Jaquet Droz’s New Grande Seconde Deadbeat

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat dial detail - Perpetuelle

With a warm grand feu enamel dial and an appealing presentation of time, the new Grand Second Deadbeat from Jaquet Droz is not a watch one comes across every day.  Of course its most distinguishing feature — as its name clearly notes — is the incorporation of a “dead beat” seconds into the mechanics. What this means is that the seconds hand “ticks” in one second increments – yes, imitating the action of an analog quartz watch, of all things.  So rather than sweeping smoothly as would typically be seen with an automatic mechanical movement, the seconds hand uses some clever mechanics to give it unique appeal.

Inspired by the Pocket Watch created by Pierre Jaquet-Droz in 1784, the Grande Seconde is one of Jaquet Droz’s core collections. In this collection the seconds subdial sits in the lower half of the dial centered along the 6 o’clock line.  It is noticeably larger than the hour+minute dial, also set off center just off of 12 o’clock — hence the “Grande Seconde” name.  However in this latest model, the seconds hand is center-set and sweeps the entire circumference of the dial rather than being a subdial.  On top is the hours+minutes (note the use of “5 6 7″ numerals in tandem with the Romans — unusual for sure, but it works), and down below is a date hand.  It all comes together quite nicely.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat - Perpetuelle

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat caseback detail - Perpetuelle

Introducing the H. Moser & Cie Venturer Small Seconds Ref 2327-0200

H Moser Logo

H. Moser Venturer Small Seconds white dial Roman numerals - Perpetuelle

Though a lot of H. Moser’s Baselworld headlines went to its one-of-kind, sapphire-cased skeleton tourbillon with 3-D printed strap, the manufacture had plenty of other superb releases that deserve a closer look.  Case in point:  the new Venturer Small Seconds you see here.  In an interesting twist on its typical aesthetic, H. Moser has given this reference a white lacquered dial with Roman numeral treatment.  Moser calls it a “neo-vintage” look.  I prefer to call it “stunningly simple and beautiful.”

So what’s noteworthy here?  For starters, the Venturer Small Seconds has until now only been made in red gold; this model has a white gold case.  Deliciously sized at 39mm x 12.5mm.  Then there’s the dial.  Typically, Moser dials are adorned with applied baton indices; here we see the elegant Romans printed on top of the white lacquer.  The leaf shaped, blued-steel hands on this reference are also a first for Moser, I believe.  Like the rest of the Venturer models, the dial has a convex profile, its curved edges making the most of its three dimensions.

H. Moser Venturer Small Seconds white dial Roman numerals detail - Perpetuelle

The small seconds sub recalls the historic pocket watches created by H. Moser & Cie. The subdial is positioned as close as possible to the bottom of the main dial, a technical feat made possible thanks to the exceptional in-house movement fitted within this creation.  The hand-wound calibre HMC 327 movement has a power reserve of 3+ days and is designed, developed and finished entirely in-house.  It has hacking seconds (stops when you pull the crown out — for more accurate time setting) and beats at a leisurely 18,000 vph.

H. Moser Venturer Small Seconds caseback - Perpetuelle

H Moser calibre HMC 327 - Perpetuelle

The Venturer Small Seconds is priced at $20,500.  Consider me a fan.

A Gorgeous Longines Pocket Watch: Horses Trio 1911

Longines logo white on blue

Longines Pocket Watch Horses Trio 1911 remake - Perpetuelle

The Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Horses Trio 1911 is a classically-styled pocket watch in 18-carat rose gold (48mm), with a decorated caseback showing a trio of horses.  It is a 2015 limited edition issue by Longines, as a tribute to the pocket watch of similar style that can now be found at the Longines museum in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, (also shown below).

The piece has a white lacquer dial with painted Arabic numerals, blued-steel Breguet style hands, and a small seconds subdial with railtrack at 6 o’clock.  Inside is, of course, a manual wind mechanical caliber; it beats at gentle 18,000 vph and has a power reserve of 40 hours.  Unfortunately the caseback decoration is stamped, which I think is an opportunity missed for Longines.  Engraving would have been more appropriate a distinguished choice for a “very limited” piece such as this.  A nice looking piece from Longines nonetheless.

The 1911 Inspirational Piece

Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch 1911 - Perpetuelle

 

Art Special: The Hermès Slim d’Hermès Perspective Cavalière Series

Hermès Slim d'Hermès Perspective Cavalière - red - Perpetuelle

Hermès offers its own interpretation of the “Perspective cavalière” (isometric perspective) through a set of exceptional new models featuring : Slim d’Hermès Perspective Cavalière.  The dial is champlevé enamelled white gold in blue, red, yellow or white, with gold hands and a Perspective Cavalière motif borrowed from a Hermès scarf.  If you look closely and creatively, you can see the motif includes formation of the phrase “Hermès Paris.”  This type of watch is why I admire Hermès so much — modern and creative, yet artisinal and reliant upon traditional watchmaking techniques.

Macro pics and full details on the click