In watchmaking tradition, “regulator” watches were special pendulum clocks, used by watchmakers in their workshops to set the exact time and therefore to test the precision of smaller watches.  They were also used in science whenever extremely precise time indicators were needed, like in the field of astronomy or nautical navigation.  In addition to sitting on the watchmakers bench, regulator pendulum clocks of this sort also stood in the offices of harbormasters in all of the world’s major ports.

While this is new Montblanc Nautique Regulator is an interesting watch of this type, I find that there is unfortunately too much to interpret on the dial.  The Natique Regulator doesn’t have a regulator dial of the sort that’s frequently used on watches of this type, but instead there are eight different indications (home time, local time, day and night display, chronograph, 30-minute counter, small seconds, and combined power-reserve and winding-zone display).  Compared to what I would consider more traditional Regulators (e.g. Glashutte Original Regulator or the Milos Zetios Regulator), this watch seems as if it would be quite difficult to read at a glance — and thus use in the traditional sense.

This Montblanc Nautique Regulator is a limited edition set of just sixteen pieces – eight sets with red gold wristwatch chronographs and eight more with wristwatch chronographs in white gold cases.  Each set consists of a wristwatch chronograph with regulator dial and two time zones, along with a large navigational clock which, in addition to showing three time zones on its main regulator dial, also includes a world-time indicator.

If you are interested in learning more, there a full press release can be found here at HH Magazine.

I gave you the first look at Cartier’s new grand complication pocket watch almost a month ago.  And just because it looks so good, I’m back bringing you a few new angles and looks at this masterpiece.  In particular you can observe the fine finishing of this watch — the “V” shaped tread around the edge of the case, the solid white gold skeletonized Roman numerals, hand finished with carefully bevelled edges, the contrast of polished and brushed surfaces, and so on.  And don’t forget that the pocket watch includes an obsidian and rock crystal stand, along with a polished white gold chain and fob (also pictured below).

Cartier Pocket Watch  (Ref. 1556213)

59.2mm White Gold Case (Skeletonized), tourbillon, perpetual calendar, monopusher chronograph, 8-day power reserve

Calibre 9436 MC

obsidian and rock crystal stand

Readers of Perpetuelle know that I rarely cover the sub-$1,000 watch market, save for some interesting mechanicals or pieces that catch my eye.  This new Technomarine “Night Vision” piece from Technomarine caught my eye.   Speaking of Technomarine — wayback when, the brand was very considered fashionable and trendy, but that’s the problems with trends — they fade away.  This is more or less what happened to Technomarine.  But starting last year, the brand started to be reinvented and reinvigorated with a more sustainable product lineup (this started with Vincent Perriard and some other industry veterans — Perriard has since left the brand to start his own, more interesting venture HYT Watch).

Anyway, at Baselworld 2012 (March is right around the corner!) Technomarine will be showing off its new “Night Vision” watches.   I find the the Night Vision watch to have a cool look to it, worthy of wrists ranging from armchair watch enthusiasts to more higher-end watch buyers who want something fun to wear.  In addition to the green color set you see here, the watch will also come in white, blue, black and orange.

Technomarine “Night Vision” Watch

45mm steel case with black PVD coating, 200 meter water resistance, quartz movement, black silicone strap

VIDEO, courtesy Technomarine:

A Diamond Is Forever…

It is now official, the Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch, that is. To celebrate fifty years of James Bond films, OMEGA is releasing a special update of the incredibly popular Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond watch which has been worn by 007 in every adventure since GoldenEye.  The James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector’s Piece has been created in two sizes, 41 mm and 36 mm, and there are some particulars for each model — notably, the 41 mm version is being produced in a limited edition of 11’007 pieces and the 36.25 mm version in a limited edition of 3’007 pieces (a bit more reasonable for a “limited edition”).  As well, the 36mm case size has a diamond index at the 7 o’clock position.  Read on for more details and high resolution pics of the new James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch…

Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch (OFFICIAL)

41mm and 36.25mm stainless steel case options, OMEGA calibre 2507 self-winding movement (Co-axial, COSC), indexes are coated with white Super-LumiNova with a blue emission, date window at 3 o’clock, lacquered black dial features a 007 monogram

“50″ Years of 007

diamond index at 7 o’clock (36mm version only)

The Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch has a ceramic bezel with diving scales in matt chromium nitride with the number “50″ in red as a reminder that the watch is celebrating a very special anniversary.

The Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch has a screw-in case back stamped with a gun-barrel design. There is a “bullet” decoration fixed on the rotor that can be viewed through a central sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside. The watch also has a unidirectional rotating bezel.  A helium escape valve allows helium atoms to escape during decompression, particularly necessary for professional divers operating from diving bells. As its name suggests, the watch is water resistant up to 300 metres.

Don’t forget — in 2012, EON Productions will release Skyfall, the 23rd film in the franchise, with Daniel Craig in the role of James Bond

Left to right:  Bérénice Marlohe (Sévérine), Daniel Craig (James Bond 007), Naomie Harris (Eve)

New for 2012, Franck Muller unveils the new version of the “Giga Tourbillon”, a breathtaking timepiece that received widespread attention in 2011, most notably from yours truly (see the first Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon here).  Unlike last year’s tonneau-shaped case with black PVD treatment, this piece is in a round, white gold case — a much better look.  The watch is fitted with an enormous tourbillon — it measures 20 mm in diameter and the tourbillon cage is shaped into the letters “FM”.  The symmetrical skeletonization and finishing of the dial and movement (note the hand-chamfering i.e. beveled edges) completes the look by allowing for full visibility of the dial-side movement (yes, the movement has been reversed).  Speaking of which, the movement delivers a 10-day power reserve via four 16mm barrels (4 mm wider than traditional ones), and the hour-setting and winding section located on the case-back side and the hours hand positioned on top of the minutes hand.   A truly amazing piece!

Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon Round

49mm white gold case, hand-wound manufacture calibre (10-day power reserve, 4 barrells), fitted on black alligator strap

Reference : 7049 T G SQT

Well, well, well — looks like Omega will be releasing a “limited edition” Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch this year. For now the details are scant on this watch — credit to HODINKEE for scooping this release via an Omega dealer in the UK who looks to have gotten ahead of itself in posting the watch on its website (the watch has been taken down from the dealer’s site).  As you can see in the spy shots below, the Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary edition features a “007″ theme on dial with a red “50″ on the bezel (50th anniversary).  The coolest part of this watch is the back — you can see the signature “bullet in a gun barrel” view that is present in the opening sequence of every James Bond movie.  The bullet is further inscribed with “50 years of James Bond.”   Interestingly, as Hodinkee pointed out, 2012 marks the 50th anniversary of the James Bond film series — though fifty years ago Bond was not wearing an Omega at all.

Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch

“Limited edition” of 11,007 pieces

Editor note:  given such high production volume, I do not consider this a true limited edition piece — why not make 12,007 pieces in recognition of the year of production (2012) instead?

41mm steel case, automatic mechanical Omega’s caliber 2507 co-axial movement

Linear Power Reserve…

At SIHH 2012 in Geneva last week, the first wave of new watches for 2012 from many of the world’s leading watch brands were unveiled.  Even though the show is over, I still have several new and exciting watches to share with you, so of course the show here @Perpetuelle goes on!  Have a look at this neat new dive watch from JeanRichard, the Diverscope LPR.   This watch follows the first titanium version of the Diverscope which debuted in 2011.  So what’s interesting about this piece?  Well, as the name says, it is the “LPR” — as in linear power reserve.  Though such a feature is nothing new, JeanRichard has executed the power reserve display in a creative and subtle manner.  Basically, as the mainspring gains tension when the watch is wound, the power reserve meter rises inside the 12, from “E” to “F” (see below).   The water resistance is a respectable depth of 1,000 feet (300 metres).  As with all of their watches, the movement is “in-house”.

JeanRichard Diverscope LPR Dive Watch

43mm steel case (13.4mm thick, polished and satin-finished surfaces), automatic mechanical manufacture movement (caliber JR 1010), opaline black dial with luminous numerals and indexes, internal bi-directional rotating bezel, delivered with two straps — black Kevlar fabric and black rubber (pictured)

Here is a closer look at the “LPR” — linear power reserve:

IWC has dubbed 2012 the “Year of the High Flyers. ” Accordingly, we have seen several changes and additions to their Pilot’s collection, most prominently the the Miramar Top Gun watches (Big Pilot’s watch TOP GUN Miramar and Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar).  In addition, we see the release of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN, shown here.  IWC’s Perpetual Calendar is a perennial favorite amongst fans of the brand, and the TOP GUN models have been in the lineup since 2007, so this is a nice coming together of the two.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar TOP GUN combines the classic instrument look with the sport-inspired design of the TOP GUN line, and the timepiece features a wealth of complex technological features including perpetual calendar with four-digit year display together with date, day and month displays as well as a moon phase display.  All the displays are easily adjusted via the large onion crown.  Certainly this timepiece is one of the most complex pilot’s watches ever built, and I really like the look.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perptual Calendar “Top Gun” (Ref. 502902)

48mm ceramic case, titanium “onion” style crown, automatic mechanical IWC manufacture 51614 calibre, on black soft strap

You’ve seen the Annual Calendar, now here’s the new Perpetual Calendar from Cartier.  More precisely, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar in pink (Ref. W1556217) and white gold (Ref. W1556218).  This piece is a fairly traditional interpretation built around Cartier’s 9422 MC perpetual calendar movement.  I particularly like that the days of the week are indicated by a retrograde hand.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar

40.5mm pink or white gold case (13mm thick), automatic mechanical caliber 9422 MC, alligator strap

The new Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton Ref. 2020057 is not a new model, but it is the first time the skeletonized watch is executed in pink gold.  In pink gold, I find the the overall aesthetic of this watch to be quite powerful.  The Santos-Dumont skeleton model’s most prominent feature is that the movement of the watch is also the dial, with roman numerals sculpted right in!

Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton Red Gold

38.7mm x 47.4mm red gold case (9.4mm thick), manual wind Calibre 9614 MC

Cartier Calibre 9614 MC seen from the back