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Closer Look: Panerai PAM 441 Ceramic
by Kyle Stults on January 29, 2012
Pinit

The Panerai PAM 441 is the strap version of the PAM 438 aka the Tuttonero.  The PAM 441 and the PAM 438 have the same dial as the PAM 359, plus a GMT function (the smaller arrow on the dial).

Panerai (PAM 441) Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica

44mm black ceramic case, manual-wind mechanical Panerai P.9001 calibre

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, 2nd time zone, power reserve indicator on the back, seconds reset, Crystal: Sapphire (2.3 mm)

2012: A. Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1
by Kyle Stults on January 27, 2012
Pinit

Venerable German watch manufacture A. Lange & Sohne debuted three new watches for 2012 at the SIHH show in Geneva last week. I showed you the new Lange Datograph Ab/Auf (Power Reserve) piece already, so now let’s look at the new Grande Lange 1. For 2012 A. Lange has retained the key elements of the Grand Lange 1 while at the same time freshening up the overall look. Starting with a a new movement – the Lange Calibre L095.1 — the thickness of the Grande Lange 1 has been reduced to 8mm, vs. 11mm previously; as well, a single, thinner mainspring has replaced a twin barrel configuration. What I like most is that the new dial has a larger date window and no overlap of sub-dials — this gives the watch a superbly clean look. The A. Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1 will be available in yellow (Ref. 117.021) and pink gold (Ref. 117.032) at 31,000 euros (approx. US$39,600) and platinum (Ref. 117.025) for 47,000 euros (approx US$60,000). I am partial to the beautiful pink-gold case.

A. Lange & Sohne Grande Lange 1

40.9mm case (8.8mm thick), hand-wound Lange Calibre L095.1 (72 hrs power reserve), “big date”, fitted on croc strap

A. Lange’s even bigger “big date” window:

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 Régulateur Nautique Timepiece Set
by Kyle Stults on January 27, 2012
Pinit

In watchmaking tradition, “regulator” watches were special pendulum clocks, used by watchmakers in their workshops to set the exact time and therefore to test the precision of smaller watches.  They were also used in science whenever extremely precise time indicators were needed, like in the field of astronomy or nautical navigation.  In addition to sitting on the watchmakers bench, regulator pendulum clocks of this sort also stood in the offices of harbormasters in all of the world’s major ports.

While this is new Montblanc Nautique Regulator is an interesting watch of this type, I find that there is unfortunately too much to interpret on the dial.  The Natique Regulator doesn’t have a regulator dial of the sort that’s frequently used on watches of this type, but instead there are eight different indications (home time, local time, day and night display, chronograph, 30-minute counter, small seconds, and combined power-reserve and winding-zone display).  Compared to what I would consider more traditional Regulators (e.g. Glashutte Original Regulator or the Milos Zetios Regulator), this watch seems as if it would be quite difficult to read at a glance — and thus use in the traditional sense.

This Montblanc Nautique Regulator is a limited edition set of just sixteen pieces – eight sets with red gold wristwatch chronographs and eight more with wristwatch chronographs in white gold cases.  Each set consists of a wristwatch chronograph with regulator dial and two time zones, along with a large navigational clock which, in addition to showing three time zones on its main regulator dial, also includes a world-time indicator.

If you are interested in learning more, there a full press release can be found here at HH Magazine.

Closer Look: Cartier Pocket Watch (Ref. 1556213)
by Kyle Stults on January 26, 2012
Pinit

I gave you the first look at Cartier’s new grand complication pocket watch almost a month ago.  And just because it looks so good, I’m back bringing you a few new angles and looks at this masterpiece.  In particular you can observe the fine finishing of this watch — the “V” shaped tread around the edge of the case, the solid white gold skeletonized Roman numerals, hand finished with carefully bevelled edges, the contrast of polished and brushed surfaces, and so on.  And don’t forget that the pocket watch includes an obsidian and rock crystal stand, along with a polished white gold chain and fob (also pictured below).

Cartier Pocket Watch  (Ref. 1556213)

59.2mm White Gold Case (Skeletonized), tourbillon, perpetual calendar, monopusher chronograph, 8-day power reserve

Calibre 9436 MC

obsidian and rock crystal stand