When Stealth Does Not Go Unnoticed…

At a price likely to be north of $500,000, the new DualTow NightEagle from Christophe Claret is not for the faint of heart – nor the “light of pocket”.   The subtly translucent face of the watch gives the wearer (and curious onlookers) a most exceptional and fascinating look into the exceptional mechanism that is the heart and soul of the watch.  Presented in an all-black version and in black with white accents, its stealth-style shape, angular lugs and tinted sapphire bridges the watch reminds me of the B2 Stealth Bomber.  More pics/video/details about this phenomenal watch after the jump….

Similar to previous DualTow models, the DualTow NightEagle is a single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon.  The movement is manual winding, with an astonishing 582 parts, 73 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve.  The dimensions of the watch are 42.75mm wide x 48.2mm tall (lugs excluded).  The most fundamental aspect of this watch is the way it keeps time – via a “belt drive” system.  As you can see in the pictures, there are two rubber belts with embossed numbers that run vertically on either side of the case – one tells the hours, the other tells the minutes.    

A slight resemblance, perhaps? 

The B2 Stealth Bomber

The DualTow is a gem of horological complexity – launched in 2009 to mark the company’s 20^th anniversary, it captivated watch owners, collectors and enthusiasts around the world with its “drive belts” and powerful combination of aesthetics and technical inventiveness that Mr. Chrisophe Claret has become known for.  Claret’s plan has and remains to to produce in just 68 total DualTow watches over the next few years.  If you would like to get a better understanding of this watch, check out this video:

Did You Know?

For over 20 years, the Manufacture Chrisophe Claret has consistently devised some of the world’s most complicated new calibres.  Few brands admit to outsourcing in creating their most complex models, which explains why, beyond a select circle of connoisseurs, the name of Christophe Claret is little known to the public at large. Nonetheless, from the minute repeater – the first complication developed by this watchmaker – to the orbital tourbillon and the roller-display perpetual calendar, the Manufacture is easily one of the most innovative companies in the watch industry.

Aggressive and venemous….the capstone for the 7th and final year of production for the Urwerk 103 collection…

Martin Frei says, “Our 103 collection is entering its seventh year. It has reached its maturity and fullness. It was Urwerk’s first masterpiece, one of audacity and challenge.  In my opinion, it is the one that symbolises to this day the perfect balance between elegance and technicity. A fragile balance, but one which we have succeeded in preserving. This emblematic model deserves an end commensurate with its life.”

The Urwerk 103 Tarantula Mexican Fireleg

Close-Up

Orange luminescent markets, Limited edition of 60 timepieces

What is a “Mexican Fireleg”, you ask?

Perrelet “Titanium” Collection is refreshed with simple time +  date model…

Here’s a new and sporty looking titanium watch from Swiss watchmaker Perrelet.  If you don’t know Perrelet as the “Inventor of the Automatic Watch” (which it is, circa 1777), you probably know it for its “Turbine” watch which received a lot of exciting and postive media coverage last year (check the Turbine watch video here).  However, I think the Turbine watch was somewhat gimmicky (I have seen it “in the metal”) and not truly representative of the brand and its sophisticated watches, and that’s why I am excited to share this new Titanium collection watch with you today.  More after the jump.

Perrelet first introduced its Titanium Collection of watches in 2007, and this year the collection is getting a fresh upgrade.  This new model has a very sporty look to it that I really like.  Also, with hours/mins/seconds + date function, it is relatively simple compred to current and previous Titanium collection models.  The current Titanium collection lineup has four different models, each with a different set of complications (functions) – double rotor, chronograph with big date, regulator with retrograde hour, and a moonphase.  Assuming that Perrelet has not changed the basic watch specs, this watch will have a 43.5mm case size.  Price?  Probably slightly north of $4,000.

Seastar collection returns after 2-3 year absence…

It is now *official* that Tissot (a Swatch Group brand) is bringing back its Seastar line in 2010, starting with the Seastar 1000 you see below.  As best I can tell it was sometime in mid-2007 that the Seastar line was discontinued by Tissot, thus its return after just 3 years is certainly interesting!  This is what I would consider to be an “entry level” dive watch in the higher-end/luxury segment (but calling Tissot a luxury brand is perhaps too generous), and it is worth a look if you are a Tissot fan.  As noted on the dial, the new Seastar 1000 is water resistant to a respectable 1000 feet (300 meters) and is powered by an automatic movement.  Curiously, this watch seems to be lacking a couple key features common on functional dive watches including a luminous second hand and bezel (as was astutely pointed out by dive-watch blogger Roger Ruegger) – whether or not this will detract from its perceived value is to be seen.  I’m not sure what the price might be, but I will venture a guess that a price of $750 might be in the ballpark.

Given this is my first post about Tissot (if you don’t count this Danica Patrick shout out), I’d be curious to hear your feedback.  Are you interested in this brand and would you like me to cover it more?  Or do you prefer my primary focus on the higher-end/elite  independent watchmakers/watch brands?

New Brand, New Model – it tells the time, plain and simple…

The 4N-MVT01, by François Quentin

Limited edition of 16 in 18-carat white gold and 16 in platinum

Price: unknown

This is the first watch from a new brand known simply as “4N”.  4N – which stands for “4 numbers” and is a reference to the four digits on a digital counter which represents the tens of hours, hours, tens of minutes and minutes – was founded in 2009 by designer François Quentin.  François Quentin is perhaps best-known as a  co-founder of the avant-garde watch brand HAUTLENCE in 2004 (along with Renaud de Retz and Guillame Tetu), and as co-designer of the Tambour, the flagship model released by Louis Vuitton several years ago.

The idea behind 4N was/is to create a simple digital display and propose a mechanical alternative to analogue timepieces with moving hands, and I like what François Quentin came up with in this regard.    The model you see above is formally known as 4N-MVT01/D01/4². While this odd naming structure perhaps suits the tastes of its designer just fine, I think it is a rather unremarkable model name that will not leave a strong nor lasting impression in anyone’s mind.  Which is too bad, really, because the watch is actually quite interesting.

Quentin has purportedly tried to steer clear of “complex effects and has refrained from adding aesthetic and technical touches which might take away from the visibility of the hour display”.  However I must voice some disagreement with this notion because while the time is clearly displayed at the center of the dial, the dial in its entirety reflects and openworked effect and is actually somewhat visually distracting.  That is, distracting as compared to an alternative such as simply showing the time and hiding the rest behind the dial.  But lest I be accused of quibbling (which I probably am), I do admit that I like the watch as it is.  The time appears and is displayed in one way only, and while the whole assembly does reveal a pattern of scattered figures, the time is clearly displayed on a horizontal plane in the centre of the dial, in strong, bold lettering.

The movement is manual winding, with time display based on a clever configuration of discs rotating in discontinuous mode. Three discs sub-assemblies, made of aluminium or titanium alloys and held in carbon cage structures, are activated to reveal the time on a display which changes as each minute passes (4 discs for the hour, 5 for the minutes and 1 for the tens of minutes).  The mechanism uses a constant-force jump system which guarantees minimum energy consumption, regardless of the winding tension.  Note also the two crowns on the left side of the case which enable hours to be set independently of the minutees.  Lastly, I also find interesting the strap, which is mounted on the case by an automatic fastening system and its length can be adjusted as necessary. Unfortunately I do not know the dimensions of the case, hopefully it is not too big.

In summary,  I must stay that I find 4N’s first watch to be quite refreshing!  It reflects out-of-the-ordinary thinking for doing something very ordinary – telling the time.  I’ll give François Quentin two thumbs up!

Machined titanium case shaped like an engine block…

Limited Edition of 150 pieces.  Titanium case (44mm x 35mm), Movement is Chopard’s manual wind L.U.C. 1TRM tourbillon (COSC-certified, 60 hour power reserve), power reserve indicator on dial, sapphire crystal front and back, Hand-sewn black alligator strap with matching titanium buckle.  Price?  Easily north of $50,000.

Chopard L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon

Up Close (Power reserve at top, Tourbillon on bottom)

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!

2010 TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster to include new TAG Heuer concept watch…

This is the new TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster on dispaly at the Geneva Motor Show.  The design was reportedly inspired by the new TAG Heuer concept watch which is to be revealed at Baselworld 2010 on March 18.  The car will also feature a TAG Heuer Meridiist mobile phone as well as a one-fifth second Heuer Limited Edition Stopwatch.  As for the car, well the Tesla Roadster is one sweet ride – what I instantly noticed about the TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster is the use of a green rearview mirror + green accents on the passenger side, and red rearview mirror + red accents on the driver side.  Most curious!

Cabin / Interior:

“TAG Heuer has a rich history and expertise with the world’s most prestigious racing teams — but this is the first ever partnership we’ve forged with an electric sports car company,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, President and CEO of TAG Heuer. “We believe that high-performance drivers are increasingly searching for products that are efficient, socially responsible and stylish. TAG Heuer and Tesla are two of the few companies arleady achieving these ideals today.”

“Engineers at both TAG Heuer and Tesla understand intuitively that technology — whether worn on your wrist or driven on the road — can help us live better while we tread more lightly on this planet,” said Tesla CEO Elon Musk.

TAG Heuer and Tesla plan to hold what will undoubtedly be a huge and celebrity filled launch part on March 18 during Baselworld 2010.

Special cradle/rest on the console for the TAG Heuer Meridiist phone

The special edition 1/5 second Heuer Stopwatch

An odd mix of modern and past day technology if there ever was one!

Even the speedometer is branded TAG Heuer!

Hat tip: Calibre11.

About Tesla Motors

Tesla is the world’s only automaker selling highway-capable electric vehicles. Tesla sells cars online and operates showrooms and galleries in London, Munich, Monaco, California’s Silicon Valley and Los Angeles, Colorado, New York, Seattle, Chicago and South Florida. Tesla has delivered more than 1,000 cars to customers in at least 21 countries worldwide.

The Tesla Roadster accelerates faster than nearly any car in its price class and is twice as energy efficient as leading hybrids. It is the only highway-capable electric vehicle for sale in Europe or North America. The Roadster does not need regular oil changes or exhaust system work. Roadsters have no spark plugs, pistons, hoses, belts or clutches to replace. Tesla recommends a standard service and diagnostic inspection once a year – and Tesla can perform this service at customers’ homes or offices.

TAG Heuer Introduces Lady’s Ceramic Bezel, Bracelet….Men’s watches next?

Below is a first look at some pics of the new TAG Heuer F1 Lady series watches with ceramic bezel and bracelet components that will be officially unveiled at Baselworld 2010.  This is TAG Heuer’s first foray into the use of ceramic in its bezels and bracelets and I expect this to generate a lot of enthusiasm from TAG Heuer fans and watch fans in general.  More importantly, it is all but certain that TAG Heuer will also soon introduce ceramic into its men’s watches as well.  TAG Heuer follows other popular brands such as Rado, Chanel, Rolex, and most recently Omega (check out the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal here) to integrate ceramic bezel and bracelet components.

This is to me a positive move by TAG Heuer in what is shaping up to be a crazy year of “highs” and “lows” for the brand (a beautiful Silverstone reissue, the Caliber 1887 movement snafu, a leaked then retracted Carrerra 1887 model, dealing with a tainted Ambassador named Tiger Woods here, here and here….and oh I can’t miss mentioning the absurd $360 “luxury” 8Gb flash memory thumb drive).

As for the watch, the only downside for me – and this is purely a matter of preference if this sort of thing matters to you – is that the F1 lady ceramic the watches will have quartz movements in them.  A far cry from, for example, the Audemars Piguet-base mechanical automatic movements as used in the Chanel J12 Series.  On the plus side, the price will actually be affordable.  And I do think that the watches look nice – very clean and sharp looking.  So all in all, I’ll give TAG Heuer a “thumbs up” on this one.

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!

Special forces watch -49mm titanium case, antimagnetic, “gun metal grey” PVD, 1,000m water resistant…

Tribute to the Italian 9th Reggimento d’Assalto Paracadutisti (9th Parachutist Assault Regiment)

This is the new “Col Moschin” Limited Edition watch from Oris.   In a testament to its worthiness, Oris had it field tested by the Col Moschin – perhaps the most elite unit of the Italian Army.  “Field tested” is perhaps an understatement given that the Col Moschin special forces wore the watch on jumps from 9,000 meters and on dives down to 40 meters, among other rugged uses.  Most striking about this watch is its size – the 49mm case is massive just like it looks.  But because the case is titanium, and it comes on a rubber strap, it is probably much lighter than you might think.  Also adding to its manly appeal is its thick, brush-finish bezel that looks very tough.  Lest you forget what country’s elite special forces this watch is inspired by, the power reserve is done in the Italian colors of red, white and green.  You may recall that Oris introduced a similar, actually slightly larger (51mm case), watch last year – the Oris ProDiver Chronograph (link here, scroll down about halfway), however I like this watch much better – it seems like a perfect Special Forces watch.  But I think it could do without all the etched text on the side of the case (close up below).

Oris Col Moschin

Limited edition of 2,000

The 9th Parachutist Assault Regiment Seal

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!

Watch Haute Couture – Tailor Made “Roller Guardian Time”…

The watch you see here is the “RGT Punk Rock” by Ladoire Genève.  It was first shown at the 2010 Geneva Time Exhibition and will be on display at Baselworld 2010.  Many of you will not “get” this watch.  And I don’t mean “get” as in purchase (although you won’t do this either), but as in understand or appreciate the watch.  This because it is unconventional in almost every way – from the case shape (“lazy lucky horseshoe” as I like to call it) to the crown location (8 o’clock) to the way it keeps time (“RGT” – more on this below) to the funky looking strap and more – this watch defies tradition.  Hey, I’m with you – I can’t say that I fully understand or appreciate the watch either, but maybe one day when I get my hands on one I will see the light.  The watch is part of an ultra-exclusive offering – only 3 will be made.  And 2 are already spoken for.  And each one is about $150,000.    So even if you do “get it”, you still probably can’t get it.  Get it?  Check it:

Hand-skeletonized dial, titanium case

Ladoire Genève is a new-to-the-scene (2007) elite watch brand that seems to take pride in the fact that it does not operate within the traditional paradigm of watchmaking.    For example some of the features of the watch I cited above are all very unconventional.  Also, Ladoire focuses on ultra-exclusive production and custom-made pieces utilizing its “RGT” time system.  RGT stands for “Roller Guardian Time” – the way it works is that the indication of hours, minutes, seconds are all made by revolving discs mounted on ceramic ball bearings.  I think this is one of those things you have to see in person to fully appreciate.

That the brand’s founder and namesake Lionel Ladoire does not adhere to the “traditional” in any aspect of his watches is very clear even on the Company’s website.   Ladoire’s vision is to “create a new dynamic in the watch industry:  the Haute Couture Watch Dynamic.”  Yea, that’s pretty cool if you ask me, and I have no problem referring his watches as “haute couture” – they seem to fit that bill quite nicely.  So if its “watchmaking haute couture” that suits your fancy and you’ve got the cash to back it up, you may want to put a Ladoire on your short list.

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!