trains the junior watch-makers in-house.”

The first step on this path was taken in 2008, with introduction of the regulator in the Four Elements models, under the new “Armin by Armin Strom” label. Based on a standard movement, the complete construction of a regulator with an off-center arrangement of seconds, minutes and hours, as well as a retrograde date display, was developed and produced “in-house” for the line, all with a modern appearance, including a striking polished or brushed titanium case. The manual winding movements are beautifully engraved and can be admired through the glass back. This engraving is within the DNA standards of Armin Strom.

“We still have a few tricks up our sleeve,” says young watch-maker/constructor Claude Greisler who is responsible for designing new models. “Our own movement has reached a decisive stage, but it will be some time before we can achieve final introduction and subsequent mass production.”

Editors Note

This review and the opinions expressed in it are 100% independent.

(c) 2009 Perpetuelle.com, All rights reserved.

First In Watches reviews an all-black, Swiss-made mechanical watch with excellent luminosity

BALL Watch Co. is known for making sturdy, dependable and highly luminous watches, and the BALL Night Train is no exception. I enjoyed reviewing the Night Train (Reference NM1092C-L1B-BK), which happens to be part of BALL’s Fireman collection.  It is the first I have spent any time with a BALL Watch, and for a watch of this type I can say that overall I am impressed.  The video review pretty much covers everything, with the exception of a few parting thoughts, and several photos, which I share below.

One point I want to reiterate from the video is the excellent luminosity of this watch.  I was a bit disappointed that I was not able to more clearly capture this for you.  I’m not sure why, but it was very difficult to get a good shot on video or on my digital camera – perhaps it was the radioactive tritrium gas playing tricks on my equipment   But I can assure you – it is impressive and I would put my money on a BALL watch any day.  BALL is the “real deal” when it comes to serious lume – no gimmicks needed.

While the BALL Night Train does not suit my personal tastes, it is a nice Swiss-made timepiece that has a lot to offer, and at a reasonable price (~$1,900).  This is more or less an entry level watch for the mechanical automatic Swiss watch category, so if you are looking to start your collection, this would be a good place to start.  Or, if you are looking for watch that you can read in the dark – for hours days months years on end without ever fading and without needing a light source to “charge up” – this watch would be an excellent choice.  Finally, thanks again to Grenon’s of Newport for providing the watch – don’t hesitate to give Ray a call if you are interested in this watch – tell him I sent you and he will take good care of you.

In closing, here are a few pictures of the BALL Night Train DLC:

(note: serial #’s blurred out)

First announced at Baselworld 2009, the Oris ProDiver 51mm is looking like it could be a big hit for both Oris fans and dive watch fans in general.  While this is not a watch I personally reviewed, I think that the review you will see below offers a good look at “the” new watch to have from Oris.

The two gents in the review have some affiliation with the popular Oris fan/commerce website, FriendsOfOris.com, and when it comes to Oris watches they know their stuff!  Thanks for the look at this great new watch, guys!

My one comment on the video would be this:  less of Smithy and Warren, and more of the watch!  Haha – nothing personal guys!  Anyway, enjoy the review:

Movement: Oris Caliber 674, automatic, 25 jewels
Complications: Date, chronograph
Power reserve: 42 hours
Case material: Titanium
Case size: 51 mm
Case height: 22 mm
Dial: Black, with Oris trademark wave pattern
Water resistance: 1000 m
Strap: Titanium bracelet or rubber strap
Crystal: Sapphire, domed, interior antireflective coating

First In Watches Brings You Up Close and Personal With A Spectacular Watch

As you will see below, the limited edition Linde Werdelin SpidoLite skeleton dial with Svend Andersen movement (Ref# SPD.SA) is a truly amazing and unique watch.  Linde Werdelin is a brand I recently raved about for a number of good reasons (see “Related Posts” at the bottom of the post), and after spending some time with its marquee, “attention getting” watch, I am even more excited for the future of Linde Werdelin.

Now, if you don’t already know, the “watch review” philosophy here at First In Watches is that “photos are nice, but video is nicer” – and so I am also excited to bring you this exclusive review of the Linde Werdelin SpidoLite in full HD video!  One quick note before the show – one item discussed in the review is the magnificent “blue rotor” that comes with this watch, but unfortunately the particular watch you see in the video had not yet been fitted with one – so be sure to check out the photo gallery posted below the video for a look at this and other pics of the watch.

Pretty cool watch, eh?  In a nutshell, the SpidoLite SA is a limited edition watch (44 pieces) powered by an automatic movement that has been modified by highly respected watchmaker and AHCI co-founder Svend Anderson and that is packed into an ultra-light and stealthy-looking titanium case with 1,000 feet (300 meters) water resistance.  Oh yea!  There really is little, if anything, not to like about this watch.

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Skelton Dial Photo Gallery

Photos:  K. Stults for First In Watches, except  “Blue Rotor” photo is courtesy of Linde Werdelin.

As for the brand, I would like to see them start making their own movements, but yes I know – this is easier said than done.  All in good time!  Either way, Linde Werdelin is making some spectacular watches right now that any watch enthusiast or collector should give a serious look.  And keep in mind that the SpidoLite Svend Andersen you see here is one of the most expensive watches LW offers (list price is about $12,000), but other collections/models can be yours for somewhere in the $4,300 – $9,700 range.  You can see them all at LindeWerdelin.com, or get in touch with North American distributor Totally Worth It, LLC – info@totallyworthit.com or +1 724 263 2286 / +1 212 828 7749 if you are interested in making a purchase.

In closing, if you want to leave feedback on this review or have any questions about the watch, you can click through to our YouTube channel and rate and comment on the video, or feel free to post a comment or query below.  You may also contact me at kyle [at] perpetuelle.com.  I hope you enjoyed the review.

This is a video review of a watch from a relatively little known watch manufacture – Rinteln, Germany-based Schaumburg Watch Lindburgh & Benson.  It is called the “Auf & Ab Ceramat 1″.  Despite the very “German” model name and the somewhat confusing brand name (is it just “Schaumburg Watch” or “Lindburgh & Benson” or both?), you can see below that this company makes some very nice watches at a fair price (but by no means inexpensive – after all, we only deal in luxury here at First In Watches!).  Further, the brand now makes an in-house movement for some of its watches (including the one you see below), and they have a couple impressive dive watch collections that boast water resistance ratings of up to 2,000 meters and have COSC chronometer-certified movements.  After reviewing this particular watch  I think that Schaumburg Watch could be considered a “hidden gem”, and if you are looking for a high quality mechanical watch from a boutique brand then you should definitively give this watch consideration.  Now on to the review…video + pictures below!

Photos: K. Stults for First In Watches

Now, as for the shortcomings of this watch, there are only two and they are minor – first, I find the black leather strap to be too plain and also a bit stiff out of the box, although I am sure it would “break in” just fine after a few days on the wrist.  Second, on the dial the numerals “4″ “8″ and “10″ on the dial are “cut-off” to make room for the sub-dials – but this is also a somewhat quirky criticism as it is one related to design and thus more a matter of personal preference.  I also have one suggestion, which is that they make their brand name a bit more marketable (and less requiring of valuable dial space) by going with either “Schaumburg Watch” or “Lindburgh & Benson” – not both.  I think it would do them wonders from a marketing and brand recognition aspect.

Overall, the positives of this watch far outweigh the negatives – you have seen for yourself that it is a sharp looking watch with a nicely decorated manufacture movement – and it has its own “character” and distinct design.   Further, I think the price – $2,850 -  is pretty good for a watch with a decorated, in-house movement and a power reserve gauge on a ceramic dial.  In fact, a watch with these characteristics will probably be hard to obtain elsewhere at such a price.

If you would like to know more or are interested in bringing this watch into your own collection, or seeing others like it, give a call or send an email to Ray Grenon (www.grenons.com), who is now the exclusive U.S. distributor for Schaumburg Watch, and he will be glad to help you out.

Editor’s Note:  watch provided courtesy Grenon’s of Newport.

Are these highly customized “all black” watches a fad or here to stay?

_____Black-out concept _________________________________Bamford & Son___

I have seen some news and Internet discussion (see here-PW, here-Selectism, here-Business Montres, here-Hodinkee) over the past couple years about 2 companies operating in “aftermarket” watch customization of a very specific kind – that is, the creation of “all black” watches – so I thought I would take the opportunity to give you a quick run down.   Bamford & Sons of Sloan Square in London first offered their all black Rolex Daytona, all black Rolex Submariner, and all black Rolex GMT in 2007, and have since expanded their offering to include an all black Rolex Milgauss, all black Rolex Explorer II, all black Rolex Yacht-Master, and most recently an all black Tag Heuer Monaco.  Black Out concept, based in Switzerland, was created in 2007 and showcases a variety of all black watches on their website as well as some pretty sweet looking exotic automobiles, too.

Interestingly, these two companies have quite a different approach to their “all black” watches, which I have compared and contrasted for your here:

Although Bamford & Sons seems a bit more “polished” in their presentation (fancier, more functional website, etc.), I have to give the edge to Black-Out concept for their “edge” and attitude when it comes to an aftermarket all black watch. I also like that the Black-Out concept is reversible (or so the company claims), and you can use a watch from your existing collection (or any watch , really) whereas Bamford is limited to just two selections the Rolex Submariner and the Tag Heuer Monaco.  And finally, I like some of Black-out concept’s other work as well, namely this blacked out Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorano

But I digress!  As for me, well….the traditional watch enthusiast in me finds many of these “customised” “all black” watches, particularly the Rolexes, to be very unsightly.  In many ways it makes the watch look like a cheap counterfeit.  But hey, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right?  And if someone wants to “black out” their Rolex Milguass, Submariner, GMT, Deepsea, or Daytona, then by all means go for it!  Undoubtedly the demand for these watches is small – which is why the brands do not and are unlikely to ever produce their own – well, some brands do offer “all black” models, but I think the attraction here is actually the whole “aftermarket” concept and being able to mod your luxury watch just because you can!

So, are customized “all black” watches a fad or will they be yesterday’s news before we know it?  Feel free to post a comment below and let me know what you think!

Technical Specifications

Brand: Glashütte Original

Collection: Senator

Model: Automatic

Ref: 100-08-03-02-04-01

Movement: Automatic GO Caliber 100