The Zegna family and the Macaluso family – A Beautiful Parntership for a Watch

The Ermenegildo Zegna Centennial Limited Edition Watch, as manufactured by Girard-Perregaux

To celebrate its 100th anniversary, the prestigious Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna is launching a limited edition watch in partnership with another prestigious brand, Girard-Perregaux.  What can I say except that this collaboration yielded a beautiful outcome,as you can see below.  And here’s an interesting fact you may not have known:  Angelo Zegna, the father of the founder Ermenegildo, was a watchmaker by trade.  In keeping with Zegna’s Centennial celebration, only 100 pieces will be made.  The watch has a rose gold case and is 40mm in diameter, with date, small seconds, and month functions.  The overall design appears to be out of GP’s “1966″ collection, in fact it is very similar though not quite as complicated as GP’s 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time watch (ref: 49538-52-131-BK6A ).

Quite interesting to see Girard-Perregaux completely relinquish the dial to the Ermenegildo Zegna name, though I think that whe watch looks great with the Ermenegildo Zegna logo on it.  I don’t think this could have turned out much better as it seems to be a perfect representation of my perception of both brands – timeless, luxurious, high quality.  Now, where to get one?  The watch is to be available exclusively in the Top 20 Ermenegildo Zegna flagship stores worldwide.

Note the “EZ” etched crown (below)

Technical specifications

Reference: 49537

Case: Pink gold case

Diameter: 40 mm,  Height: 10.74 mm

Sapphire case-back adorned with the Ermenegildo Zegna centenary logo

Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux 3300-0042 automatic mechanical movement

Functions: Hour, minute, small second, annual calendar

Power reserve: minimum 46 hours

Alligator strap with clasp buckle adorned with the Ermenegildo Zegna logo

Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces

Breitling announced today the latest accessory for their Aeromarine line of Colt GMT+ watches.  Breitling fans will now have the option of a new integrated high quality rubber strap, which appears to have the same end link design as their popular Professional II bracelet.  Continuing the ongoing trend of rubber straps being married to luxury watches, Breitling has added yet another fully adjustable rubber bracelet to their line of rubber strap choices.  The strap is locked onto your wrist with a push button clasp, and also has an extension piece for rapid adjustment.

Introduced in 2009,  the Colt GMT+ is a 41.3 mm diameter watch containing a Breitling Caliber 32 COSC-certified movement (Base: ETA 2893-2) with GMT and date functions.  The watch has a very bold, modern dial that is available in a variety of colors in Breitling’s lineup – Volcano black, Air Force blue, Tungsten gray and Stratus silver.  It’s solid contruction, sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, uni-directional bezel, and 500 meter water resistance makes this piece quite the respectable diver as well.

I would presume that the option to buy one of the new rubber straps separately is not far down the road but for now it looks as though they are promoting it as a new version of the GMT+.  There has been no announcement if this style of integrated strap will become an option for other models, but if it becomes popular I would imagine they would make it available.

Breitling has yet to really show off a clear photo specifically showing the new strap will look like on the GMT+ but you can get a fair idea from some of the pics below:

Yawn…..

Here’s the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore New York 57th Street special edition that some have been waiting for.  Obviously this watch is to commemorate, and will be exclusively available at, AP’s recently opened New York flagship store that was opened late 2009. 

While some will clamor to get this watch, well as for me…..what can I say – I’m less than impressed.  What’s up with that color scheme? The stitching on the strap doesn’t even appear to match the “peachy” looking color on the dial.  I guess I am just getting tired….yawn….with AP’s “SKU proliferation” (c’mon let’s face it – Audemars Piguet has way, way too many variations on its famous Royal Oak Offshore line).  Do we really need a Montauk Highway ROO and a 57th Street ROO?  I’m not even going to comment on the diamond bezeled version.

Maybe I’ll post some more details / specs later, but for now here’s the watch (and a nice exterior pic of AP’s 57th St Boutique):

Night View of the Entrance to the Audemars Piguet Boutique – 65 East 57th Street, New York, NY

The New Urwerk UR-203

Urwerk is known to produce complicated pieces with interesting takes on the ways we tell time.  Since the introduction of their UR-103 collection Urwerk has used a method of satellite discs to display the hour and minutes.  Expanding on that idea, and using a design they first introduced in the Harry Winston Opus V, Felix Baumgartner (co-founder and master watchmaker) and Martin Frei (co-founder and chief designer) unveiled the 200 collection which uses a series of turning cubes on a rotating carousel to show the hour and telescoping hands that emerge from those cubes to display the minutes as they passed by.  Since their introduction, the team at Urwerk have been modifying those wildly popular collections offering new variations to would be buyers.

In late January, during a special introduction event in Geneva, Urwerk took their next step while proudly unveiling the UR-203.  At first glance the UR-203 looks somewhat similar to its brother, the 202;  sporting the same aggressively designed geometric case and similar rotating carousel with flipping display cubes.  Upon closer inspection you see that Felix and Martin spent some time stripping down the design to its bare minimum.  Skeletonizing the carousel and using an ARCAP P40 stable non-ferrous and non-magnetic alloy, not only giving the observer an inside look of how the display mechanism operates but also reducing the weight of the carriage by 65%; which now weighs a mere 3.57 grams.

Urwerk also introduced two new indicators on the dial that appear to be a first for any brand.  Tucked away in the corners under the crystal are the “Oil Change” and “150 Years Horological Odometer” displays.  The oil change indicator slowly moves along eventually informing its wearer that the movement needs to be serviced, which is every three years per the manufacturer’s recommendations.  On the opposite side the “odometer” displays how long the movement has been operating, with an ultimate display of 150 years.  With obvious inspiration from an automobile, some could see these features as something of an unneeded gimmick, but they fit well enough into the dial design that I don’t think they distract from the functionality, or overall style of the watch.

Regarding the development of the UR-203 Felix Baumgartner explains “This UR-203 is a wild idea of Martin Frei“, he continues. “Martin imagined a stripped down model distilled to its pure essence. We had to start again at the beginning to develop this model, we sat down at the drawing board and completely reconsidered the satellite module. The horological challenge with this complication was to develop a complex mechanism with the minimum of components to ensure its reliability and longevity.”

Those familiar with the UR-202 will recognize the automatic movement that uses mini turbines to regulate its winding in the new 203, but it has been tweaked a bit hence what powers the UR-203 is a new Caliber, the UR 7.03.   The UR-203 will have a very limited production run of only 20 pieces all in a black PE-CVD coated platinum case micro-sanded with a titanium back plate.

This one is sure to draw some attention at the up and coming 2010 watch fairs.

Project Z6 In 2010!

In 2004, Harry Winston Project Z was developed to create original and limited edition watches which would bridge heritage and modernity, high technological innovation and fine watch making tradition.  Project Z watches – actually part of Harry Winston’s Ocean collection – represent a subtle blend of sport and high-tech, and utilizes a unique metal alloy called Zalium – a Harry Winston exclusive and watchmaking first (more about Zalium below the jump).

Until now there have been 5 Project Z watches, and now we have Project Z6 – with a hand-wound, 24-hour alarm clock movement developed specially for Project Z6 and exclusive to Harry Winston.  Project Z6 will comprise of just 350 pieces – 250 with anthracite dial and 50 with silver dial (exclusively available at Harry Winston salons).  The watch has a 44mm Zalium case set on on a rubber strap, thus maintaining the sportiness of the watch.  You will also see another design feature unique to the Project Z watches – a small shuriken shaped disk whcih on the Z6 indicates the seconds rotation.   A shuriken is the traditional ninja throwing star and in the Projedt Z series is intended to underscore the series’ cutting-edge sports design.  You may also notice the “W” shape of the crown guard – another signature HW design element.  Check it:

Now, about Zalium because I know you are all curious.  Zalium was developed by Ronald Winston, a noted chemical engineer, and also a man who like his father – Mr. Harr Winston himself – “knew how to distinguish a great diamond from a good one” (source:  Harry Winston).  Zalium, harder than titanium, is a zirconium-based alloy.  Zirconium is used in aeronautical engineering (jet and rocket engines) as well as for surgical implants and instruments.  As Zalium, (a registered trademark of Harry Winston), its hypo-allergenic and corrosive resistant properties allow for the creation of watches with ultimate durability and design.   Ronald Winston name Zalium for the zirconium and allium lily.

The Harry Winston Project Z6 Watch Movement (hand wound)

Here are some more details on the watch, per Harry Winston Timepieces:

Producing a crisp sound, the alarm clock is set with the crown and activated by using a repeater-style trigger positioned on the case at 4 o’clock. Designed to be seen — not only heard — a visible hammer is fixed to the case to show the alarm ringing and enhance exterior sound transmission. The monobloc bell is crafted from one rectangular piece, resulting in better sound amplification. When the movement is fully wound, the alarm will last approximately 20 seconds. Further emphasizing the practical functionality, the double barrels guarantee a 72-hour power reserve and ensure the complication will not disrupt the movement timekeeping. The two barrels can be wound at the same time, for added convenience. The excentered dial features two overlapping disks displaying the primary time and the alarm clock, each with separate day and night indicators. Both hour/minute time and alarm time are conveniently set by using the crown, and can be wound clockwise or anticlockwise. Composed of 18 layered parts, the complex dial uses five different finishes to create a highly dimensional design: Côtes de Genève, silver vertically brushed, slated brushed, blued steel and satin finished.

An Exclusive Look at an Exclusive Event – It’s Breguet, Breguet, Breguet!

I thought you might enjoy this report of a very exclusive and intimate evening with Breguet that was posted on the World Watch Forum by Mr. James Bond.  Bond, James Bond, is Perpetuelle.com’s Forum Moderator and watch enthusiast extraordinaire.   If you are a regular visitor of our forum, you will most certainly know James for his uncanny ability to leave no inquiry or post untouched (ie all who post will get a reply from James) – he is the consummate watch forum gentleman.

James has built some fantastic relationships over the couple years that I have had the privilege of knowing and working with him, and as a result of these relationships, well……we all get to see some very exclusive, very expensive watches in venues and events that most can only dream of getting an invitation to.  In this particular case, James takes us behind the scenes of a private event hosted by Montres Breguet and Dorfman, one of the most exclusive watch and jewelery stores in Boston.  If you are not familiar with Dorfman of Boston, click here to check out the Dorfman’s website here and you’ll see what I mean by exclusive. They only carry Patek Philippe, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and of course Breguet.  Nothing but the absolute best at Dorfman – their motto is “Like No Other”.  Indeed.  Let’s just say that’s my kind of place.  If you are ever in Boston, drop by their luxurious 24 Newbury Street location and you won’t be disappointed.

And now to my point – to see more pictures of this special Breguet event, including some nice pics of many many many fine Breguet watches, CLICK HERE to see James Bond’s report.  There is even a video embedded in the report that James managed to shoot. Thanks James and next time won’t you take me with you?!?

The Breguet Classique Grande Complication – a Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

The Senator Sixties Gets A Date Function, But Does it Fit?

This is a new model in renowned German watch manufacture Glashütte Orignal – the Senator Sixties Panorama Date.  It is one of 2 Baselworld 2010 pre-releases from Glashütte Original (I wrote about the PanoMaticLunar XL earlier today, which you can see here).  The Senator Sixties collection was first launched in 2007, and I’ve always liked the 1960′s-insipred design elements of this watch, specifically the stylized “3″ “6″ “9″ and “12″ numerals that mark the hours and the domed sapphire crystal.  Last year, GO introduced this model in a square case with chrongraph, also a neat design. 

This year, however, I think something is off with the new design.  It is the new function – the “Panorama Date” – that they added onto the dial, and unfortunately, something just doesn’t look right about this design combination.  Odd as it may sound, I think that the font type on the panorama date is completely inconsistent with the rest of the watch.  I don’t like it.  Being a big Glashütte Original fan (and owner of one of their watches myself), I’m hoping they will reconsider this design with another font style, because this one just does not seem to fit and I don’t see this watch being a big hit in its current form.  What do you think?

 Glashütte Original Caliber 39-47 – automatic movement with 21k gold oscillation weight

Reference 39-47-01-02-04 with silver dial (above)

with 42mm stainless steel case on both

Reference 39-47-0302-04 with black dial  (below)

On a related note, if you want to see the other Glashütte Original watches when they are announced at Baselworld 2010, stay tuned to Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 forum (click here to view).

Glashütte Original Checks In With A Baselworld 2010 Preview

This is the first of 2 new watches coming in 2010 from one of my favorite brands, German manufacture Glashütte Original (GO) – the PanoMaticLunar XL.  “Less is more” and “the quintessential understatement” GO says of this watch – which I’m not sure I can agree with as it looks to me like a fairly loaded dial.  You want to make an understatment get yourself one of those boring “understated” Piaget’s or Jaeger-LeCoultre master thins.  This watch is more of an attention-getter, in my humble opinion.

The watch is 42mm diameter case in stainless steel with grey dial.  The case is primarily polished with some satin-finish touches.  Sapphire crystal on bottom so you can see all the fine German handiwork which in this case happens to be a GO Caliber 90-02.  Function-wise, you get GO’s masterfully executed “panorama” date (ie big date – and yes it is substantially larger and easier to read than many other brands), moon phase, and the usual time keeping functions.  All neatly arranged on the dial – although if you don’t like the decentralized dial concept this will not be one for you.  Comes on a cool looking gray alligator strap.  Price?  I’d say somewhere around $20,000 but no official word yet.

On a separate note, GO really has it together when it comes to their blogger and Internet outreach – “new media” as they call us and in fact they have a dedicated role to this effect.  They always provide pre-sized images and very concise press releases that get right to the point.  And for that I sincerely thank them.

This in contrast to other brands that provide very un-user frienly FTP file links to enormous and impractical TIF image files along with press releases full of absurd marketing speak and flowery, nonsensical hype that nobody cares about and nobody reads (ie something I increasingly have little patience for).  So what I am saying here is that it should be no wonder that GO will continue to get good exposure here and other websites and blogs as they not only make great watches but they know how to “present” them as well.

Tradition Meets Innovation

Set to debut at Baselworld 2010, the Breguet Tradition Fusee Tourbillon with Silicon Balance Spring (Ref 7047) represents the joining of traditional design with innovative materials.  Breguet’s “Tradition” collection is characterized by its very open, mechanical looking dial with a small sub-dial noting hours/minutes and of course a tourbillon.  It was just last year that Breguet introduced a new model in the anthracite color range, and the brand continues this year with the model you see below – 41mm platinum case, anthracite color, except now with silicon balance spring.  The movement is a Breguet Cal 569 – manual wind with 50 hrs power reserve.  More on this watch – and silicon balance springs – after the jump.

Montres Breguet has a long history of innovating with the balance spring, and in 2006 it introduced its first wristwatches with silicon balance springs and escapements.  As you may know, the balance spring is a very fine coil spring that is most often made of metal.  The balance spring is a vital and sometimes visible component of a mechanical watch, and I always enjoy watching  (with our without a loupe) a balance spring oscillate in perfect rhythm as it helps the watch to keep time.  The new thing about this “traditional” watch from Breguet is that it has a balance spring made of silicon.  Thus unlike a metal spring, the silicon balance spring is less vulnerable to the influences of gravity, heat and other external factors that could otherwise impede its crucial role.  As for magnetic fields, a silicon balance spring is pretty much  impervious.

Aside from all this talk about silicon balance springs, I think it is also noteworthy that this watch has a “fusee-and-chain” transmission system which is rarely seen in watches and usually only in those of the highest caliber.  It is a bit difficult to see in the photo.  Overall, this is not a watch for me – I find it a bit too edgy/atypical for a watch called “tradition”, not to mention that the price on this watch should be quite high – I would think at least $50k, but feel free to set me straight if you have any insight.

Already?  Yes, already.

While Baselworld 2010 is not officially “on” until March 18, what is on are the Baselworld pre-releases.  Yes, yes, SIHH and Geneva Time Exhibition just ended (did you miss our coverage?) but don’t blame me for this breakneck pace!  In fact in what I can best describe as a “steal their thunder” moment, it was no sooner than SIHH had started did the Baselworld “pre-releases” starting coming out.  I had to laugh because of the all too convenient timing of these pre-releases, but hey, it’s a competitive world out there, and I would be doing the same thing to if I had a brand to market.  It’s all about the share of mind, and any little thing a watch brand can do to distract from their competitor’s message in favor of their own, well….that translates into $$$ when it is all said and done.

So….you can expect to start seeing the Baselworld 2010 previews here on First In Watches starting now and continuing over the next couple months.  I, and perhaps some of my esteemed colleagues, will be bringing you new watches from famous (and hoping to be famous) brands in what is to be a small taste of what is to come the week of March 18, 2010.

Anyway, stay tuned – the good times will continue to roll here on First In Watches where we will bring you all the new 2010 releases from Baselworld just like we did for SIHH.  Come to think of it, I already shared a Baselworld 2010 pre-release with you way back in December – do you remember the Corum Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45?  If not then click through and have a look.