Maurice Lacroix is once again the exclusive watchmaking sponsor of the Zurich Film Festival.  Maurice Lacroix brand ambassador and artist Sir Bob Geldof will present the Audience Award on the closing night to the director of the winning film chosen by the festival audience.   The prize is nice — of the 36 special limited-edition timepieces designed by Maurice Lacroix for the Festival.  The special limited edition (36 timepieces) is based on the Pontos chronograph (a design I really like) and has a hand-decorated automatic movement, 30 minute and 12 hour counters, and a date display.

If you love this watch but not a winners at the film festival, don’t worry because ten of these timepieces are being made available exclusively at Kurz Schmuck und Uhren in Zurich, at a price of 3200 CHF.

About the Zurich Film Festival

The 6th Zurich Film Festival takes place this year from 23rd September to 3rd October. Over 11 days, spectators can see over 70 Swiss, European or world premieres. The programme ranges from Hollywood films to extravagant art-house cinema. Along with premiere parties, panel discussions and Zurich Master Class workshops, personal meetings with actors and directors count among the various visitor highlights at the festival. In 2005, the two current co-directors, Nadja Schildknecht and Karl Spoerri, founded Spoundation Motion Picture GmbH, promoted by the Zurich Film Festival. Last year, over 37,000 film enthusiasts attended the Zurich Film Festival.

Grande Complication…

After two strong years of showing new and innovative timepieces at the annual SIHH in Geneva, there is little question that Cartier has re-identified itself as a real player in the high-end watch segment.  From the impressive Cartier Caliber One collection (with my further assessment here) to the Cartier ID One concept watch to this — a 30 piece limited, numbered Grande Complication — Cartier’s renewed horological credentials are without question.

Cartier Rotonde Grande Complication Skeleton (Ref W1580017)

Skeleton  movement with tourbillon, single push-piece chronograph and
perpetual calendar complications.

43.5mm platinum case (16.25mm thick), manual winding manufacture Caliber 9362 MC (8 days power reserve)

Close up –

comes on alligator strap with double adjustable deployant buckle in platinum.

No end in sight…

From high atop my perch here in the United States, it is difficult to fully appreciate the sheer size and ambition the Chinese market.  So let’s ask a man who knows a thing or two about building global luxury watch brands, Hublot’s Jean-Claude Biver:

“It’s such a huge country that I see no limit for luxury brands,” said 62-year-old Biver. “I might die in 30 years, so I see no limit. If I was now 10 years old, and I had the expectation to live to 100, eventually I could see a limit in 60 years. But for my lifetime, no limit.”

Not all will share Biver’s effusiveness, but rest assured, luxury brands who know what they are doing have been investing in this market for years now.

Full article is at Bloomberg.com.  Hat tip: L2.

Photo:  A Chinese bamboo book  – Sun Tzu’s The Art of War

In speaking of the new Corum Admiral’s Cup Deep Hull 48, my watch friend TLex (OceanicTime) says “Forget the Bubble Diver, now CORUM are in the business of making professional dive watches.”   Can’t say I disagree with him.  Not only delivering high performance pieces, but Corum is delivering pieces that look good (check out their best recent releases here).  This new Corum Admiral’s Cup Chronograph 44 Centro Mono-pusher continues the streak with this cool mono-pusher chronograph.  While not necessarily a hard-core dive watch, the design is solid and the mono-pusher functionality is not something you see every day.  Also I like the “Geneva striped” inner dial.  How about you?  Like it?

Admiral’s Cup Chronograph 44 Centro Mono-Pusher

Limited Edition to 555 pieces (Ref No: 960.101.94/F371 AN12)

44mm titanium case with black PVD treatment, water resistant 100 meters, rubberized bezel, automatic movement, black dial with Geneva striping, small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph function (start, stop, reset) operated by one lever-pusher at 2 o’clock, luminous hands/markers (the 60 min. counter is in red Superluminova), comes on rubber strap with matching titanium clasp

Ulysse Nardin is again (2nd year) the official sponsor of the 2010 Monaco Yacht Show, one of UN Chief Rolf Schnyder’s favorite soirees.  This year is the 20^th anniversary of the superyacht show (there’s still time!  September 22-25 at Port Hercules) and so UN decided to put out a limited edition “Monaco” watch based on its Marine collection.

Wide angle view of the 2009 Monaco Yacht Show

At first glance of the images I was a little disappointed in this watch.  Yes, it is a limited and individually numbered series (better than I can seem to say for some of IWC’s LE’s these days), but is this just another color change?  Well, kinda sorta but not exactly.  UN did a bit more — the case is specially treated and coated in vulcanized rubber.  Interesting, but definitely have to see this one in person to get a feel for it, though.  I wonder how something like this would hold up to nicks/dings/bumps that might be encountered while out on the high seas.  UN is not the first to rubberize their cases (Corum and others, if I recall, have similar watches).  Even with this “special” case, the watch really isn’t much more exciting that other Ulysse Nardin Marine watches.  What do you think of it?

Ulysse Nardin Monaco Marine Diver Limited Edition 2010

45.8mm rubberized case, rubber strap with black ceramic folding clasp

specially marked rotor (*yawn*)

UN Chief Rolf Schnyder hanging with HRH Prince Albert II

Mission Accomplished…

Breitling introduces a new limited edition Blackbird chronograph featuring high contrast red accents – aka the Breitling Blackbird Red Strike.  Even the date is in red and it looks awesome!  The overall contrast of black and red is spectacular!  The watch is available on polished or satin-finished metal.  Production is limited (by Breitling’s standards) to 2,000 pieces.  Everything to like, nothing to hate about this one (even moreso than the Omega Speedy I profiled below) — a must own for any die-hard Breitling fan!

Breitling Blackbird Red Strike Limited Edition

43.7mm stainless steel case, rotating bezel with its 360° graduated scale, “Blackbird special” pilot bracelet, water-resistant 300 meters (1,000 ft), powered by COSC automatic Caliber 4

close up

Modern makeover for the Speedy…

“What a cool looking watch.”  That’s what I first thought of this new Omega Speedy.  I mean, wow — what an upgrade for the iconic Omega model.  With thoroughbred heritage and all the right little design touches, this new Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow gets two big thumbs up from me!  Let me count the ways I like this watch:  1) the black, Geneva-striped dial (it comes in silver, too), 2) the red-tipped chronograph counters and seconds hand, and last but certainly not least 3) the honeycombed chronograph subdials.  On top of all this it is powered by an Omega Co-Axial Caliber 3313 movement.  And I like that Omega priced it proudly — price is near $6,000 on the gator strap, add $100 for the bracelet version.

Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Co-Axial

44.3mm steel case, Omega co-axial caliber 3313 chronograph movement (COSC-certified) via sapphire crystal caseback; comes on a black alligator strap or bracelet

check out honeycomb!  and the red-tipped chrono hands!

here it is on a bracelet

and here’s a nice “theme-shot”

Richard Mille Wristwatch Wins Its 3rd Major…

The winningest watch….ever?

The birth of a $525,000 ultra-light Richard Mille wristwatch was announced to the world on April 2, 2010.  Since then, this young rising superstar known simply as “the Watch” has won 3 majors — The French Open, Wimbeldon, and most recently the U.S. Open.  It is worth noting that, until the Watch ticked quietly onto the court, the U.S Open had proven elusive for young tennis superstar Rafael Nadal (better known as “the Watch’s loyal companion”).

Already the winningest watch in history (virtually all other watches are afraid to even step onto the court for match play), I boldly predict here and now that Rafael Nadal’s Richard Mille watch could become the most successful watch in the history of the sport.  In less than 1 year, the Watch already has 3 majors under its belt high-tech rubber strap and there seems to be no intention of stopping now.

In related news, the Watch was quick to thank Rafael Nadal for his continued contributions to the Watch’s winning streak at a recent press conference.

The Watch Wins the U.S. Open – August 30, 2010

© Ella Ling

The Watch Wins Wimbeldon 2010 – June 21, 2010

The Watch Wins the French Open – May 23, 2010

© Ella Ling

As a huge fan of the Breguet Type XX, XXI and  Type XII watches (ann’d earlier this year), this new limited edition Breguet Type XX Aéronavale watch is quite exciting to me.  The watch pays tribute to the original reason for the Breguet Type XX — the French Fleet Air Arm aka Aéronavale (the equivalent of the U.S. Naval air fleet), first ordered the Breguet Type XX chronograph in 1958 in a series of 500 numbered from 1 to 500.  The now collectible Type XX’s were equipped with the “flyback” function (as all the Type XX watches), and identifiable by the characteristic caseback engraving “BREGUET MARINE NATIONALE AERONAUTIQUE NAVALE ”.

In 2010, Aéronavale is celebrating its hundredth anniversary.   To honour the 100th anniversary of the Aéronavale Breguet is issuing this special Type XX in a limited, numbered edition of 1,000.  Limited, numbered series such as this are a rarity for Breguet – so as you might have guessed there is a special kinship between Breguet and Aéronavale that makes this watch possible.  Indeed, brand namesake A.-L. Breguet himself was appointed official watchamker to the French Royal Navy way back in 1815.  And I also surmise that the late Nicolas Hayek himself was behind this project at some point.

Breguet Type XX Aéronavale 2010 (Ref. 3803)

Limited, Numbered Edition of 1,000 – Price: $9,200 (surprisingly reasonable)

39mm steel case, black lacquered rotating bezel with raised numerals, automatic flyback chronograph movement Breguet caliber 581, calfskin leather strap, special presentation box

specially marked caseback

However, under no circumstances would I buy this watch.  This is simply because, as an American, the tribute to French Naval forces has absolutely no sentimental meaning to me.  Enjoy it, France!

Personification of the Mediterranean Sea…

Debut coverage of Speake-Marin here on First In Watches. I wonder what took me so long.  As if the man’s mark upon Harry Winston’s Excenter Tourbillon (2006). MB&F’s Horological Machine No.1 (2008) and the Chapter One and Chapter Two for Maîtres du Temps (2008 and 2009) were not enough for me.  His namesake watches are so powerful, so unique it’s just awesome.  But honestly I feel I have much to learn about Peter Speake-Marin and his work in order to fully grasp the wholesomeness of it all.  But this is for another day…

Speake-Marin’s new Marin 2 “Thalassa” is an absolute beauty and the fact that he is only making 30 of them is also a thing of beauty.  How about the blued-steel partial-dial — I’m sure you catch that in the right light and it really  gleams.  This watch conveys a style all its own, what else to say.  For thoughts deeper than mine, The Watch Lounge’s Ian Ellery has a good take on the Marin 2 Thalassa that I recommend (please do click through).

Speake-Marin Marin 2 Thalassa

42mm white gold signature “Piccadilly” style case, manufacture caliber SM-2

And the manual wind movement with its gothic curves…its German-silver bridges…it can be ogled over for hours.

And he speaks wisdom, does Peter Speake‐Marin:

“I believe there are very few contemporary watchmakers and brands that have created an original style and adhered to an underlying  philosophy of constant improvement, longevity, beauty and quality of product that will live beyond their own time. My goal is that in years to come I will be viewed as one of them.”

Peter Speake‐Marin ‐ Biography
A native Englishman, Peter Speake‐Marin originally had the intention of making jewelry, but found himself seduced by the art and mechanics of watchmaking. He began his horological journey at London’s Hackney Technical College (1985) and then continued his education at WOSTEP, the prestigious Swiss watchmaking school.

Returning to England, Peter worked for a number of different companies around the UK before accepting an offer to head the prestigious antique watch section at Somlo Antiques. At their store in the Piccadilly Arcade, he had the privilege to restore timepieces by great masters and houses, including Dent, Frodsham, Nielson, Breguet and Patek Philippe. Working on these horological treasures taught him how past masters worked and fuelled his desire to improve his skills and increase his knowledge even further.

Peter moved back to Switzerland in 1996 where he was recruited by the illustrious manufacture Renaud & Papi (now Audemars Piguet Renaud &Papi) to develop high complications. During this time, he began acquiring his own machinery and constructed by hand a tourbillon pocket watch with two power trains. This timepiece became the Foundation Watch for his own independent atelier, established in 2000 in the picturesque village of Rolle, between Geneva and Lausanne.

The Speake‐Marin case design was called “The Piccadilly” because, as Peter explains, “The time I spent in Piccadilly remains the most influential period of my working career.” The experience he gained there allowed him to discover the wide variety of methods used by watchmakers over the centuries, the best of which Peter Speake‐Marin brings to his own designs.

Others have frequently sought Peter for his talent and innovative ideas. Collaborations include: 2006 Harry Winston’s stunning Excenter Tourbillon; 2008 MB&F’s Horological Machine No.1; 2008 one of the three Masters developing Chapter One for Maîtres du Temps and Chapter Two in 2009.

With all his creations, Peter Speake‐Marin pays homage to the horological tradition and its valuable lessons, while at the same time mining the rich possibilities available in the present day. “The goal is not just to manufacture a product that sells well today,” he says. “True value will come from its durability over time.”