by Kyle Stults on February 19, 2014
This is the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition à Quantième Perpétuel 8 jours SQ, inspired by a historical Grande Complication pocket-watch from 1928. This watch combines the best of enameling, openworking (aka skeletonizing/squelette aka “SQ”), and engraving in addition to the highly complicated Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 876 perpetual calendar movement in skeletonized form.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde is immediately identifiable by its two off-centered dials which form a figure eight; in 2008, Jaquet Droz launched the Grande Seconde SW, a sportier version of the Grande Seconde. This new model being introduced in 2014 is distinguished by an anthracite grey, Côtes de Genève decorated dial. This is not the first time we have seen a dial with Geneva striping from Jaquet Droz (e), but it is less complicated than this Jaquet Droz tourbillon with striped dial, and an all-around good looking watch.
TAG Heuer insider Calibre 11 brings us a first look at the new Carrera Twin-Time. The watch is distinguished by its second time-zone function, marked by the red-arrow hand and 24 hour scale on the outer flange of the dial. This is not a new watch, but rather an upgrade of a long-standing model in the TAG Heuer stable. Check out all the details on the new Twin-Time over at Calibre 11>>>
First Look…Baselworld 2014…
Maurice Lacroix gives its Pontos S chronograph some aggressive styling attributes and a size upgrade, and calls it “Supercharged”. I like it. These two new models in the Pontos range step up 5mm from the Pontos S and the Pontos S Extreme‘s 43mm case. The red detailing with steel case is a familiar aesthetic, but the yellow, paired with a black PVD case, is a new color-set for the Pontos S line. Most striking, though, is the knurled chrono pushers and the bezel edge — a great looking detail element that really defines this watch in my book. Price is TBD.
The PanoMaticInverse, which celebrates its debut at Baselworld 2014, takes Glashütte Original’s PanoInverse XL (introduced in 2008 with manual wind Cal. 66) forward by introducing an automatic movement, the new GO Calibre 91-02. The beauty of this watch is derived from its technical aesthetic and the inverse positioning of the components that are normally found on the back of the watch. The centerpiece is a gorgeous duplex swan-neck fine adjustment sitting above hand-engraved balance cocks, capped off with blued screws and rubies on the rhodium plated three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing — all dial-side. And, in place of the PanoInverse’s power reserve gauge, is the elegant Panorama Date.
by Kyle Stults on February 13, 2014
Last year the family-owned Carl F. Bucherer brand introduced its first tourbillon, a very nice watch in a limited edition of 188 pieces. For 2014, the brand is introducing what looks to be a refresh of its Manero ChronoPerpetual, a perpetual calendar with flyback chronograph function. This watch will be issued as a limited edition of 100 pieces. It features a perpetual calendar date display at 12 o’clock, day of the week at 6 o’clock, month and leap year at 9 o’clock, and moon phase at 3 o’clock The caliber is made by Vaucher manufacture, which does work for a number of higher end brands.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero ChronoPerpetual
limited edition 100
42.5mm rose gold case (14.3mm thick), sapphire case back, automatic mechanical caliber CFB 1904 (Vaucher)
by Kyle Stults on February 13, 2014
In 2014 the Girard-Perregaux’s Vintage 1945 collection will be extended with this beautiful blue-dialed model. The Vintage 1945 collection is inspired by the retro forms of one of its Art Deco style watches from 1945, and is one of four collections the brand currently offers — Hawk, 1966, and Traveller being the other three. It is not uncommon to see line extensions such as this, adding either a new color dial or new case metal to a particular collection — but this certainly is a nice addition to the line!
This platinum beauty from FP Journe, of which only 10 will be made, marks the 10 year anniversary of Journe’s first boutique. You probably recall the Journe Historical Anniversary Tourbillon (40mm rose gold, limited 99 pieces at $99,000 per) that celebrated Journe’s 30th anniversary of watchmaking (if not go check it out now); this watch is the same design, except it has been upgraded in terms of materials. The case, as noted, is platinum; the dial is grained silver, and the (insanely gorgeous) movement is solid rose gold. Each of these 10 pieces will be sold to Journe’s most loyal collectors, as nominated by each of Journe’s 10 boutiques and determined by random drawing.
Did you get the call? If not, well, don’t hold your breath…
Zenith pays tribute to the Wright brothers and their first flight in December 1903 at Kitty Hawk with a watch issued in a 1,903-piece limited edition: the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903. The watch shares the general design of the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef series (“like the “Red Baron” I went hands-on with last year), though here with features such as a 48mm DLC-coated titanium case, a black sandblasted dial, vintage-styled luminous hands and a GMT indicator. It is fitted on a beige suede leather strap.
With SIHH Geneve 2014 behind us, the focus now turns to Baselworld, the world’s largest watch fair (it begins March 27). The preview I have here is of the new Blancpain Villeret, an elegant time+date watch with an eight-day power reserve and a grand feu enamel dial.
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