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Baselworld 2010: Ladoire RGT Punk Rock
by Kyle Stults on February 23, 2010
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Watch Haute Couture – Tailor Made “Roller Guardian Time”…

The watch you see here is the “RGT Punk Rock” by Ladoire Genève.  It was first shown at the 2010 Geneva Time Exhibition and will be on display at Baselworld 2010.  Many of you will not “get” this watch.  And I don’t mean “get” as in purchase (although you won’t do this either), but as in understand or appreciate the watch.  This because it is unconventional in almost every way – from the case shape (“lazy lucky horseshoe” as I like to call it) to the crown location (8 o’clock) to the way it keeps time (“RGT” – more on this below) to the funky looking strap and more – this watch defies tradition.  Hey, I’m with you – I can’t say that I fully understand or appreciate the watch either, but maybe one day when I get my hands on one I will see the light.  The watch is part of an ultra-exclusive offering – only 3 will be made.  And 2 are already spoken for.  And each one is about $150,000.    So even if you do “get it”, you still probably can’t get it.  Get it?  Check it:

Hand-skeletonized dial, titanium case

ladoire-rgt-punk-rock

Ladoire Genève is a new-to-the-scene (2007) elite watch brand that seems to take pride in the fact that it does not operate within the traditional paradigm of watchmaking.    For example some of the features of the watch I cited above are all very unconventional.  Also, Ladoire focuses on ultra-exclusive production and custom-made pieces utilizing its ”RGT” time system.  RGT stands for “Roller Guardian Time” – the way it works is that the indication of hours, minutes, seconds are all made by revolving discs mounted on ceramic ball bearings.  I think this is one of those things you have to see in person to fully appreciate.

That the brand’s founder and namesake Lionel Ladoire does not adhere to the “traditional” in any aspect of his watches is very clear even on the Company’s website.   Ladoire’s vision is to “create a new dynamic in the watch industry:  the Haute Couture Watch Dynamic.”  Yea, that’s pretty cool if you ask me, and I have no problem referring his watches as “haute couture” – they seem to fit that bill quite nicely.  So if its “watchmaking haute couture” that suits your fancy and you’ve got the cash to back it up, you may want to put a Ladoire on your short list.

Ladoire_RGT_PunkRock_Back

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!

A pretty cool vision if you ask me.  I have no problem seeing his watches as “haute couture.”
The indication of hours, minutes, seconds is made by revolving discs mounted on ceramic ball bearings.  Ladoire calls this unique approach “Roller Guardian Time”, or RGT.
Also atypical about Ladoire watches is the position of the crown at 8 o’clock.  Although I think an argument can be made that the position of a crown on a round case is purely arbitrary.
Last but not least, you will see that the strap of the watch is also atypic

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  • sam

    is this a case of clever design over pretty design (or wearability (do you even wear a £150,000 watch?))?

    • Kyle

      Hmm…I’m not sure what you mean “clever desing” over “pretty design”. I personally would not buy a watch unless I planned to wear it, no matter how much it cost! Thanks for your comment.

  • David

    Is there a competition or something to make the world’s ugliest watch? Why does “innovation” always have to be some formless and inelegant?

    • Kyle

      Thanks for your comment.
      For the record I would like to note that I did not describe this watch as innovative. I don’t think it is particularly innovative, although perhaps it could be considered as such for its unique design. I think a more proper descriptor for this – and all Ladoire watches for that matter – is “unconventional”. As I said few will appreciate this watch, but then again with only 3 to be produced, does it really matter except to those who own it?

      • RichardPi

        Dear Kyle,
        Thanks for your post about this Punk Rock edition . LADOIRE Genève launched this very limited edition in January 2010, during the Geneva Time Exhibition. Lionel Ladoire is hand- skeletonized the dial. It takes a lot of time, therefore this watch is limited to 3 pieces only.
        The 3 pieces have been sold within 1.5 month (Switzerland / Qatar / Japan). As all RGT, one needs to touch it, hold it in hand and wear it on wrist to actually feel it.
        Guy Lucas de Pelouan took the pictures of the RGT Punk Rock in Paris in January 2010. Despite he is a great photographer (Richard Mille, Peter Speake Marin …), the RGT is very difficult to shoot (magnifying effect of the sapphire glass, case having a 3D complex shape, several layers of the dial …).
        Such unique design drives people to hate it or to love it, rarely without appreciation. Quite few people change their appreciation once they hold it in hand. This is an invitation to discover it, Lionel and I will welcome you anytime.

        • Kyle

          Dear Richard
          Thank you for your comments and congratulations on your success. As I said in my article, not all will understand this watch but that is OK because there will only be 3 exclusive owners! Thank you for the invitation to visit and I look forward to doing so one day.
          Kyle

  • http://CHRONOS24.pl LukasD

    I must say, i don’t dig it at all.

    In this segment of independent, crazy watchmaking I would go with HAUTLENCE all the way.

    • Kyle

      Yes, Lukas I have to agree with you on that – I would opt for Hautlence as well.

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