Seastar collection returns after 2-3 year absence…

It is now *official* that Tissot (a Swatch Group brand) is bringing back its Seastar line in 2010, starting with the Seastar 1000 you see below.  As best I can tell it was sometime in mid-2007 that the Seastar line was discontinued by Tissot, thus its return after just 3 years is certainly interesting!  This is what I would consider to be an “entry level” dive watch in the higher-end/luxury segment (but calling Tissot a luxury brand is perhaps too generous), and it is worth a look if you are a Tissot fan.  As noted on the dial, the new Seastar 1000 is water resistant to a respectable 1000 feet (300 meters) and is powered by an automatic movement.  Curiously, this watch seems to be lacking a couple key features common on functional dive watches including a luminous second hand and bezel (as was astutely pointed out by dive-watch blogger Roger Ruegger) – whether or not this will detract from its perceived value is to be seen.  I’m not sure what the price might be, but I will venture a guess that a price of $750 might be in the ballpark.

Given this is my first post about Tissot (if you don’t count this Danica Patrick shout out), I’d be curious to hear your feedback.  Are you interested in this brand and would you like me to cover it more?  Or do you prefer my primary focus on the higher-end/elite  independent watchmakers/watch brands?

65% Off A Panerai for Ferrari Gran Turismo Rattrapante Chronograph, Anyone?

The end of the fabled Panerai / Ferrari watch partnership was announced last week by watch industry omniscient Gregory Pons (Business Montres).  The announcement was also picked up one day later by my fellow watch blogger Ariel Adams over at Luxist (for those of you who prefer English).  In the Luxist article Adams also puts forth a sound thesis as to why the relationship was quite possibly doomed from day 1.  These insights appreciated, I think that there is yet one unanswered question.  That is, what will happen to the future value of these watches now that their status is officially “post-production”?  Will their value increase or decrease?  Will they one day – perhaps one year from now, perhaps ten – ultimately become items of great value?  Or dusty relics of another luxury marketing partnership gone south? I tend to think the latter is the case, and that these watches have seen their high watermark when it comes to the price.

Case in point: just today I happened upon a “small number of Panerai for Ferrari Gran Turismo Rattrapante Chronographs…available…for a very limited time at a very special price.”

FER 005, Brand New Never Worn, Offered at $4,995

In fact, at the offered price of $4,995, these watches – the bearing the FER 005 reference number – are fetching just under 35% of their original retail price.  Put another way, they are over 65% off.  This represents a significant discount to the current asking prices for these watches on the ‘Net grey market.  It is even way below what some individuals are asking for a used FER 005’s.  While this is most likely very unfortunate if you are a seller or holding inventory of these watches, it is for you as a buyer a chance to own a high quality Panerai watch with Ferrari logo at a phenomenal price.

If you are interested in the dealer who is offering Ferrari Gran Turismo Rattrapante Chronograph watches at 65% off retail, send me an email or ping me on Twitter and I’ll tell you.  And in case you wonder, I have no relationship or financial interest in helping to sell these watches, I merely use them to make my broader point…..

which is that the dissolution of the Panerai / Ferrari partnership and the unheard of liquidation sale for the FER005 is NOT merely a coincidence!  And although this is merely a sample size of one, I think it portends a very soft market for the Panerai Ferrari watches for many years to come.

What is your opinion on these watches and their future value?

New Brand, New Model – it tells the time, plain and simple…

The 4N-MVT01, by François Quentin

Limited edition of 16 in 18-carat white gold and 16 in platinum

Price: unknown

This is the first watch from a new brand known simply as “4N”.  4N – which stands for “4 numbers” and is a reference to the four digits on a digital counter which represents the tens of hours, hours, tens of minutes and minutes – was founded in 2009 by designer François Quentin.  François Quentin is perhaps best-known as a  co-founder of the avant-garde watch brand HAUTLENCE in 2004 (along with Renaud de Retz and Guillame Tetu), and as co-designer of the Tambour, the flagship model released by Louis Vuitton several years ago.

The idea behind 4N was/is to create a simple digital display and propose a mechanical alternative to analogue timepieces with moving hands, and I like what François Quentin came up with in this regard.    The model you see above is formally known as 4N-MVT01/D01/4². While this odd naming structure perhaps suits the tastes of its designer just fine, I think it is a rather unremarkable model name that will not leave a strong nor lasting impression in anyone’s mind.  Which is too bad, really, because the watch is actually quite interesting.

Quentin has purportedly tried to steer clear of “complex effects and has refrained from adding aesthetic and technical touches which might take away from the visibility of the hour display”.  However I must voice some disagreement with this notion because while the time is clearly displayed at the center of the dial, the dial in its entirety reflects and openworked effect and is actually somewhat visually distracting.  That is, distracting as compared to an alternative such as simply showing the time and hiding the rest behind the dial.  But lest I be accused of quibbling (which I probably am), I do admit that I like the watch as it is.  The time appears and is displayed in one way only, and while the whole assembly does reveal a pattern of scattered figures, the time is clearly displayed on a horizontal plane in the centre of the dial, in strong, bold lettering.

The movement is manual winding, with time display based on a clever configuration of discs rotating in discontinuous mode. Three discs sub-assemblies, made of aluminium or titanium alloys and held in carbon cage structures, are activated to reveal the time on a display which changes as each minute passes (4 discs for the hour, 5 for the minutes and 1 for the tens of minutes).  The mechanism uses a constant-force jump system which guarantees minimum energy consumption, regardless of the winding tension.  Note also the two crowns on the left side of the case which enable hours to be set independently of the minutees.  Lastly, I also find interesting the strap, which is mounted on the case by an automatic fastening system and its length can be adjusted as necessary. Unfortunately I do not know the dimensions of the case, hopefully it is not too big.

In summary,  I must stay that I find 4N’s first watch to be quite refreshing!  It reflects out-of-the-ordinary thinking for doing something very ordinary – telling the time.  I’ll give François Quentin two thumbs up!

A Big Bang for Legendary Argentinian Footballer Diego Maradona….don’t miss the highlight reel

While recently I’ve been somewhat tough on Hublot – first criticizing it’s new website (which drew comments from JC Biver himself) and then it’s too many flavors of Big Bang (criticisms which were answered indirectly by JC Biver in a separate interview), I’ve always and still am a fan of the brand.   If there is one thing Hublot does supremely well, it would be its athlete ambassadors.  For example, I love the Red Devil Bang II (Manchester United) and the Bode Bang (skier Bode Miller).  And even though he is not an ambassador, our sports watch writer even spotted world super star sprinter Usain Bolt wearing a Hublot!  So when I heard that now Diego Maradona is Hublot’s newest ambassador, I simply said “Good call JC Biver, good call.”

So what to be said about this new Big Bang except that it looks sweet and I like it.  I love the color scheme that says Argentina all the way.  With only 250 to be made, I wonder how many will go to Argentina which will likely go NUTS to get their hands on the Big Bang that bears Maradona likeness on the back and his #10 from on the front.

If you have any doubt as to the legendary status of this footballer, well, the highlights could go on for days, but I dug up a very nicely produced and relatively short compilation that you might enjoy (there are actually quite a lot of them on YouTube if you are looking to kill some time)

Machined titanium case shaped like an engine block…

Limited Edition of 150 pieces.  Titanium case (44mm x 35mm), Movement is Chopard’s manual wind L.U.C. 1TRM tourbillon (COSC-certified, 60 hour power reserve), power reserve indicator on dial, sapphire crystal front and back, Hand-sewn black alligator strap with matching titanium buckle.  Price?  Easily north of $50,000.

Chopard L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon

Up Close (Power reserve at top, Tourbillon on bottom)

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!

2010 TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster to include new TAG Heuer concept watch…

This is the new TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster on dispaly at the Geneva Motor Show.  The design was reportedly inspired by the new TAG Heuer concept watch which is to be revealed at Baselworld 2010 on March 18.  The car will also feature a TAG Heuer Meridiist mobile phone as well as a one-fifth second Heuer Limited Edition Stopwatch.  As for the car, well the Tesla Roadster is one sweet ride – what I instantly noticed about the TAG Heuer Tesla Roadster is the use of a green rearview mirror + green accents on the passenger side, and red rearview mirror + red accents on the driver side.  Most curious!

Cabin / Interior:

“TAG Heuer has a rich history and expertise with the world’s most prestigious racing teams — but this is the first ever partnership we’ve forged with an electric sports car company,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, President and CEO of TAG Heuer. “We believe that high-performance drivers are increasingly searching for products that are efficient, socially responsible and stylish. TAG Heuer and Tesla are two of the few companies arleady achieving these ideals today.”

“Engineers at both TAG Heuer and Tesla understand intuitively that technology — whether worn on your wrist or driven on the road — can help us live better while we tread more lightly on this planet,” said Tesla CEO Elon Musk.

TAG Heuer and Tesla plan to hold what will undoubtedly be a huge and celebrity filled launch part on March 18 during Baselworld 2010.

Special cradle/rest on the console for the TAG Heuer Meridiist phone

The special edition 1/5 second Heuer Stopwatch

An odd mix of modern and past day technology if there ever was one!

Even the speedometer is branded TAG Heuer!

Hat tip: Calibre11.

About Tesla Motors

Tesla is the world’s only automaker selling highway-capable electric vehicles. Tesla sells cars online and operates showrooms and galleries in London, Munich, Monaco, California’s Silicon Valley and Los Angeles, Colorado, New York, Seattle, Chicago and South Florida. Tesla has delivered more than 1,000 cars to customers in at least 21 countries worldwide.

The Tesla Roadster accelerates faster than nearly any car in its price class and is twice as energy efficient as leading hybrids. It is the only highway-capable electric vehicle for sale in Europe or North America. The Roadster does not need regular oil changes or exhaust system work. Roadsters have no spark plugs, pistons, hoses, belts or clutches to replace. Tesla recommends a standard service and diagnostic inspection once a year – and Tesla can perform this service at customers’ homes or offices.

TAG Heuer Introduces Lady’s Ceramic Bezel, Bracelet….Men’s watches next?

Below is a first look at some pics of the new TAG Heuer F1 Lady series watches with ceramic bezel and bracelet components that will be officially unveiled at Baselworld 2010.  This is TAG Heuer’s first foray into the use of ceramic in its bezels and bracelets and I expect this to generate a lot of enthusiasm from TAG Heuer fans and watch fans in general.  More importantly, it is all but certain that TAG Heuer will also soon introduce ceramic into its men’s watches as well.  TAG Heuer follows other popular brands such as Rado, Chanel, Rolex, and most recently Omega (check out the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquidmetal here) to integrate ceramic bezel and bracelet components.

This is to me a positive move by TAG Heuer in what is shaping up to be a crazy year of “highs” and “lows” for the brand (a beautiful Silverstone reissue, the Caliber 1887 movement snafu, a leaked then retracted Carrerra 1887 model, dealing with a tainted Ambassador named Tiger Woods here, here and here….and oh I can’t miss mentioning the absurd $360 “luxury” 8Gb flash memory thumb drive).

As for the watch, the only downside for me – and this is purely a matter of preference if this sort of thing matters to you – is that the F1 lady ceramic the watches will have quartz movements in them.  A far cry from, for example, the Audemars Piguet-base mechanical automatic movements as used in the Chanel J12 Series.  On the plus side, the price will actually be affordable.  And I do think that the watches look nice – very clean and sharp looking.  So all in all, I’ll give TAG Heuer a “thumbs up” on this one.

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!

Perpetuelle’s Authorized Dealer Interview Series Begins…

Perpetuelle.com Moderator James Bond recently had the pleasure of interviewing Mr. Jonathan Dorfman of Dorfman Jewelers, an elite watch and jewelery dealer located on the very prestigious “Newbury Street” in Boston, MA.  So why should you care to read this interview?  Well…

In keeping with the Dorfman philosophy of not wanting to be all things to all people and aiming for only the best, you will find just 2 prestigious brands of watches in the company’s Newbury Street store.  Which ones, you ask?  Well, I’ll let you discover this for yourself.  On the jewlery side, Dorfman only carries one brand – Van Cleef & Arpels.  In fact they have an official Van Cleef & Arpel salon in-store and as part of this they do sell the Van Cleef & Arpel watch line as well.

What struck me most about the interview, though, are the humble roots from which Dorfman was built.  Today, Jonathan and his brother Douglas Dorfman proudly lead a family-owned business that grew from their grandfather’s humble beginnings during the Great Depression through their parent’s prescient move to 24 Newbury Street in the 1970s.   Quite the American success story if you ask me!

Click here to discover and enjoy the full interview (it is actually fairly short – only 4 questions and responses) – I think you will enjoy it.

24 Newbury Street, Boston, MA

On another note, James and I would love to be able to turn this into a series (or mini-series) of interviews with various leading Authorized Dealers of fine luxury watches.  If you are interested in speaking with us, please drop me a line at kyle[at]perpetuelle.com.

Special forces watch -49mm titanium case, antimagnetic, “gun metal grey” PVD, 1,000m water resistant…

Tribute to the Italian 9th Reggimento d’Assalto Paracadutisti (9th Parachutist Assault Regiment)

This is the new “Col Moschin” Limited Edition watch from Oris.   In a testament to its worthiness, Oris had it field tested by the Col Moschin – perhaps the most elite unit of the Italian Army.  “Field tested” is perhaps an understatement given that the Col Moschin special forces wore the watch on jumps from 9,000 meters and on dives down to 40 meters, among other rugged uses.  Most striking about this watch is its size – the 49mm case is massive just like it looks.  But because the case is titanium, and it comes on a rubber strap, it is probably much lighter than you might think.  Also adding to its manly appeal is its thick, brush-finish bezel that looks very tough.  Lest you forget what country’s elite special forces this watch is inspired by, the power reserve is done in the Italian colors of red, white and green.  You may recall that Oris introduced a similar, actually slightly larger (51mm case), watch last year – the Oris ProDiver Chronograph (link here, scroll down about halfway), however I like this watch much better – it seems like a perfect Special Forces watch.  But I think it could do without all the etched text on the side of the case (close up below).

Oris Col Moschin

Limited edition of 2,000

The 9th Parachutist Assault Regiment Seal

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!

Watch Haute Couture – Tailor Made “Roller Guardian Time”…

The watch you see here is the “RGT Punk Rock” by Ladoire Genève.  It was first shown at the 2010 Geneva Time Exhibition and will be on display at Baselworld 2010.  Many of you will not “get” this watch.  And I don’t mean “get” as in purchase (although you won’t do this either), but as in understand or appreciate the watch.  This because it is unconventional in almost every way – from the case shape (“lazy lucky horseshoe” as I like to call it) to the crown location (8 o’clock) to the way it keeps time (“RGT” – more on this below) to the funky looking strap and more – this watch defies tradition.  Hey, I’m with you – I can’t say that I fully understand or appreciate the watch either, but maybe one day when I get my hands on one I will see the light.  The watch is part of an ultra-exclusive offering – only 3 will be made.  And 2 are already spoken for.  And each one is about $150,000.    So even if you do “get it”, you still probably can’t get it.  Get it?  Check it:

Hand-skeletonized dial, titanium case

Ladoire Genève is a new-to-the-scene (2007) elite watch brand that seems to take pride in the fact that it does not operate within the traditional paradigm of watchmaking.    For example some of the features of the watch I cited above are all very unconventional.  Also, Ladoire focuses on ultra-exclusive production and custom-made pieces utilizing its “RGT” time system.  RGT stands for “Roller Guardian Time” – the way it works is that the indication of hours, minutes, seconds are all made by revolving discs mounted on ceramic ball bearings.  I think this is one of those things you have to see in person to fully appreciate.

That the brand’s founder and namesake Lionel Ladoire does not adhere to the “traditional” in any aspect of his watches is very clear even on the Company’s website.   Ladoire’s vision is to “create a new dynamic in the watch industry:  the Haute Couture Watch Dynamic.”  Yea, that’s pretty cool if you ask me, and I have no problem referring his watches as “haute couture” – they seem to fit that bill quite nicely.  So if its “watchmaking haute couture” that suits your fancy and you’ve got the cash to back it up, you may want to put a Ladoire on your short list.

BASELWORLD 2010 is coming soon. You can see all the hot new pre-releases on Perpetuelle.com’s Official Baselworld 2010 Forum right now! And many many more when the event starts on March 18th. Just click here!