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BROWSE 2013: Dive Watches 
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Breguet Classique Chronograph 5827BR
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Baselworld 2013…

A new, two-register central chronograph from Breguet, with manual wind caliber.

Breguet Classique Chronograph 5827BR

42.5mm rose gold with a finely fluted caseband (12.1mm thick), dial silvered and engine-turned in four different patterns; Small seconds at 9 o’clock and 30 minutes counter at 3 o’clock, tachometer scale around the hours chapter.

Hand-wound chronograph movement Breguet Cal. 533.3, (Power reserve of 48 hours, 3Hz)

Also available in a white-gold case: ref. 5287BB/12/9ZV.
Also available with a black dial in a white- or rose-gold case: refs 5287BR/92/9ZVand 5287BB/92/9ZV

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Breguet Classique Grandes Complications 5377BR Ultra Thin
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Baselworld 2013…7mm thin

If I am not mistaken, this is now the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch at 7mm.  Just days ago Arnold & Son previewed their UTTE whose case is 8.34mm, and claimed world record status.  The caliber in that watch was 2.97mm thin.  However I have no word on the thickness of this caliber (although the case dimensions are certainly thinner).  Back with more soon…

Breguet Classique Grandes Complications 5377BR

42mm rose gold case (7mm thin) with a finely fluted caseband, gold dial, silvered and engine-turned in four different patterns, hours chapter with Roman numerals; Breguet open-tipped hands in polished steel; small seconds on the tourbillon. Power reserve (90 hours) indicator at 8:30.

automatic mechanical extra-thin tourbillon movement, Breguet Cal 581DR, Barrel on roller bearings. Lateral lever escapement in silicon and anti-magnetic steel. Silicon balance spring. 4Hz frequency.

Breguet Classique Grandes Complications 5377BR Dial Closeup

Also available in a platinum case: reference 5377PT/12/9WU.

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Patek Philippe 5170G Chronograph with Breguet Numerals
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Patek Logo

Patek Philippe Ref 5170G Chronograph Patek Philippe’s 5170J (yellow gold) was introduced in 2010.  With an in-house caliber (replacing the Ref 5070′s Lemania caliber), it was a worthy addition to the list of manually wound, two-register chronographs from Patek.  This year, Patek has rolled out the 5170 in white gold.  It is essentially the same as the 5170J, same movement and 39mm case size, though there has been a subtle dial revision.

Like the 5170J, the 5170 in white gold is powered by the hand-wound Caliber CH 29-535 PS, a double register column-wheel chronograph with 65 hours power reserve and bearing the PP seal of excellence.  The big change here is the dial.  It has a silvery-white dial with a full set of Breguet numerals (save for the where the chrono registers sit).  This is significant because the prior model had two roman numerals XII and VI and stick baton hour markers. See here:

Patek Philippe 5170G and 5170J Dial Comparison

I really like the revision, being a fan of Breguet style numerals.   What say you?

Pricing on the Patek Philippe 5170G will be $87,100.  Full specs at Patek.com>>>

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Patek Philippe Gondolo 8 Days, Day & Date Indication
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Patek Gondolo 8 Days with Silvery Dial Ref 5200G-010 White Gold Patek Gondolo 8 Days Day Date  5200G-001 Blue Dial

Overall this year Patek does not have many “new new” models, instead it seems they have focused on offering existing models in new case metals, and some other smaller details, such as minor case changes and also dials.  Though some of these will be meaningful changes for Patek collectors — for example the Ref 5170 two-register chronograph is now offered in white gold with silvery-white dial and a full Breguet numeral layout.  This is significant because the prior model had two roman numerals XII and VI and stick baton hour markers.  Being a fan of Breguet numerals, I really like the new style of the 5170 — but I digress — more on this later.

Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5200 Gondolo 8 Days, Day & Date is offered in sunburst blue and silvery white versions.  It is set in a contoured, rectangular Art Deco case with two tiered sides, and a newly developed, manually wound form movement with silicon components. Case dimensions are 37.4mm × 46.9mm x 10.4mm thick.
Click through for full det’s on the new Gondolo 8 Days

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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Glashutte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator Watches

The new Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Regulator unites the classic regulator display (minute display at center, other indicators positioned as subsidiary) with an officially certified manual winding chronometer movement in manner that epitomizes German watchmaking, at least for me.  The lacquered silver-grainé dial goes perfectly with the blue hands.  That slender, shaped minute hand is particularly elegant.  On the central axis above and below the minute indicator are the subsidiary hour and seconds displays.  Power reserve and date panorama display round it out.  It will be offered in red and white gold, both pictured.
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Glashütte Original Senator Sixties and Sixtes Panorama Date
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Baselworld 2013…

Job

Since their debut in 2007 the Sixties models from Glashütte Original have proven very popular, and not only with fans of “vintage” trends.  They are great looking watches.  For 2013 the Saxon watchmaker (A. Lange’s next door neighbor) introduces the Sixties in a nice midnight blue color, with sunburst finish, both for the date (“Panorama Date”) and no-date models.  The Sixties is presented in a 39 mm polished stainless steel case, while the Sixties Panorama Date has a 42 mm case.  The Panorama Date window is on a blue background — a thoughtful details.  However I’ve always found the contrast between the retro numerals on the dial and the standard sans-serif font of the date window to be a bit at odds with each other.  For this reason I strongly prefer the Sixties, sans date.

Glashutte Original Senator Sixties Blue Dial 2013

Glashutte Original Senator Sixties Panorama Date Blue Dial 2013

The watches both have a sapphire display back.  The movements are automatic mechanical, Caliber 39 series. Characteristic  features of Glashütte movement finishing are the bevelled edges, polished steel  components, a swan neck fine adjustment, Glashütte three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing and a skeletonized rotor with oscillating mass in 21-carat gold.   They do a nice job with their movements even for more entry-level production models such as these.

 

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Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Glashutte Original Senator Tourbillon Angleview

The Senator Tourbillon, one of two tourbillons presented this year by Glashutte Original, is presented in a white gold, 42mm case, with beautiful gray grained dial.   It features a somewhat slimmer bezel than previous Senator models, framing the dial which is set with fine Roman numerals and a classic railroad chapter ring and slender, elegant hands crafted of white gold.

Glashutte Original Senator Tourbillon

Taking pride of place on the dial is the superb and beautiful Flying Tourbillon with seconds indicator, positioned at six o’clock in harmonious counterpoint to the Panorama Date window up top.  Automatic caliber 94-03, manufacture made as are all of GO’s movements.

Glashutte Original Senator Tourbillon Watch

A very classically styled watch, I like it.

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Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Baselworld 2013…

Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon

A number of models in Glashütte Original’s Pano line were presented at Baselworld 2012 in a contemporary reinterpretation that saw a larger cylindrical case and enhanced dial visuals framed by a slim, elegant bezel.   For 2013 GO builds on the contemporary look with the PanoLunarTourbillon, in a 40mm red gold case and a warm silver dial.   The characteristic  asymmetric design of the Pano timepieces puts the large hour/minute dial positioned to the left of centre, in alignment with the Flying Tourbillon that is centered at seven.  This is one of two tourbillons that GO will present for 2013.
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Breitling Transocean Chronograph QP (Perpetual Calendar)
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Baselworld 2013…

Breitling Transocean Chronograph QP

Breitling Transocean Chronograph QP - Copy

Quick look!

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Breitling Emergency II
by Kyle Stults on April 25, 2013
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Baselworld 2013… Breitling Logo

Breitling Emergency II Yellow and Black

Breitling fans have been waiting for this one, and it is now here:  the new Breitling Emergency II.  It has some new features including a rechargeable battery, a dual frequency transmitter, and an integrated antenna system.  The original Breitling Emergency first debuted in 1995 and operated on the 121.5 MHz international air distress frequency.  The Emergency II is the big release from Breitling this year, though they do have some other pieces you’ll want to see, including a gorgeous Transocean Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (I’ll get to that soon).
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