Tourbillon, Minute repeater with Westminster chime…

Girard-Perregaux Opera One

40mm white gold case, sapphire case-back,  GP9899 manual winding mechanical movement, Frequency: 3 Hz, Power reserve: 75+ hours

What you see above is a new variation of the “Opera One”, an watch that was introduced by Swiss luxury watch manufacture Girard-Perregaux in recent years.  Actually I not certain when the first Girard-Perregaux “Opera” watch was introduced (help me here, GP!), but there are now three variations – Opera One, Opera Two, and Opera Three (my personal favorite of the group).  These are all highly complicated watches that demonstrate the true prowess of Girard-Perregaux’s watchmakers.  With a price well into the six-digits and perhaps approaching $500,000, I think it is safe to say that the the exclusivity of this — in fact all the Opera watches — speak for themselves.

What makes this watch so expensive?  Mostly the fact that it has a tourbillon and a minute repeater — arguably two of the most complicated and challenging functions to integrate into a wristwatch.  And not just any minute repeater, but one that can play a Westminster chime.   A Westminster chime is a specific melody chimed by the watch on the hour using four hammers to play a melody of four different notes – I’m sure you’ve heard it before, it is quite popular on clocks and clocktowers.

This new Opera One watch differs from its predecessor in that it has a a semi-transparent dial.  GP describes it as a semi-transparent, tinted sapphire dial”, but what they mean by “tinted” is not clear to me from image.  I have mixed feelings about this new dial — while I do appreciate the sunburst pattern on the crystal, it seems somewhat dizzying.  But I suppose to have made it completely transparent would have meant this watch would not be much different from the first Opera One (REF : 99750-52-000-BA6A) except for the use of white gold rather than pink gold for the case.  Then again, a watch of this caliber is one you absolutely must see to appreciate.  And not just see, but hear!

Minute repeater hammers

If you look closely at the dial, you can see the three [white] golden bridges which run horizontally behind the crystal.  The “tourbillon with gold bridges” is in fact a signature of the brand and they have produced many watches built around this design.  The shape of the three gold bridges on this particular watch have been given a nicely stylised redesign in order to incorporate the chime mechanism, and if you look closely you can see three of the four chime hammers through the dial (the fourth appears when the chime sounds).  The lower bridge secures the tourbillon, which is fully visible at the 6 o’clock position.   As a reminder for any watch neophytes out there, a tourbillon is a rotating mechanism that is designed to eliminate the effects of gravity on the watch’s regulating organ, the escapement.

The case-back is also sapphire/transparent, but I am not yet able to obtain pictures from GP — I’d venture a good guess this watch looks beautiful on the back side.  But as I said above this watch is more about the sound than the sight.  While it is not my favorite Girard-Perregaux, it will most surely find a good home in the hands of a discerning collector who can appreciate its beauty.

-Invenit et Fecit-

2010 commemorates the 10 year anniversary of the F.P. Journe “Chronomètre à Resonance”, a watch that is part of elite watchmaker François-Paul Journe’s highly coveted Souveraine collection.  In a slight tweak from the prior variation (circa 2004), this new edition now features a 24 hour indicator located at the 9′oclock position instead of 12 hour time.  Journe also continues his tradition of crafting the double-balance wheel movement out of 18K rose gold, a F.P. Journe “first” when the 2004 Chronomètre à Résonance was introduced.  As for the case, the new Chronomètre a Résonance will be available in two versions: platinum or 18K red gold — of course these are the only metals Journe sees fit to use for his cases.  You can read more about the “resonance” effect of this watch below.

F.P.Journe Chronomètre a Résonance with 24 hour indicator

 38mm or 40mm case size (9mm height), 24h indicator with small seconds on the left, local time with small seconds on the right, power reserve at 11 o’clock

Caliber 1499.3 manual winding movement, 40 hour power reserve

If you are interested in a full on review of this watch (actually it is the earlier variation), Felipe Jordão of “ThePurists” wrote an excellent review in Feb’05 – loaded with pics and info – just click HERE to see it!

Resonance – Did you know?

The first applications of the resonance phenomenon in horological science date back to the 18th century, by French master watchmaker Antide Janvier (†1840). He observed the negative effects of these waves on clocks and then conducted his own research on ways of using this phenomenon in the operating of regulators.

Any animate body transmits a vibration to its environment. When another body picks up this vibration, it absorbs its energy and begins to vibrate at the same frequency.  The first is called the “exciter” and the second the “resonator”. This physical phenomenon known as “resonance” is an integral part of our daily life and yet we hardly even notice it.  When we are looking for a program on the radio, it crackles until the chosen wavelengths meet those of the transmitter: only then do they harmonise to begin resonating together!
In the case of the this resonance wristwatch created by François-Paul journe, each balance alternately serves as exciter and resonator. When both balances are in motion, they reach a state of “sympathy” throught the effect of resonance and began to beat naturally in the opposite direction. The two balances therefore support each other, giving greater inertia to their movement. This harmony is only possible if the difference in frequency between the two is no more than five seconds per day accumulated in 6 positions. Adjusting them is an extremely delicate task. While an external disturbing movement affects the running of a traditional mechanical watch, in the case of a resonance watch this same disturbance has the effect of accelerating one of the balances and slowing down the other. Little by little, the two balances come back together to reach a point of agreement and thereby eliminate the disturbance. This innovative chronometer offers a level of precision that is unrivalled among mechanical watches.

A Next Generation Watch + Instrument for Space Travel…

In August of 2009 I introduced you to the new Sweden-based watch brand Halda Watch Co. (How High Will Halda Fly?  New Brand Launches, 08/25/09).  As I indicated at the time, Halda was a brand to keep an eye on.  And it still is.  While Halda is at the moment only a “one-watch” story, it has incorporated several elements into its core philosophy that I think bode well for its success – that is, the use of high technology and materials, innovative design, and most importantly a unique modular “watch + instrument” combination.

At Baselworld 2010, Halda Watch officially unveiled its first creation – the Halda Space Discovery watch.  Actually the Halda Space Discovery watch is more than just a watch – it is a combination of a watch and a space instrument, or “module” as Halda calls it.   You may be thinking that Halda’s approach is somewhat similar to the now uber-hot watch + instrument maker Linde Werdelin, and if so I would tend to agree with you, though as they say “so close, yet so far away” and there are some rather distinct differences in the “watch + instrument” philosophy of each of these two exciting brands. I’ll talk about this more in a moment, but first let’s take a closer look at the Halda Space Discovery watch.

The Docking System

At its core, the Halda Space Discovery is built around what it calls the Halda “Docking System”, a platform that accommodates two interchangeable modules ‐ one, an advanced electronic “Space Module” and two, a “Mechanical Module”.    Basically, the “Docking System” is an empty stainless steel watch case with a patent-pending triple-lock system for the modules.  The bracelet is also stainless steel.  As the following pictures demonstrate, one module can be swapped out for the other at the wearer’s will.  Note that this differs from Linde Werdelin’s approach which is to use a “clip-on” instrument that goes on-top of and in addition to the mechanical watch (certainly a “bulkier” but perhaps no less desirous an approach).  Here’s a closer look at the Halda “Docking System”:

Docking “In Process”

Space Module, Fully Docked (Time Module on the sidelines)

The Space Module

The digital Space Module is very much designed for space use.  To be candid, that’s about all it is valid for.  That is, unless you can tell me who besides an astronuat might have a need for a G-Force counter (aka a 3‐axis accelerometer), a “Mission Time” countdown function based on the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) Countdown 101, UTC (24 hour) and MET (Mission Elapsed Time), event log, alarms, dual time and chronograph functions   Actually some of these functions would come in handy on Earth, but obviously this module is loaded for a true astronaut.

The case of the Space Module is made of TECAMAX, a new material certified by NASA and proven to meet tough requirements for durability and precision. It is also extraordinarily light, strong, and temperature and corrosion resistant – all important attributes for space use.  The Space Module is fitted with a sapphire crystal – unless you do actually plan to take the watch to space, in which case Halda will replace your sapphire with Hesalite crystal — a preferred choice of space watches because the material will not shatter into small pieces upon breaking like a sapphire crystal would.

The Mechanical Module

The Mechanical Module is a very simple timekeeper + date function.  More exciting to me is its movement – a high performance New Old Stock (NOS) movement, manufactured by the watchmaker Svend Andersen, a renowned independent watchmaker and co-founder of the AHCI, a prestigious organization of indepdendent watchmakers (his story is wonderfully captured in this book, if you want to learn more).  Curiously enough, Svend Andersen also collaborates with Linde Werdelin for some of its movements (like this one, for example), but I would guess that this is probably just a mere coincidence.  After all, Svend Andersen is very good at what he does so why not work with him if you can?  Halda’s “H1920‐SA” movement by Svend Andersen operates at the unusual and high frequency of 5 HZ, or 36,000 bph (beats per hour), and here is what it looks like:

And that about sums up the Halda Space Discovery watch!  In closing, I’ll say that while I have not been able to see the watch in person, I am very impressed and excited at what Halda has come up with as for its first product.  I like Halda’s modular, instrument based approach and I think there is potential to move beyond just the Space Module, which after all is not of much use to most of us gravity-bound folks.  But like Linde Werdelin already does, perhaps an instrument for skiing or diving could prove quite popular.  I will keep you posted as I obtain more insight into the brands future ambitions. You can also check out more details on Halda’s neat website if you want to read more.

Finally, I will note that only 128 individually numbered watches will be produced, and almost half of them are already reserved so you better get yours ordered soon if you want one!  Price is 8,000 EUR (about $10,800) with an expected delivery time of 3-4 months.  You can select a specific serial # (17 /128 is now the lowest available).  A special note to all of you who may be planning to take a trip on Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic in 2011 or beyond — I am in particular recommending this watch for you.  All who are interested may may contact Mikael Sandström, CEO Halda Watches Co. — sandstrom@haldasweden.com — and he will assist you in securing your very own Halda Space Discovery watch and space instrument.

Hublot to Sponsor Financial Times iPad App…

Apple’s new and much heralded iPad officially launches this coming weekend (April 3).  And yes, I have a couple horlogical twists to this story.  The first is that unlike others who pre-ordered their iPad and blamed Breguet for making them do it, I decided not to be an early adopter of this new device.  According to the Financial Times, Apple has allowed only a few publishers – including the New York Times and Wall Street Journal – to work with the device and there will be just a handful of dedicated media applications for the device at its US launch this weekend. 

The Financial Times will also be one of the initial media offerings available on the new iPad.  Its iPad “app” is planned for release in Europe and the US in late April and will have the same subscription requirements as FT.com, one of the few websites to charge for news.  What caught my attention – and is my second “horlogical twist” to the article here – is that the FT iPad app will be sponsored at launch by Hublot!  Yes, Hublot “the watchmaker” (as the FT blandly describes the brand in what is at a minimum a nominee for understament of the year) will be subsidizing a two-month free access period to the FT app.  

What will their ads look like on the iPad?  Please do tell, John Biggs! 

In summary, it looks like via its sponsorship of the Financial Times, Hublot can lay claim to being the first watch brand to show itself on the Apple iPad.  Congrats to Jean-Claude Biver and team for yet again being on the cutting-edge of technology! 

No, not sleep apnea!  I’m talking about a tribute watch for champion free diver Guillaume Néry…

Announced at Baselworld 2010, this new BALL Engineer Master II dive watch now features a world time function.  The 45mm diamter brushed steel case (black or white dial) houses a modified ETA 2836 movement (added the world time function).  With bi-directional rotating bezel, screw-in crown(s) and 300m water resistance, this should be a pretty solid diver.  Comes on a rubber strap or brushed stainless steel bracelet.  The watch was created as a tribute to Guillaume Néry (his portrait is engraved on the caseback), and yes there is more to his story below.

Guillaume Néry:  A Freediving Star

28-year old Frenchman Guillaume Néry is a BALL Watch ambassador and is known for his feats as a freediver.  Perhaps not surprisingly, he is also an ardent advocate and supporter of the oceans and protecting the marine environment.  In 2006, he became the world record holder for “constant weight apnea” (aka freediving with a fin(s)) when he descended to an astonishing depth of 109 meters (357.6 feet).  He was subsequently bested by Austrian Herbert Nitsch and others, with Nitsch now being the current world record holder in the constant weight category.  Nitsch’s accomplishment?  123 meters – or 403.5 feet!

To a landlubber such as myself this kind of thing is totally insane!  At these levels, this sport absolutely pushes the limits of human physical capability.  To me it is almost incomprehensible how they can accomplish such depths — truly amazing.  You can judge for youself here in this BALL sponsored video of Néry’s then record-setting 109 meter freedive:

Néry Freedive to a depth of 109 meters (357.6 feet)

An elegant watch with an exceptionally accurate moon phase display…

For whatever reason this is the first I have written about Swiss watch brand H. Moser & Cie. on the blog.  Perhaps because its PR efforts are about as understated as its watches.  But for those of us who like the sophisticated, understated look, H. Moser is definitely a brand to keep in mind.  While relatively obscure , the brand is known amongst watch collectors for its exceptionally graceful watch designs and well finished movements, as well as its commitment to post-purchase service.  Prices for its watches start at around $10,000 and go up from there.

This year at Baselworld, H. Moser introduced two new models.  The one I am sharing with you here is the H. Moser Perpetual Moon.  This watch features a moon phase display which deviates only by a single day after more than 1,000 years.

H. Moser Perpetual Moon

40.8 mm case in platinum or red gold, dark blue fumé dial

The complicated gear train of the Perpetual Moon watch translates the interval of time that it takes the moon to orbit the earth so precisely that the resulting deviation is only 0.23 seconds per day. Or a whole day after 1,027.30 years.  In order to achieve the extraordinarily high display accuracy, the moon disc must be securely attached to the hour indicator and run with it continuously.  Here is a slightly closer look at each variation:

Platinum

Rose Gold

I also have here a nice video which will give you a better feel for the brand’s style.  Learn more at http://www.h-moser.com/.

Up close and in video with the green ceramic watch…

Last week you saw the new Bell & Ross Instrument BR03-92 Military Green Ceramic watch.  I knew this watch was a winner as soon as I saw it, and it is definitely one of the best watches to come out of Baselworld 2010, in my view.   Now you can see this watch in up-close and in video – as presented by Roberto Passariello, Communications Director for Bell & Ross.  It looks simply outstanding – B&R really has really nailed the whole “Instrument” concept.

The perfect blend of color and materials finally make this concept work…

The Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL was first introduced at Basel 2008.  The concept behind this watch is a good one, which is to engineer and design the watch so that there is a minimalistic dial (at least not in the traditional sense of a dial) and the bridge (beautifully engraved) and balance wheel are visible through the front of the watch (normally features that appear on the back of a watch).  As I say while the concept is a good one, I never liked the color scheme of the first watches GO released (pictured below).  When I first personally handled the watch, I found that the black rings with applied gold numerals indicating the hours and minutes just did not seem to find harmony with the rest of the watch — in fact I think they drew the eye’s attention away from from the most visually compelling element of the watch, the engraved bridge and related components.

The first generation PanoInverse XL watches (2008) were not attractive to me

This year, however, is a different story.  At Baselworld 2010, Glashutte Original introduced a new variation of the PanoInverse XL in stainless steel case with a subtle graphite/gray finish on the dial.  Everything about this watch works.  As you can see, the use of stainless steel numerals and accents looks so much better and more refined that the prior gold-accented versions.  The watch looks amazing!

Taking a closer look (below), you can see the hand-engraved duplex swan-neck bridge is visually impressive.  The duplex swan-neck fine adjustment introduced by Glahütte Original in 2002 is the epitome of demanding haute horlogerie and innovative and aesthetic movement design.  This is a feature rarely seen in watches today.  Functionally, what this mechanism allows is for the timekeeping rate of the watch to be finely adjusted (for example, if it is running somewhat too fast or too slow).

Glashütte Original always pays great attention to the finest details, and this watch is no exception.  For example, notice below that the applied numerals and hour markers are curved/shaped to add to the depth of the watch.  Impressive.

In summary, I think that this unique “inverse” concept has finally been masterfully executed, primarily as a result of some improvements in the color tones of the watch, and I would be proud to own such a fine timepiece.

Classically handsome…

Two new Zenith watches presented at Baselworld this year really made a fine impression on me and many other watch enthusiasts collectors.  Seems that Zenith has made a bit of a return to the “classic” and “timeless” designs that it is known for, and I think the brand will be handsomely rewarded in the marketplace for these new watches.  The first watch is the El Primoro 1/10th second foudroyante – which you can check out here.  The second model is this new “ultra-thin” watch.  Simple and elegant, it is an ideal dress watch:

Zenith Elite 681 Ultra Thin

40mm case housing ultra-thin (3.81 mm) Elite 681 self-winding calibre with 50 hrs power reserve

18 carat rose gold (pictured) or stainless steel with sapphire crystal display back.  comes on an alligator strap with matching metal buckle

Ref. 5960P: Annual Calendar chronograph in platinum with a new dial…

This watch, combining two of the most popular horological complications (calendar and chronograph), has ranked among of Patek’s bestsellers since it was launched in 2006.  This year’s third and newest addition to the collection has a vivid matte blue sunburst dial that is undoubtedly the defining element of this watch.  Set against a platinum case, it really is splendid.  I just can’t enough of it!  The manufacture movement – an automatic, column-wheel chronograph (the CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H) – is all you would expect from Patek.  The exquisite finishing of the movement with hand-chamfered steel levers and bridges as well as elegant Geneva striping deserve the exposure provided by the screwed case back with a sapphire crystal window.  The hand-stitched, large-scaled blue alligator strap with platinum fold-over clasp completes the watch.

Just one of many fantastic new watches from Patek Philippe this year!