The Panerai PAM 441 is the strap version of the PAM 438 aka the Tuttonero.  The PAM 441 and the PAM 438 have the same dial as the PAM 359, plus a GMT function (the smaller arrow on the dial).

Panerai (PAM 441) Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica

44mm black ceramic case, manual-wind mechanical Panerai P.9001 calibre

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, 2nd time zone, power reserve indicator on the back, seconds reset, Crystal: Sapphire (2.3 mm)

Venerable German watch manufacture A. Lange & Sohne debuted three new watches for 2012 at the SIHH show in Geneva last week. I showed you the new Lange Datograph Ab/Auf (Power Reserve) piece already, so now let’s look at the new Grande Lange 1. For 2012 A. Lange has retained the key elements of the Grand Lange 1 while at the same time freshening up the overall look. Starting with a a new movement – the Lange Calibre L095.1 — the thickness of the Grande Lange 1 has been reduced to 8mm, vs. 11mm previously; as well, a single, thinner mainspring has replaced a twin barrel configuration. What I like most is that the new dial has a larger date window and no overlap of sub-dials — this gives the watch a superbly clean look. The A. Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1 will be available in yellow (Ref. 117.021) and pink gold (Ref. 117.032) at 31,000 euros (approx. US$39,600) and platinum (Ref. 117.025) for 47,000 euros (approx US$60,000). I am partial to the beautiful pink-gold case.

A. Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1

40.9mm case (8.8mm thick), hand-wound Lange Calibre L095.1 (72 hrs power reserve), “big date”, fitted on croc strap

A. Lange’s even bigger “big date” window:

In watchmaking tradition, “regulator” watches were special pendulum clocks, used by watchmakers in their workshops to set the exact time and therefore to test the precision of smaller watches.  They were also used in science whenever extremely precise time indicators were needed, like in the field of astronomy or nautical navigation.  In addition to sitting on the watchmakers bench, regulator pendulum clocks of this sort also stood in the offices of harbormasters in all of the world’s major ports.

While this is new Montblanc Nautique Regulator is an interesting watch of this type, I find that there is unfortunately too much to interpret on the dial.  The Natique Regulator doesn’t have a regulator dial of the sort that’s frequently used on watches of this type, but instead there are eight different indications (home time, local time, day and night display, chronograph, 30-minute counter, small seconds, and combined power-reserve and winding-zone display).  Compared to what I would consider more traditional Regulators (e.g. Glashutte Original Regulator or the Milos Zetios Regulator), this watch seems as if it would be quite difficult to read at a glance — and thus use in the traditional sense.

This Montblanc Nautique Regulator is a limited edition set of just sixteen pieces – eight sets with red gold wristwatch chronographs and eight more with wristwatch chronographs in white gold cases.  Each set consists of a wristwatch chronograph with regulator dial and two time zones, along with a large navigational clock which, in addition to showing three time zones on its main regulator dial, also includes a world-time indicator.

If you are interested in learning more, there a full press release can be found here at HH Magazine.

I gave you the first look at Cartier’s new grand complication pocket watch almost a month ago.  And just because it looks so good, I’m back bringing you a few new angles and looks at this masterpiece.  In particular you can observe the fine finishing of this watch — the “V” shaped tread around the edge of the case, the solid white gold skeletonized Roman numerals, hand finished with carefully bevelled edges, the contrast of polished and brushed surfaces, and so on.  And don’t forget that the pocket watch includes an obsidian and rock crystal stand, along with a polished white gold chain and fob (also pictured below).

Cartier Pocket Watch  (Ref. 1556213)

59.2mm White Gold Case (Skeletonized), tourbillon, perpetual calendar, monopusher chronograph, 8-day power reserve

Calibre 9436 MC

obsidian and rock crystal stand

Linear Power Reserve…

At SIHH 2012 in Geneva last week, the first wave of new watches for 2012 from many of the world’s leading watch brands were unveiled.  Even though the show is over, I still have several new and exciting watches to share with you, so of course the show here @Perpetuelle goes on!  Have a look at this neat new dive watch from JeanRichard, the Diverscope LPR.   This watch follows the first titanium version of the Diverscope which debuted in 2011.  So what’s interesting about this piece?  Well, as the name says, it is the “LPR” — as in linear power reserve.  Though such a feature is nothing new, JeanRichard has executed the power reserve display in a creative and subtle manner.  Basically, as the mainspring gains tension when the watch is wound, the power reserve meter rises inside the 12, from “E” to “F” (see below).   The water resistance is a respectable depth of 1,000 feet (300 metres).  As with all of their watches, the movement is “in-house”.

JeanRichard Diverscope LPR Dive Watch

43mm steel case (13.4mm thick, polished and satin-finished surfaces), automatic mechanical manufacture movement (caliber JR 1010), opaline black dial with luminous numerals and indexes, internal bi-directional rotating bezel, delivered with two straps — black Kevlar fabric and black rubber (pictured)

Here is a closer look at the “LPR” — linear power reserve:

IWC has dubbed 2012 the “Year of the High Flyers. ” Accordingly, we have seen several changes and additions to their Pilot’s collection, most prominently the the Miramar Top Gun watches (Big Pilot’s watch TOP GUN Miramar and Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar).  In addition, we see the release of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN, shown here.  IWC’s Perpetual Calendar is a perennial favorite amongst fans of the brand, and the TOP GUN models have been in the lineup since 2007, so this is a nice coming together of the two.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN combines the classic instrument look with the sport-inspired design of the TOP GUN line, and the timepiece features a wealth of complex technological features including perpetual calendar with four-digit year display together with date, day and month displays as well as a moon phase display.  All the displays are easily adjusted via the large onion crown.  Certainly this timepiece is one of the most complex pilot’s watches ever built, and I really like the look.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perptual Calendar “Top Gun” (Ref. 502902)

48mm ceramic case, titanium “onion” style crown, automatic mechanical IWC manufacture 51614 calibre, on black soft strap

You’ve seen the Annual Calendar, now here’s the new Perpetual Calendar from Cartier.  More precisely, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar in pink (Ref. W1556217) and white gold (Ref. W1556218).  This piece is a fairly traditional interpretation built around Cartier’s 9422 MC perpetual calendar movement.  I particularly like that the days of the week are indicated by a retrograde hand.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar

40.5mm pink or white gold case (13mm thick), automatic mechanical caliber 9422 MC, alligator strap

The new Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton Ref. 2020057 is not a new model, but it is the first time the skeletonized watch is executed in pink gold.  In pink gold, I find the the overall aesthetic of this watch to be quite powerful.  The Santos-Dumont skeleton model’s most prominent feature is that the movement of the watch is also the dial, with roman numerals sculpted right in!

Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton Red Gold

38.7mm x 47.4mm red gold case (9.4mm thick), manual wind Calibre 9614 MC

Cartier Calibre 9614 MC seen from the back

As I mentioned in my opening preview of the 2012 Vacheron Constantin collection, 2012 is the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first tonneau-shaped watch (1912), and to mark the occasionVacheron Constantin has decided to present the Malte 100^th Anniversary Edition model, a hand-wound watch issued in a 100-piece limited series in a platinum case.  This piece of course is molded in the redesigned Malte tonneau case, with a more curved middle section than the previous model — the side and front-angle photos below give a really good sense of the more dramatic shape of the new Malte case.

Vacheron Constantin Malte 100th Anniversary Edition

38mm x 48.24mm platinum case (12.7 thick), hand wound VC manufacture calibre 4400 (65 hrs power reserve), Geneva Seal, black alligator strap

YEAR OF THE ROYAL OAK

Following my “Audemars Piguet 2012″ overview – here is the new 40th Anniversary limited edition Audemars Piguet Openworked Royal Oak Tourbillon.  Like the Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak 40th Anniversary Limited Edition (non-tourbillon), this watch boasts a platinum case and bracelet.  The dial is slate grey and openworked, or skeletonized.  The applied hour-markers are white gold and the hands are standard Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.  At 4.45mm thick, the AP Calibre 2924 is one of the thinnest tourbillon movements on the market.  A true AP collector’s piece.

Audemars Piguet Openworked Royal Oak Tourbillon 40th Anniversary

41mm platinum case and bracelet, manual wind AP Calibre 2924 with tourbillon and 70 hr power reserve