The HMS Ten, by Independent Watchmaker Romain Gauthier
by Kyle Stults on December 22, 2014

Romain Gautheir HMS Ten in platinum

The HMS Ten celebrates the 10th anniversary of independent watchmaker Romain Gautier.  Similar to, though more classical looking than the HMS collection, the HMS Ten and features off-center hours and minutes, small seconds, partially open dial, and a hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back.  The watch also keeps with Gauthier’s trademark ergonomic flat caseback crown.  The last watch I shared from independent watchmaker Romain Gauthier was the very impressive ‘Logical One’ back in 2013.  The HMS Ten is obviously not as complicated as the Logical One, but with its graceful arcs and circles defining the dial, it is worthy of a closer look.  HMS Ten is being made available in three limited editions of 10 pieces each, each in a 41mm x 12.1mm case:  platinum case/blue dial, white gold case/champagne dial and red gold case/anthracite dial.

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Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Carbon
by Adam Soshnick on December 18, 2014

linde werdelin oktopus moon carbon

The Linde Werdelin Oktopus Carbon Moon becomes the eighth reference in the active Oktopus Moon series.  It is distinguished by its layered carbon case, a first for the Oktopus series, and of course the superbly executed moonphase complication.  Though the enterprising and creative brand has ventured into the carbon arena before with its release of a hybrid forged carbon case in 2013 (you can see our hands-on report on the very cool Spidolite II Tech green & red here), this is a distinct carbon technology which delivers a much different effect, while retaining full Linde Werdelin DNA.  Let’s dig in with a closer look.

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SIHH 2015 preview…

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton angelview

Here’s another first look at a new piece coming in 2015 from Roger Dubuis.  The watch shares the bold design and finishing of the Excalibur collection, though this watch is interesting in that it has stepped down — way down — the complication scale.  Roger Dubuis Excalibur pieces are know not only for their skeletonized dials & movements, but also for their tourbillons.  This piece, as you can see, is a basic 2-handed timekeeper, nicely sized at 42mm, with a dial-side micro-rotor.  No tourbillon.   So essentially what we get here is the same delicious Excalibur aesthetic, in a much simpler watch (and, of course, at a lower price).   Which puts me ever so closer to owning one of these fine Roger Dubuis watches!

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton RD820SQ

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Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat (PAM 848)
by Kyle Stults on December 16, 2014

2015 first look…

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat PAM848

In 2014 it was the Year of the Horse.  In 2015, we get the goat.  The Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat (PAM 848), a 100 pc limited edition featuring a hunter case decorated with gold-inlaid hand-engraving, will continue Panerai’s tradition of releasing an annual engraved Sealand to commemorate each new Chinese Zodiac year.  The watch is the seventh of the exclusive series, which​ ​began in 2009 with the Special Edition created for the year of the Ox,​ ​followed by watches made in the year of the Tiger, the Rabbit, the​ ​Dragon (PAM 840) the Snake, and the Horse (PAM 847).

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat PAM848 hunter case detail

As I discussed in my Year of the Horse post, the motif on these Sealand watches are hand-engraved – then the grooves are inlaid with gold threads which are hammered, layer by layer, until the desired effect is achieved (see my Panerai Year of the Horse post for some photo illustration).

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat PAM848 hunter case sideview

The simple dial with date and small seconds remains very similar to prior iterations, although the cyclops date is gone, and the hunter case fastening system (below 6 o’clock) has been slightly changed to a “bar” clasp system this year vs. prior year constructions which utilized a “pin catch” system (look at prior year models and you can see what I am talking about).

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat PAM848 dial angleview

As I noted in my discussion of 2012’s Year of the Dragon, Panerai’s Sealand models are extremely exclusive.  From 2002 to 2005, Panerai made several Sealand models in partnership with bespoke gun and rifle maker Purdey featuring African big-game engravings on the hunter-case.  The engraving by Purdey on these 2002 – 2005 models is absolutely stunning, as you can see for yourself on Panerai’s website.

But all these engraved Sealand’s are amazing watches, highly collectible and little known to many watch enthusiasts, even Paneristi.  So even though it is a goat, you can add this one to the ‘highly collectible’ list.

Did You Know?

This is the first Sealand watch in Luminor 1950 case and also the first to have an in-house movement (the P.9000) rather than a Unitas.

Panerai Luminor 1950 Sealand Year of the Goat PAM848 P9000 caseback view