This past Friday I visited my friends at Dorfman, a jeweler located on Newbury Street in Boston, Massachusetts. Dorfman is foremost a jewelry store, but they are an authorized dealer for one of the elite brands from Switzerland: Patek Philippe.

Most recently a watch that was released during Baselworld 2011 arrived at the store and fresh out of the box I got a look at the 5496P-001. It is a men’s grand complication featuring a retrograde date hand, perpetual calender, moon phases, and day, month, leap year in apertures.

Zoom of the dial

The window directly above ‘Patek Philippe’ tells the leap year.

Patek Philippe fitted the 5496P  with 324 S QR caliber. The movement has a 45 hour power reserve and vibrates per hour at 28,800. 361 parts make up the movement.

Unfortunately, my pictures do not do this splendid watch justice. The 5496P is highly attractive and the future owner of this watch will have difficulty keeping his or her eyes off it.

First Look…

Baselworld 2012:  Here’s a first look at the new Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 — video and a few screen shots below, courtesy of Christophe Claret.  Beyond the video, I have no further details at this time.  Given the name “X-TREM-1″, however, might imply that there will be “X-TREM-2″ and perhaps more in the years to come….but this is pure speculation at this point.  The intriguing thing about the X-TREM-1 shown in the video is the use of two spheres which seem to levitate (contained within a tubular structure) and move at the guidance of magnetic force — the magnets slide up and down two rods each — the net result being that they guide the spheres which mark the time.  Of course, Claret is one of the most elite watchmakers on the planet today, so don’t go running around aghast that this piece will likely cost well into the six figures with X-TREM-ely limited production.  Very, very intriguing…stand by for more!  More on the genius that is Christophe Claret, HERE.   See the VIDEO, below the pics:

Christophe Claret X-TREM-1

[technical details unknown at present time]

VIDEO

“Double Date”…

Baselworld 2012:  Despite my love for the Linde Werdelin Spidolite watch (as I reviewed here), the Oktopus line is perhaps my favorite offering from the brand (see Oktopus Photorealistic Moonphase, Oktopus Tatoo), and it looks like the dynamic duo of Morton Linde and Jorn Werdelin have upped the ante once more with this robust looking new diver which will hit the market in 2012.  Details are still scant on this piece, but I was able to grab enough shots from a video the brand produced to offer a worthy first look at the watch. The story of the watch is told quite well in the video by the namesake founders of the brand.  As for me, I would say that the design of the watch looks fantastic.  Both in form (the “Octopus” design on the dial and case back, et al.) and function (the  multi-part case construction is inspired by a diving bell and is designed for optimum corrosion and water resistance), the Linde Werdelin Oktopus II will no doubt be a popular item at next week’s Baselworld show.  Oh–almost forgot–the piece is of course compatible with the “Reef”, Linde Werdelin’s custom designed dive calculator that fits over the watch case for an all-in-one solution.

Price on the Oktopus II – Double Date in titanium and ceramic will retail at CHF 8,800.  Oktopus II – Double Date in titanium, titanium DLC and ceramic with yellow accents in dial will retail at CHF 9,400; Oktopus II – Double Date Rose Gold and titanium will retail at CHF 18,500.  All exclusive of VAT.  Avail. autumn 2012 on LindeWerdelin.com or from any LW authorised retailer in local currency.

Linde Werdelin Oktopus II Dive Watch

46mm multi-metal case (titanium, gold, ceramic) (15.25mm thick), 300 meter water resistance, automatic mechanical Dubois Depraz caliber 14580

date window:

more looks:

VIDEO

Crans-Montana, Switzerland:  Downhill skiing legend Didier Cuche was recently honored by Montres Corum (he is also an Ambassador for the brand) with a limited edition piece bearing his likeness.   This past week, Cuche won the Super-G on his home course as part of the World Cup circuit, his 21st career World Cup win and sixth in super-G.  Following the racing, Cuche and a select group of fans and friends joined Corum CEO Antonio Calce to present Cuche with a vivid Corum Admiral’s Cup Chronograph Centro fitted on a black vulcanized rubber strap with folding clasp.  Just 100 pieces will be produced, sure to be snapped up by Cuche’s most ardent fans.  Corum also put together a great 40-second video featuring Cuche and the watch — don’t miss his signature “propeller kick” trick at the end of the clip!

Corum Admiral’s Cup Didier Cuche Edition Watch

limited edition 100 pieces

44mm case, automatic mechanical movement (COSC), black/gray dial with tapestry of Didier Cuche head

VIDEO

Corum CEO Antonio Calce presents Dider Cuche with his new watch

It’s hard to believe that fifty years have passed since James Bond first stepped onto the big screen in “Dr. No”.   To celebrate the milestone, OMEGA has launched the Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond “50 Years” wristwatch in two sizes (as featured on this blog a few weeks back).  This video presents close-up images of the 41 mm and the 36.35 mm versions detailing some of their special features including, most notably, the rotating cartridge on the caseback.   Also note the diamond set

Later this year, “SKYFALL”, the 23rd film in the franchise will be released starring Daniel Craig as the world’s favorite spy.

Remarkable Art + Time…

You may recall from last year that Vacheron Constantin created a phenomenal piece unique for Only Watch 2011, the M.C. Escher-inspired “Dove” watch.  At SIHH 2012 last month, Vacheron went on to show off 3 more gorgeous new M.C. Escher-inspired watches in the same style — and I’m here with an in-depth look at each.  These pieces are part of Vacheron’s Métiers d’Art collection, a marriage of graphic art and high-end watch decorating techniques such as etching, enameling, crimping and guilloche.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art:  Infinite Universe Series

Dove   |   Fish   |   Starfish

Limited Edition 20 pieces each (unnumbered)

40mm white gold case (8.9mm thick), automatic mechanical manufacture caliber SC 2460, Geneva Seal (meeting the new, stricter criteria to receive such  a seal)

THE FISH

demonstrating techniques of guilloché and cloisonne enameling

THE STARFISH

demonstrating techniques of engraving and champlevé enameling

THE DOVE

demonstrating techniques of engraving, champlevé enameling, tucking and crimping

Breguet recently announced the launch of an iPad application for its new corporate magazine, “Quai de l’Horloge”.   I downloaded it last night to give it a try — and WOW was I impressed.   It is  by far the best iPad app by a watch brand (yes, even IWC’s app, which I find good content, but overall too clever by half).   The best part of the Breguet magazine app is the CONTENT, major kudos to Editor Jeff Kingston on this — I was totally immersed in the great articles on the Breguet Hora Mundi and Breguet’s pioneering work in the use of guilloche.

The magazine is published in 8 languages and gives its readers an insight into the brand’s philosophy, its exceptional heritage, the rich cultural ties to its products, and much, much more.  The app is is very intuitive and easy to use — crisp navigation, rich and detailed high-res photos and meaningful story lines.  Get this app today for excellent insights to one of the world’s most renowned watch brands.  For any watch enthusiast and iPad owner, Breguet’s Quai de l’Horloge app is a must have.

(click through to Apple iTunes page where you can download Breguet’s iPad app)

Sample screen shots, courtesy iTunes

Baselworld 2012:  After the successful launch of the Pacific line and the Lady Collection in recent years, Chronoswiss adds to the most original Chronoswiss line, the traditional Kairos.   This is the new Kairos Chronograph, a magnificent looking chronograph beset with a splendid solid silver guilloché dial.  The short story on this piece recalls the 1990s, when Chronoswiss had already launched a model by this name with an off-centered display at the 3 o’clock position.  The Kairos Chronograph you see here is inspired by the design language of its predecessor, but is outfitted with a central display and a day/date window at the 3 o’clock position.  As well, the case is upsized to 42mm and will be available in stainless steel (shown below), red gold (Ref CH 7541), or DLC-coated steel (Ref. CH 7545).  A beautiful and classically styled watch, what’s not to love?

Chronoswiss Kairos Chronograph

42mm steel case (14.75mm thick), automatic mechanical chronograph movement (skeletonized and rhodium-plated rotor, bridges with côtes de Genève), “onion” crown,

Look at the wave guilloché work on the solid sterling silver dial!!

Rolex Madman Philipp Stahl (I say this in an endearing way) recently acquired a rare and highly desirous Rolex Ref. 6538.  This particular Rolex Submariner Ref.  6838 is known in Rolex parlance as a “Big Crown”, but even more specifically it is a 4-line Big Crown, a particularly rare find.  The “4-line” is a reference to the number of lines of text on the lower part of the dial.   I personally have trouble getting excited about Rolex collecting, but believe me it is one of the most popular hobbies for many a deep-pocketed man around the world.

Philipp Stahl says “…this is the ultimate Submariner to me, the rarest of them all, the earliest known ref 6538 in a bizarre 4 line version one could only dream of. It’s having the best details we collectors are looking for in the most sought after Rolex Submariner; the Big Crown. Besides the mint condition, it shows us the adorable Explorer 3-6-9 on it’s dial, then added on top of it’s laquer the unique Red Depth 200 /660 print and last but not least, making it unique in it’s condition, the Officially Certified Chronometer print. That makes a total of 3 color print in 4 lines on a ref 6538 with Explorer dial, that’s just unbelievable!!”

I’ve posted a couple pics, and you can see more pics over at Philipp’s blog, Rolex Passion Report >>>

Charity…

February 29, 2012, the “24 Ore Group” together with Antiquorum Auctioneers and the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta in Belgrade will host a charity watch auction entitled, “24 Hours for Help Them” (nice grammar, by the way) in Milan.   All proceeds raised from this unique charity auction will be used to build schools for the children of Serbia, which is to be applauded.  While this auction certainly does not have the high profile of something like “Only Watch“, participation is broad with 25 leading brands contributing a watch to auction for charity, so hopefully they can raise some good money.  Participating brands include: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Bell & Ross, Breitling, Cartier, Chronoswiss, Corum, De Grisogono, Eberhard, Erwin Sattler, Hamilton, Hermès, Hublot, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger LeCoultre, Longines, Louis Vuitton, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Porsche Design, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, TAG Heuer.  Browsing through the catalog I thought I would post a few of the pieces that caught my eye.  Thanks to Antiquorum, 24 Ore Group, and the Embassy of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta in Belgrade for hosting the auction.  You can browse the full catalog HERE.

Bell & Ross BR 03 for Help Them Auction

Ref. BR 03-94-S-88888

Hamilton, “Jazzmaster Spirit of Liberty , Andrew Hamilton, Pennsylvania, Lancaster 1892”

Ref. H32.566.791. Made in a limited edition of 1892 examples in 2011

 Richard Mille “RM016”

Unique Piece Ref. RM016 AH WG/111

Corum Admiral’s Cup GMT 44

Ref. 01.005