by Kyle Stults on July 12, 2010
A nice addition to the Diagono collection…
The new Bulgari Diagono X-Pro is a watch I have been excited to write about since it was first previewed at Baselworld earlier this year. I think that this is really a fantastic looking watch. You may find it interesting to compare this watch to the Bulgari Diagono Caliber 303 Chronograph which was also introduced earlier this year, or even the Diagono collection in general — you will see that the new X-Pro has a somewhat sleeker and sportier look to it along new bezel and rubber strap designs, and as well the “BVLGARI” branding is much less in your face — precisely what I think makes this watch a winner. The movement is a Bvlgari Calibre 312 which is a Valjoux 7750 base customized by La Joux-Perret Manufacture with an additional GMT module. Perhaps the most distinctive element of this watch is the notched bezel which also has some interesting functionality with respect to its ability to measure a third timezone (two others on the main dial of the watch). Not yet sure where it is being priced.
Bvlgari Diagono X-Pro
45mm case in titanium/steel/rubber
hours, minutes, small seconds; central chronograph seconds hand; central GMT hand; notched GMT bezel; date display
The heart of this sophisticated machine is Calibre BVL 312, built on a Valjoux 7750 base and customized for Bulgari by La Joux-Perret Manufacture with an additional GMT module. This high-end self-winding movement featuring integrated construction is fitted with an oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings and also boasting a column wheel. The latter enables the chronograph function to be gently activated via pushers and with great accuracy, while avoiding any jerking or resistance.
Its meticulous overall finishing is enhanced by the finest decorative techniques and surface treatments: the steel parts feature alternating polished, snailed and circular-grained surfaces. Certain load-bearing components are beveled and the screw heads are polished. BVL Calibre 312 beats at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 48-hour power reserve.
Certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), this movement drives indications of the hours and minutes, as well as a central chronograph seconds hands. The measured times are read off on a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, while the running small seconds counter appears at 9 o’clock. This pointer-type display is complemented by a date window at 4.30.
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