Perpetuelle.com Blog » Baselworld 2010

Jaquet Droz Grande Heure Minute Onyx

Kyle — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 16:27:06 +0000

Onyx…

As I was recently reviewing some of the new watches presented at Baselworld, I came across this beauty from Swatch Group-owned Montres Jaquet Droz – the Grande Heure Minute Onyx. It is said that of all the stones used by Montres Jaquet Droz’s expert dial-makers, onyx is particularly admired. This composition of onyx (dial) and steel (case) is particularly alluring. In a world of intricate and often highly detailed watch designs, this watch really stands apart in a simple, graceful sort of way. Definitely the standout piece in the 2010 Jaquet Droz collection.

“Majestic Beijing”

43mm stainless steel case, Reference J017030201, Centered hours and minutes. Small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, comes on a rolled-edge hand made black alligator leather strap with matching stainless steel buckle

Price may be in the $15,000 range, but just a guess.

Breguet Marine Royale 2010

Kyle — Tue, 06 Apr 2010 12:35:44 +0000

New for 2010…

Breguet Marine Royale (Ref 5847BB/12/BZ0)

45mm 18-carat white gold case, automatic movement, alarm (marked by the blue triangular hand, on/off indicator at 12 o’clock, alarm power reserve indication aperture between 9 and 11 o’clock), date, luminous hands, water-resistant to 300m, sapphire-crystal caseback.

Did you know it has been just over 10 years now since Swatch Group acquired Breguet? Yes indeed, I tell you its true, but enough history for now. The watch you see here represents the 2010 model for Breguet’s Marine collection. In addition to the specs above, the watch is also available in white gold with black dial, rose gold with black dial, and rose gold with rose gold dial. I estimate prices for all these models will be in the $35,000-$45,000 range.

While I think that the Breguet Marine collection has gotten stronger each of the past few years, and while I could certainly see myself “looking good” while sporting a watch like this off the upper deck of something like this, I still have trouble seeing this as a true “dive” or even “marine” watch, though with 300m water resistance and Breguet quality construction I’m not sure if my perception is warranted or not. It’s just that when I think of Breguet, “King of Tourbillons” is often the first thing that pops into my head, not marine/dive watches.

Don’t get me wrong — I generally like Breguet watches, and if I had my druthers, I would opt for a Breguet Type XXI (specifically, the very striking, very awesome Ref 3810BR/92/9ZU – pink gold case with dark brown dial and brown strap) or perhaps even the new Breguet Type XXII rather than this Marine watch. But to each his own, right? Let me know what you think of this watch and Breguet in general — drop a comment below!

For the Apnea Enthusiast: BALL EMII Diver World Time

Kyle — Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:40:44 +0000

No, not sleep apnea! I’m talking about a tribute watch for champion free diver Guillaume Néry…

Announced at Baselworld 2010, this new BALL Engineer Master II dive watch now features a world time function. The 45mm diamter brushed steel case (black or white dial) houses a modified ETA 2836 movement (added the world time function). With bi-directional rotating bezel, screw-in crown(s) and 300m water resistance, this should be a pretty solid diver. Comes on a rubber strap or brushed stainless steel bracelet. The watch was created as a tribute to Guillaume Néry (his portrait is engraved on the caseback), and yes there is more to his story below.

Guillaume Néry: A Freediving Star

28-year old Frenchman Guillaume Néry is a BALL Watch ambassador and is known for his feats as a freediver. Perhaps not surprisingly, he is also an ardent advocate and supporter of the oceans and protecting the marine environment. In 2006, he became the world record holder for “constant weight apnea” (aka freediving with a fin(s)) when he descended to an astonishing depth of 109 meters (357.6 feet). He was subsequently bested by Austrian Herbert Nitsch and others, with Nitsch now being the current world record holder in the constant weight category. Nitsch’s accomplishment? 123 meters – or 403.5 feet!

To a landlubber such as myself this kind of thing is totally insane! At these levels, this sport absolutely pushes the limits of human physical capability. To me it is almost incomprehensible how they can accomplish such depths — truly amazing. You can judge for youself here in this BALL sponsored video of Néry’s then record-setting 109 meter freedive:

Néry Freedive to a depth of 109 meters (357.6 feet)

H. Moser Perpetual Moon

Kyle — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 21:11:33 +0000

An elegant watch with an exceptionally accurate moon phase display…

For whatever reason this is the first I have written about Swiss watch brand H. Moser & Cie. on the blog. Perhaps because its PR efforts are about as understated as its watches. But for those of us who like the sophisticated, understated look, H. Moser is definitely a brand to keep in mind. While relatively obscure , the brand is known amongst watch collectors for its exceptionally graceful watch designs and well finished movements, as well as its commitment to post-purchase service. Prices for its watches start at around $10,000 and go up from there.

This year at Baselworld, H. Moser introduced two new models. The one I am sharing with you here is the H. Moser Perpetual Moon. This watch features a moon phase display which deviates only by a single day after more than 1,000 years.

H. Moser Perpetual Moon

40.8 mm case in platinum or red gold, dark blue fumé dial

The complicated gear train of the Perpetual Moon watch translates the interval of time that it takes the moon to orbit the earth so precisely that the resulting deviation is only 0.23 seconds per day. Or a whole day after 1,027.30 years. In order to achieve the extraordinarily high display accuracy, the moon disc must be securely attached to the hour indicator and run with it continuously. Here is a slightly closer look at each variation:

Platinum

Rose Gold

I also have here a nice video which will give you a better feel for the brand’s style. Learn more at http://www.h-moser.com/.

H. Moser Mayu Marrone

Presenting the Bell & Ross “Green Ceramic” Military Watch in Video

Kyle — Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:43:59 +0000

Up close and in video with the green ceramic watch…

Last week you saw the new Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Green Ceramic watch. I knew this watch was a winner as soon as I saw it, and it is definitely one of the best watches to come out of Baselworld 2010, in my view. Now you can see this watch in up-close and in video – as presented by Roberto Passariello, Communications Director for Bell & Ross. It looks simply outstanding – B&R really has really nailed the whole “Instrument” concept.

Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL

Kyle — Tue, 23 Mar 2010 13:03:42 +0000

The perfect blend of color and materials finally make this concept work…

The Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL was first introduced at Basel 2008. The concept behind this watch is a good one, which is to engineer and design the watch so that there is a minimalistic dial (at least not in the traditional sense of a dial) and the bridge (beautifully engraved) and balance wheel are visible through the front of the watch (normally features that appear on the back of a watch). As I say while the concept is a good one, I never liked the color scheme of the first watches GO released (pictured below). When I first personally handled the watch, I found that the black rings with applied gold numerals indicating the hours and minutes just did not seem to find harmony with the rest of the watch — in fact I think they drew the eye’s attention away from from the most visually compelling element of the watch, the engraved bridge and related components.

The first generation PanoInverse XL watches (2008) were not attractive to me

This year, however, is a different story. At Baselworld 2010, Glashutte Original introduced a new variation of the PanoInverse XL in stainless steel case with a subtle graphite/gray finish on the dial. Everything about this watch works. As you can see, the use of stainless steel numerals and accents looks so much better and more refined that the prior gold-accented versions. The watch looks amazing!

Taking a closer look (below), you can see the hand-engraved duplex swan-neck bridge is visually impressive. The duplex swan-neck fine adjustment introduced by Glahütte Original in 2002 is the epitome of demanding haute horlogerie and innovative and aesthetic movement design. This is a feature rarely seen in watches today. Functionally, what this mechanism allows is for the timekeeping rate of the watch to be finely adjusted (for example, if it is running somewhat too fast or too slow).

Glashütte Original always pays great attention to the finest details, and this watch is no exception. For example, notice below that the applied numerals and hour markers are curved/shaped to add to the depth of the watch. Impressive.

In summary, I think that this unique “inverse” concept has finally been masterfully executed, primarily as a result of some improvements in the color tones of the watch, and I would be proud to own such a fine timepiece.

Zenith Ultra Thin Elite 681

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 18:49:05 +0000

Classically handsome…

Two new Zenith watches presented at Baselworld this year really made a fine impression on me and many other watch enthusiasts collectors. Seems that Zenith has made a bit of a return to the “classic” and “timeless” designs that it is known for, and I think the brand will be handsomely rewarded in the marketplace for these new watches. The first watch is the El Primoro 1/10th second foudroyante – which you can check out here. The second model is this new “ultra-thin” watch. Simple and elegant, it is an ideal dress watch:

Zenith Elite 681 Ultra Thin

40mm case housing ultra-thin (3.81 mm) Elite 681 self-winding calibre with 50 hrs power reserve

18 carat rose gold (pictured) or stainless steel with sapphire crystal display back. comes on an alligator strap with matching metal buckle

Patek Philippe 5960P Blue Dial

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 18:27:45 +0000

Ref. 5960P: Annual Calendar chronograph in platinum with a new dial…

This watch, combining two of the most popular horological complications (calendar and chronograph), has ranked among of Patek’s bestsellers since it was launched in 2006. This year’s third and newest addition to the collection has a vivid matte blue sunburst dial that is undoubtedly the defining element of this watch. Set against a platinum case, it really is splendid. I just can’t enough of it! The manufacture movement – an automatic, column-wheel chronograph (the CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H) – is all you would expect from Patek. The exquisite finishing of the movement with hand-chamfered steel levers and bridges as well as elegant Geneva striping deserve the exposure provided by the screwed case back with a sapphire crystal window. The hand-stitched, large-scaled blue alligator strap with platinum fold-over clasp completes the watch.

Just one of many fantastic new watches from Patek Philippe this year!

Baselworld 2010: Franc Vila EVOS Cobra Watches

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 15:52:28 +0000

New colors in the brand’s Cobra collection…

Exclusive Spanish watchmaker Franc Vila is always worth keeping an eye on (see my prior writeups on his watches here and here). His watches are unmistakable due to their very unique design and shape. I think the Cobra collection was first unveiled last year, and this year we see some exciting new colors in this particular model, the Big Date Automatic. Yellow is my favorite, but there is also blue and red-accents this year, and I thought they would be worth sharing here.

Cobra “Yellow”

The case on these watches is a combination of what Vila calls “DieHard Extreme Steel” and carbon-fiber, with titanium accents. Water resistant 300 meters. Movement is an automatic mechanical hand finished Caliber FV8Ch with Franc Vila’s unique “Gold Concept Rotor”. Dial is also a combination of carbon fiber and guilloché (decorated) metal, with chronograph and “Big date” indicators. Comes on a black rubber strap with steel deployant buckle and as a nice bonus a crocodile leather strap with matching stitchings is also included. Price will be about $20,000. All are limited to just 88 pieces.

Cobra “Blue Bandido” (exclusive to the U.S.)

Cobra “Red Bandido”

Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumiere Skeleton

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 15:06:58 +0000

Minimal, transparent and elegant…

For the first time we see a very obvious Daniel Roth watch with the Bulgari brand on it. While I’m still not sure how this whole “co-branding” thing will work out between Bulgari and Daniel Roth (Bulgari owns Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta and recently announced that Bulgari brand would essentially become the primary brand –and you can read more here), I can still appreciate the incredible look of this new watch. The plates, bridges and ratchet-wheel are meticulously openworked. The dial merges into the movement and features a minimum of finely engraved metal serving to mark the hour circle on the front and the power-reserve display on the back. The main plate is barely 3.48 mm thick, making this model one of the world’s thinnest tourbillon watches.

Bulgari Daniel Roth Tourbillon Lumière

44 mm 18-carat rose gold, mechanical hand-wound “skeleton-work” movement, Calibre DR 780, Tourbillon, power-reserve display, hand-decorated gold bridges and mainplate, 64-hour power reserve, anti-glare sapphire crystals on the front and back, blued steel serpentine hands. comes on alligator leather strap with rose gold pin buckle.

Baselworld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase In the Metal

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 13:41:20 +0000

As seen at Baselworld 2010…

Regular readers of this blog know that I am a big fan of the astounding moon phase function on the new Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase diver. See my write-ups Baselworld 2010: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphaseand Linde Werdelin’s Photorealistic Moonphase for more detail. Frank @ Monochrome snapped this great pic of the watch on display at Baselworld, and I wanted to share it because it shows you quite well that this watch is everything I have built it up to be:

Baselworld 2010: Oris Raid Chronograph Watch

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 02:17:42 +0000

1952 Jaguar XK 120 inspired…

This is a sharp looking new limited edition watch from Oris. The scoop on this watch? Oris is the new time keeper and Official Watch Partner of the RAID classic car rallies, and to mark the occasion of the 20th RAID Suisse-Paris Oris has created this watch. Since 1991 this rally has been staged in Switzerland and France as a classic car rally and sees competitors cover up to 1000km on country roads in cars built before 1975. The dial design is inspired by the dashboard of a 1952 Jaguar XK 120 (winner of the 2009 RAID rally). The hour and minute counters have a distinctive red zone, which reflects the red danger zone of the Jaguar’s rev counter. Very clean, very well designed, and probably decently priced — I like it.

Oris RAID Chronograph, Limited to 500 pieces, Ref: 676 7603 4084 LS/MB

43.5mm steel case, automatic mechanical movement, 30m water resistance

1952 Jaguar XK 120

Baselworld 2010 Opening Weekend Recap

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 01:30:51 +0000

Our Baselworld coverage continues…but first a recap…

As you know Perpetuelle.com has been quite busy these past few days bringing you all of the latest and greatest new watches from the world’s finest independent watchmakers and leading luxury brands. Thank you all for visiting the site these past few days! My team and I take great pride in quite literally working around the clock to bring you the most comprehensive and the most timely coverage of Baselworld possible. This is our passion. It is an event such as Baselworld that we live for, and we hope some of our passion is being transmitted to you!

Now – since “opening weekend” is now behind us, I wanted to give you a quick recap before I move on. First a quick reminder that here on First In Watches, the official Perpetuelle.com blog, I am almost exclusively highlighting only the most exciting new watches to come out of Baselworld. I do critique some of the “less than impressive” watches and watch brands because hey, let’s be honest these brands can and should do better. As an independent voice, I’m not afraid to point out a poorly conceived watch when I see one, but overall I try to remain focused on the positive and write about only the watches that I like or find interesting. Just remember that you are entitled to your opinion and all are welcome to post a comment (even the brands themselves) for a balanced discussion.

So, in alphabetical order, here is what I have featured since last Wednesday. Be sure to check out any that you missed!

Finally, don’t forget that the FULL lineup of new watches (complete with specs and info) for each brand is available on our official Baselworld 2010 Forum. Perpetuelle’s Forum Moderator James Bond is doing an excellent job keeping the forum current, however if we are missing something feel free to let us know (contact us tab is above).

Looking forward to tomorrow – well, it is a new day and Baselworld continues – believe me there are still MANY new and exciting watches yet to come!

Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Ceramic

Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 Carbon and BR 126 Carbon

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms blah blah

Breguet Type XXII 3880 ST

Breitling Bentley Supersports

Chronoswiss Opus Black Magicu

Corum Ti Bridge Tourbillon

Frédéric Jouvenot Hélios

Glashütte Original PanoMatic Counter XL

Glashütte Original Senator Diary

Grand Seiko Going International

Green dial green bezel Rolex Submariner

Harry Winston Opus X

Hublot “Liberty” Bullets, by the Confrérie Horlogère

Hublot King Power Tourbillon Manufacture

Jean Dunand Palace

Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo

Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Round

Maurice Lacroix “Square Wheel”

New Rolex Explorer

OMEGA Seamaster PloProf white dial (new variation)

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Apollo-Soyuz 35th anniversary

Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref 5170

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref 5961P)

Patek Philippe Steel Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref 5950A)

Perrelet Diamond Flower Ceramic

Recommended Reading: “Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking”, by Michael Clerizo

Rolex Explorer 214270

Rolex Teaser

Tag Heuer Carrera 1887 Chronograph

TAG Heuer Pendulum Watch

Tudor Heritage Chrono (with Video)

No related posts.

Baselworld 2010: DeWitt Blackstream Collection

Kyle — Mon, 22 Mar 2010 00:21:18 +0000

A new and sportier collection from DeWitt…

While I was not at all impressed by Montres DeWitt’s new Twenty-8 Eight watch, the brand has officially unveiled a new collection – the “Blackstream” collection – that is worth a closer look. The collection is intended to appeal to a younger (but surely still wealthy) clientele seeking a somewhat sportier watch and while the watches do look kinda sophisticated and luxuriously sporty, I wish there was a bit more of a “wow” factor. DeWitt indicated that it has drawn inspiration from aviation and auto racing themes for the Blackstream watches, but I would say the influence is definitely subtle aka barely discernible, in my view. The features that I like most about these watches are its fine sunray pattern on the dial and also the open-worked hands in the shape of a two-edged sword. The dissociated date (on the Triple Complication GMT3 (below), however, does not appeal to me in the least.

What do you think? Any DeWitt owners/fans out there care to weigh in with a comment? I’d love to hear from you.

DeWitt Academa Blackstream Triple Complication GMT3

44mm case w/titanium and PVD treatment, black rubber or alligator strap, limited edition 250 pieces

DeWitt Academia Blackstream Chronograph

44 mm case constructed of titanium with black PVD treatment, black alligator or rubber strap, limited edition 250 pieces

Baselworld 2010: DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight

Rebellion T-1000 Hour Power Reserve (Live Pic)

Kyle — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 22:23:00 +0000

Update: VIDEO added (below)

Power reserve = 1,000 hours…

After the successful presentation in January of The Predator, their first watch with a round case, the young and audacious Swiss watch brand Rebellion decided to take on a new challenge – creating a watch with a 1,000 hour power reserve. The result? The Rebellion T-1000. The body of the T-1OOO was designed in a collaboration of Eric Giroud and Rebellion and is inspired by elements of car racing. Time is displayed via a vertical roller-display, while at 6 o’clock, a double balance releases the immense power at a precisely controlled rate. A window in the side of the case reveals one of the mainspring barrels, with markers providing a natural “Fuel Gauge” of the state of the power reserve. To generate the 1,000 hours of power generated by the watch, six (!) mainspring barrels are employed in what is a patented system. The over-sized winding lever is all too appropriate for such a colossal power reserve. Credit to Frank @ Monochrome and Ian Skellern for the pics above.

I’m still waiting on some better pics from Rebellion — it is still a bit difficult to understand/appreciate this watch from its one and only press photo:

T -1OOO – TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Limited edition: 100 pieces
Calibre: REB T-1000, manual winding with integrated winding lever
Jewels: 14 ceramic & 22 rubies
Balance: double hairspring inclined at 39°
Winding system: Patented system of six mainsprings wound in parallel by chain and prop shaft.
The barrels discharge power in series to provide an optimal torque curve.
Indications: hours and minutes displayed on rollers
Power reserve: 1′000+ hours provided by six (2 x 3) vertical mainspring barrels
Number of components: 693 for the chassis
Balance frequency: 18′000 bph (2.5Hz)
Material: case in titanium and chassis in aluminium
Dimensions: 46,7 mm X 46,9 mm / 19,5 mm
Crown: time-setting mechanism using patented push-button clutch system
Water resistance: 50 metres
Strap: black alligator leather
Buckle: patented folding clasp with micrometric push button regulation allowing easy adjustment of length on the wrist.

Baselworld 2010 Live Pics: Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Skeleton Rose Gold

Kyle — Sun, 21 Mar 2010 22:16:28 +0000

Great looking watch…

You may recall that I first showed you pics of 2 new variations on Linde Werdelin’s popular Spidolite watch last October. Courtesy of Frank @ Monochrome, here are a couple “in the metal” pics of the beautiful looking rose gold version that is on display at Baselworld 2010. If you would like to learn more about Linde Werdelin’s Spidolite collection, I suggest you watch my video review of the Spidolite SA Titanium and you can also read my October 19, 2009 post mentioned above. Enjoy the pics!

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms blah blah

Kyle — Sat, 20 Mar 2010 04:17:50 +0000

Mmmmm, nope! Blancpain has no mojo…

I have not seen much from Blancpain yet this year, and what I have heard has been, well, less than impressive. For 2010 Blancpain expands the Fifty Fathoms collection to embrace the complications of a moon phase and a complete calendar married with the traditional sport companion of a column-wheel controlled flyback chronograph, and I must say that I don’t like it. There is too much going on in this watch that is wholly inconsistent with the identity of what is otherwise a storied luxury dive watch line (that is, the Fifty Fathoms). Not to mention that after seeing the Oktopus Moonphase watch from Linde Werdelin, I think the bar was set impossibly high for most brands to keep up with this year in the dive watch segment, and that now includes Blancpain.

On the (small) plus side, the watch does utilize Blancpain’s patented “under lug correctors” that eliminate the need for adjusters on the sides of the case and which allow finger-tip setting in place of an adjusting tool. The under lug correctors are also used on another new watch from Blancpain this year, the Villeret Moon Phase.

I don’t want to dwell on the subject, but as a member of the Swatch Group’s “prestige brands” segment, I think Blancpain needs to step up its game. I don’t have any good sense of the brand’s direction nor do I see from it an outsanding watch that is defining the brand at the moment. Maybe the Super Trofeo, which was a cool new intro last year, but that’s all that comes to mind. To be perfectly blunt, I have a real hard time finding a reason to get excited about the brand, which means that this may be the last watch you see from the brand here on this blog until Baselworld 2011…OK that it unlikely, but still…

http://blog.perpetuelle.com/index.php/watch-interviews/masters-of-contemporary-watchmaking-michael-clerizo/

Hublot “Liberty” Bullets, by the Confrérie Horlogère

Kyle — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 14:58:25 +0000

Give me liberty, or give me death…and tell me what time it is while you’re at it!

One thing I like about Hublot is all the wild Hublot-branded accessories they come up with. More than your usually seen cufflinks and pens that other brands will often produce as companion items for their watches, Hublot goes all out with items like skis, a bicycle, and so on. This year Hublot has a very cool item courtesy of the its talented and highly specialized watchmaking division known as the Confrérie Horlogère (this group makes Hublot’s highly complicated watches, for example its new in-house tourbillon).

So what we have here is a reinterpretation of the pocket watch in the form of a gun cartridge, poetically christened “Liberty” and housing a Tourbillon. These “bullets” can be worn on a bracelete or as a pendant or I suppose even carried in one’s pocket. They are constructed with a titanium bullet head and black aluminum base. As you can see, the time display is a “roller display”. “Whether your desire is to save time, let it slip by or even kill it, freedom of choice is priceless … “ hahahah – I like it!

Editor’s Update: On sale as of June 2010. Price? $79,000 per pair (some expensive firepower!)

Quite the Conversation Pieces!

Baselworld 2010: Chronoswiss Opus Black Magic

Kyle — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 14:46:03 +0000

This year, Chronoswiss will provides a variation on its signature Opus watch – the skeletonized automatic Opus Chronograph and Grand Opus Chronograph, both of which are now available in black. These watches get their “black magic” from Chronoswiss’s “Dianor” DLC (diamond like carbon) coating process. I do not get the sense that “dianor” is anything exceptional, but rather the brand name that Chronswiss has chose to use for marketing effect. Chronoswiss does claim, however, that Dianor is different from many commercially available coatings and is the result of an original, patented process. “Using a pulsating ray of light, a plasma is created in a vacuum environment that is aimed at the substrate to be coated. Thus, a much higher amount of diamond is created that produces more than double the hardness of the coating.” Minutiae.

The model still maintains the classic Chronoswiss characteristics with a fluted screw-down bezel, screw-down polished case back in addition to a solid metal oignon-style crown and screw-in lugs with patented Autobloc System. The hands are painted bright red and/or luminous white.

No related posts.

Breguet Type XXII 3880 ST

Kyle — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 19:59:04 +0000

XX…XXI….and now XXII

The best new release from Breguet this year…the Breguet Type XXII Flyback. Aside from its obvious visual appeal, the watch is interesting in a couple ways. First, its chronograph seconds hand that makes a complete rotation in 30 seconds, not the usual 60 on most watches. What this means, logically, is that it takes two full sweeps of the seconds hand (the red hand, below) to time one minute – and to tell the wearer how far along in each minute they are (i.e. the first or the second 30 seconds!) there is a small indicator near 12 o’clock.

The Breguet Type XXII chronograph also features a flyback function, allowing the totaliser to be returned to zero and instantly restarted in one and the same push of the button. Furthermore, the dial includes a second time-zone indicator along with an aperture for a date calendar.

This watch will be a hit, no doubt about it. Price? about $18,000.

TAG Heuer Pendulum Watch

Kyle — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 16:09:14 +0000

The first-ever mechanical movement without hairspring…

Overall, I would say that my taste in watches tends to run more towards the traditional. But this new concept watch from TAG Heuer just unveiled at Baselworld 2010, – the Pendulum – seems to be a great technological innovation and thus worth a closer look. Watch the video first and then I’ll “show and tell” you more about this new and exciting concept watch.

TAG Heuer Pendulum demonstration

The basic concept here is that the hairspring has inherent physical limitations (gravity and temperature are its primary ‘enemies’). New materials such as silicon have made great improvements in overcoming these limitations, but still they exist. So what did TAG Heuer do? It got rid of the hairspring entirely and replaced it with an innovative pendulum “spring” that is regulated by magnets. The pendulum beats at a very high frequency 43,200/hour (6 Hertz) and requires no additional components give its firm rooting in the physics of magnetism. Pendulum gets its name from a creation of the original inventor of the hairspring, Christiaan Huygens in 1675— he actually invented the pendulum clock in 1657.

Baselworld 2010: Glashütte Original PanoMatic Counter XL

Kyle — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:58:17 +0000

I would consider using it for my golf game, but it only counts to 99…

Well, this concept is almost so simple you wouldn’t think it has any value. But for some reason the Glashütte Original PanoMatic Counter XL has made the prospect of “counting” quite enticing. As GO says, “One. Two. Three….that’s a start. Now use your imagination” Red numerals appear on a black ground in a double-digit window positioned at 9 o’clock. The wearer activates the counter using three pushers positioned on the left side of the stainless steel case. The plus pusher at 9 o’clock moves the count forward, one unit at a time, from 00 to 99; the minus pusher at 8 o’clock counts down, and the zero pusher at 10 o’clock resets to zero (00). Counter aside, this is one sharp looking watch:

You can SEE ALL THE NEW 2010 GLASHUTTE ORIGINAL watches here on Perpetuelle’s Official Baselworld Forum.

Baselworld 2010: Corum Ti Bridge Tourbillon

Kyle — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:48:16 +0000

Liking the “Corum Key” accent on the tourbillon…

You can also check out the Corum “Deep Hull 48″ and the rest of the new Corum models on our Official Baselworld 2010 Forum.

Baselworld 2010: Tudor Heritage Chrono (with Video)

Kyle — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:38:01 +0000

Seems this Tudor may outshine its sister brand Rolex…

This new watch from Tudor seems it could be a bit of a surprise hit for the brand. Says who? My friends at Hodinkee whose opinion I respect highly on matters pertaining like these (vintage reissues, Rolex, Tudor, etc.). I would add that this watch is particularly refershing compared to the fairly uninspiring new models from its larger and more esteemed parent brand, Rolex. The color combination is great, particularly with the matching fabric strap. Size is 42mm and estimated price is about $4,000 (according to my friends at Hodinkee). Here’s a cool video for you to enjoy, as well as some official pics from Tudor. You can see the entire 2010 Tudor Collection over on our Official Baselworld Forum.

No related posts.

Baselworld 2010: Glashütte Original Senator Diary

Kyle — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:20:36 +0000

Technical triumph – a mechanical alarm that can be set up to 30 days in advance…

Well, it looks like it will be another great year for perhaps my favorite brand, Glashütte Original, “Made in Germany”. While I do not see any “Senator Chronometer’s” in the mix (a particular model that GO introduced last year that was a huge hit for the brand), I can say that the master watchmakers in Glashütte, Germany managed to maintain the high standards of the brand again this year with a very solid lineup of new watches. Design-wise, they did not go far from the brand’s core look and feel or push the envelope too hard, but instead came up with several solid new watches that are elegant and beautiful. Technically/mechanically, they are putting forth at least one or two interesting new complications, and the first that I would like to highlight comes from the new Senator Diary. This watch has a mechanical alarm function that can be set up to 30 days in advance. This is a world first, and for a mechanical watch is quite impressive if you think about it. This watch also looks beautiful and is perhaps my favorite from Glashütte Original this year.

The Senator Diary is available as described above and in a version featuring a rose gold
case, rose gold hour, minute and sweep second hands and applied rose gold hour
markers on a galvanized silver dial. The date indicator on the diary alarm subdial is in blue,
as is the small arrow indicating the diary alarm time aperture at 6 o’clock. Both versions
feature a finely worked black Louisiana alligator leather strap.

Hublot King Power Tourbillon Manufacture

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:34:54 +0000

Celebrating 30 years of Hublot…

Limited edition of 30 pieces, with a a Tourbillon movement manufactured in-house by the Confrérie Horlogère Hublot (, specialists in complex watch complications (whom Hublot recently acquired). Hublot’s CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, talks proudly: “This anniversary piece represents a symbol of both strength and aesthetic beauty, illustrating on the one hand the exceptional journey made by Hublot over the last few years and, on the other, the special design and positioning that we have succeeded in building and making unique, whilst still remaining faithful to the original style of Hublot watches.”

Case “King Power”, diameter 48 mm in black ceramic, Water resistance 100 m

Hands Polished black nickel hour and minute hands with black SuperLuminova™

Movement Hand wound Tourbillon with off-centre hour and minute indicators at 12 o’clock and seconds via the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock. Calibre Hublot HUB6002, Power Reserve 120 hours

Edition Limited to 30 pieces numbered from 01/30 to 30/30

Baselworld 2010 Rolex Explorer 214270

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:23:56 +0000

UPDATE: ** Full Specs / Press Release / Pics of the Entire 2010 Rolex Collection here**

Explorer is upsized to 39mm…

and that’s about the extent of my analysis for now –I know you just want to see the official Rolex pics and see the specs on the of the new Rolex Explorer—you’ve come to the right place!

Rolex Explorer 214270 – Price: $5,650

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
REFERENCE (CASE / BRACELET): 214270 / 77200

Case
Diameter: 39 mm
Material: 904L steel
Bezel: fixed, smooth
Winding crown: Twinlock
Crystal: sapphire
Waterproofness: 100 m (330 ft)
Movement
Calibre: 3132
Self-winding: Perpetual rotor
Oscillator: frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 beats/hour)
Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil
Paraflex shock absorbers
Precision: COSC-certified chronometer
Power reserve: ~48 hours
Dial
Hour markers: luminescent Chromalight
Hands: luminescent Chromalight
Bracelet
Material: 904L steel
Type: Oyster
Clasp: Oysterlock with Easylink comfort extension link

Jean Dunand Palace

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 18:30:30 +0000

From the man who brought us Shabaka…

A masterful mechanical creation from the artisan of exceptional timpieces Jean Dunand…with caliber by Christophe Claret…(excerpts below from the press release). Price? $410,000.

Jean Dunand Palace

703 parts (53 jewels), mono-pusher chronograph, one-minute flying tourbillon, seconds and 60 min counter, power reserve and GMT for 2nd time zone via linear displays, chain-drive for winding mechanism (manual wind)

According to Jean Dunand’s CEO Thierry Oulevay, “The primary inspiration of the Palace is the cultural and societal transformation of Western civilisation during a 50-year period, defined as 1880-1930.” Placing that time span in context, the Palace takes its name from the structure that preceded and heralded the age, London’s Crystal Palace, built for the Great Exhibition of 1851, while sharing aesthetic details with the architectural pinnacle of the era: the Eiffel Tower.

Instead of a rotary dial, the Palace shows its second time zone through 12-hour indications on either side of the oval-shaped trace. The indicator arrow, mounted in a disc that mirrors that of the power reserve, makes two passes. When the disc reaches the end, it flies back to the top and the arrow rotates 180 degrees to chart the other scale. Adjustments to the GMT scale, in one hour increments, are made through the GMT advance button positioned between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

At the heart of the manually-wound Palace beats a one-minute flying tourbillon, placed at the 6 o’clock position, the balance operating at a frequency of 3Hz. Above it are skeletal hour and minute hands, and a sapphire crystal 60-minute counter for the chronograph. On either side of the flying tourbillon are two vertical tracks, the one in the right-hand corner charting its 72-hour power reserve, the other a linear GMT indicator.

The winder communicates its power to the barrel via an exquisitely-fashioned, microscopically tiny chain, designed, according to Oulevay, “to evoke the chain drive of vintage Indian and Vincent motorcycles. It even has a minuscule tensioner.”

So complex and detail-rich is the Palace that each will be supplied with a loupe, to enable the owner to study it over the years. Its many details and secrets will reveal themselves surreptitiously, the observer finding something new to admire every time it is examined. Such a wealth of function, form and detail demands a stately enclosure: at 38mm by 36mm the movement is larger than most complete watches, so the majestic case is a generous 48mm by 49mm providing the spaciousness a Palace deserves.

No related posts.

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Apollo-Soyuz 35th anniversary

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 15:36:13 +0000

Great Story Watch…black meteorite dial…

OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Apollo-Soyuz “35th anniversary”
Black meteorite dial with silvery finish subdials in rhodium-plated circling
Limited edition of 1,975 pieces

A very well written history of the Apollo-Soyuz, Courtesy of OMEGA:

July 15th, 1975 marked the beginning of an important chapter in space exploration. On that day the United States launched an Apollo rocket, referred to as the Apollo Soyuz Test Project (ASTP) Command Module and the Soviet Union sent Soyuz 19 into space.

Two days later a remarkable thing happened: the two spacecraft representing these former adversaries in the space race docked and the three astronauts and two cosmonauts met in the middle where they shook hands, exchanged gifts and spoke with each other as they orbited the Earth.

The ships remained docked for 44 hours after which they separated, and manoeuvred to use the Apollo to create an artificial solar eclipse which allowed the crew of the Soyuz to take photographs of the solar corona. Another brief docking was made before the ships concluded their own journeys separately. The Soviets remained in space for five days altogether, the Americans for nine.

It was the first time that spacecraft built by different nations had docked and signalled an era of cooperation in space which would lead to the efforts to build a permanently occupied space station. The mission also marked the end of an era – it was the final flight of the Apollo spacecraft.

While the Apollo-Soyuz mission is best remembered for its political significance, it also resulted in some major technological achievements as neither of the spacecraft, which were completely different from each other, had been built for the purpose of docking.

The American crew was commanded by Thomas Stafford and included Vance Brand and the last of the original seven Mercury astronauts to make it into orbit, Donald K. “Deke” Slayton who had long been grounded due to a heart problem. The two-man Soviet crew included Valeri Kubasov and the first space walker, Alexei Leonov.

Both the Soyuz and Apollo crews were equipped with OMEGA Speedmaster X-33 wristwatches.

The ASTP Command Module splashed down on July 24th, 1975 after 217 hours, 30 minutes in space.

The Apollo era had landed. It would be six years before another American astronaut would fly in space aboard the reusable Space Shuttle. All of the Shuttle astronauts were equipped, of course, with OMEGA Speedmasters.

2010 OMEGA Seamaster PloProf white dial (new variation)

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 15:26:35 +0000

The rebirth of a diving legend continues in 2010…

In 2009 OMEGA introduced an updated version of the classic and instantly recognizable wristwatch. Equipped with a Co-Axial calibre 8500, the new Ploprof 1200M is water resistant to an impressive 1200 metres (4000 feet) and it artfully combines its ancestor’s legendary features with OMEGA’s state-of-the-industry Co-Axial technology. This year Omega extends the successful reintroduction with a new white dial mode of the PloProf. Gotta say I think this watch might look even better with white dial (vs. black), except the orange rubber strap is a must. The white strap is, well, very feminine looking. More pics posted! I’ll be back with more pics later…stay tuned in!

Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Ceramic

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:36:05 +0000

“Green military ceramic” all the way…one cool watch!

For the fighter pilot or the watch enthusiast. Bell & Ross maintains their “Instrument” theme and stick with what they do best. These watches have true identity and I love it. 42mm case, eta 2892 movement, rubber strap also available.

Editor’s Update: **SEE THIS WATCH UP-CLOSE AND IN VIDEO IN OUR LATEST POST, HERE**

Baselworld 2010: New Rolex Explorer

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:19:03 +0000

New Rolex Explorer in 2010…

Well, I’ll take some credit (but just a little bit) for putting 2 +2 together and guessing it might equal 4. Though with Rolex, you never really know! Anyway, it looks like there will be a new Rolex explorer in 2010. First look credit goes to Salon Des Montres, via Hodinkee.

Baselworld 2010: Green dial green bezel Rolex Submariner

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:02:48 +0000

Attn: This is not a St. Patrick’s Day joke…

LOL. Hat tip Salon de Montres via Hodinkee. More info to come…

Baselworld 2010: Tag Heuer Carrera 1887 Chronograph

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:45:37 +0000

The first recipient of TAG Heuer’s New Caliber 1887

Well, barring the leaked photos a few weeks ago, here it is – the new TAG Heuer Carrera 1887. This is the first announced watch to contain TAG Heuer’s new Caliber 1887 movement. After the much debated, defended and discussed marketing flub over the announcement of its new 1887 movement, I’m sure TAG is more than eager to move on and shift the attention to the actual watches that will use its new movements. I share their desire to “move on”. The new Carrera 1887 is a pretty straightforward watch – what you see is what you get. This new model has a 41mm case water resistant to 100 meters, a polished and satin-finished bezel with tachometer scale, and will be available in a silver or black dial with alligator strap or steel bracelet. The early buzz/reaction to this watch was less than spectacular and to me it all comes down to price – it will be interesting to see the price premium TAG Heuer will put on its watches with the new Caliber 1887 in them. Hopefully they do not overprice them as I hear Breilting did with its Chronomat B01 watches with in-house caliber (launched 2009).

The new TAG Heuer Carerra 1887

The new TAG Heuer Caliber 1887

You can see all the hot new watches for 2010 on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum. Just click here!

Baselworld 2010: Breitling Bentley Supersports

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:39:29 +0000

Breitling for Bentley continues…

limited edition of 1,000, a COSC-certified chronometer movement with a centre 60-minute counter, a 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock and a central scale for the hundredths of an hour or minutes. Unlike standard tachometers, which can only record measurements over 60 seconds, this exclusive Breitling invention can measure average speeds over any length of time as well as the distance covered and the maximum speed attained (who really uses a tachometer, though?),.

Movement Automatic, Breitling 26B calibre, COSC-certified, 38 jewels, 28,800 vib/h

Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date, ¼ second chronograph, 60-minute and 12-hour totalisers

Fixed and variable tachometers

Case Steel, 48.7 mm

Ratcheted rotating bezel with circular slide rule

Double-sided anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal

Titanium back

Water resistant to 100 m

Limited edition of 1,000

Dial Royal Ebony

60-minute counter at centre, 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, and direct-drive seconds counter at 3 o’clock

Central direct-drive ¼ of a second chronograph hand

Date window at 6 o’clock

Bracelet/Strap Rubber strap or metal Speed bracelet

Frédéric Jouvenot Hélios

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:27:14 +0000

Is Frédéric Jouvenot A Hidden Talent?

I think he is. I hear little about him (perhaps because he only has 2 watches to his name), but he shows a remarkable knack for delivering spectacular horology. Last year, it was the Automatic Chronograph Evolution, an 88-piece limited edition model with a dial-side rotor. This year, it is the “Helios”, a truly out-of-the-box concept. With watches such as these, it is certain that young Frédéric Jouvenot has a remarkable knack for amazing and somewhat unconventional watchmaking. Surely there is more to come from this great and young watchmaker!

I think the Helios is a watch best understood in video:

Case in white or pink gold, or Titanium DLC (pictured below)

Price and production quantity – [TBD].

How does this enigmatic timepiece work?

Each hour is represented by a sunbeam, twelve in total. They are posted on the dial in the sectors of a classic display. As for the minutes, they appear in a central moon equipped with an index making one revolution per hour. At midday all rays blaze like the light of the day. At this precise moment the design represents the sun at its zenith.

Gradually, each sunbeam is replaced by a moonbeam. Twilight is reached, then midnight symbolized by twelve dark segments. The darkness of the face then reveals the disc with an opening in the form of the moon at the centre of the watch: It is the second depiction of midnight. At dawn, the rays of the sun (as watch hands) are reactivated and the ambient light progressively returns as each hour passes.

* New face with patent applied for, which indicates the passage of 24 hours with the day and night.

* Hour display without discs or hands.

* Display of minutes by a disk turning in the center of the watch.

* Three-dimensional face with PVD colour black, rhodium-plated or pink.

* Mechanical movement in exquisite workmanship with hours and minutes. Black gold balance with screws.

* 42 rubies.

* Reserve power spring with 80 hours’ capacity.

* Face with high-quality finish.

* Casing in white or pink gold or black TITANIUM DLC.

* Alligator leather wrist strap with buckle using loop.

* High-quality presentation box.

* Two-year warranty.

No related posts.

Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref 5170

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:11:16 +0000

Oh what a year for Patek…what a year for watches!

Be sure to keep an eye on Perpetuelle.com’s Official BASELWORLD 2010 for many more new watches!

Movement Hand-wound, CH 29-535 PS calibre

Functions Hours, minutes, seconds and chronograph

Case 18K yellow gold, 39 mm

Sapphire crystal back

Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial Silvered opaline

Gold applique hourmarkers

30-minute and small seconds counters at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively

Bracelet/Strap Matt chocolate-brown hand-stitched, square-scaled alligator with folding clasp

Patek Philippe 5950A

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:42:23 +0000

Patek with a bit of “flair” to show off its new steel split-seconds chronograph…

Have you forgotten the Patek ladies chronograph announced late last year yet? Yea, compared to these new chronographs, it looks really uninspiring right about now. Here is the new Patek Philippe Steel Split-Seconds Chronograph (Ref 5950A), debuting now in Baselworld:

Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A

Split-seconds monopusher chronograph in a steel case

The orchestration of micromechanical art is gracefully complemented on the face of the watch with delicate foliage engravings that adorn the four corners of the dial.

Be sure to keep an eye on Perpetuelle.com’s Official BASELWORLD 2010 for many more new watches!

Patek Philippe 5951P

Kyle — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:42:40 +0000

Patek Philippe to Unveil 3 New Chronograph Calibers…

Baselworld 2010 is officially on, and Patek Philippe, arguably the most prestigious watch brand on the planet, is off with a bang! This is the new and sporty looking Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Split-Seconds Chronograph aka Patek 5951P.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5951P

Split-seconds monopusher chronograph with a perpetual calendar

In this beautiful watch, Patek Philippe is bringing to life its new CHR 27-525 PS split-seconds chronograph movement. This is an impressive watch caliber (movement), from what I can tell – not only does it drive the rattrapante chronograph, it is of course a perpetual calendar –all an overall movement height of just 7.3 mm. Of course a movement like this deserves to be seen – and so Patek put sapphire-crystal display back on the back of the platinum, cushion-shaped case. Was that really fair to say, now that I must tell you I don’t yet have an official photo of the movement? Oh well, plenty to enjoy on the front side of the watch

I am not sure yet of the other specifications – most particularly the case size – I’ll get back to you on that!

Be sure to keep an eye on Perpetuelle.com’s Official BASELWORLD 2010 for many more new watches!

Baselworld 2010: Maurice Lacroix “Square Wheel”

Kyle — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 20:06:32 +0000

Maurice Lacroix Reinventing the wheel?

This one will grab some attention! Stay tuned for more details….

43.5mm case size, manual wind movement with 48 hour power reserve

Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo

Kyle — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 15:35:17 +0000

Octopus spotted hands…steel case fully engraved with an octopus tattoo design by Danish tattoo artist Henning Jensen…

I’ll refresh with more det’s later today, but for now, but here’s a first look:

Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo

Limited edition 82 pieces, Frederic Piguet Caliber 1150 movement

Baselworld 2010: Perrelet Diamond Flower Ceramic

Kyle — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:19:40 +0000

Ceramic is in in 2010…

This is a sneak peak at the new Perrelet Diamond Flower ceramic watch. More info and a video, below.

I love the design of the original this collection – it is simply beautiful. Not to mention its adaptation of Perrelet’s unique “double rotor” system (see the video below) in which the top-side rotor is in the shape of diamond-lined flower petals. Now, with this year’s addition of a black and white ceramic bracelet/case with a black mother-of-pearl dial, Perrelet is stepping it up a notch in with an even more luxurious and mechanically sophisticated extension of the collection.

More broadly, I am sensing that ceramic watches will be a hot item this year, particularly in the ladies segment. While of course there’s always been the Chanel J12 series setting the standard for the ladies ceramic watch, not to mention its one-off limited edition pieces such as the very beautiful and one-of-a-kind J12 Joaellerie as well as the new and engimatic “concept watch” known as the Chanel J12 Tourbillon Retrograde Mysterieuse Automatic (see the high res pics and video here), other brands are emerging with their own and equally impressive ceramic watches. Perrelet being one good example. Also, I think that the new TAG Heuer F1 ceramic ladies collection will be very well received – the watches look great – you should really take a look if you haven’t seen them yet.

And of course on the men’s side it is more about the ceramic bezel – most recently and notably the new OMEGA Seamaster Liquidmetal watch, sure to be one of the most popular watches seen in Basel this year (available first here on Perpetuelle since Oct’09).

Will we see more new and exciting ceramic watches this year at Baselworld? You can count on it!

Baselworld 2010: Rolex Teaser

Kyle — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:30:31 +0000

UPDATE:

***VIEW THE ENTIRE 2010 ROLEX COLLECTION HERE*** WITH OFFICIAL PICTURES DIRECT FROM ROLEX***

Below is the image now showing on the Rolex.com homepage. I wonder – is it a subtle hint of a new Rolex model (a refresh of the Explorer I or Explorer II, perhaps?) – or even a new collection (highly doubtful) – that will be revealed later this week at Baselworld? Or is it simply the first look at a forthcoming ad campaign (i.e. What’s Your Everest?). I have not the slightest idea…do you? We are just days away from finding out! All guesses welcome! Perpetuelle.com’s Official BASELWORLD 2010 will have all the details!

Baselworld 2010: Breitling Superocean

Kyle — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 16:50:40 +0000

Just a glimpse… Official Pics are In!

a born diver, water-resistant to 1,500 metres, helium valve, and perfect size – 42mm

full Specs below the jump.

Movement Automatic, Breitling 17 calibre, COSC-certified, 25 jewels, 28,800 vib/h

Functions Hours, minutes, seconds and date

Case Steel, 42 mm

Ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel

Helium valve at 10 o’clock

Screw-down crown

Double-sided anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal

Water-resistant to 1,500 m

Dial Abyss Black, Abyss Silver, Abyss Blue, Abyss Red or Abyss Yellow

Oversized Superluminova hands and hourmarkers

Tip of seconds hand matches bevelled flange

Bracelet/Strap Diver Pro and Ocean Racer in rubber, Professional in steel

via R Ruegger

Linde Werdelin’s Photorealistic Moonphase

Kyle — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 20:39:33 +0000

The coolest moonphase….ever?

When I shared with you the first look at watch and instrument maker Linde Werdelin’s new Oktopus Moonphase, my sixth sense had already told me that the defining aspect of this watch would be its “photorealistic moonphase” created in collaboration with master watchmaker Svend Andersen. While others did a great job of pointing out the watch’s upgraded Frederic Piguet Caliber 1150 movement and the ostensible oddity of having a moonphase on a dive watch (two thumbs up, Hodinkee), I could not stop wondering what the “photorealistic Moonphase” might actually look like in the dark. Well, I wonder no more!

Behold, the most unique and masterfully executed moonphase I think we may see for quite some time. Really, this one is in such a class of its own I don’t even know what else to say! Here: if you can show me one that tops this, I’ll send you $20 in the mail

The Photorealistic Moonphase Ring

Now as you may recall, the other cool thing about this moonphase function is that it can be adjusted manually with the use of the crown. Morten Linde keenly points out that this “allows for a fast and easy way of setting the moon disc to the current moon, even if the watch has not been worn for some time and has stopped. No need to send it back to our service centre for regulation…” Brilliant, gentlemen, brilliant!

Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moonphase (titanium case, pink gold bezel)

Now, my sources tell me that the watch you see here will become available for pre-order starting next week, at Baselworld. The price is substantial – $21,700 here in the U.S. – but a watch like this is rightfully meant to be in the hands of just a lucky few and only 29 pieces will be made. What I am saying is that a watch like this is worth paying top dollar, and for those of you who have the cash, I think this would be a fantastic piece to add to your collection. In fact if you are interested, ping me kyle [at ] perpetuelle.com and I’ll put you in touch with LW’s Man here in the U.S.

Switching topics somewhat, I remind you all that all the action will be taking place next week of Perpetuelle.com’s Official BASELWORLD 2010 forum. We’ve already got 85 watches posted! Check it all out here.

Christophe Claret DualTow NightEagle

Kyle — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:33:34 +0000

When Stealth Does Not Go Unnoticed…

At a price likely to be north of $500,000, the new DualTow NightEagle from Christophe Claret is not for the faint of heart – nor the “light of pocket”. The subtly translucent face of the watch gives the wearer (and curious onlookers) a most exceptional and fascinating look into the exceptional mechanism that is the heart and soul of the watch. Presented in an all-black version and in black with white accents, its stealth-style shape, angular lugs and tinted sapphire bridges the watch reminds me of the B2 Stealth Bomber. More pics/video/details about this phenomenal watch after the jump….

Similar to previous DualTow models, the DualTow NightEagle is a single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon. The movement is manual winding, with an astonishing 582 parts, 73 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. The dimensions of the watch are 42.75mm wide x 48.2mm tall (lugs excluded). The most fundamental aspect of this watch is the way it keeps time – via a “belt drive” system. As you can see in the pictures, there are two rubber belts with embossed numbers that run vertically on either side of the case – one tells the hours, the other tells the minutes.

A slight resemblance, perhaps?

The B2 Stealth Bomber

Or perhaps this one?

The F-117 Nighthawk

The DualTow is a gem of horological complexity – launched in 2009 to mark the company’s 20^th anniversary, it captivated watch owners, collectors and enthusiasts around the world with its “drive belts” and powerful combination of aesthetics and technical inventiveness that Mr. Chrisophe Claret has become known for. Claret’s plan has and remains to to produce in just 68 total DualTow watches over the next few years. If you would like to get a better understanding of this watch, check out this video:

Did You Know?

For over 20 years, the Manufacture Chrisophe Claret has consistently devised some of the world’s most complicated new calibres. Few brands admit to outsourcing in creating their most complex models, which explains why, beyond a select circle of connoisseurs, the name of Christophe Claret is little known to the public at large. Nonetheless, from the minute repeater – the first complication developed by this watchmaker – to the orbital tourbillon and the roller-display perpetual calendar, the Manufacture is easily one of the most innovative companies in the watch industry.

No related posts.

Baselworld 2010: Urwerk Tarantula “Mexican Fireleg”

Kyle — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 19:26:40 +0000

Aggressive and venemous….the capstone for the 7th and final year of production for the Urwerk 103 collection…

Martin Frei says, “Our 103 collection is entering its seventh year. It has reached its maturity and fullness. It was Urwerk’s first masterpiece, one of audacity and challenge. In my opinion, it is the one that symbolises to this day the perfect balance between elegance and technicity. A fragile balance, but one which we have succeeded in preserving. This emblematic model deserves an end commensurate with its life.”

The Urwerk 103 Tarantula Mexican Fireleg

Close-Up

Orange luminescent markets, Limited edition of 60 timepieces

What is a “Mexican Fireleg”, you ask?

Baselworld 2010: Perrelet Titanium collection

Kyle — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 15:39:30 +0000

Perrelet “Titanium” Collection is refreshed with simple time + date model…

Here’s a new and sporty looking titanium watch from Swiss watchmaker Perrelet. If you don’t know Perrelet as the “Inventor of the Automatic Watch” (which it is, circa 1777), you probably know it for its “Turbine” watch which received a lot of exciting and postive media coverage last year (check the Turbine watch video here). However, I think the Turbine watch was somewhat gimmicky (I have seen it “in the metal”) and not truly representative of the brand and its sophisticated watches, and that’s why I am excited to share this new Titanium collection watch with you today. More after the jump.

Perrelet first introduced its Titanium Collection of watches in 2007, and this year the collection is getting a fresh upgrade. This new model has a very sporty look to it that I really like. Also, with hours/mins/seconds + date function, it is relatively simple compred to current and previous Titanium collection models. The current Titanium collection lineup has four different models, each with a different set of complications (functions) – double rotor, chronograph with big date, regulator with retrograde hour, and a moonphase. Assuming that Perrelet has not changed the basic watch specs, this watch will have a 43.5mm case size. Price? Probably slightly north of $4,000.

Baselworld 2010: Tissot Seastar 1000

Kyle — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 22:03:52 +0000

Seastar collection returns after 2-3 year absence…

It is now *official* that Tissot (a Swatch Group brand) is bringing back its Seastar line in 2010, starting with the Seastar 1000 you see below. As best I can tell it was sometime in mid-2007 that the Seastar line was discontinued by Tissot, thus its return after just 3 years is certainly interesting! This is what I would consider to be an “entry level” dive watch in the higher-end/luxury segment (but calling Tissot a luxury brand is perhaps too generous), and it is worth a look if you are a Tissot fan. As noted on the dial, the new Seastar 1000 is water resistant to a respectable 1000 feet (300 meters) and is powered by an automatic movement. Curiously, this watch seems to be lacking a couple key features common on functional dive watches including a luminous second hand and bezel (as was astutely pointed out by dive-watch blogger Roger Ruegger) – whether or not this will detract from its perceived value is to be seen. I’m not sure what the price might be, but I will venture a guess that a price of $750 might be in the ballpark.

Given this is my first post about Tissot (if you don’t count this Danica Patrick shout out), I’d be curious to hear your feedback. Are you interested in this brand and would you like me to cover it more? Or do you prefer my primary focus on the higher-end/elite independent watchmakers/watch brands?

Danica Patrick for Tissot

Baselworld 2010: 4N (New Brand) 4N-MVT01 (Model)

Kyle — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 02:58:28 +0000

New Brand, New Model – it tells the time, plain and simple…

The 4N-MVT01, by François Quentin

Limited edition of 16 in 18-carat white gold and 16 in platinum

Price: unknown

This is the first watch from a new brand known simply as “4N”. 4N – which stands for “4 numbers” and is a reference to the four digits on a digital counter which represents the tens of hours, hours, tens of minutes and minutes – was founded in 2009 by designer François Quentin. François Quentin is perhaps best-known as a co-founder of the avant-garde watch brand HAUTLENCE in 2004 (along with Renaud de Retz and Guillame Tetu), and as co-designer of the Tambour, the flagship model released by Louis Vuitton several years ago.

The idea behind 4N was/is to create a simple digital display and propose a mechanical alternative to analogue timepieces with moving hands, and I like what François Quentin came up with in this regard. The model you see above is formally known as 4N-MVT01/D01/4². While this odd naming structure perhaps suits the tastes of its designer just fine, I think it is a rather unremarkable model name that will not leave a strong nor lasting impression in anyone’s mind. Which is too bad, really, because the watch is actually quite interesting.

Quentin has purportedly tried to steer clear of “complex effects and has refrained from adding aesthetic and technical touches which might take away from the visibility of the hour display”. However I must voice some disagreement with this notion because while the time is clearly displayed at the center of the dial, the dial in its entirety reflects and openworked effect and is actually somewhat visually distracting. That is, distracting as compared to an alternative such as simply showing the time and hiding the rest behind the dial. But lest I be accused of quibbling (which I probably am), I do admit that I like the watch as it is. The time appears and is displayed in one way only, and while the whole assembly does reveal a pattern of scattered figures, the time is clearly displayed on a horizontal plane in the centre of the dial, in strong, bold lettering.

The movement is manual winding, with time display based on a clever configuration of discs rotating in discontinuous mode. Three discs sub-assemblies, made of aluminium or titanium alloys and held in carbon cage structures, are activated to reveal the time on a display which changes as each minute passes (4 discs for the hour, 5 for the minutes and 1 for the tens of minutes). The mechanism uses a constant-force jump system which guarantees minimum energy consumption, regardless of the winding tension. Note also the two crowns on the left side of the case which enable hours to be set independently of the minutees. Lastly, I also find interesting the strap, which is mounted on the case by an automatic fastening system and its length can be adjusted as necessary. Unfortunately I do not know the dimensions of the case, hopefully it is not too big.

In summary, I must stay that I find 4N’s first watch to be quite refreshing! It reflects out-of-the-ordinary thinking for doing something very ordinary – telling the time. I’ll give François Quentin two thumbs up!

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