Although I’ve already showed you several of the new IWC Aquatimers, we haven’t yet look at the Deep Three…and here it is. The Deep Three follows in the footsteps of the GST Deep One (1999) and the Aquatimer Deep Two (IW3457) (2009) as the third generation of IWC’s mechanical depth gauge diver’s watch (pictures below). Like the internal/external bezel system (“IWC SafeDive”) which I discuss here, the depth gauge on the Deep Three has been further developed and improved vs. prior iterations. During a dive, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, while the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained, down to a maximum of 50 meters.
The case is made of titanium (as does the Deep One; the Deep Two has a steel case) with dimensions of 46mm x 16.5mm.
Other features included two-tone luminescent hands, dial and internal bezel; screw in crown; back engraving; IWC quick-change bracelet system. Inside is the automatic mechanical IWC caliber 30120.
IWC Aquatimer Deep Two (2009)
IWC GST Deep One (1999)
IWC Mechanical Depth Gauge
The pressure metering system of the further-developed depth gauge mechanism is housed in a pressure converter on the left-hand side of the case. Through minuscule holes in the cover of the pressure converter, water pressure acts on a spring membrane and pushes a shaft towards the interior of the case. This movement is transmitted through a system of levers and moves the gauge’s two indicators at the centre of the watch. While the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained in the course of the dive, prevented by a pawl from returning to its original position. The maximum depth indicator can be reset to zero by pressing a push-button next to the pressure converter.
More on the IWC 2014 models can be seen here on our brand-by-brand breakdown for SIHH 2014>>>
Perpetuelle presents the new 2014 IWC Aquatimer collection. Click any image below to see full details, images and more on each watch.
The Evolution: A Decade of IWC Aquatimers
The new IWC Aquatimer Automatic (IW 3290-03)
As you know from my last two articles (2014 IWC Aquatimer preview, SIHH 2014: IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 (IW358002)), after only a few years after the IWC Aquatimer collection is again getting a facelift and then some. From a mechanical innovation standpoint there is, most notably, the new IWC SafeDive system with the outer/internal dive bezel system).
The most conspicuous technical modification on the new Aquatimers is the external/internal rotating bezel. The IWC SafeDive system which is actually an external/internal rotating bezel system. It brings the advantages of an internal rotating bezel – protects against external abrasion, dirt, seawater, and so on — with the ease of use of an external rotating bezel. The system is “counterclockwise rotation” only, too (something rarely seen in internal bezels). A sliding system connects the two rings by the rotation of the external bezel being transmitted to the inside of the case and the internal bezel.
IWC last overhauled the Aquatimer collection in 2009. At the time it was a fairly extensive refresh of the line, taking case sizes at 44mm and going from an internal to an external rotating bezel with sapphire inserts. The 2014 collection represents a further evolution of the line, giving both the production and the limited edition models a cleaner look and more subtle colors. There is also a new IWC quick-change strap system — take straps on/off at the push of a button.
For 2014, the Aquatimer Automatic now has a 42mm case, the smallest member of the family. It will be offered in stainless steel case with four references: IW329001 / IW329002 / IW329003 / IW329004. It is a basic 3-handed watch, with a black or silver-plated dial, complemented by a matching black rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet. The Aquatimer Chronograph is also offered in four references for 2014, all stainless steel case: IW376801 / IW376802 / IW376803 / IW376804, with a black or silver-plated dial. The new Aquatimers will again use two colors of Superluminova, with blue for time display and green for dive times.
Now, let’s turn to what I consider to be the “special edition” models. The 50 piece limited edition IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month (Ref. IW379401) (udpate: see it here) is the first IWC diver’s watch equipped with a perpetual calendar. At 49mm, it is also the second-largest wristwatch in IWC’s history, after the Big Pilot’s Watch of 1940.
Following in the footsteps of the GST Deep One of 1999 and the Aquatimer Deep Two of 2009, the IWC Aquatimer Deep Three in titanium (Ref. IW355701) is the third generation of IWC’s diver’s watches to feature a mechanical depth gauge.
Then there is the IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 (Ref. IW358002) as I previewed for you a few days ago. And also the Aquatimer Chronograph Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau.
Last but not least are 1) the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “50 Years Science for Galapagos” (Ref. IW379504), limited to 500 pieces and honoring the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Research Station, 2) the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” (Ref. IW379502), likewise an expression of IWC’s commitment to the threatened archipelago. Both watches are powered by an IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre and have a black rubber coating. And 3) the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” (Ref. IW379503), again a Galapagos-related watch. The Charles Darwin is an exciting watch in that it uses a bronze watch case, another IWC first.
IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” (Ref. IW379502)
rubber clad case
IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” (Ref. IW379503)
bronze case (IWC first)
Click the links above for my more detailed reports on all of these watches.
Rubber B is an independent company which exclusively makes high quality aftermarket rubber straps. Their first product offering was rubber straps with tang buckles for a variety Rolex watches (they are now working on straps precision engineered to even fit with the Rolex Glidelock clasp). And now I see that they offer rubber straps for Panerai as well. Rolex does not offer a rubber strap so there is a clear gap in the market they are filling, though some Panerai’s do come with a manufacture rubber strap (the Luminor Submersible for example) so it is interesting to see that Rubber B sees an opportunity with such a product.
Rubber B uses very high quality materials (vulcanized rubber, Gore Tenara stitching) and craftsmanship so that the strap integrates perfectly the watch. They refer to their production process as “blocked integration” which provides “tight, motionless, rotationless and gap-free mount to the intended watch head” designs.
Definitely a cool product — I will try to get one and do a hands-on review to share with you one of these days. Though $250 a pop (depending on the model) I have to wonder if it is really worth it. No doubt it is truly a luxury accessory as compared to alternatives such as a NATO strap which can be had for $10-$20, but from what I recall the price is comparable to an OEM Panerai rubber strap. Click on over to the Rubber B website (site also available en francais and espanol as well) to learn more.
If you have any experience with Rubber B straps please leave a comment below and let me know what you think.
by Kyle Stults on January 01, 2014
Following up the first look at the 2014 IWC Aquatimers I gave you a couple weeks ago, here is a closer look at one of the new pieces, the IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000. That’s 2000 as in 2000 meters which is the water resistance rating on this particular watch which has a 45mm titanium case. Its titanium case and minimalist design are reminiscent of another iconic though not well known IWC model: the Ocean 2000, created by Porsche Design (Ferdinand A. Porsche) in 1982. Inside is the IWC (in-house) caliber 80110 with the Pellaton winding system.
Lots more looks and details on the click
2014 will be the year of the Aquatimer for Schaffhausen-based IWC. Last year it was the Ingenieur; the year before that was the year of the Pilot watch. Here is a first look at the new Aquatimers which have now surfaced…both chrono- and basic 3-handers. Looks like we also have a return to an inner-rotating bezel. Nice looking straps, too. More details to come…
The Cartier dive watch is here: the Calibre de Cartier diver. Well, almost here — coming in 2014! But here’s your first look at a new piece for Cartier, one of four new pieces I am previewing today. I must say the Calibre de Cartier design works very well as an ISO 6425 diver’s watch. This watch is rated to a robust 1,000 feet water resistance, with unidirectional DLC-coated bezel, lumed indices and small seconds chapter ring. The 42mm steel case has a nice mix of brushed and polished surfaces (The watch will also be offered in a pink gold case). And at 11mm thick, it’s safe to say this watch will retain a bit of elegance as well. Still, I’m not a big fan of the tri-date window. Not a limited edition by any means, the Calibre de Cartier diver will price at 5500 EUR on rubber (about $7,500), 6000 on metal (about $8,250) and will surely be a big seller for Cartier.
Lots more looks, on the click
This new piece recently unveiled by Linde Werdelin features a rose gold case that has been intricately tattooed
engraved with an octopus. Long time Perpetuelle readers and LW fans already know that this is the brand’s second “tattoo” piece (remember the original Oktopus Tattoo?), and like the last one no level of detail has been spared. However, this time the watch also features LW’s in-house moon-phase complication further adding to its appeal (I’ve long been a fan of LW’s special moonphase, as discussed earlier this year); on this particular piece, however, the various moon phases are hand-drawn for a very nice visual effect. It is nice to see Linde Werdelin continue to evolve the Oktopus collection over time, with this latest iteration reflecting a solid combination of ornamental design and a robust craftsmanship. Hands-on pics/pricing/more info below.
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I just got word of this great new addition to Carl F. Bucherer’s lineup: the ScubaTec. As the manufacture celebrates its 125th anniversary this year we have already seen the brand introduce its own in-house tourbillon and now this. This is Bucherer’s first dive watch and I must say it is a great looking a well spec’d 3-hand dive watch. As a brand known largely for its refined, contemporary, and sophisticated dress watches and travel timers, watch enthusiasts will find this to be a a great addition to the CFB family.
This month Alpina officially launched its Extreme Diver 300 Orange range, featuring one automatic and one mid-size quartz model. These watches are a color-based extension of the Extreme Diver range which my colleague James Bond introduced you to early last year. As the name implies, the Extreme Diver 300 Orange is water resistant to a depth of 300m/1000ft. The case is stainless steel, 44mm for the automatic and 38mm for the mid-size quartz.
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by Kyle Stults on July 01, 2013
Here’s an early preview of a watch that Linde Werdelin will officially unveil this coming Thursday, July 4. The new Double Date Titanium Red features bold red detailing on the titanium-colored dial, with an equally bold matching red rubber strap (a black textile strap is also available). It joins the growing Oktopus II family as the third such Okto II to be executed in titanium (the other two Ti models are yellow (I reviewed one this time last year) and blue).
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