A nice post to start off the week – a late-breaking interview in Perpetuelle.com’s “Post-Baselworld Interview Series” – and this one with none other than Mr. Manuel Emch himself.  For those of you not familiar with the name, Manuel Emch is President of the highly prestigious, ultra-luxurious watchmaker Montres Jaquet Droz SA.  I am pleased to share this interview with you below in which Mr. Emch shares his insights into Baselworld 2009, online media, and much more.

Montres Jaquet Droz at Baselworld 2009

Mr. Manuel Emch

Perpetuelle: How was BASELWORLD 2009 different for Jaquet Droz compared to prior years?

Mr. Emch:  It was different due to the change of schedule between the SIHH (from January, 20th to January, 25th 2009) and Baselworld (from March, 25th to April, 2nd 2009), but also due to the challenging economical environment. However, in terms of presence and orders, Baselworld 2009 was better than expected and at comparable level with 2008. We presented over 50 novelties and among them an entirely new horological instrument: the automaton La Machine à Ecrire le Temps, the first automaton of modern times.

La Machine à Ecrire le Temps

In the current economic situation, customers tend to be more selective and are searching for sustainable values. Jaquet Droz, as an exclusive brand combining classical values and innovative technologies, represents a safe hedge in this context.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the philosophy behind the new 2009 releases from Jaquet Droz.

Mr. Emch:  My direct environment is a great source of inspiration as it fuels me with a constant flow of various perceptions – sounds, images, colours,… – leading to fresh ideas and innovative projects.

For the new Jaquet Droz collection, launched at Baselworld 2009, each theme was inspired by music. We worked around 4 communication axes :

1. Women’s collection
2. Access to the Jaquet Droz universe
3. Men’s collection
4. Technical exception and excellency with La Machine à Ecrire le Temps

During the creation process, I always try to think “outside the box” and to focus on emotion rather than only on technical aspects. I want to challenge every precept, and I encourage my team to do the same, as I believe it is a fundamental element of creativity.

Perpetuelle: Would you please kindly highlight a couple of your favorite new models for us?

Mr. Emch:  On the occasion of Baselworld 2009, we unveiled numerous novelties but I have a preference for Les Douze Villes as this model is destined for those whose lives are characterised by the crossing of different time zones. Twelve cities, like so many possibilities for different modes of existence, lifestyles and desires… Twelve destinations, each with their own history, secrets, memories and encounters… For this timepiece, Jaquet Droz has chosen a black Grand Feu enamelled dial with its unique grain to harbour 12 destinations around the world.

Jaquet Droz Les Douze Villes

I also have a fondness for a more trendy watch: Réserve de Marche Céramique Technicolor. Five colours for a rainbow of possibilities…, An encounter between different genres this model, contemporary in spirit, possesses all of the iconic beauty of the Grande Seconde and is made of scratch-proof, resistant ceramic, whose colour and radiance will never fade.

Jaquet Droz Réserve de Marche Céramique Technicolor

Perpetuelle: What are the core strengths (and/or defining elements) of Jaquet Droz?

Mr. Emch:  Jaquet Droz is a blend of history, craftsmanship, technical know-how and design, wrapped up in exclusivity and intimacy and its core value includes all these aspects as each one contributes to translate a rich heritage into successful contemporary timepieces. “Grand feu” enamelling is one of the expert techniques that constitute the signature of a Jaquet Droz watch. Master dial-makers perform this operation entirely by hand, playing with fine powders and subjecting them to fire. They alone know the formula to produce these dials, whose colour and texture are absolutely unique.

Perpetuelle: What are you wearing now?

Mr. Emch:  I wear since 2001 the first Grande Seconde Email, which is for me the most valuable watch as it is the first model of the new design philosophy I created based on an original Jaquet Droz pocket watch of the 18th Century. This timepiece is at the very core of the brand’s identity.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Email

Perpetuelle: Are there any areas that Jaquet Droz will be focusing on for 2010 and/or beyond (for example, a focus on certain types of watches / complications / movements)?

Mr. Emch:  During Baselworld 2010, Jaquet Droz will –as usual- unveil numerous novelties. But our main novelty will be our new base movement which we should present by the end of next year. We also started building our new Manufacture in la Chaux-de-Fonds, which will be inaugurated Fall 2010.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the distribution strategy and geographical availability of Jaquet Droz timepieces.

Mr. Emch:  Jaquet Droz has 6 own flagship stores: Genève, Courchevel, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, Macao, and since December 2008 Moscow. We will open soon a new own Boutique in Hanoi (Vietnam). Moreover, Jaquet Droz is represented in a selective distribution network of 200 of the best watch retailers in 50 markets.

Perpetuelle: Can you tell us which, if any, geographies you believe will play in important role in the future growth of Jaquet Droz?

Mr. Emch:  Jaquet Droz plans to extend its retail strategy to Asia (opening of a new flagship store in Hanoi) on one side and on the other to further develop its activity in the region of Russia and the USA as there is still room for growth.

Perpetuelle: What role do you see for online media (such as Perpetuelle.com) and Jaquet Droz? How do you see this role changing/evolving in the future?

Mr. Emch:  Online media represents a great opportunity for Jaquet Droz to develop its presence worldwide. More and more, it will raise its importance and influence. The interactive forums will help us being closer to our clients or potential customers.

Perpetuelle: Thank you Mr. Emch for sharing your time and insights with Perpetuelle.com’s audience of luxury watch owners, collectors & enthusiasts.  We wish you and everyone at Montres Jaquet Droz  all the best in 2009 and beyond.

As part of our “Post-Baselworld Interview Series”, Perpetuelle.com recently conducted an interview with OMEGA President Stephen Urquhart.  We are pleased to share this interview with you below in which we learn a bit more of Mr. Urquhart’s views on Baselworld 2009, OMEGA’s commemoration of the 40^th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission, and more.

Omega’s exhibit hall at Baselworld 2009

Perpetuelle: How was BASELWORLD 2009 different for OMEGA compared to prior years?

Mr. Urquhart: Each edition of BASELWORLD has its own distinct personality and character. For OMEGA, 2009 will be best remembered for our commemoration of the 40th anniversary of the Apollo 11 mission. When astronauts landed on the Moon in July of 1969 they were wearing OMEGA Speedmasters; Buzz Aldrin had his strapped to the outside of his spacesuit when he stepped onto the lunar surface and the Moonwatch was born.

In Basel, we organised a press conference which featured four of the twelve men who walked on the Moon, along with some other astronauts and some key NASA personnel, including Gerry Griffin, the flight director of Apollo 11 and Jim Ragan, the NASA engineer who was responsible for choosing the chronograph to be approved for all of NASA’s manned spaceflights.

In Basel this year we also celebrated the tenth anniversary of the launch of the OMEGA Co-Axial Escapement. While it may not be quite as “sexy” as our NASA connection, the implications of our Co-Axial movements on the way mechanical watches will be produced in the future are significant.

Buzz Aldrin holding the 40th Anniversary Speedmaster, with OMEGA President Stephen Urquhart

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the philosophy behind the new 2009 releases from OMEGA.

Mr. Urquhart: We have always created watches which combined technical innovation with design excellence and that continues to be the case in 2009.

This year we have introduced a re-design of our Constellation line. While we have maintained the design features which have placed the Constellations among the most recognisable and popular watches in the world, the look has been updated and refined. The mechanical models are equipped with Co-Axial movements, so the aesthetic appeal of the watches is supported by state-of-the-industry watchmaking technology.

Another release for 2009 which also characterizes our philosophy is the Seamaster 1200M Ploprof. It’s a new version of the popular Ploprof divers’ watch we made in the 1970s but improved technology means that it is now water resistant to 1200 metres (4000 feet). It’s equipped with our Co-Axial calibre 8500 which was developed entirely in-house. It has a distinctive look, astounding robustness, and an innovative movement. It also recalls one of the great OMEGA wristwatches from an earlier time. Thus, it honours our heritage while helping to define the benchmark in the manufacture of mechanical watches.

The OMEGA Seamaster 1200M Ploprof

Perpetuelle: Would you please kindly highlight a couple of your favourite new models for us?

Mr. Urquhart: I would refer to the Seamaster 1200 Ploprof which I mentioned in the answer to your previous question.

We also released the Speedmaster Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition watch this year. With distinctive sterling silver medallions on the small seconds sub-dial and on the case back, it’s a particularly nice Moonwatch.

The OMEGA Speedmaster Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition

Perpetuelle: What are you wearing now?

Mr. Urquhart: At this moment I’m wearing the Speedmaster Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition. It’s particularly appropriate with the anniversary in July approaching.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the distribution strategy and geographical availability of OMEGA timepieces.

Mr. Urquhart: Some years ago we implemented a strategy to streamline our distribution and it has been very successful – we have reduced the number of OMEGA retailers by half with the result that we are working with those who are best able to represent the brand. Furthermore we have reinforced our strategy with regard to corporate flagship boutiques and now have over 50, the latest addition being our store on Fifth Avenue in New York City which opened in April.

OMEGA’s Newest Boutique opened at 711 Fifth Avenue in New York City

As a truly global brand, we make our full product range available to all of our markets around the world.

It’s useful to remember that our distribution strategy is not independent of our product strategy. OMEGA is still defined by its pioneering spirit and innovative watchmaking. Our Co-Axial calibres can be described as an evolution of these defining characteristics and an upgrade of the products.

Concerning our distribution, the use of fewer but better retailers, including our own stores, also represents an upgrade in our retailing strategy.

Product and distribution are keys to the success of the brand and we’ve been able to upgrade them in tandem.

Perpetuelle: Can you tell us which, if any, geographies you believe will play in important role in the future growth of OMEGA?

Mr. Urquhart: It is gratifying to see that our decision to enter the Chinese market twenty years ago with a clearly-defined strategy was the right one.  In a relatively short time China has become a leading market for luxury products and given its size and ambitions will certainly influence the luxury business in the foreseeable future.  OMEGA has also made important inroads into two other markets of the future, namely India and Russia, which together with our existing strength in the more traditional watch markets gives us a truly global reach.

Perpetuelle: Thank you Mr. Urquhart for sharing your time and insights with Perpetuelle.com’s audience of luxury watch owners, collectors & enthusiasts.  We wish you and everyone at OMEGA all the best in 2009 and beyond.

As part of our “Post-Baselworld Interview Series”, Perpetuelle.com recently conducted an interview with Mr. Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot.  We are pleased to share this interview with you below in which Mr. Biver shares his insights into Baselworld 2009, Hublot’s new manufacture movement coming in 2010, the future that is online media, and much more.

Hublot at Baselworld 2009

Hublot CEO Jean-Claude Biver

Perpetuelle: How was BASELWORLD 2009 different for Hublot compared to prior years?

Mr. Biver: Compared to the other years, we sold this year 8 watches when the retailer needed to order 10. Last year when needed 10 he ordered between 15 and 20. So this year we have real orders in our books with no inflation.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the philosophy behind the new 2009 releases from Hublot.

Mr. Biver: The King Power is an evolution of the Big Bang. A stronger case, less “sophisticated” but more complicated to produce. Inside we have a movement with a double complication: the split second hand and the foudroyante. The case is executed either in full ceramic, or in Zirconium, or in 18 karats Red Gold (we have introduced a new alloy which is a world first indeed).

The second important innovation of this Basel collection is  the evolution of the Big Bang with the introduction of the leather/rubber( both material are fused together) strap and a new dial together with the new finish of the bezel.

Hublot’s Big Bang King Power (In Ceramic and Red Gold)

Big Bang King Case Back / Movement

Perpetuelle: Would you please highlight a couple of your favorite new models for us?

Mr. Biver: I love the Big Bang evolution quite a lot. Especially as it makes the Big Bang look like a classic now. I was not expecting to reach this evolution already after such a short period

Perpetuelle: What do you view as the core strengths (and/or defining elements) of Hublot?

Mr. Biver: The  strength of Hublot is its concept in itself. The fusion of tradition and future. The permanent research of new colors and new materials. Which at the end make our watches look different and unique

Perpetuelle: What are you wearing now?

Mr. Biver: I am wearing the Bigger Bang All Black. Which incorporates both a great material (the ceramic), a great movement (Tourbillon Chronograph Column Wheel), and a great concept (All Black).

Hublot Bigger Bang All Black

Perpetuelle: Are there any areas in particular that Hublot will be focusing on for 2010 and/or beyond (for example, a focus on certain types of watches / complications / movements)?

Mr. Biver: The focus will be our own movement called UNICO. That will be the highlight of our 2010 collection. And furthermore we will have quite some interesting evolutions of complications.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the distribution strategy and geographical availability of Hublot timepieces.

Mr. Biver: We have and insist to keep a very exclusive and selective distribution network. Not more than 300 retailers are selling our watches all over the world. We control our distribution network in the sense that we are monitoring their sell out before we sell in. in other words a retailer cannot get a shipment of watches as long as we are not convinced about the fact that he has sold them and that he is not piling up stock. Furthermore we try never to deliver more than 70% of the demand. This enables the brand to keep its rarity and cleanness.

Perpetuelle: Can you tell us which, if any, geographies you believe will play in important role in the future growth of Hublot?

Mr. Biver: No doubt China. China will play a big and instrumental role in the future of luxury. Therefore we have to conquer China as soon as possible. The future is clearly in China. But we have to keep the other markets also under control.

Grand Opening of the Hublot boutique in Taipei

Perpetuelle: What is Hublot’s approach towards online media?  How do you see the role of online media changing/evolving in the future as it pertains to Hublot?

Mr. Biver: Online media is like China. It is the future! Online has played a huge role in the development of Hublot.  Especially all the blogs and forum on the net.  Hublot will try to reinforce its presence and communication in the online media. We have to adapt our communication tool towards online. The future is online as online is communication.

Perpetuelle: Thank you Mr. Biver for sharing your time and insights with Perpetuelle.com’s audience of luxury watch owners, collectors & enthusiasts.  We wish you and everyone at Hublot all the best in 2009 and beyond.

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As part of our “Post-Baselworld Interview Series”, Perpetuelle.com recently conducted an interview with Mr. Vincent Perriard, President of Concord.  We are pleased to share this interview with you below in which we ask Mr. Perriard’s for his insights into Baselworld 2009, Concord’s 2009 collection, the rise of online media and more.

The Concord Exhibit at BASELWORLD 2009

Concord President Mr. Vincent Perriard

Perpetuelle: How was BASELWORLD 2009 different for Concord compared to prior years?

Mr. Perriard: In 2007 we have presented the first C1 designs and we finally started to deliver the pieces in early 2008 (14 months ago), so when we attended the BASELWORLD 08, we were just starting to have our first sales at the retail level. 2008 was a massive success with all watches sold in just 2 days. The market was hot, as we all know. Furthermore, we introduced the C1 Gravity, which became in November 08 the best design 2008 with the award from the Grand Prix de Genève.

So 2009 has been a good year because we have reconfirmed 95% of our backorders (the one that we were not able to deliver in 2008). The reason of this good Fair is also simply because we are re-starting the brand and we are opening in 2009 new markets (UK, Germany, Austria, …) so we can balance the bad economy in some countries with the opening of new accounts.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the philosophy behind the new 2009 releases from Concord.

Mr. Perriard: We have introduced a second project, from the so-called “C LAB SERIES” department. After the huge success of the C1 Gravity (75 units sold), we wanted to bring another level of creativity and we certainly wanted to surprise the market. The QuantumGravity is the answer to this objective. With 10 units produced, we have sold already 14… So we will need to say “no” to some of our clients.

The Concord C1 QuantumGravity

Perpetuelle: Would you please highlight a couple of your favorite new models for us?

Mr. Perriard: The QuantumGravity is the first watch in the industry to feature a Double-Axe Tourbillon which is externalized from the watch case. Also, this is the first watch ever created with a vertical Power Reserve, which – in addition – is filled with a fluorescent liquid (nano particles)…. The Tourbillon is hold by a series of cables that enable the Double Axe to work outside of the case…

The QuantumGravity’s Caseback and Nanoparticle Power Reserve meter

As you can see, we are here talking about pure innovation and know-how. This has been developed in joint-venture with BNB Concepts and the C LAB SERIES team at Concord.

I also love the line extensions that we are bringing with the C1 Chronograph on leather straps. The strap is covered by a thin layer of rubber that gives a twist to the watch itself.

Perpetuelle: What do you now view as the core strengths (and/or defining elements) of Concord?

Mr. Perriard: A clear message thanks to the C1 design and shape. Immediately recognizable. A strap attachment system unique in the industry: we have removed the logs that you find on every watch to hold the strap. With the C1, you have a very masculine and big watch on your wrist. But this one fits perfectly your wrist, regardless if you have a small or big wrist. That’s totally unique.

Perpetuelle: What are you wearing now?

Mr. Perriard: Right now, I am wearing the C1 Chronograph BLACK version (black case, black rubber) that we will launch this Fall world-wide.

Concord C1 Chronograph BLACK

Perpetuelle: Are there any areas that Concord will be focusing on for 2010 and/or beyond (for example, a focus on certain types of watches / complications / movements)?

Mr. Perriard: We will continue to surprise the industry with very complex and innovative watches (the C LAB SERIES) and we will come with a sub-line of the C1… the C1s… If you want to follow-up and enter in our mind… have a look at www.clabseries.ch.

Perpetuelle: Please tell us about the distribution strategy and geographical availability of Concord timepieces.

Mr. Perriard: We are expanding our distribution in every part of the globe. We still have a lot of work to do since Concord was not present in many countries. For example, we will open HARRODS in June in London with an exclusive partnership in the city.

We are also pushing a lot in the Latin American market since the demand on Concord C1 is really high today.

Perpetuelle: Can you tell us which, if any, geographies you believe will play in important role in the future growth of Concord?

Mr. Perriard: We are working hard to make sure that the business will be balanced 25% in each important part of the globe (Americas, Europe, Middle East and Asia). Today, in this tough economic situation, Concord is rocking in Mexico and in key Latin American countries. We are doing really well in Italy and we will open in June Northern Europe cities. I believe with a strong design such as the C1, we expect to have a balanced business in all these key countries, including – of course – the Russian market (which remains strong for the high complicated watches such as the C1 Gravity or the C1 QuantumGravity).

Perpetuelle: What role do you see for online media (such as Perpetuelle.com, for example) and Concord?  How do you see this role changing/evolving in the future?

Mr. Perriard: We are totally and completely sure that the web is now entering in a second phase for the watch industry. We are one of the few brands that have decided to massively invest time and energy to showcase the brand, to communicate with the watch community and to spread the news throughout the web. So, you will see us more and more. Check out GOOGLE to realize how present we are… after only 14 months of presence in the market place.

Perpetuelle: Thanks you for sharing your time and insights with Perpetuelle.com’s audience of luxury watch owners, collectors & enthusiasts.  We wish you and everyone at Concord all the best in 2009 and beyond.

To begin our “Post-Baselworld Interview Series”, Perpetuelle.com recently conducted an interview with Roberto Passarrielo, Director of Marketing & Communication for Bell & Ross.  We are pleased to share this interview with you below in which we receive Mr. Passariello’s insights into Baselworld 2009, the Bell & Ross brand, social media and more.

The Bell & Ross Exhibit at Baselworld 2009

Beginning this week, Perpetuelle.com will be featuring a series of “post-BASELWORLD” interviews that I recently conducted with many leading brands.  Here is a small taste of the many interviews Perpetuelle.com has conducted that you can look forward to in coming weeks:

• Breguet (Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek)
• Bell & Ross
• Concord (Mr. Vincent Perriard)
• Perrelet
• And more that you won’t want to miss!

A new interview will be posted each week.  I hope you will enjoy all of them.

Kyle
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Luxury watchmaker Perrelet introduced several new and impressive watch collections at BASELWORLD  2009.  One of them is the TURBINE collection, which was featured here on Perpetuelle.com a few days ago.  After seeing photos of this watch I was instantly intrigued.  Now Perrelet has released a short video clip with a little bit of flair and also a brief idea of how the watch looks in action.  The one potential shortcoming of this watch that I noticed is that the hands appear difficult to read against the slatted rotor background – but this seems like a problem easily fixed with some appropriately colored hands.  Anyway, please enjoy this video and then jump on over to Perpetuelle’s Baselworld Forum to see more!

Glashütte Original has prepared a nice video slide-show of its new novelties revealed at Baselworld 2009.  This is a nice 5:44 clip which is set to some nice soft Jazz and other music   This is a brand that continues to impress me, year after year, with its original and beautiful design concepts and “Made in Germany” craftsmanship.

Here’s the video, and don’t forget you can check out hundreds more new watches in photo and Video from this year’s show on the #1 Baselworld Forum on the Internet, Perpetuelle.com!

This is a new brand I recently discovered – I&MT – Instruments & Mesures du Temps Switzerland. Well, new to me at least! The website doesn’t have much information about the brand or who is behind it, but still worth a look as they have some rather unique watches: www.imtwatches.com. Do you know anything about this brand and who is behind it? If so please let me know! Also, I enjoy their mott/tagline – “Watchmakers + since always – ” Quite clever – love it! They have put together a neat video to feature their new “Classic Racer” watch which was released at BASELWORLD 2009. I enjoyed it and thought you would, too.