Perpetuelle’s Baselworld 2014 coverage continues with a reveal of the new Chopard Mille Miglia Chronograph. This sport watch is highly anticipated by Chopard fans when it is launched each year. This year’s edition has softer lines and a bit more of a ‘vintage’ look to it, with slender cursive dial font and soldered (rather than screwed in) lugs. It also carries a more distinic “Italian” flavor to it, with its red tachometric scale and hands, white dial and green minute track. I noticed also that the usual rubber strap with 1960s Dunlop racing tyre-tread motif has been replaced by a version in overstitched Barenia calfskin, given the watch an even softer and more vintage feel this year.
by Kyle Stults on March 30, 2014
A pair of wonderful references unveiled by Breguet this year, the new Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar (“Quantième Perpétuel” aka QP) is offered in red gold ref 3797 (images below), including an absolutely exquisite openworked version, the 3795 (video above) in red gold or platinum. These references replace the 3757 Classique Grandes Complications. Of note are the clever use of a raised sapphire disc, retrograde date, and other features — as I detail below.
Hermès new Dressage L’heure masquée is a playful watch with dual time zone with a secret hour hand. Somewhat reminiscent of the also-whimsical Arceau Le Temps suspendu from a few years ago, a the Dressage L’heure masquée is constructed such that the hour hand and second time zone display remain hidden, revealing themselves only when and so long as the crown is pressed. They disappear again when the pusher is released.
by Kyle Stults on March 30, 2014
Linde Werdelin took a page from last year’s forged carbon SpidoLite models to launch a similar take on its SpidoSpeed Chronograph. The new SpidoSpeed Green (there is also a rose gold/black model) showcases a new skeletonized dial and movement (on top of the already partially skeletonized forged carbon case) for a solidly technical look. Along with this new distinction, the forged carbon outer case — first unveiled by LW at Baselworld last year in the “SpidoLite II Tech” (see my hands-on photos here) – is complimented by bold use of green color on features such as the dial LW-customized rotor, pusher level engraving on the inner case, and the new signature Linde Werdelin pattern visible on the movement plate. Wicked cool, and a superb example of how to use color to help define a watch.
Independent watchmaker Gerald Clerc — who carries on the brand on for the 4th generation — has unveiled this year at Baselworld a superb take on his exclusive Hydroscaphe central chronograph. Clerc has maintained the overall design and functionality of the Hydroscaphe central chronograph — a great watch in its own right — while stepping up with some new materials innovation. As the name implies the Clerc Hydroscaphe CARBON puts on full display a black DLC-coated steel case with NPTP carbon bezel, paired with a great looking carbon fibre-texture strap. Clerc’s 103-part case construction is already among the most complex and unique on offer today, and to execute with carbon bezel is a brilliant choice for the avant-garde and masculine Hydroscaphe series. Production will be limited to 140 pieces, in celebration of the mark’s 140th anniversary.
Histoire de Tourbillon 5 is the first in the series to be crafted in rose gold. This variation continues in the open-worked movement, which is black instead of the conventional grey.
Building on the technical challenges introduced throughout the series – from Histoire de Tourbillon 1, which explores the movement and sculpture of the complication, to Histoire de Tourbillon 4, which seeks the next level of precision and performance with a tri-axial tourbillon – Harry Winston has decided to, for the first time, fully reveal the exceptional mechanism behind the tourbillon.
Limited Edition of 20 pieces
Movement: mechanical, manual-winding, 381 components, 57 jewels, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 50 hours power reserve
Internal carriage Internal carriage containing the balance spring and the escapement pinion rotating cycle of 45 seconds
Intermediate carriage rotating cycle of 75 seconds
External carriage rotating cycle of 300 seconds
Material: 18K rose gold.
Case dimensions: Diameter: 47 mm Height: 21.7 mm
Did you know that Rolex only has two watch “collections”? That’s right — Oyster and Cellini. Because the watches in the Rolex Oyster collection are so vast and diverse, most people don’t really think of them all as being part of just one collection. But what most people think of when they hear the name ‘Rolex’ are the watches of the Oyster collection. The Cellini is Rolex’s “other” and much less-known collection. I rarely give Cellini’s any attention. But this year the new Cellini models, in particular their guilloche dials (except on the time-only model) – caught my eye. Very elegant, and nicely sized at 39mm. Have a look.
by Kyle Stults on March 27, 2014
Another of the 2014 highlights from Patek Philippe: the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A, representing the next generation of the Nautilus chronograph, the first of which was presented in 2006. The new Patek Philippe Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1A replaces the Nautilus chronograph Ref. 5980/1A with a steel bracelet, which was first presented in 2006 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection.
For the first time, the Nautilus is presented with the combination of dual time zone function and a chronograph (and day and night indicators). Overall Patek has maintained the look and feel of the original Nautilus, while integrating the new functionality and other subtle design changes. For just one example, note the two correctors positioned at 9 o’clock which enable adjustment of the time zone up and down in one hour increments — clean, subtle, and also faithful to the original case lines. I’ll explain further, below.
by Kyle Stults on March 27, 2014
Though last year’s groundbreaking Constant Escapement set the bar very high, the talented folks at Girard-Perregaux have really outdone themselves this year. At the top of the stack is the new Tri-Axial Tourbillon — a limited edition of only ten pieces, each priced at a cool $501,900. This is a spectacular watch — and a real study in technical watchmaking done right. I’ll break it down for you, below.
Omega extends its Aqua Terra series with two new men’s (41.5mm) and two new ladies’ (34mm and 38.5mm) models this year. The Aqua Terra is distinguished by its lacquered black or blue dial features with the “Teak Concept” vertical lines. Available July 2014.
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